TN redux: A great QPR Madeira worthy of a case buy!

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:50 am

This is a repeat from earlier in the year (upon request):

Broadbent Madeira Malmsey, 10 Years Old - I just checked winesearcher.com and found that this wine sells in one shop for $20 and then ranges between the upper-$20s to the mid-$30 neighborhood. That is a very attractive neighborhood indeed, for a Madeira that delivers this much drinking pleasure. Considering you can take one sip a night for a couple of months, this then becomes a great bargain of a dessert wine.

The color is beautiful to study if you are into such things. The basic wine on first glance is caramel colored. A more indepth look shows a slight hint of light ruby, just in the core with a well established yellow edge. The aromatics belie the age of this wine and it would be hard not to perceive that this is a Madeira with far more age to it's bones. The salinity of an ocean breeze is the first thing that comes forth on the nose. Beef bouillon cube also comes to mind along with roasted nuts and caramelized sugar.

What also strikes me deep in my palate's pleaure zone is the body of this wine. Many of the less expensive bottlings than Vintage Madeiras) of Madeira, from Rainwater to 15 Year Old by an assortment of producers, is the lack of richness and viscosity. I like a dense and unctuous Madeira and prefer that to a thin or light bodied style. But the essence is balance and that is the featured character of this wine. The round and refined mouthfeel here are highlighted by flavors of caramel, toffee, creme brulee and pralines. If that sounds sweet, yes, this wine is definitely that, but it has razor sharp acidity which maintains the harmony. In addition, the aftertaste is elegant, complex and persistent. 92 pts.

Editorial: This is an outstanding entry level experience for wine lovers that may want to see if investing in expensive Vintage Madeiras is for them. It delivers a great deal of old Madeira finesse, for a very reasonable price and could be kept in decanter for days, weeks or even months for occasional sipping pleasure.

Derek T. · Post by **Derek T.** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 2:21 pm

Roy,

My resolve has now cracked and I am about to embark on my first Madeira purchase so thought this would be a good place to start. I looked on wine-searcher.com and all of the hits on this wine are in the USA or Canada - is this shipped under a different name to Europe or is it just not available here?

Derek

Al B. · Post by **Al B.** » Fri Dec 23, 2005 12:17 am

Derek,

As far as I am aware, Bartholemew does not yet have a UK agent for his wines and is actively looking for one - a business opportunity if you want a change of career

I guess that unless and until he finds a UK agent, you would have to buy his wines from a US supplier and have them shipped to the UK

However, if you want an alternative, I do know of a specialist Madiera importer based in Polzeath in Cornwall who ship in some very fine wines. I don't have their contact details with me, but could dig them out when I get home tonight.

Alex

Derek T. · Post by **Derek T.** » Fri Dec 23, 2005 1:47 am

Alex,

Given that I have never actually tasted Madeira I think it's a bit too soon to be importing it or setting myself up as a Broadbent Agent.

Do you have any suggestions for a good entry level Madeira that is widely available in the UK?

If I get a taste for this stuff I'll take you up on the offer of a contact.

Derek

Bartholomew Broadbent · Wed Dec 28, 2005 9:42 am

Alas, we don't yet have a UK importer. We are passively looking. However, if you are willing to pay FedEx or DHL charges from the island, I could have them ship Madeira to you. You can contact me privately, if you are interested.

Derek T. · Post by **Derek T.** » Wed Dec 28, 2005 11:20 am

Bartholomew,

Wow - it never ceases to amaze me that since joining Roy's forum only 4 months ago as a complete novice I'm now rubbing shoulders over the internet with wine celebrities like yourself 8)

Thanks for the offer - if I develop a taste for Madeira I may take you up on it.

However, I would like to pick-up 2 or 3 different bottles in the UK first to see if Madeira is for my palate - can you suggest some good alternatives to your own wine?

Derek

simon Lisle · Post by **simon Lisle** » Wed Dec 28, 2005 2:50 pm

I must admit Roy I have tasted it and it's good but great for the price it commands

Bartholomew Broadbent · Wed Dec 28, 2005 10:01 pm

Thanks for both comments. All Madeira is good, basically, some are marginally better and some represent bargains. However, in trying to replicate a Broadbent 10 year Malmsey, go for any 10 year Malmsey and you'll get an idea of what they are like. Eventually, I hope you'll get one of ours to taste.

Al B. · Post by **Al B.** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 9:55 am

Bartholomew

I did a bit of research after you suggested that you would consider sending your wines to the UK if the purchaser was willing to pay the DHL / Fed Ex cost. I did a bit of research into this (as I did enjoy the Broadbent wines I tasted in October) but it looks like the cost would be prohibitive. From a brief look at DHL's website, it looks as though the cost to ship a single bottle would be in the region of GBP40-50.

Bit of a shame as I would have seriously considered trying to get some more of that delicious 1978 Terrantez that you were showing.

Alex

Bartholomew Broadbent · Thu Dec 29, 2005 8:42 pm

Did you check prices from Madeira or from San Francisco?

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 10:16 pm

Sorry, I see I am late to the game here and it is nice to have you chiming in the Forum again, my friend.

I am glad to see Bartholomew's last question. I can bet that it is FAR cheaper to have the wine shipped from the Island of Madeira, directly to the UK than from SF. The other variable is weight and the cost of shipping a bottle vs. a case or 10 cases, the price of which will continue to drop as the weight increases. Therefore, there is NO comparison for the cost of one bottle ... to what a per bottle cost would be on a multi-case shipment.

