August 2007 Virtual Tasting: 20 year old Tawny

[Jane R]

Delaforce His Emminence’s Choice 10 Year Old Tawny [NV – No Vintage]

For the first time ever in recollection I believe I can taste the brandy that was used to stop the fermentation process. I taste distinct notes of oak and that excessive alcohol burn that I only associated with the higher alcohol (40% and up) brandies and whiskies. I would be extremely interested in learning what they used as an aguardente as there is a distinct after-taste of this.

Aside from that, a smooth, much more dry than many, Tawny that has less of the excessive brown sugar and crème brulee that I am accustomed to tasting in the majority of the aged tawnies.

Todd, this is very interesting. And "dry" is precisely what I meant by sherry-like--sort of between a manzanilla and an amontillado, with little of the sweetness of port. It may be the style, but I was so surprised by my tasting of this bottle that I looked online for other tasting notes and those few I found were within typical tawny parameters, no mention of being alcoholic. So I just don't know, but you and I definitely had similar takes on the Delaforce tawnies.[/quote]

[Jane R]

I confess that with the hockey references it feels a little bit like entering the locker room...But somebody has to do it.

[Todd Pettinger]

I admit I had the Otima both in July and a 2nd bottle in August, so while the earlier TN is still valid, for consistency, I will sentence myself to another 20 year old tawny...
Fonseca Twenty Year Old Tawny – NV

Upon opening, there is so much red colour in this port that I had to check to be sure I had actually bought the 20 and not the 10 yr. Light ruby red, with tawny orange only evident at the edges as you tip the glass towards the light.

Initially almost nothing on the nose. I had to strain to bring fourth any aromas at all, and decided that this Tawny would receive the decanter treatment for it’s cheekiness. Typically I do not decanter Aged Tawny, despite reading, particularly from some folks here whose opinions I respect very much, that every port should be decanted, from the ‘lowly’ Ruby to the highest end VP. We’ll see if that makes a difference in the aromatics.

Tried a small glass straight out of the bottle. There is a small bite of acidity present, weak flavours of oak and vanilla. Very little of anything else. This may need some time before anything at all shows up. Fortunately, I’m patient!

[Michael C.]

Tried a small glass straight out of the bottle. There is a small bite of acidity present, weak flavours of oak and vanilla. Very little of anything else. This may need some time before anything at all shows up. Fortunately, I’m patient!

I'm anxious to see how this develops for you, Todd. This is one of my favorites. The tasting notes I recorded last time I opened a bottle (February '07) echoed some of your concerns about the nose, but diverged from that point. I noted a long, nutty finish, with hints of dried cherries and cinnamon. I also don't recall the color being as red as you describe ... I suppose that's a good reason to actually make note of the color in tasting notes. Since we're only halfway through August, I may have to open a bottle and revisit these notes...

[Todd Pettinger]

Been super busy, working over the weekend to make sure a major project is completed prior to taking off on nearly 2 weeks of vacation... haven't had much time to visit the forum, but at least got my tastings in...

+1 day
The nose appears to have opened up with a day of air, allowing some nice wood smells through. Still not as many tawny characteristics as expected, no butterscotch or caramel, very little brown sugar notes or even orange as I experience in many others, particularly 20 yr tawnies. A touch of acidity and alcohol on the mid-palate, the alcohol disappears in the finish. Seems to be a touch more mellow than yesterday.

+3 days
Slight colour evolution to more of the brown that one would expect from a 20 year. While the wine is very mellow, it still displays a bit of alcohol that detracts from the overall enjoyment. Less sweet than the typical tawny, this seems to have evolved from what would have been initially a bit more of a dry port. Mellow on the finish, with some heat in the mid-palate, it is a good 20 year tawny, but not a great one.

While I would buy it again for a “horizontal” tasting of 10 and 20 year ports, I am not sure that this port will ever find a home in my stable of aged tawnies that I buy on a consistent basis.

[Todd Pettinger]

+4 days
I have to say that I believe that this is the best showing of this port. It has taken 4 days, but it is finally displaying as I believed it should. This is a curious example of a 20 year old tanwy… It has none of the characteristics that I find so appealing in a typical 20 year old tawny. I want to dislike it because if this, but find myself oddly drawn back to the wine, perhaps because it does not show the same as other 20 year tawnies.

It has, curiously, not evolved nearly as much as I believed it would have, it has some strength in the mid- and back-palate, strong vanilla, balanced acidity, and a balanced sweetness that leaves a good, solid Aged Tawny. Some raisins are now detectable on the nose, though are not dominating as in other aged tawnies. Strangely enough the dominating flavour is “liquid Graham Crackers.” This has to be a first.

[Michael C.]

Strangely enough the dominating flavour is “liquid Graham Crackers.” This has to be a first.

That is one strange bottle of tawny you picked up, Todd. Liquid Graham Crackers? It's a good thing port goes so well with chocolate ... you've got the ability to make yourself a little liquid smores action ... no campfire required.

[Scott Anaya]

Since I was penalized for posting my 20 yr tawny TN a day before August was official, I'll add a TN light on a great side-by side 20 year taste off at my buddy's remote fly-in lodge in Skwentna Alaska.

