For The Love Of Port

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Europe's hidden treasure
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Portugal - By 24 HOURS NEWS SERVICES

Portugal remains Europe's wonderful little secret.

It is an ancient country, one steeped in history and tradition, where the pace is relaxed, and simple pleasures are held dear. Pretense is a foreign concept.

It is a country filled with magnificent castles, palaces and fortresses. Its history is marvelous, one shaped by the Romans, Moors and Celts. But unlike other European countries, whose histories are well chronicled, whose national treasures are trumpeted, Portugal is virtually unknown.

PASTEIS DE BELEM

Belem district, Lisbon

The Antiga Confeitaria de Belem is home to the Holy Grail of Portuguese dessert: Pasteis de Belem. Since 1837, this place has been lovingly crafting these lovely little creamy custard tarts using a centuries-old recipe that is supposedly known to only three people in the world. You watch as women workers tuck spirals of dough into small baking tins. The custard and dough, however, are made behind closed doors.

With a taste that can't be beat, it is little wonder that Pateis de Belem sells 30,000 of these tarts on average each and every day.

BACALHAU DE MOLHO RESTAURANT

Alfama district, Lisbon

Lisbon's history goes back two millenia. One of its oldest districts is Alfama, which dates back to the 13th century. Since it largely survived the 1755 earthquake unscathed, the area still retains much of its Moorish ambiance.

Bacalhau de Molho restaurant in Casa de Linhares is built in the foundations of an aristocratic house destroyed in the earthquake. It has red-brick and stone columns, and an enormous fireplace.

Here you can hear the soulful sounds of Fado. A lone singer, usually female and wearing a black shawl, is accompanied by two guitarists. She belts out three melancholy songs, often about destiny, betrayal, death or despair. The emotion is raw and real, and audiences are often moved to tears if the fadista is performing it correctly.

CABO DA ROCA

It is the point "where the earth ends and the sea begins." Cabo da Roca, the western most point of continental Europe is located about 40 kilometres west of Lisbon. Celebrated by Portuguese poet Camoes, I stood here as thousands have done for centuries before me and contemplated the view. It is here, atop the steep cliffs 140 metres above water, the ocean breeze gently kissing your face, amid the beauty and the wonder of the sea crashing against the sky, that you pause to reflect on the spot that was once the end of the earth.

THE CONVENT OF CAPUCHOS

Sintra, Portugal

It is a moving experience, almost religious. As you come into the clearing, you are met by three looming crosses symbolizing Christ's crucifixion. The Convent of Capuchos, a short drive from Cabo da Roca, located along a long, leafy twisted road in the middle of a forested mountain nowhere, stands in stark contrast to the palatial wealth and excess on display in nearby Sintra. Founded in 1560 by Don Alvaro de Castro, King Sebastian's state counsellor, the Convent of the Holy Cross of the Serra de Sintra was built on a mountaintop amid ancient woodland.

THE BEACHES

The Algarve

The Algarve, in southern Portugal, features 200 kilometres of shoreline, more than 300 days of sunshine per year, clean, clear water, sandy beaches and spectacular cliffs along with a mild Atlantic breeze. It's little surprise then that it is renowned for its beaches. The larger ones teem with sun worshippers. If you take a drive up the Vincentina coastline, there are small beaches, yours to discover.

One of my own fears, (as discussed at great length with the PR person at Aquapura recently) is that with all the hotel development, new restaurants, more cruise ships up the Douro ... that it will eventually lose much of what makes it such a very special place on earth.

I visited Napa for the first time in 1982 and it was still very much a sleepy little wine region, with no traffic, no charging for tastes of wine, no Disney-esque feel to it and just a handful of good eateries.

Now it is very distasteful to me, unless you are ITB and have connections and go on a weekday and go in an off-month with specific appointments.

God forbid that the Douro winds up like this 20 years down the pike!

Oh man I fear this a lot Roy. Aquapura success will probably influence more business man to follow their steps and make hotels like this more usual in the Douro. Unfortunately Aquapura PR business is very active and there are a lot of journalists coming to visit the hotel and of course report on the Douro.

I really hope, as so many others in the Douro, that the tourist industry will stop at Regua. Until the highway hits Pinhao, we are probably safe. This year was the first time I was seeing so many tourists and journalists in the Douro. The main street at Regua was having a line of 20+ Bus. It was so ugly for the scenery.

I think this is going to happen sooner rather than later. I was surprised that this year the Douro seemed a lot busier than last year. New higher end restaurant, nice hotels and B&B's opening. And lets not forget Taylor's plan to build a LARGE hotel in Villa Nova de Gaia. I can see the Douro turning into a version of Napa in time.

Everytime I head to Napa the tasting rooms are full of people paying nothing to a few dollars for a tasting, then leaving with numerous bottles in hand. Of course all paid at top retail pricing. This could be good for the companies to get an influx of capital, and hopefully allow the smaller producers to be "discovered" by the masses. although, for us Port geeks, prices would surly rise to offset the demand.

Guys,

you cant blame the portmakers for trying to make some money. Portugal has always been one of the poorest countries in Europe. The last decade or so tourists are finding their way to Portugal, starting with the Algarve. Slowly they go up north. The Douro is one of the last regions to be explored by the masses. Some of the guys here were lucky to see the unspoiled Douro region. I haven't been there yet although i am planning to go there next spring with a very small, very local tour-operator. For me that is the only way to explore the Douro since i have no drivers license. And....lets not forget, most people who visit the region are 50+, the baby-boomers. They have always earned well and worked hard. Now they want to travel in style and luxury and the big tour-operators are giving that to them. With their excellent marketing-strategy they fill up a gap. So you can fear all you want, but it is the future. So go there before the Douro has turned into an American-style theme park

Erik Wiechers wrote:Guys,
I haven't been there yet although i am planning to go there next spring with a very small, very local tour-operator. For me that is the only way to explore the Douro since i have no drivers license.

Erik, I don't have a driver liscence either And believe me you can do this alone if you want. The train is going amost everywhere, even in the Douro. You just need some planning ahead, there is always a taxi ready to serve too. Every taxi driver has a mobile phone and you can reach time anytime of the day and night. I've spent 12 days in the Douro this year using only the train and taxi. You'll also develop some connection there that are going to lift you from time to time!

If you need some tips, feel free to contact me.

Or -- if you'd like to join our small band of Port fiends in the Spring, we will be offering tours of Oporto/Gaia and the Douro. It is not always what you see, but also who you meet and what you get to eat and especially what you get to drink along the way.

Or -- if you'd like to join our small band of Port fiends in the Spring, we will be offering tours of Oporto/Gaia and the Douro. It is not always what you see, but also who you meet and what you get to eat and especially what you get to drink along the way.

Hmmm, you made me curious Roy. Is that the so-called fortification tour ? Or is this the tour where the details will be given at the end of the month ?

Yes Erik, the one and both are the same. The Fortification Tour. Refer to the dates listed in the thread at the top of the PORTUGAL TRAVEL Forum.