TN: N.V. Valdespino Sherry Palo Cortado Viejo C.P. Macharnudo alto
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 7:06 pm
N.V. Valdespino Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Palo Cortado Viejo C.P. Macharnudo alto, lot 1421420915XX, upc 8421449102702, bottled for JESA, Jeres de la Frontera, spana (Grupo Estevez); imported: Vineyard Road, Inc., Framingham, MA. 20 percent abv. Purchased at Auction: WineBid.com; $35/750 ml plus 19% bp.
At first quite a bit of volatility, but with evident complexity underneath. Broad, with a full whiff of almond, veal broth, dried fruit, and shellac/pecan mixture enveloped in gentle citrus peel with unusual harmony and balance, even from the Pitiless. Vivid crispness on entry, with an almost seamless expression of the nose, but still a somewhat juicy mouth-feel leading to a quiet, enveloping finish. Obviously serious old vines grapes went into this but so did impeccable cellar work over many years. Not only a highly typical dry Palo Cortado, but a masterpiece of this most interesting category of Sherry. 96/100. Less nose but more palate from a Copita.
Only sadness: even at the opening price, I paid too much compared with WineSearcher. And that, my friends, tells you what an incredible bargain this 96-point wine is, and would be at literally twice the price, as I've been screaming for years, after I got tired of saying similar things about German wines.
It should be noted that this wine is sourced from the inner albaritz inland around Jerez. 17 ha are still reserved for the production of several of the finest musts that feed the Soleras of Valdespino. I've misconceived that all the pure chalk is in the Barrameda seaside region--there is a large area further away from the sea. This seems to make fuller, winier sherries with less emphasis on the energetics and high-tones.
This was tasted from the same kind of glass against an Amontillado 51/1a 30 y/o VORS, not exactly fair to either wine because of pronounced stylistic differences, but here goes: Much darker in color, a green-tinted brown. Sweet leather, broth, tea, sawn pine, sweet roasted nuts, anise, with a sense that there is much more that could be picked apart or remembered. A much punchier entry with more mixed-nut impressions on the tongue, with a finish that means to show you the importance of that part of the palate sensations. This sample is from the same bottle I reviewed last week, having sat at room temperature in a liquor cupboard ever since, but not having suffered--perhaps it's better. I remember it being a lot less integrated and of a less harmonious expressiveness, even though of evidently high quality. The Copita makes tossing this back easier, to its benefit. More evidence, if any is yet needed, for the Trombley Sherry Theorem. 95-96/100. (96 pts.)
Also, I am starting to see that even great sherries can be better if they are gulped a bit after the analytical tastings are over. Puts the whole food-and-sherry-and-great party thing in perspective, and gets one in the Andalusian mood, even if one's never actually been there, more's the pity
At first quite a bit of volatility, but with evident complexity underneath. Broad, with a full whiff of almond, veal broth, dried fruit, and shellac/pecan mixture enveloped in gentle citrus peel with unusual harmony and balance, even from the Pitiless. Vivid crispness on entry, with an almost seamless expression of the nose, but still a somewhat juicy mouth-feel leading to a quiet, enveloping finish. Obviously serious old vines grapes went into this but so did impeccable cellar work over many years. Not only a highly typical dry Palo Cortado, but a masterpiece of this most interesting category of Sherry. 96/100. Less nose but more palate from a Copita.
Only sadness: even at the opening price, I paid too much compared with WineSearcher. And that, my friends, tells you what an incredible bargain this 96-point wine is, and would be at literally twice the price, as I've been screaming for years, after I got tired of saying similar things about German wines.
It should be noted that this wine is sourced from the inner albaritz inland around Jerez. 17 ha are still reserved for the production of several of the finest musts that feed the Soleras of Valdespino. I've misconceived that all the pure chalk is in the Barrameda seaside region--there is a large area further away from the sea. This seems to make fuller, winier sherries with less emphasis on the energetics and high-tones.
This was tasted from the same kind of glass against an Amontillado 51/1a 30 y/o VORS, not exactly fair to either wine because of pronounced stylistic differences, but here goes: Much darker in color, a green-tinted brown. Sweet leather, broth, tea, sawn pine, sweet roasted nuts, anise, with a sense that there is much more that could be picked apart or remembered. A much punchier entry with more mixed-nut impressions on the tongue, with a finish that means to show you the importance of that part of the palate sensations. This sample is from the same bottle I reviewed last week, having sat at room temperature in a liquor cupboard ever since, but not having suffered--perhaps it's better. I remember it being a lot less integrated and of a less harmonious expressiveness, even though of evidently high quality. The Copita makes tossing this back easier, to its benefit. More evidence, if any is yet needed, for the Trombley Sherry Theorem. 95-96/100. (96 pts.)
Also, I am starting to see that even great sherries can be better if they are gulped a bit after the analytical tastings are over. Puts the whole food-and-sherry-and-great party thing in perspective, and gets one in the Andalusian mood, even if one's never actually been there, more's the pity