For The Love Of Port

Well, I'm drinking port again, surprise, surprise (this time a Warres '94 LBV - a little firecracker given enough air), but having added some TN's to the bottom of the thread last week, which has died a death, I wonder if this post under a specific title might prompt some more TN's from the same event!?? Would be nice to know what other people thought of what was a pretty major port event in the UK: the first 'official' Roy Hersh For the Love of Port London offline!

Anyway, most know all the details, but some notes follow, and I hope they don't turn out to be the only ones?

Lindens’ Blind wine. A light ruby – couldn’t see if there was any browning at the rim. Light, spicy fruit on the nose and simple red/cherry fruits and warmth from the alcohol. Seemed like a ripe vintage, possibly losing fruit. Linden mentions ripe vintage is on track – but I not quite getting where he was coming from, go along with a less known house from ’77. Instead, a Dow’s LBV ’61! Quite a novelty - thanks Linden!

As for points, well they are personal. I have more consideration for what the wine tastes like on the day, and after around 15-20 mins air. It’s the only way I know to provide a level playing field for wines served together - as well as avoid the impression I actually know what the wine might peak at! Instead, a + for those that seem to have upside.

Flight 1 1963


Colours quite similar – but Fonseca deepest, Graham’s lightest with some bricking.

Sandeman

Slightly dry/dusty cherry fruit; some date like development. Palate entry also a little dusty with lightish red fruits. Not deep, but good balance with integrated alcohol providing a comfortable warmth. No long on fruit, but a hint of currant/smoke draws out the finish. Nose seems to get progressively more dusty towards cardboardy, and TCA seems probable to me. However, another 30 minutes or so after, no sign of it so not TCA. An odd taint, but clears with air and an additional tea like character emerges. Might just be signs of the wine breaking down, but not easy to be sure either way. Overall this lighter style wine provides interest and enjoyable balance – especially once the dusty edge disappears. 88-/100


Grahams

High toned – touch of nail varnish and sweet red fruit on the nose. Not complex with pinched fruit and a hint of tea. Lovely entry though, rich, sweet glycerol – less problem with the VA on the palate. Lovely balance overall and a clean finish. Some lingering fruit. Gets progressively better with air as the VA diminishes, but again a fully mature wine it seems which could be sliding. 91- (would be higher if not for the VA)

Taylor

Datey/figgy nose – also a touch high toned but more subtle with an almost minty edge; slightly firm entry with bright acids and powerful, somewhat hot spirity fruit – firm but still seemingly mature - overall an attractive, if somewhat singular style. 92


Fonseca

Somewhat closed nose; dates, curranty, concentrated red fruits. Firm palate; richer fruit than the above ports with good extract – but still not supple and open enough for readiness for drinking. Some tannic astringency still – quite long. Opens a touch with air to show dense, slightly smokey/burnt fruit. Still unwinding but certainly classic. 94+ today, should improve significantly if it opens out as hoped.



Flight 2 1966


More variation in colour here, with the Sandeman relatively light and the Fonseca darkest by far.

Sandeman

Light spicy/cherry nose. Much more fruit and sweetness than the ’63 - better balanced. A sweeter, more fruity nose with air. Quite powerful warming fruit – not quite the sweetness of a typical Grahams but without VA and a very pleasurable showing in a lighter style. 91

Taylors

Not quite bright, colour/weight similar to the Grahams. Figgy/datey nose – some demarrara sugar – nicely open and mature. Lovely raison/dried but sweet fruit on the palate – good structure too with just a touch of astringency – quite powerful in a typical Taylor style, and probably the best example of this one for me – certainly at peak. 93.

Grahams

More volatility here in the ’66 than I like – as with the ’63 – but some tea/spicy/smokey notes for complexity though. Again palate entry is lovely – with slightly sweet mature fruit with rounded mouthfeel and agreeable ‘lick your lips’ sweetness on finish. 92. Would be higher but for the VA.