Alex, if you are serious, it might just make sense to make a bulk buy of 5 or 10 cases (do the research to find out where the economies of scale are in terms of price per case/bottle) and broker them to your buddies. I only buy this wine by the case and so does my brother and a few friends. It is my house Madeira. Not because Bartholomew is a good friend, but because the quality of this juice is quite excellent. Given the price, it is a no-brainer. I have blind tasted my Madeira loving friends in WA and NYC on this particular wine and all guessed 50-100+ year old Vintage Madeiras. Maybe part of that is because they know my cellar or expected such, but all I can tell you is that you guys need to find a bottle and try this stuff. My sales pitch is over.

Bartholomew, I appreciate your offering to personally take care of the FTLOP guys when it comes to your wines. You have my sincere thanks!

Al B. · Post by **Al B.** » Fri Dec 30, 2005 10:27 am

The DHL price that I found was the price they were quoting on their website for an Intra-Europe, 5 day air delivery for a 1.5kg package. I assumed that this would be the rate from Madeira.

Its always possible that I mis-read their price list as I have never used DHL privately. What I will do when I get back into the office on Tuesday next week is to have a look at our corporate rates.

Still, I can echo Roy's comments. The 1978 Terrantez was a delicious wine.

Alex

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 3:04 am

Actually, I have been talking about the Broadbent 10 year old Malmsey, not the '78 Terrantez, here.

pgwerner · Post by **pgwerner** » Tue Jan 10, 2006 10:35 pm

At the risk of striking a contrarian note - you actually recommend Broadbent above all other 10-year-old Malmsey's? I tried it back in 2000 and was less than impressed - it struck me as somehow "thin" and less than what a Malmsey should be. I haven't had that nor any other Broadbent Madeira since then. (This particular Madeira is rebottled 10-year old Justino Henriques, correct?) I'm really surprised its so well received - maybe I just got a bad batch?

10-year-old Malmsey is my regular Madeira, so I have some definite opinions on which ones I like. Henriques & Henriques is my favorite - slightly less sweet than most Malmseys and nicely complex, with distinct burnt caramel and scotchy notes. I haven't had Barbeito in a while, but I remember quite liking it - its sweeter than Henriques, but interesting and complex nevertheless. Blandy's is OK, very sweet (perhaps too sweet) and a bit simple as 10-year old Malmsey's go. I nevertheless end up having Blandy's quite often, as its the most easily available - its even at my local supermarket.

Apparently, Cossart-Gordon and Miles both make 10-year-old Malmseys as well, but I have yet to try these - I suspect that these aren't exported to the US.

Anyway, back to Broadbent 10-year Malmsey - definitely give it a try before investing in a case - your mileage may vary.

Peter

Bartholomew Broadbent · Wed Jan 11, 2006 12:31 am

Peter
You are correct to a degree. The Broadbent 10 year Malmsey Madeira bottles that were available in the US back in 2000 would have been from our first blend and it was unsatisfactory. It also, incidentally, received a so-so review in the Wine Spectator. The 5 year Reserve was as good, if not better, than the 10 year! That was back then.

We were unhappy with it, so we asked them to change the blend. This has been done and, since you last tasted it in 2000, you should try it again now. We are now happy with it as, it appears, are others. I'd love to know your opinion of the new wine.

As for the comment that this is a re-bottled Justino's, you are not correct. Yes, it is bottled by Justino's but, no, it was our own blend. We had them change the blend and they are using better wines for ours. Who knows if they now use our specifications for their own blend? I doubt it because we have a higher quality, more aged and, therefore, more expensive to produce wine. Their wine is less expensive, so why would they use their most expensive wine and sell it more cheaply when they can sell it to us at a price we are willing to pay?

Anyway, thanks for adding to this because your comments raised a valid point and I hope we have done enough to the wine to put it at the top, or close to the top, of your list.

pgwerner · Post by **pgwerner** » Wed Jan 11, 2006 1:34 am

Thanks for the input - if there's been changes for the better since 2000, then I'd be happy to give it another try.

Peter

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Wed Jan 11, 2006 1:40 am

Peter,

I can tell you that I have opened MANY bottles of this for folks blind and at dinners. Additionally, just recommending this juice to folks that I know appreciate excellent Madeira have reported back with their thanks for this wine that offers great value given the quality of what is now in the bottle.

I was at Justino's in November and they are very capable of making some fine Madeiras. I tasted their 10 year old and it is not the same juice as what goes into the Broadbent 10 year Malmsey. I agree with Bartholomew that you owe it to yourself to try it again.

"Thin" is not a descriptor you will use when trying it nowadays.

Post by **Roy Hersh** » Wed Jan 18, 2006 12:04 am

I brown bagged a bottle for a group of very serious wine enthusiasts in Atlanta, this past weekend. Most guesses were from the 1930s to 1950s and ALL guessed Vintage Madeira. Not bad for under $40.

Post by **Andy Velebil** » Wed Jan 18, 2006 11:56 pm

Roy,

Just a word of thanks for the great recommendation. I picked one up today and I just finished a glass. WOW! what a great Madeira. I will be sure to get more of this one. I can see why everyone likes it.

Thanks again.

pgwerner · Post by **pgwerner** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 11:42 pm

I finally came had a chance to pick up a bottle and gave it a second chance.

Wow! What a change from my first tasting in 2000! Amazing nose, excellent Malmsey (and even slightly muscaty) flavor, and a really nice bittersweet finish. Comparable to Barbeito 10 year-old Malmsey (from what I remember of the Barbeito - its been a few years), without Barbeito's high pricetag. In fact, this is about the least expensive 10-year-old Malmsey on the market now. I guess I'll be picking this one up regularly.

This one ties with Henriques for me - Broadbent and Henriques have two rather different and quite good approaches to Malmsey, so perhaps I'll have both bottles inhabit my wine cabinet from her on.

Peter