Updated tasting notes

[Steve Shapiro]

SRS MADEIRA TASTING NOTES (Updated 3/07)

Henriques & Henriques Grand Old Bual (c.1800). Dark. Cognac, spice, butterscotch/toffee and distinct hint of cherries. In mouth, excellent depth, perfect balance, with orange, nut, toffee, nutmeg, touch of cinnamon. Very elegant. Very long finish. 19.5 in 3/07.

Henriques & Henriques Reserva Malmsey (c.1800): Dried flowers, wood, spices. Endless finish. 20. 4/17/00

1826 Blandy Bual solera: Good, rich wine. Very good complexity. Long finish. 18.

1827 Quinta do Serrado Bual: Medium dark. Orange, some peaches, alcohol, cinnamon and sweet toffee nose. Similar taste with even more intensity. Perfect balance. Very long finish. 20. $265. 5/2/99. 19.5 in 10/06. Very complex, very long, not quite as harmonious as 1860 MWA Bual. Very dark. Orange peel, B & B, toffee, hazelnut nose with hint of baking spices. Very powerful in mouth, almost overwhelming the senses. Orange, nuts, caramel, toffee with tremendous depth. Endless finish. 20 in 3/07. Mannie Berk says this came in 3 lots. The best have 1827 painted on bottle in fanciful script, indicating the 1988 bottling.

1830 Quinta do Serrado Malvasia: Medium brown. Intense malvazia nose of nuts, toffee, cognac. Intense similar flavors, but not quite harmonious. Long finish. 18. $295. 4/10/99

1832 Acciaioly Terrantez: Soft, balanced with predominant citrus and orange peel nose. Not very intense. 15.5. $350. 5/1/99

1834 Barbeito Malvasia: Dark. Medicinal, tea and cinnamon nose. Medium sweet. Spices, cloves, nuts, slight burned sugar taste. Excellent balance. Long, somewhat woody finish. 17.5. $245. 5/2/99

1834 Barbeito Terrantez: Toffee and caramel flavors. Excellent acid. Long finish. 19. 4/17/00

1836 Acciaioly Malmsey: Dark. Alcohol, violet nose. Complex taste, but distinctly woody. Not enough fruit to cover the acid. 15.5. $450. 5/2/99

1837 Acciaioly Bual, Special Reserve, Medium Sweet: Violets, some caramel on nose. Similar flavors with huge complexity. Long finish. 19+. $265. 1/06.

1839 Acciaioly Verdelho: Intense nose of violets, but some off odors. Deep treacle, nut and citrus taste. Long finish. 17.5. 10/99

1845 Cossart Gordon Centennary Bual solera: Nicely balanced without depth for excellent. Good with food. 17. $190. 1/02, 2/03.

1846 Avery's Verdelho: Huge nose of violets, but unavoidable resin component. Drying out and alcoholic in mouth, with resin overwhelming the fruit. Short finish. 14. $350. 2/02

1850 D=Oliveira Verdelho: Very, very dark. Rich nose of coffee, nuts and tobacco. Very rich, complex flavors. Sweet for veldelho. Very high acid. 18. $395. 5/1/99; 19 on 4/17/00. 19.5 in 10/06.

1860 Blandy Bual: Wow. Dark brown. Huge orange, cognac, spicy nose with clear violets component. Similar mouthfilling flavors with intense violets vein plus chocolate and walnut tastes. High acid, multi-minute finish. Still young. 20. $150. 6/12/99; still 20, but now $500. 2/04. 20 in 10/06. Harmonious, no harsh edges, perfect.

1860 Cossart Gordon Sercial solera: Light yellow. Fruit and flower nose. Subtle taste, huge acidity. 15. 10/04. Similar note, but 17.5 in 1/07. Different score reflects scoring the wine as a sercial, rather than in the context of my favorite madeiras.

1862 H.M. Borges Terrantez: Nose pleasant, but not memorable. Good flavor intensity, but not very appealing. Medium length dry finish. What=s all the hype about? 16.5.