Around an 8 person poker table pretty late in the evening and after almost a case of Southern Rhone wines with our smoked Goose--meaning I was handicapped on any formal note taking, the Ramos Pinto 20 yr was the clear favorite (by far) of all 8 drinkers over the Taylor 20. From memory, I would also put the Ramos Pinto at a 94/100 2 points higher than the 92 I gave the Sandeman 20 in late July. The Ramos Pinto finish just went on and on.

[João Rico]

Calem 20 Years Old Tawny


Great ambar color with green edges. Nose of toffee, caramel, died fruits, tobacco and marmalade. Great viscosity, great balance, great finish an of course great Tawny.
94 Pts



João Rico

[Robert O.]

Graham's 20 Year Tawny

I had tried this about a month ago and while wasn't blown away by it, I enjoyed it. My local retailer, which has a spotty port collection at best, had restocked so I thought I'd give it another taste.

My allergies are acting up so I can't say much about the nose other than that there was little alcohol. The color was plum, with some amber tones. The dominant taste is vanilla, a little creme brulée. Abrupt finish with some hints of nuts.

Again, my big criticism is that it isn't as nutty as I would like but it is enjoyable. I again give it an 89/100.

[Kris Henderson]

Kopke 20 Year Tawny (bottled 2006)

I have gained a great respect for the Colheita's of this old Port house. Based on thier reputation for Colheita's, I figured their 20 Year Tawny would be a safe bet.

The color is fairly typical for a 20 year tawny. It's a nice light brown with a light ruby core. The nose offers up complex aromas of dried fruits, nuts, dates, spices, leaves, and a little alcohol. The palate is medium to full body with a light silky texture. Medium sweetness and striking acidity. The finish is lengthy and persistent with an oxidative note to it. Overall, true to the style and a very enjoyable drink. 93

[Michael C.]

What's the FTLOP policy on cross-posting between the "Tasting Notes" section and the Virtual Tasting Room?

20 Year Old Tawny Port by Fonseca
For those who may be interested, I just posted my notes on the Fonseca 20 Year Tawny. I'm sorry to say that I wholeheartedly agree with Todd's assessment above -- the Fonseca that I had this week did not live up to the bottle I had earlier in 2007. Not a terrible 20 year by any means ... but not a stellar example either.

For the full notes, see my post here:
http://www.fortheloveofport.com/ftlopfo ... php?t=3563

[Gary Banker]

Niepoort 20 Year Old Tawny

Bottled in 2006.

Prominent alcohol when first opened and for two days after, but has now integrated. Sweet and rich, but lacking complexity. This is very good, but not so good as when I have had it before. The price has gone up. This was $80 before discount.

Gary Banker

[Michael C.]

This was $80 before discount.

Ouch! That is probably the most expensive 20 year Tawny I have ever heard of... Is that typical of the Niepoort? Most of the 20 years that I buy are in the $45-$55 range.

[Alex R]

Niepoort 20 Year Old Tawny

Bottled in 2006.

Prominent alcohol when first opened and for two days after, but has now integrated. Sweet and rich, but lacking complexity. This is very good, but not so good as when I have had it before. The price has gone up. This was $80 before discount.

Gary Banker

Hey Gary, have you tried the niepoort 10yr? niepoort is the only tawny that I prefer the 10yr over the 20yr. In value and in taste.

[Gary Banker]

Alex,

I've never had the 10-year. This is the first time I've seen the 20-year tawny in a few years.

Gary

[Roy Hersh]

What a fantastic list and I thank all of you who did participate, as I found this a really intriguing read. Great stuff!

20 Year Old Tawnies reviewed in this thread:

Calem
Delaforce
Dow
Fonseca - 2TNs
Graham's
Kopke
Krohn
Niepoort
Quinta do Noval
Ramos Pinto
Sandeman - 2 TNs
Warre's Otima

[Andy Velebil]

Ok, finally got some time to catch up on writing some TN's. This is from a few weeks ago.

The color is a golden orange with a redish tint and looks more like it is on the older side of a 20 year blend. Don't know the actual overall average age, but I would bet it's a bit older average than most. The nose has some great spice, carmel, and hints of oak that are prominent. The complex palate of spicy pepper, toffee, a touch of tannins, and wood fill the mouth with instant pleasure. A long finish rounds out a very solid 20 year. 93 point.

[Andy Velebil]

Bottled 2007

This was consumed over about a week.

Day 1:
A new more traditional bottle shape is now used for this one, in place of the old short fat bottle. No real TN as I just opened this but a lighter color than most 20 yrs. hazlenut, vanilla, and carmel nose. A bit thin and simple on the palate right now with tannins still noticable and a good dose of unintegrated Aguardentes. Actually, I can taste the aguardentes itself...boy that brought back some memories of trying it raw for the first time at Vargellas...and not good memories mind you not very good at this stage

After a few days this really has come a long way. Much more integrated now, although still not totally balanced. The tannins have mellowed leaving some simple carmel and vanilla flavors with a simple medium finish. Although very drinkable now, it is not on par with many other 20 years out there, even though this typically sells for far less than others. I guess sometimes you get what you pay for :? 83 points

[Gary Banker]

Looking at the list of 20-year tawnies that were reported for this month, I'm a little surprised not to see Taylor's. I've always liked the bottles that I've had and it seems to be well distributed.

I did not see Burmester on the list, either. Is it widely available? The distributor in Massachesetts seems to be getting it into a lot of stores.

Gary