Symington's to phase out treading by humans

[Andy Velebil]

A very interesting article to read.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jh ... ort107.xml

[Al B.]

Andy beat me to the post by a few seconds, I had just copied and pasted the text (see below) with a header, so I've now deleted what was a duplicated thread and put my post as a reply to Andy's.

Alex

The article below was published in the Daily Telegraph in the UK today (Saturday). Although I the article imples that the Symingtons will be phasing out all foot treading, I wonder if that is really true or if this is just a slightly sensationalised story on a topic that we already know - that the Symingtons have developed some very effective robot treaders for their lagares in the Douro.

However, I would be very interested to know if anyone can find out a little more background to the story.

Thanks,

Alex


Centuries of port heritage ended by family firm
By Harry Wallop, Consumer Affairs Correspondent


Breaking with tradition: The Symington family, which has been making port since 1652, will no longer crush its grapes under foot

The world's oldest and largest port producer is finally trampling on 2,000 years of agricultural history.

The Symington family, which has been making port since 1652, has announced that it will no longer crush its grapes under foot.

Paul Symington, the managing director and 13th generation of the English family to run wineries in Portugal, said: "There is sadness. Of course there is. But it has been brought on by force of circumstances."

The expense of hiring 40 willing workers, prepared to spend four hours at a time, knee high in a vat of fermenting grape juice, has been a key factor in the family company going mechanical.

"You just can't get the people," Mr Symington said. "There has been large-scale emigration from this part of Portugal."

The change means centuries of heritage will be abandoned by some of the finest names in port, Dow's, Graham's and Warre's, all part of Symington Family Estates.

The tried and tested method of stepping into a vat - or lagar, as the Portuguese call it - and trampling up and down on the grapes to the sound of the drum, was adopted by the Romans in the Douro Valley.

While most of the wine industry started using machines to do the job at the start of the 20th century, the port makers never abandoned the technique.

They said it was the best way to ferment the grapes in as quick a time as possible. Speed is essential to capture the distinctive rich flavour of port, and the dark colour from the grape skins.

However, after experimenting for the past six or seven years, the Symingtons have designed what they call a robotic lagar.

The machine replicates the effect of 40 heavy men trampling up and down with two rows of heated "feet" made of silicone, which plunge into the stainless steel vat.

While the robots are an expensive investment, they can do the job at any time of the day or night - and don't need the encouragement of an accompanying musician.

The temperature controls also make the port far more stable, especially during hot harvest time.

So pleased are the Symingtons with the results of their project, which has cost more than £1 million, that they have decided to phase out foot-crushing.

[Shawn Denkler]

For those of us that have tread in the lagars, it was a fun experience, and I would do it again. But I'm sure it is hard to get workers. When I did it and when I have seen it done; it has been young people or much older people. People from their 20's to their 50's have better jobs and better pay.

All over the world people are leaving the country and moving to urban areas. The Douro is remote and temporary harvest workers must be harder to find every year.

[Frederick Blais]

I don't remember the exact amount but during my visits to Quinta they told me that the workers during the harvest were really well paid. They could earn in one month of harvest what they would in 2-3 months of regular jobs. They also give generous bonus for those harvesting during the day and threading at night.

I did taste some samples from robotic and feet crushing side by side at the Graham's lodge and I will say again.... Robotic sample was not very good unfortunately. It was from the 2004 Vintage of Malvedos.

Anyone knows if Vesuvio gonna still remains 100% traditionnal crushing?

[Julian D. A. Wiseman]

If I were in charge of Symingtons, I would keep the musician. A cheap piece of history that they will remain pleased to have retained.

[Chris G]

I have been lucky to visit a few of the Quinta's with Roy and have seen the robotic lagars at Warre and the traditional treading at Vesuvio, indeed have actually thanks to the kindness of the Symington's and Roy's organisation skils actually tried this.

I cannot help feeling very sad about this, to me foot treading is one of the things that makes the best vintage port different, I am perhaps too traditional. I would of personally preferred it if they had kept to foot treading for the very best Quintas and particularly the parts of the estate that they think would make the best vintage port, this raises a question as to whether growers can actually know which parts of an estate make the best port consistently and can thus seperate them out at the treading satge - i suspect not.

I am a big fan of Vesuvio and would be particularly upset if this moved from foot treading. Would it not be possible to still do some of this estate the traditional way? I think there is something very special about this estate and the Symingtons have put a huge investment into this both in the vineyards and in the marketing to create a premium port brand from scratch, can't they make an exception for this brand?

[Chris G]

Good News!!!

The Telegraph has today published a correction to the article from last week. It seems that " The family intends to maintain the old method at two of the properties in Portugal" Sadly the Telegraph while happy to make this clear does'nt say which ones they are!
Surely one of them must be Vesuvio and the other not sure. Will try and find out.

[Andy Velebil]

That is very good news. I would assume that one is Vesuvio.

Maybe Roy can shoot an email to one of the Symingtons and we can get a straight answer.

CALLING ROY

[Scott Anaya]

hmmmm, shortage of workers? I bet they could get 10 folks from this site in axchange for airfare, lodging, and payment in cases of VP!!!!!!

[Andy Velebil]

scott, i'd be in for that, until you see what they get paid...it ain't much

[Jason Brandt Lewis]

I treasure the memories of my time in the lagares . . . the treading . . . the dancing . . . the music . . . .

And it finally explained to me the raison d'être of Brandy Croft!