Fonseca

Nose of slightly vegetal/leafy/licorice/cedary red fruits – complex but the vegetal element is a touch distracting. (This was perplexing as I’d not come across it before in the ’66, but I have found it in Fonseca, for example ’83 and ’97). Similar flavours on the palate with more coffee/cedary concentrated fruit – somewhat plumy still – long with still some tannins to soften further – with a hint of smoke on the finish. Quite youthful really, but very drinkable. The small dregs left the next day (no sediment in them) bizzarely showed no green notes at all. I’ve no explanation for what it was then, as underripe fruit is underripe fruit and I’m working on the assumption it ain’t going to disappear with aeration! 95+?


Flight 3 1970 – blind.



A: Darkest colour – leaning towards the Fonseca already. Datey, figgy, spicy Christmas cake (note after the event – jeezz, if that wasn’t a pointer that it could be the Grahams – what was I needing!); good rich and structured fruit – youthful – excellent. One if not the best of the ports showing ports of the day for me, and I guess Fonseca. 96+. Revealed as the Grahams.

B:Lightest colour – leaning towards the Sandeman. Somewhat light, spicy/tea and simple cherry fruit nose. Tea, currant and simple light fruit on the palate but nicely balanced. A nice style and guess correctly as the Sandeman. 85

C: Mid colour. Sweet cherry/cranberry nose – no VA to help me spot it as Grahams but I’m erring towards it on colour. Quite a strong element of minerality running through the palate – quite firm and powerful but with good ripe fruit and sweetness to balanced. Some heat on finish is a touch distracting though. Youthful, powerful and yet I guess Grahams. 94+ Revealed as the Fonseca.

D: Slightly dusty, curranty fruit and then quite a drying disjointed finish. Initially thought it might need some air (a la the miscall on the Sandeman ’63). But showed quite quickly to be real not imagined TCA at work. The Taylors.



Well, I’ve mentioned about the impressive Portal wines, but in summary the 2003 Portal+ was silky, forward, lovely balanced and practically gluggable. I loved it, and showed a balance and elegance I associate with young Fonseca – but the structure and power comes in the Portal 2003. More Taylor like with its quite prominent alcohol and astringency from the structure. The most VP like of the 3, has to be said! The Sandeman 2003 struck me more like a just release Unfiltered LBV. Lovely balance, less obvious fruit than the Portal +, but supple and early drinking. Lovely young port at that.

Great notes Nick - I only wish I could have made it! Oh well, perhaps next time...

I promise that I will post my notes, I just don't have them with me and I'm still not back in the UK.

Sometime next week they should appear.

Alex

I am back from my trip to Edmonton, Canada and won't travel again this year (hopefully). I was there for a Dow vertical tasting. Fun stuff!

The UK tasting was fabulous but of course I will be putting my two cents in the newsletter, rather than posting my TNs here (first). Sorry for that, but I need to boost the circulation somehow.

Then again, you guys can tell your friends about the website and newsletter (both are free of course) and that would be most appreciated!

Fabulous day in honour of Roy Hersh being over in Blighty. Full sit-down meal with great company and a truly exceptional line-up. Thanks to Alex B for setting it all up, a superb job.

As always my notes got slightly less coherent as the tasting progressed. I put this down to the failure to issue a spitting bucket. Not that I would have used it but the presence always keeps one on one's toes. Mine will be nowhere near as comprehensive as Nick's anyway.

Linden's blind - I thought that this was quite young as the colour suggested it might be. It had a classic dry quality that immediately put me in mind of Dow or Taylor but didn't have a clue what style. Plenty of life in the nose and palate and wasn't in the least surprised to find that it was Dow's LBV, just by the fact that it was 1961 - would never have guessed. Thanks Linden.

Flight 1 - 1963

Sandeman, from Derek Turnbull

Dusty characteristic. Lightest coloured port on display. Nose was muted with the dustiness the strongest with some light cherry notes behind. In the mouth it wa squite pleasant but held nothing great and seemed like it was falling apart - drink NOW. After about 30 minutes the dusty nose had blown off and some pleasant dried fruits had emerged. Perfectly nice but simple port and nothing spectacular.

