August 2007 Virtual Tasting: 20 year old Tawny

[Andy Velebil]

Ok so I'm a day early, but as the old saying goes, "The early bird gets the worm."

Krohn 20 year old tawny (B.2006)

The color is still rather dark brown with red highlights. Hazelnuts, brown sugar and molasses on the nose. The palate is rather simple and lacking much in the way of complexity. A big dose of acid and some noticable tannins on the finish. This wine shows notes of dried figs, baked walnuts, toffee, and some herbs. Unfortunitly there is a bit of alcohol on the finish that just is totally out of balance with the rest of this wine, marring what could have been a decent 20 year tawny. The finish is medium but also simple and boring. 85 points.

As a footnote, I actually opened this last night after a dinner with some friends at my house. I had a small glass and ended up not serving it as I thought it was out of balance then. I figured maybe some air might help...guess I was wrong

[Todd Pettinger]

Andy - one day early... unacceptable. Your penance will have to be the following:
a TN on another 20 yo Tawny. I know you shouldn't have a problem with this!

Todd

[Roy Hersh]

Actually, I'd have to agree with Todd. July tasting of 20 year old Tawny does not count. So break out something worthy this time.

[Frederick Blais]

Dow's 20 yr old tawny :

First time I taste this Port. Amber tawny color with a slight hint of ruby. The nose is opening nicely on orange peal liquor, toffey and dried figs flavours. On the palate, not too sweet, the acidity is sharp, nice smooth mid palate on orange peal liquor, grilled nuts, dried fruits and a long finale on caramel and that orange liquor flavours that is really dominant and enjoyable in this port. I'd say that it has the Dow's style having this dryer style and showing some tannins even on the finale. 16.5/20 Might get better with time, the nose could be fuller for this quality of port.

[Scott Anaya]

Okay, I cheated too and drank a Sandeman 20 yr on Tuesday July 31st. BUT I had a budding port enthusiast and another friend over for dinner, so it was fun to do a group tasting.

Color is a light rusty brown. With the smooth toffee and honey roasted nut nose, we were really looking forward to the first swig....I mean sip!

Wow, what a smooth and very classy-if not slightly understated 20 yr tawny port. Everything in really nice balance and all the things I love about a tawny showing so nicely-butterscotch, toffee, and lightly toasted mixed nuts. The finish was not quite as long as I was expecting, although at a good 30 seconds it lasted long enough. 92 pts.

I traded for this bottle with a 20 yr Taylor since I had been drinking thru 8 bottles of Taylor purchased for a song at auction. For my tastes, I have to say the Sandeman 20 beats Taylor 20. This was my first time with this wine and I will definetly be drinking more of this!

[Frederick Blais]

Scott, 30 secs finish is quite exceptionnal. One thing you have to remember when evaluating this component, you need to evaluate how long the flavours do last on your palate and not the structural components, like acidity that last for ages with madeira for exemple. IMO, over 10 secs flavours lasting is what makes a great wine, but that's another debate.

Glad you liked the sandeman, its my favourite 20 yo but so hard to get in Québec

[Andy Velebil]

Actually, I'd have to agree with Todd. July tasting of 20 year old Tawny does not count. So break out something worthy this time.

Andy - one day early... unacceptable. Your penance will have to be the following:
a TN on another 20 yo Tawny. I know you shouldn't have a problem with this! Laughing Cool

Todd

Ok, Ok, twist my arm you guys

[Andy Velebil]

Scott,
I agree about the Sandeman 20 year. I've had this a ton of times and its a great QPR 20 year (ok, it helps that they serve it by the glass as Disneyland's California Adventure theme park where I have a yearly pass to).

[Todd Pettinger]

Okay, I cheated too and drank a Sandeman 20 yr on Tuesday July 31st. BUT I had a budding port enthusiast and another friend over for dinner, so it was fun to do a group tasting.

Scott, it is worthy of indulging a day early to be sharing with a budding port enthusiast, but I am afraid that I have a code of conduct that must be followed in cases like this, therefore to preserve consistency (hey, I ref hockey - I HAVE to be consistent!!!) I must sentence you to open up another bottle of 20 YOT (get your friend to pick it out and bring it over and you can post his TN live - if this is the same friend who refuses to join on a regular basis!)

Todd

[Scott Anaya]

Man, tough crowd. Heheheee Now I'm under orders to open yet another 20 yr Somehow I don't feel too taxed by this penalty call

Frederick et al.,

I see what you are saying regarding the components versus the flavors. Not knowing the chemistry and biology behind taste, and throwing a total guess out here--wouldn't lingering acidity (a component) carry arround your mouth the accompanying wines "tastes" to some degree? My theory is that they kind of go hand in hand? I'm totally guessing the same with a lingering mouth puckering tannin that cause you to smack the back of your tongue to the roof of your mouth 20 seconds later, thus causing you to realize the lingering finish "tastes" too? I'd love to hear yours and others thoughts on this.

Also IM(humble)O for a 20 yr tawny or similar:
0-15 second finish is okay
15-30 second finish is good
30-45 second finish is great
45-60 second is exceptional
60+ second finish is truly classic

Maybe my standards and expectations are too high? I guess the above scale would also slide as I wouldn't really expect a basic value tawny to prodcue a minute long finish--but it might still rank really high in its category?

[Todd Pettinger]

Warre's Otima 20 Year Tawny – NV

500 mL clear bottle. Light mahogany/orange-tawny colour, with some lighter ruby red components.

Fabulous nose of strong butterscotch, caramel with very little apparent alcohol. Definite notes of orange rind, and a hint of vanilla. A sweeter, more syrupy nose to be sure. The palate holds true to this promise of both vanilla, which is more clearly defined in the mouth than on the nose, and the orange peel. Balanced acidity and the alcohol is very nicely integrated on this port. There seems to be a complexity with the Otima 20 that is not evident with it’s baby brother, the 10 year. I can definitely see why those that have had the Otima 20 have declared it is worth almost double the price of the 10.

