For The Love Of Port

It's safe to say that every year producers plan to harvest grapes and hope for a good year. But what happens to the grapes in non vintage years? Are they made into LBV's, discarded or what? What happens if it's a years that some producers declares and some don't? If these grapes are just made into LBV's, are non vintage years the best years to buy them? Thanks

The grapes are taken and made into ruby Ports, tawny Port, LBVs etc... across all of the "special categories."

It is a rare thing when all houses declare the same vintage. It is much more likely that there will be differences of opinion or that certain Shippers will have better grapes in a specific year.

There are 3 main growing areas within the region, and 7 ratings for the vineyard sites within. So obtaining the quantity of quality grapes, is always the main determinant in being able to make Port good enough for a vintage declaration.

As long as a Shipper has enough quality juice they declare, despite what the competition is doing. That is in theory anyway. Politics and other factors do come into play to a lesser extent.

So from what you have tasted, are LBV'S better in a non declared year?

Steve,

Keep in mind that Vintage Porto constitutes a SMALL fraction -- even in a "vintage" year -- of the total Port wine produced by and for a major shipper, even those best known for their Vintage Ports (Dow, Fonseca, Graham's, Taylor, Warre's, etc.). Thus, in every year -- whether a vintage declaration is made or not -- the majority of grapes harvested are (pre-)destined for the production of the various Ruby and Tawny Portos in all their various incarnations.

That said, what consitutues the best qualities one seeks in a young wine when thinking of a Vintage Porto, and what consitutues the best qualities one seeks in a young wine when thinking of a Colheita (for example), are two different things. Some of the very best Colheitas I've ever had have come from years in which no (or very little) Vintage Porto was produced. Indeed, there are times when I have thought that some Colheitas made from famous vintages are made just to capitalize on the fame of the Vintage Porto from that year, and are thus priced accordingly -- whereas better Colheitas from "non-famous" years can be had for less money.

The same can be said of Douro table wines. What makes for a great year for Vintage Porto may not be the same as what constitutes a great year for vinho tinto do Douro.

But your specific question asks, "So from what you have tasted, are LBV'S better in a non declared year," and I would say "generally no." The characteristics of a great unfined, unfiltered LBV are quite similar to those that constitute a top-notch Vintage Porto. Think of the late Don Adams who, as Agent 86 Maxwell Smart, used to say, "Missed it by that much." Or, to shift analogies, think of a bull's eye and just missing the inner ring, but hitting the next one out. The best LBVs -- in my experience -- have come from "declared" years, or years which would have been "declared" were it not for ____________. (Whatever reason that may be.)

Finally, keep in mind that to every generalization, there are exceptions galore!

Cheers,
Jason

Thanks so much Jason.