1862 D=Oliveira Sercial: Dark. Cognac, chocolate and cinnamon nose and flavors. Long finish with high acid. Great wine. 20. $400. 5/1/99

1863 Barbeito Bual: Medium dark. Orange peel nose. Less sweet than most Bual. Orange, grass, some nuts. High acid dominates finish. 17. $225. 5/2/99

1863 Berry Bros & Rudd Malmsey solera: Lighter in color and body than Blandy, but exquisite sweet nose and very long finish. 19+. 10/04

1863 Blandy Malmsey solera: Medium-dark. Deep toffee, nut and cognac nose. Rich with fruit, toffee and hazelnuts. Long finish. 19. 18.5 in 10/06. Still lovely, but far outclassed by 1880 Blandy Malmsey.

1863 Leacock Malmsey solera: Same as Blandy=s. 19.

1863 Miles Malmsey solera: Extremely dark. With little airing, lemon nose and tangy lemon flavor. After few days, has little nose, but big body with relatively simple flavors, nice finish. 16.5/17.

1864 Blandy Bual: Excellent, rich wine. Probably not opened enough in advance, limiting finish. 17, but many have deserved better score.

1864 Gran Cama de Lobos solera (Verdelho): Tangy, smoky, cognac nose. Very good depth and acid. Medium sweet. Missing a little depth for classic. 17.

1865 Cossart Gordon Bastardo: Bitter. 14.

1867 Lodge (veldelho or bual): Sweet, but relatively simple from extended demijohn aging rather than cask aging. 15.5. $265. 2/04.

1869 Badminton House Malmsey: Sensational; no flaws; big finish. 19 in 9/03.

1869 Blandy Boal: Nose of marzipan, ocean breeze, oil and herbs. In mouth excellent depth with nuts, caramel and herbs. Very long, deep finish and length. 19.5 in 1/07.

1870 Blandy Bastardo: Medium brown-gold with red tint. Typical bitter orange nose. Medium bodied, all things in medium balance. Citrusy and tropical fruit flavors. Verdelho sweetness. Clean finish. 17. $460. 6/12/99
1870 Blandy Terrantez: Medium dark with slightly yellow edge. Initial molasses nose evolving into tea and then orange peel and figs. Tea is predominany flavor, with apricots, wood and chocolate nuances. Excellent acid. Very long finish. 19 in 3/07.

c.1870 Henriques & Henriques Boal Velho: Cognac, orange and orange peel nose evolving to caramel, toffee and tea. Simial flavors plus coffee, cinnamon and more prominent orange peel. Moderately long finish. 18.5 in 1/07. (may have scored higher if not paired with 1869 Blandy Boal).

1870 Vinhos Donaldson Sercial: Terrific wine. Rich nose. Great complexity. Medium sweet. Long finish. 18.5.; 19+ in 9/03.

1872 Leacock Verdelho solera: Medium dark. Good nutty nose. Medium depth and complexity. Finish slightly short. 16.

1875 Barbeito Malvasia: Dark. Nose of dried cherries, cognac, hint of orange, cinnamon. Taste of cherries, smoke, lemon. Finish long, complex, lemon tinged. 18. $225. 5/2/99. 18.5. 1/06.

1875 Blandy Sercial (Averys): Dark, reddish color. Very sweet. Probably malmsey. 15.

1875 Cossart Gordon Bastardo: Light color and yellow edge. Huge mango/ papaya nose with dill, apricot and meat marinade overtones. Flavors same as nose, plus coffee. Good complexity. Moderately long, sweet finish without Bastardo bitterness. Terrfic bastardo, but not my kind of maderia. 17.5 in 3/07.

1875 D=Oliveira Malmsey: Molasses, caramel and nuts on nose. Big fruit. Long, nutty finish. Excellent malmsey. 18 in 9/03, 19 in 1/06. $375.