Graham's, from Christopher Gee

Darker red colour with brown tinge, excellent legs. Nose was figgy and in the mouth it was very sharp on the tongue. Nice coffe notes but were a bit over-powered. Tasting later the sharpness had faded and the coffee and dried figs came out beautifully, excellent port in the end.

Taylor, from Alex Kilbey (who?)

Slightly browned-off deep ruby. Very sharp note on the nose, similar to the Taylor's sharpness. Massive alcoholic hit in the mouth and again distinctly sharp but cherries and plums were also banging about vying for position. Later on the acidic hit had turned to orange and made for a lovely complex fruit-filled wine.

Fonseca, from Alex Bridgeman

Easily the reddest, pure ruby wine, no noticeable browning. Classic floral Fonseca nose and masses of dried fruits with prunes being at the front for me. A genuinely beautiful and youthful wine with a gorgoeus mouthfeel. For me, the wine of the day.

Flight 2 - 1966

Sandeman, from Nicos Neocleous (Gooner in residence)

The musky noes that was on the 1963 was here again showing that it is unlikely to be a fault and more of a feature of the wine. First note of any nuts that I found with distinct almond flavour, almost marzipan. Considerably more lively than the 1963 and showing that my second ever Sandeman wasn't going to be my second-last. I got to take this home with me which meant walking around tube and railway stations with an opened bottle of booze in my hands looking for all the World like a down and out hobo. Finished it off at home with Lady K and it was an extremely pleasant way to finish the day. Not sure that I would go to the effort and expense of buying this myself as the following notes will show.

Taylor's, from Roy Hersh

A distinct haziness against the light became a little pool of grit by the time we had finished, suspect htat htis was due to transport trauma. Slightly muted nose with fennel being the strongest (OK, it was aniseed but Derek and I agreed to put different notes down). Much haevier body than the 63 and notably sweeter. Maraschino cherries abounded and a lovely warm brandy. This was a gorgeous wine by the time we'd finished with it and I was straining the grit between my teeth to get the last of it.

Graham's, from Ian Wright (not a Gooner but a Sky Blue - woohoo)

Darker than the 63 and actually gloopy. The acidity form 63 was missing but it was all sweet cherries, plums and raisins. This was the epitome of what Graham's should be like and, for me, was the pick of 1966 for drinking now.

Fonseca, from Nick Alabaster

Very sweet nose, dark as the pits of hell without the fires on. I wrote "Bloody Hell!" on tasting it. This was simply the most powerful of ports. Huge cherries and fabulous coffee notes on the finish. Far too many different flavours to pick and catch before something else took over. I had an inexplicable 'buttercups' pop into my head - don't ask. This still has many years, if not decades, left in it. A really quite spectacular wine but needs more time!

Flight 3 - 1970 - tasted blind

Sandeman, from Jo Marshall

Spotted whilst the ports were being poured. Easily the lightest and the musky nose was back again. Possibly the best of the Sandeman's which suggests earlier drinking all round. Nice, no more notes.

Graham's, from Justin Willott

Pitch black, OK not quite but was the obvious choice for the Fonseca. Swilling around the glass it was... gloopy, aha! Nose was sweet cherry... uhu! In the mouth it was sweet and viscose and I picked it as the Graham's straight out. This was notably a better bottle than we had at the Berry Brothers and Rudd tasting in August and this with the 66 are putting me back onto Graham's after being less impressed then. I earn one brownie point for this spot. Now how to lose it.

Taylor's, from Linden Wilkie

Dark Ruby but not as dark as the Graham's. Nose of cherries and dried fruit with a muskiness that later became obviously TCA. In the mouth it was dried fruits with a coffee after-taste prompting me to claim that it was indisputably Fonseca - wrong! Shame about the TCA as I reckon this could have been the best of the vintage.

Fonseca, from Mario Ferreira

Similar colour to the Taylor's. Later the floral nose came out but never the coffee. It was, however, packed with fruit and plenty of other things to make it the best of 1970, just over the Graham's.