I have previously had the 10 yr and 20 yr go head to head… TN here. I definitely prefer the 20 yr to the 10 yr. I am going to try this bottle of Otima 20 against another couple of 20 yr Tawnys if I can this month as I’d like to see how this compares side by side with other 20 yr olds.

Todd

[Roy Hersh]

I will post my TN, but am waiting to read Andy's first.

[Alex R]

Noval 20yrs. tawny

Very light brown color, a strong nose of figs and a touch of alcohol, with a walnuts and caramel and orange combination taste, extremely rich and a very satisfying finish. One of my favorite 20 yrs. Tawny

[Andy Velebil]

I will post my TN, but am waiting to read Andy's first.

Alex R. and a couple others came by the house the other day for some pizza, port, madeira and Cuban cigars. One was the 20 year Fonseca. When I get more time in a couple days I'll post about them...unless Alex wants to start things out. Last night was a crazy wine offline where a 1955 Averys special reserve Port was opened...more on that later.

[Roy Hersh]

20 year old Tawny Port by Sandeman - Ahhhh, it has been nearly a half year since I have enjoyed this bottling. Always one of my top picks for 20 yo Tawny Ports. Finely tuned with enough acidity to keep this quite fresh and it provided the nerve for the excellent balance. Nutty and with a fun nougat nuance that warms the palate along with a gentle hint of orange liqueur. I love the sexy mouthfeel of this Sandeman but the finish is the standout dynamic for me. Impressive and a well-priced 20 year old that should be in the top tier for the genre. I kept going back and forth betwen 93 & 94 points, but as this put on weight by the 3rd day, it deserved the full 94 points.

[Jane R]

Tasted: Delaforce Curious and Ancient 20-yr-old Tawny, bottled 2006. On sale for $29.99 from $35.99 at the local Portuguese liquor store. How bad could it be? I thought. Well, as my father always said, you get what you pay for.

This was a strange example of a tawny. I disliked it so much when first opening it that I thought, I'll use it for cooking. The best thing about it was its color: tawny-apricot on pouring, a deep chestnut with red-orange center in the glass. It was very closed on the nose; I almost drowned trying to get a whiff of...anything. A tiny hint of bitter orange, but most of all, it was astringent, like a sharp brandy. And on tasting it: sherry-like, with a brandy edge--maybe a fruity brandy, but the overall impression was alcoholic. Not good. Wondered if there was something wrong with it.

But then I tried it again several days later--and lo and behold, it's transformed a bit (don't understand how): softer and smoother, with a nice impression of vanilla and, though subtle, some true port character that was missing on opening. Not at all complex, minimal finish, but drinkable. That's the best I can say.Back to the Taylor for me.

I can't even begin to score it--it's so far outside the genre.

[Frederick Blais]

Jane, from your comments, it looks like this bottle suffured from heat. I never had this 20yo tawny but it is a serious producer, I would not expect it to make such a poorly enjoyable port.

Port does change over time once it is opened. Normally, with tawny, the acidity is less present, sugar impression then takes more place, nutty and caramel flavors are emerging too.

As Roy comments, Sandemand is one of the top(my favourite) 20yo tawny, you should try to find one, you will not miss the Taylor

[Jane R]

Frederick, thanks for the explanation. I knew it shouldn't change--maybe it just faded to a less offensive level. I think you are right that it must have suffered some sort of damage. I will definitely pick up the Sandeman.

[Todd Pettinger]

It was very closed on the nose; I almost drowned trying to get a whiff of...anything. A tiny hint of bitter orange, but most of all, it was astringent, like a sharp brandy. And on tasting it: sherry-like, with a brandy edge--maybe a fruity brandy, but the overall impression was alcoholic. Not good. Wondered if there was something wrong with it.

Jane, I recently tried the Delaforce 10 Yr Tawny (Hos Emminence's Choice) and found a similar thing in that wine with the Brandy. My TN follows:

Delaforce His Emminence’s Choice 10 Year Old Tawny [NV – No Vintage]

For the first time ever in recollection I believe I can taste the brandy that was used to stop the fermentation process. I taste distinct notes of oak and that excessive alcohol burn that I only associated with the higher alcohol (40% and up) brandies and whiskies. I would be extremely interested in learning what they used as an aguardente as there is a distinct after-taste of this.

Aside from that, a smooth, much more dry than many, Tawny that has less of the excessive brown sugar and crème brulee that I am accustomed to tasting in the majority of the aged tawnies. Slightly nutty, I would guess this would go down very well with some Sharp (Aged) Cheddar and walnuts, although I am saddened that I have neither at hand at the moment. I will have to pick some up and try this before the bottle is empty.

For those of you who like the dryer style of ports, with less sweetness, His Eminence's Choice may be a good choice for you if you have not tried it yet. I actually am discovering that I swing to the sweet side, but will definitely buy this again for a "horizontal" of sorts with all 10 Year Aged Tawnies I am trying to organize.

Unlike Fred, I would suggest that based upon your TN and mine, that unless two different bottles (one shipped all the way overseas to Canada) showed similar traits, I would suspect that this is more the house style of Delaforce's Tawny offerings.

I will try the 10 again (it is available here) but have not yet seen the 20 year offered locally, so I'm not sure I can ever look forward to trying that.

Todd

[Roy Hersh]

Hey am I dreaming or is this the first TN by a woman on the FTLOP site?

If so, I bow down in humble thanks for your having doing so!

WOMEN & PORT ...

I like the ring to it.

Maybe it will be the title of my first Port book.