1875 D=Oliveira Moscatel: Dark black. Very sweet but funky nose, probably bottle stink. Very, very sweet, but simple. Acidity almost too low. 16.5. $400. 5/2/99

1879 Torre Bella Verdelho: Light. Nougart and hint of violets on nose. Simple wine. Low acid. 10. 5/1/99

1880 Blandy Verdelho solera: Nuts, caramel and good acid. Balanced with medium length finish. 17. 5/00. 18-. 1/03.

1880 D=Oliveira Terrantez: Very dark. Intense nose and flavors, but hard to identify. 17. $425. 5/1/99

1880 Blandy Malmsey: Orange, nut and cognac nose. Similar flavors plus dried fruits. Extremely long finish. Not huge, but exquisite. 19.5. $840. 2/04. 20 in 10/06.

1882 Blandy Verdelho: Medium dark. Slightly turbid (decanting problem). Great nose of cinnamon, allspice, honey and molasses. In mouth chocolate, toffee, mild spiciness, and borderline low acidity for the wine's richness. Long finish. 18.5 in 3/07. Mannie Berk guesses it was bottled in the 1950s.

1885 Barbeito Verdelho: Light- medium dark. Low intensity orange peel and cognac nose. Orange and cinnamon flavors with toasted almonds. Fairly simple. 15.5. $195. 5/1/99; 18 in 9/03.

1885 Barbeito Malvasia (Cama do Lobos/ Alfonso family): Medium dark color. Molasses and Provencal herbs, with distinct acetone and iodine notes. Medium sweet, with good complexity and moderately long finish. 17.5 in 3/07 (far outclassed by 1895 D'Olveira Malvasia). Provencal spice, butterscotch and vanilla nose, with prominent iodine component. Molasses, toffee and honey flavors,; good depth. Long finish. 19 in 1/07.

1885 Lomelino Verdelho: Light in color, off nose. Improved with time, but still unfair to judge. I suspect it needed a few more days or weeks of airing prior to tasting. 3/07.

1886 Barbeito Malvasia (Cama do Lobos/ Alfonso family): Big nose of nuts, coffee and orange peel. Coffee flavors predominate in mouth. Relatively short finish detracts. 18 in 1/07.

1890 D'Oliveira Verdelho: Very dark. Toffee, slightly herbal, molasses nose. Medium sweet, less than 1905. Figs, herbs. Good acidity and moderately long finish. Initially 17, but after 3 hours it filled out, became richer, and finish lengthened. 18.5 in 3/07. Bottled 1980s according to Mannie Berk.

1894 Henriques & Henriques Malmsey solera: Very dark. Toasty, burned nose. Flavors of chocolate, figs and spices. Moderately long finish. 17. $125. 5/00; 16 in 2/04.

1895 D=Oliveira Malvasia: Very dark. Alcohol and nutty nose. Rich, but finish short despite good acid. 15.5. $325. 5/2/99. Very dark. Molasses, figs, slight hazelnut, dried dates and apricots and orange peel on nose. Taste of dried fruits with citrus twist and excellent acid. Very sweet. Long finish. 19 in 3/07.

1897 MWA Malmsey: Medium dry; short finish. 15

1898 Barbeito Verdelho: Little nose. Nutty. Short finish. 15. 5/00. 16+. 1/03.

1898 Henriques & Henriques Bual solera: Dark, intense wine. Prunes, nuts and cinnamon. Distinct smokiness of many old H & H madeiras. Long finish. 18.5/19. 5/00, 1/05, 1/06

1899 Abudarham Terrantez: Deep orange brown. Huge caramel, toffee nose. Great depth of flavor with toffee, nuts, distinct hints of cloves and cinnamon. Long, sweet finish; perfect balancing acidity. Bual sweetness. Same wine as Cossart Gordon AAO-SM@. 19.5. $200. 6/12/99. Mannie Berk thinks this was belded with sweeter, richer wine, diluting out the bastardo character.