Best of 1963 - Fonseca
Best of 1966 - Graham's
Best of 1970 - Fonseca

Overall best Vintage - 1966
Overall best Producer - Fonseca (by a country mile, never again Bin 27)
Best Wine on Display - Fonseca 1963
Best for the future - Fonseca 1966

The only person to pick Fonseca 1970 - Ian Wright.

Best lines from conversation/discussion/debate/full-bloodied-argument between Nicos and Nick:

"I haven't got pre-conceived ideas, I've got experience" - Nicos

"Wine is better when you don't know what you are talking about" - Nick

Guys,

Firstly, it was fantastic to see my close friend Roy Hersh. He has been totally instrumental in my growing addiction to Port. A total pleasure and an honour.

Secondly, thanks to Alex for organising the excellent luncheon event. Thirdly, thanks to everyone for coming along. It was good to make new friends and catch up with older ones. Nick and I nearly came to blows! Wink

I should post my TN's in due course...

Nicos

As promised, here are the tasting notes that I took on the day.

Dow 1961 LBV, bottled 1965
Pale red colour, deep rose.
Spirity nose with red fruits underlying.
Sweet entry with pronounced alcoholic structure. Liquorice and aniseed balls. Syrup overtones.
Rasiny aftertaste with good length. 86/100

(I was stunned when Linden revealed this to be an LBV from 1961 - I was guessing a Grahams from an "off" vintage such as 1976.)

FLIGHT 1 - 1963
Sandeman
Decented for 6 hours when poured.
Clear and pale with a browning rim. Ruby centre.
Sweet, dusty nose (the topic of dust tones in wines generated some conversation).
Fiery into the mouth with the dust tones noticeable. Sweet and rasiny mid-palate with some fire from the alcohol. Lots of chocolate and coffee. Great way to start the tasting.
Slightly short on the length. Overall a very pleasant wine which I gave 89/100. (I have a couple of these in my cellar and will aim to open them over the next 12 months.)

Thanks to Derek and Jo for the bottle (and for the Sandeman 1970).


Grahams
Decanted for 2 hours when poured.
Deeper colour. Auburn edge and deep centre, slightly watery edge.
Ethereal nose - which reminded me of the small of fresh air when you throw open the windows on an April morning. Hints of apples and VA - both of which vanished with time in the glass.
Smooth entry into the mouth. Dry initial flavour developing to a sweet mid-palate with chocolate and raspberries.
The aftertaste is coffee and walnuts and a good length.
Overall, a better wine than the Sandeman. I gave this 90/100.

Thanks to Christopher for buying this wine.


Taylors
Decanted for 5½ hours when poured. (Sourced from a cellar in Belfast, where the wine had been kept since being purchased in 1966. Belfast merchant bottling.)

Auburn centre, browning rim but depth of colour consistent across the wine.
Nose hot and alcoholic. Alcohol overwhelms everything else.
Warm and smooth into the mouth. Lots of acidity with a sharp liquorice edge (which others also described as mint).
Good length with warm chocolate and stewed red berries.
Overall, I was pleased with this wine. 94/100.

The pronounced alcoholic nature of this particular bottle was consistent with my experience with Taylors '63 - although I have probably only drunk this wine 2 or 3 times before - but Nick and Roy both said there was something odd about the alcoholic nature of the wine that was not consistent with their previous experience.

Thanks to Alex Kilbey for buying this wine.


Fonseca
Decanted for 6 hours when poured.
Deep red colour. By far the deepest in colour of the '63s. More red and less brown that the others.
Warm and inviting nose of strawberries. A hint of alcohol.
Very full into the mouth, sweet but not flabby. Strawberry syrup with a simple mid-palate hinting at more to offer.
Good length, dominated by chocolate flavours.
My first experience of the Fonseca '63. Surprisingly simple (although very good) for what I have heard and read about this wine. Is this all it has to offer? 96/100.

This was the wine that I brought.



FLIGHT 2 - 1966
Sandeman
Decanted for 4½ hours when poured.
Deeper colour and more red that the '63 Sandeman with the colour holding into the rim.
Nose of stewed red fruits, warmed by a dose of alcohol.
Smooth and sweet into the mouth, hint of VA. Lots of cooked soft red fruit in the mid palate. Length repectable. A much better wine that the '63. Overall score of 94/100.

