rich, dark wines gaining attention ... [Chicago Tribune]

[Mario Ferreira]

url: http://www.chicagotribune.com/features/ ... &cset=true

UNCORKED
A Portuguese adventure
Discover the rich, dark wines gaining attention from an ancient land

By Bill Daley
Tribune food and wine reporter
Published February 28, 2007

Portuguese sailors gained a reputation for adventure nearly 600 years ago when they set out to explore the world. Return the favor now by discovering their country's table wines, especially the reds.

Portugal's most famous wine is a fortified one, port. Americans also may recall, with varying degrees of affection, the Mateus and Lancers roses so popular in the 1970s (and still made) or they may enjoy the crisp light vinho verdes of today. But it is the reds that hold out considerable promise for years of enjoyment.

Winemaking in Portugal extends back to ancient times, and the Portuguese had an appellation system in place centuries before the French. Unfortunately, Portugal has long been overshadowed by other wine producers such as France, Italy, Germany and, now, Spain.

"Among European wine-producing nations, Portugal has been something of a paradox," wrote Richard Mayson in "The Oxford Companion to Wine." He noted that the country is known more for the corks produced there than for its wines.

After decades of isolation from the rest of the world, Portugal's wine industry began coming back in the 1990s, Mayson wrote, noting regions like the Dao and Alentejo "now boast some of the most modern winemaking facilities in Southern Europe."

Challenge for shoppers

Yet, buying Portuguese wines can be tough. Many Portuguese labels denote geographical regions rather than varietals. Some blends are labeled simply "vinho tinto," or red wine--that's the kind of generic info many American buyers find hard to swallow, especially at prices that can reach $40 or more.

"Most people don't really know what to expect," said Robert Owings, owner of Vintages in Arlington Heights. "Their only real experience with Portugal is vinho verde or port, so they are afraid the wine might be too light or too sweet. One taste will dispel all misgivings."

Most Portuguese reds are "dense with jammy fruit," he said, but are not spicy.

"I warn all my customers to give them plenty of time to open up," he said. "I typically open and decant them around lunchtime to serve them for dinner."

His favorites include the $15 Adriano Red from Ramos Pinto, the "same blend of reds that would go into port but made as a still red"; a $19 Terras de Belmonte from Abarbanel, the first kosher Portuguese wine made in 500 years; and a $25 bottle of 2000 Quinto do Crasto reserva from the Douro.

Gerhard Rohr, owner of Fine Wine Brokers Inc. in Lincoln Square, likes Portuguese wines because they are different.

"The focus is on indigenous varietals, so they're not another group of producers doing chardonnay or sauvignon blanc or so on," he said. "The wines are interesting, a little bit different in character and style."

Rohr said Portuguese reds, especially those from the Douro region, have a rich, dark expression. That's because dozens of different grape varietals are permitted in the region for the production of port, he said, although the better port producers usually use just a few varieties. In any case, when it comes to red, many Douro winemakers believe in blends.

Adding to the mix is the rise of young winemakers trained in the so-called international style of fruit-forward winemaking. They're experimenting with many things, Rohr said, fueled with "big-time money" from foreign investors.

While these winemakers may be shooting for top dollar, Rohr said they are also using top-notch technology that will translate into richer, fuller fruit.

Efrain Madrigal, wine director at Sam's Wines & Spirits, said there has been an "enormous influx" of Portuguese wines into the United States lately. He's delighted with the quality.

One of his top picks is a $6 red blend, J.P. Tinto.
"It's a terrific value; we've sold a ton of this wine," he said.

A neighborly boost

Madrigal said Portuguese wines are just starting to catch on thanks initially to interest in wine from Portugal's neighbor.

"Spain really opened the door for Iberian wine in general," he said. "It [Portuguese wine] is the last western European wine to be embraced [by Americans] except for Greek."

Buying Portuguese wines are "wine-savvy people reading the wine press," Madrigal said. They have a sense of adventure, he added, because Portuguese wines are different and distinctive.

"These wines are great with roasted meats like lamb or simple roasted poultry, like chicken," he said.

Tastes of the Douro

For this informal blind tasting of Portuguese wine, we focused on reds from the Douro, arguably Portugal's best-known wine region. The sampling of the 2003 vintage featured four wines ranging in price from $13 to $65. Although ranging wide in price, the wines scored relatively close together. And all scored very well; none received an aggregate score under 7 on Good Eating's 10-point scale. The wines were opened and decanted about three hours prior to the tasting.

2003 Jose Maria da Fonseca & Van Zeller Quinta Vale Dona Maria
A dark, almost mysterious wine made from a single vineyard in the Rio Torto Valley. Rich with the aroma of cooked plums and cedar, the wine's fruit is reined in by strong yet never overly assertive tannins. Expect notes of mint, cinnamon and spice, including plenty of pepper. Serve with braised beef and mushrooms, pork stew with clams.
(3 corkscrews) $42

2003 Quinta do Crasto - Touriga Nacional
Touriga Nacional is the primo wine grape in the Douro. Here, the grape makes a smooth, sophisticated wine rife with notes of pepper, leather and cherries. The nose is very much like a pinot noir. Serve with roasted salmon and wild mushrooms, rosemary-scented leg of lamb.
(3 corkscrews) $65

2003 Prats & Symington Chryseia
This Douro red has a subtle black cherry aroma and a flavor infused with smoke, cedar and even a touch of rubber. Fruit and tannins are balanced, although the finish can get a tad puckery. Serve with pot roast, rabbit in wine sauce, pork tenderloin with roasted peppers.
(3 corkscrews) $45

2003 Lavradores de Feitoria - Tres Bagos
The least expensive and lightest of these Douro reds. A tongue-tickling pepperiness gives way to cherry and earth flavors. Nice spice. Serve with roast chicken and garlic, grilled chicken pizza, bean and beef stew.
(3 corkscrews) $13

Sources: These wines may or may not be in stock at your local store; inquire first. At least one of these wines was found at these stores: Binny's Beverage Depot stores, Sam's Wines & Spirits, Treasure Island Foods, Howard's Wine Cellar. Prices may vary from store to store. Prices are rounded off.

(4 corkscrews) Excellent
(3 corkscrews) Very good
(2 corkscrews) Good
(1 corkscrew) Fair
(No corkscrews) Poor
----------

[email protected]

Bill Daley answers questions on wine, beer and spirits every Sunday in Q. Hear him on WBBM Newsradio 780 at 8:52 a.m., 11:52 a.m., 3:41 p.m., 6:21 p.m. and 10:22 p.m. Tuesdays and 7:52 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.

url: http://www.chicagotribune.com/features/ ... &cset=true[/size]