1900 Barbeito Malvasia: Very, very dark. But nose has paste, weeds, prunes and burned molasses. Very concentrated in mouth, but flavors don=t develop well. Dreid fruits and spices. Medium finish. 16. $265. 5/2/99

1900 Henriques & Henriques Malmsey solera: Very dark brown. Slightly burned nose with rich toffee, caramel and cognac nose. Very similar rich flavors with distinct smokiness. Long finish. 18.5. $125. 6/12/99. English bottling 16 in 4/01

1900 D=Oliveira Verdelho: Little nose. Figs in mouth. 16. 4/17/00

1900 D=Oliveira Malvasia: Figs, apricots in nose. Great caramel nose and taste plus toffee and fruit in mouth. Great, long finish. 19. 4/17/00, 4/01

1900 D=Oliveira Moscatel: Black. Roasted, Karo nose. Very sweet, but not complex. Excellent acidity. 16.5. $345. 5/2/99

1900 Leacock Moscatel: Very sweet, but dull. Good acid. 16.5. Probably same as D=Oliveira.

1901 Adegas do Torreao Malvasia: Only medium sweet. Toffee, coffee grounds nose. Violets taste. Good complexity, moderate length. High acid. Bigger wines overwhelm it. 16.5/17. $270. 4/00, 4/01

1901 Barbeito Malvasia: Sweet, caramel and rubbery nose and taste. Nice finish. 17. 4/17/00. 15 in 4/01, tasted with 1900-1901 malvasias. Nuts, toffee, cinnamon and allspice nose and flavors. Medium body. Nice finish and length. 17 in 2/07 (with 1901-1907 malvasias).

1903 Barbeito Sercial MBV: Clean. Nuts. Good acid. Long finish. 18+. $150. 1/06. Slight lemon peel and cognac nose, with pronounced butterscotch/ caramel and touch of anise. Fairly sweet, good complexity, good acid. Clean, tart finish. 18 in 3/07.

1903 D=Oliveira Bual: Cheesy nose. Great dried fruit and cognac flavors. Slightly chocolatey. Long finish. 18.5. 4/17/00; 2/04.

1905 Cossart Gordon Sercial: Good flavor, relatively sweet. Moderate finish. 16.5;17+ in 9/03.

1905 D=Oliveira Verdelho: Cognac, toffee nose. Prunes, fruit, dried fruit in mouth. Slightly short finish. 17.5. 4/17/00; 18 in 2/04,1/05; 18.5 in 1/06. Very dark. Burnt toffee and walnut nose with pleasant medicinal spiciness and touch of charred meat. Big body. Chocolate, cinnamon, touch of orange in mouth. Quite sweet. Long finish. 18.5 in 3/07. Mannie Berk says it was bottled in 1970s, recorked recently.

1905 Leacock Sercial: Nice flavor and good acidic finish. Not very complex. 16.

1905 Torre Bella Verdelho: Medium dark. Alcohol nose, then followed by intense violet smell plus all-spice and vanilla on nose and taste. Long, high acid finish with cloves. 16.5. 5/1/99

1906 Madeira Wine Association Malmsey: Rich with nuts and toffee flavors. Slightly short finish. 16.5. 5/00. Clove, violet, nuts and toffee on nose. Flavors add spices and good richness. 17.5 in 2/07 (with 1901-1907 malvasias).

1907 Barros Malvasia: Moldy. 10. 5/00. Odd, funky nose with partially blows off to show toasty and light toffee components. Light molasses and toffee flavors. Short finish. 13 in 2/07 (with 1901-1907 malvasias).

1907 Blandy Bual: Medium dark. Orange, cognac and nuts on nose. Young, intense flavors as in nose. Very long finish. 19.5. $295. 10/04

1907 D=Oliveira Malvasia: Intense molasses and nuts nose; rich dried fruit and molasses taste; long finish. 19. 1/05. Dark. Maple syrup, molasses and nuts on nose. Deep molasses and dried fruit flavors. Very long finish. 18.5 in 2/07 (with 1901-1907 malvasias).

1908 Cossart Gordon Bual: Medium prunes, nuts and cinnamon. Only moderate complexity. Medium length finish. 17. 5/00

1908 D=Oliveira Bual: Orange nose. Huge, rich taste. Long finish. 18.5. 4/17/00. Same as Cossart Gordon wine described above.

