For The Love Of Port

I just read that Vargellas is in the Douro Superior-Does that make it's quality any less than if it was in the Cima Corgo- or does its characteristic of being the backbone or punch of Taylor Vintage Port come from the fact that it is from the Douro Superior- whereas if it were in the Cima Corgo it might have more finess and less punch--Sort of an Arabica>Rustico type situation, if I may transitionalize for a second. Also and not making comparisons but I see that Malvedos is in the Cima Corgo! Also-I do understand that it is the blend of and not the origin in particular of grapes that make a great port great.

Nick,

If you ask the producers this question, you will get completely different answers depending on where their own quintas are located..

One well known and generally moderate producer (who happens to source all of his wines from the Cima Corgo..) is firmly of the view that the Douro Superior should be excluded from the port producing region altogether.

Others, with interests somewhat to the east of his, beg to differ..

There is an argument (which I find valid) that too much table wine is being made in prime Cima Corgo quintas and too much port is being made from low grade quintas elsewhere.

However, any attempt to change the status quo would have such a profound impact both on the livelihoods of many people, and the value of the properties they own, that radical change is unlikely to ever happen.

As Tom said, there isn't a simple answer and any answer you get will be heavily biased.

But I suppose the short answer is no, there is not a significant quality difference between Ports from the Douro Superior and ports from the Cima Corgo, provided we're talking about similar quality Quintas from each location. Comparing Malvedos or Vargellas or Vesuvio to some random tiny family owned and operated producer isn't an apples-to-apples comparison.

My favorite Vintage Ports year-to-year are generally Graham's, Vesuvio, Fonseca, and Vale Meao. That's 2 each from the Douro Superior and Cima Corgo.

And I think an argument I've heard is that while the Douro Superior might generally be inferior, some of the quintas there are so large that they can take advantage of microclimates and be more selective in their picking; so the net result is a wine just as good as what you might get from a smaller quinta elsewhere, or even better.

Nick Lagrega wrote:I just read that Vargellas is in the Douro Superior-Does that make it's quality any less than if it was in the Cima Corgo- or does its characteristic of being the backbone or punch of Taylor Vintage Port come from the fact that it is from the Douro Superior- whereas if it were in the Cima Corgo it might have more finess and less punch--Sort of an Arabica>Rustico type situation, if I may transitionalize for a second. Also and not making comparisons but I see that Malvedos is in the Cima Corgo! Also-I do understand that it is the blend of and not the origin in particular of grapes that make a great port great.

As others mentioned. This is a tough question as there are many variables that come into play; such as weather, soil, alititude, what grapes are planted, and even down to vineyard management. However, typically in the Douro the better quality grapes for Port come from the Cima and Superior parts of it. The western most parts tend to be cooler and get more rain, which isn't always bad, but grapes will ripen slower there than other parts. Harvest typically starts in the Superior then moves west. If a heavy rains or other weather issues comes mid harvest it often affects the best grapes in the western parts where it may not rain at all in the Superior (or they had already harvested their best grapes or all their grapes already).

It really depends on what you are making too. A lot of the lesser priced ports which are made in a style to drink young use grapes from the more western areas of the Douro. They make good fruit forward Ports but they may not have the phenological ripeness to sustain long term aging, which is what you'd want in say a VP or top end LBV or SQVP.

That is a big generalization but also a good rule of thumb.

Eric Menchen wrote:And I think an argument I've heard is that while the Douro Superior might generally be inferior, some of the quintas there are so large that they can take advantage of microclimates and be more selective in their picking; so the net result is a wine just as good as what you might get from a smaller quinta elsewhere, or even better.

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Glenn E. wrote:As Tom said, there isn't a simple answer and any answer you get will be heavily biased.

But I suppose the short answer is no, there is not a significant quality difference between Ports from the Douro Superior and ports from the Cima Corgo, provided we're talking about similar quality Quintas from each location. Comparing Malvedos or Vargellas or Vesuvio to some random tiny family owned and operated producer isn't an apples-to-apples comparison.

My favorite Vintage Ports year-to-year are generally Graham's, Vesuvio, Fonseca, and Vale Meao. That's 2 each from the Douro Superior and Cima Corgo.

^5