For The Love Of Port

This seems to be one of the only Madeiras I see around town. Almost as if it is the obligatory variety of Madeira that every single liquor store must stock.

But is it any good?

It doesn't have any year or age designation. No varietal. Nothing. Just 'Duke of Clarence Madeira.'

Is it worth trying if I've never really tried Madeira before (aside from a single taste in a hotel bar)? Or will it ruin my perception forever? I have to admit, I know nothing about Madeira. If it is a good as port, I may end up doing something bad by trying it...

Thanks guys!

Todd

Hello,

Madeira wines that not have the varietal are usually made with "Tinta Negra Mole". This is the "poor cousin" grape they use to make cheap Madeiras. I think is deserves a try if you're in the mood. It will be good for the beginning of knowledge of these great wines



Best regards,

João Rico

Todd,

According to the Madeira Wine Company site, this is a 3-year old wine. The Duke of Clarence madeira is the sweetest in this range and would be the malvazia/malmsey equivalent. I haven't seen any in stores where I live.

Gary

Yes, it is the Malmsey equivalent. Remember the Duke of Clarence was the individual who was allowed to choose the manner of his execution because of his noble status. He choose to be drowned in a vat of Malmsey.

Madeira wines that not have the varietal are usually made with "Tinta Negra Mole". This is the "poor cousin" grape they use to make cheap Madeiras. I think is deserves a try if you're in the mood. It will be good for the beginning of knowledge of these great wines

I am here to protect the virtue of the NM grape!

Tinta Negra Mole or "soft black grape", which now can only be called, Negra Mole (as per IVM regulations) has been unfairly categorized by many journalists and authors and dare I say, mistakenly. There is no question that it is the most widely planted grape on the island and is somewhere close to 80% of all grapes harvested in Madeira.

However, the constant maligning of the Negra Mole grape is done with either malice but more likely, a lack of knowledge, as to the truth about this grape. According to Ricardo de Freitas, Managing Director of Barbeito, the Negra Mole is a descendant of the Pinot Noir grape. It has evolved though and today has the unique ability to emulate the four noble grapes of Madeira, (Sercial, Verdelho, Boal and Malvasia) especially when planted in close proximity to any of these. It is one of only two grapes used in Madeira production that are not white, the other being the extinct Bastardo (also occasionally used in the Douro for Port production).

So, although the Negra Mole might often wind up in the less expensive cuvees of the island, like Rainwater or 3 year old Madeiras, it has long been used as a complement for the noble grapes in small quantities for more upscale categories, but its name does not find its way onto the labels of finished product.

Few will come to the fore to defend the reputation of the Negra Mole grape, because over the course of history it has been misunderstood and used as a scape goat, even in some prominent writings on the subject. But the facts are known by the producers and although some use almost none of the NM, others consider it a requisite grape for their ongoing production.

Roy,
you are so right! Most producers just used to treat the TNM in a bad way and did not bring this grape to its full potential. That however has changed a lot. Today you can buy a lot of very good wines made from TNM and there are even Colheitas aound now.
The 10 YO sweet Reserva of Vinhos Justino Henriques won me over for TNM. A very complex and multi-layered wine with an interesting roasted coffee aroma.
From time to time you can find very old Tinta vintage wines at auction and I would really love to taste one of these. Should be interesting to find out how the TNM takes long term aging.
Best
Peter

As always, thanks for all the detailed replies folks. I have decided I will try one bottle of this Madeira, but will not judge Madeira solely by this bottle. I understand I have a long way to go in my "Madeira education" and will endeavour to do my homework as availability of funds and wines allow. :)

(Oh, and I'll let you all know how this bottle goes when it is purchased and drank. The label suggests it be chilled... basement-temperature chill good enough, or should I refrigerate it??)

Todd

Dear Todd,
pleeeease, no refrigeration, basement chill is good enough. And no ice in the Madeira
Peter

Peter Reutter wrote:Dear Todd,
pleeeease, no refrigeration, basement chill is good enough. And no ice in the Madeira
Peter

Sounds good - thanks Peter. Eventually I'll be able to check out your MWG site and learn ALL about Madeira... the day only has so many hours...

Todd

I did finally get around to trying the bottle that I purchased.

First impressions:
Dark, caramel/toffee colour, yellowish rim.
Deep aroma of raisins with a touch of brown sugar, espresso and figs. Sweet start, but sugars disappear very quickly.
Very smooth with well-integrated alcohol, just a slight touch of fire in the mid palate. Short, clipped finish that disappears quickly but leaves the mouth coated with a thick feeling - and a desire to sip more!

Having never tried Madeira before properly, I do get the impression that this is by no means a great example, but it is good and leaves me wanting to expand my Madeira experiences.

Todd

Peter Reutter wrote:Dear Todd,
And no ice in the Madeira
Peter

But my mom loves ice in her wines (I'm serious about that...drives me nuts, but as long as she's happy)

Andy,
I remember in one of the Broadbent books, that he told he story about an old fellow who drank his brilliant old Madeira wine with... soda . The story goes that he persuaded him to switch to something else to mix with his soda and the Madeira went to auction...
Best
Peter