1910 Barbeito Bual: Odd, earthy. Subtle spices. 16. 4/17/00; 15.5 in 2/04.

1910 Barbeito Sercial: Leechy-nut nose. Sweet. Short finish. Dull. Simple. 12. $135. 5/1/99. On 4/17/00, B&B, cognac, wood nose. Sweet, but not complex. Nice, long finish. 17.

1910 D=Oliveira Sercial: Dark, but unremarkable. 15.

1911 Blandy Bual: Earthy with nose and flavors of nuts, cloves and chocolate. Nice finish. 17.5/18. 5/00

1912 D=Oliveira Verdelho: Terrific fruit nose. Very long fruity flavors with lengthy finish. 19.5. 10/04. Identical note plus cloves on nose, chocolate and molasses in mouth. 19.5 in 1/07.

1914 Barbeito Quinta da Piedade Malvasia: Not very sweet, but lovely wine with everything in balance. Long finish. 18. 2001

1915 LMR Bual: Medium dark. Off, ether nose and intense nuts, cinnamon and violets. Taste pleasant but not interesting. Long, clove finish. 16. 5/2/99

1916 Cossart Gordon Malmsey: Good, rich wine. Moderate depth and finish. 17. May have needed more airing.

1917 Barbeito Sercial: Wonderful cinnamon and anise nose. Candied pecans in mouth, with expected high acidity. Marked down for very short finish. 16 in 3/07.

1917 Blandy Verdehlo: Very dark. Huge, young, cinnamon nose. Deep similar flavors. Misses being perfect by slightly low acidity. 19. $270. 1/03, 1/06.

1920 Blandy Bual: Medium sweet. Fine depth and complexity. Long, lingering finish. 18.

1920 Cossart Gordon Bual: Apparently same as Blandy, but shorter and less rich. Assume storage difference. 16. 4/5/02.

1920 Cossart Gordon Malmsey: Dark. Rich flavor, but not overwhelming. Slightly short. 18. 11/99

1920 Favilla Vieira Bual: Cinnamon and caramel nose. Lovely, medium, balanced wine. Slightly short finish. 16. 4/17/00, 4/5/02

1920 Favilla Vieira Malvasia: Very dark. Nuts and dried fruits on nose and intensely in flavor. Great, rich wine. Excellent acid. Very long finish. 19/19.5. $195. 10/04

1920 Rutherford & Miles Bual: Same as Blandy. 18. 4/5/02

1922 D=Oliveira Bual: Very dark. Nose of oranges/ Sunkist orange soda. Rich, pruney taste. Very long finish. Just a little simple for great. 18.5 $160. 10/04. Very similar notes and 18.5 in 3/07.

1924 Blandy Malmsey Solera: 4 bottles, 3 undrinkable and 1 marginal.

1924 D=Oliveira Sercial: Nuts, cinnamon, molasses with coffee-tinged nose. Sweet. Peanut toffee in mouth. Excellent finish, but distinctly peanut taste. 18. 4/17/00

1927 Adegas do Torreao Bastardo: Not typical Bastardo, and all the better for it. Sercial sweetness, but fuller. Mango, prune, molasses, slight alcohol, cinnamon and cloves on nose. Dry. Good fruit. Short finish. Missing the usual ugly, bitter Bastardo finish. 17. $250. 1/02, 1/05. Retasted 3/07, the day after the D'Oliveira 1927 Bastardo. Confirms my impression that the wines are very similar, but this one lacks the bitter finish.

1927 Leacock Bastardo: Dark. Touch of acetone, which blows off. Slight coffee grounds. Strawberry more than tropical fruit nose. Molasses and tropical fruit flavors. Moderately long finish with mango, toffee and molasses. 18.5 in 3/07. Mannie Bark believes that this was blended with a sweeter, richer wine, diluting out the bastardo character and bitter finish.

1927 D'Oliveira Bastardo. Light color. Banana and coconut nose, sweet and fruity. Touch of cloves. Tropical fruit with nutmeg and cloves in mouth. Short finish, becoming progressively bitter with time. 16 becoming 14 becoming 12 in 3/07. This is same wine as Adegas do Torreao above, but bought and bottled later by D'Oliveira. Similar to the AdT, but with prominent bitter finish.

1929 Barbeito Verdelho: Very dark. Hazelnut, alcohol, nuts, orange/ lemon nose and flavors. Long, acidic finish. Rich. 18.5. $125. 10/04. Similar note in 1/07, plus nice cinnamon touch. 18.5.

1933 Broadbent Malvasia: Very dark. Little nose. Sweet. Stewed prunes. Short finish with low acid. 15. $180. Justino Henriques same wine. 5/2/99

1934 Henriques & Henriques Verdelho: Good depth in nose. Medium richness. Slightly short finish. 16. 11/93

1935 Borges Bual:

1937 D=Oliveira Sercial: Chocolate and cognac overtones. Odd, stinky nose. Very high acid, short finish. 16. $110. Will be better if nose stink blows off. 5/1/99

1939 Barbeito Verdelho: Cinnamon, fig, apricot nose. Narrow flavors; nuts with cognac edge. Short finish. 16-. 1/03

1940 H.M. Borges AB@ Reserve solera (Verdelho): Pale gold to slightly brown. Smokey and sweet hazelnut nose. Nut and honey flavors with enough acid for perfect balance. 17. $70. 6/12/99

1940 Broadbent Sercial: Hazelnut nose and flavor. Medium finish. Good acid. Farily light color. Excellent balance. Lighter style. 14. $200. 5/1/99

1940 Leacock Sercial: Dark, slightly red color. Caramel nose with aggres-sive nuttiness. Taste with flash of nutty sweetness followed by lemon, acid finish. Lovely Sercial. 17.5. $200. 6/12/99

1950 Barros Moscatel: Dark. Floral, pear nose. Sweet, muscat taste. Excellent acid. Nice finish. 18. $135. 5/2/99, 1/03

1952 Cossart Gordon Bual (1977 Royal Silver Jubilee): Good, rich wine with full finish. 17.

1954 Barbeito Malvasia: Unremarkable. 15.

1954 Blandy Bual:

1954 Leacock Terrantez: Intense orange, cantlope/ honeydew nose. Sweet, burned sugar taste. Very high acid. 15. $125. 5/1/99

1955 Barbeito Moscatel: Medium brown. Nutty and slight muscat nose. Medium sweet. No depth or complexity. Short finish. Marginal acidity. 14.5. $110. 6/12/99

1957 D=Oliveira Old Wine (Tinta Negra Mole): Medium brown. Medium bodied, sweet, mostly caramel flavor without great depth. Clean finish. Enough acidity. 16. $80. 6/12/99

1964 Blandy Malmsey: Reddish brown. Big dried fruit nose. Very sweet, moderate complexity. Nice finish with enough acid. 16.5.

1968 D=Oliveira Bual: Big wine, but quite closed. Perhaps 16.

1971 Blandy Bual. Rich toffee and coffee nose. Moderate depth. 17-.

1971 Miles Malmsey: Good, sweet wine with good acidity. Medium length finish. 15.5

1978 Barbeito Sercial: Light caramel and toffee nose and flavor; good acid. 16. 1/05, 2/06, 1/07.

Blandy Reserve Malmsey.

Broadbent Terrantez Old Reserve: Dull. 13.

Christopher=s Rare Old Verdelho: Pleasant. 14.

Cossart No. 26.

Cossart Gordon Malmsey 15 Years.

Leacock Sercial 10 Years.

Leacock Verdelho 10 Years.

Rare Wine Company Bual. Toffe, nuts and some complexity. 16.

Rare Wine Company Malmsey. Hazelnuts, toffee, perfect acidity, moderate length. 17+.

Rare Wine Company Sercial. Alcoholic nose. Simple, dull and short. 14.

[Reidar Andersen]

JUST GREAT READING !!! THANKS A LOT....... :!:

[Roy Hersh]

Steve,

It was great to meet you on Saturday for the tasting of Madeiras. Please do not post your notes on that tasting until the article comes out. Thanks!

BTW, very happy to have you here and if you stay, you will see something amazing happen to this Madeira Forum in late March. Actually, revolutionary!

Roy