Thanks to Nicos for raiding his cellar for this wine.


Grahams
Decanted for 3 hours when poured. From a magnum.
Deep red colour with a chestnut centre, colour holding into the rim.
Nose tight, but with warm fruit coming through with work.
In the mouth was full of fruit and liquorice - boysenberries, redcurrants and overtones of figs. Good complexity in the mid-palate and excellent length with the liquorice holding right through the aftertaste.
At this point, my notes stopped recording point scores for the wines - a problem arising from the fact that I was refusing to spit any of these wines.

Thanks to Ian for supplying this - bought from his employer's cellars!


Taylor
Decanted for 4½ hours when poured.
Strong red centre, colour holding well into the rim.
Warm inviting nose, alcoholic to start until time blew this off.
Sharp into the mouth with a minty, earwaxy overtone. Balanced acidity and fruit in the mouth and a nice mid-palate of spices and tea. Moderate length.

Thanks to Roy for bringing his last Taylor '66 for the tasting!


Fonseca
Decanted for 5 hours when poured.
Deepest in colour of the '66 wines. Very strong, dark centre holding colour all the way through the rim.
Very smooth entry, heavy and glutinous. Very sweet. Peppery alcohol supporting huge amounts of fruit. Long length.
Very young wine with many years ahead of it still. Brought by Nick from a case he recently purchased at auction.



FLIGHT 3 - 1970
Sandeman
Decanted for 8 hours when poured.
Lightest colour of the four 1970 wines. Strong alcohol on the nose, not much fruit coming through. Sweet and balanced in the mouth, but a light and delicate fruit structure.
Correctly guessed as the Sandeman.


Grahams
Decanted for 8 hours when poured.
Deep plummy colour typical of Grahams. Nose clearly the Graham's expression of stewed red fruits in syrup.
In the mouth brings sweetness and liquorice - structure typical of Taylors, not the figginessand overwhelming sweetness I would expect of Grahams. Is this the Taylors? I'll go with Grahams.

Thanks to Justin for bringing the Grahams.


Taylors
Decanted for 8½ hours when poured.
Deepest colour of the four wines - Fonseca has been the deepest of the previous two flights.
Some VA and the structure of the nose makes me think of Taylors.
Big and thick in the mouth. Lots of fruit, mild tannins still there. Pepper and sweetness supporting a big structure. The sweetness and size convinces me. This is the Fonseca.

Thanks to Linden for bringing the Taylors.


Fonseca
Decanted for 8 hours when poured.
Colour is deep, but not the darkest of the four wines. Reminds me of the colour of the Taylors in the previous two flights.
Nose a bit musty, dusty with some subdued fruit present.
The structure in the mouth was big and voluptuous - could this be the Grahams? or the Taylors? I'll go with this being the Taylors because of the bigger structure.

Thanks to Mario for organising the Fonseca.



FLIGHT 4 - 2003 due to the kindness of Mario Ferriera
None of the 2003's were decanted before pouring.
All were the deep, opaque purple colour you would expect of a very young VP.

Sandeman
My first experience with drinking young Vintage Port, and one I was very much looking forward to.

Huge nose of raspberries and loganberries.
Massive dose of fruit and sweetness in the mouth. Lots of acidity to give a beautifully balanced wine and a superb drink today. Very, very smooth and with a length that I did not expect.

For me, this was the wine of the night and I will be buying a case as soon as it is shipped to the UK. This will be my house port for the next 6 months and will be drunk while (very) young. It has the potential to age, the tannic structure was there and came through after a lot of air time and slurping - but why would I want to age a wine like this when it is so up-front fabulous today? Delicious. Mind you, I was in a minority of 1 with this view - but I don't care since it means that I won't face much competition or see prices driven up!


Portal+ (tasted blind against the Portal)
Lively and fruity nose. Much more obvious tannic structure than the Sandeman, but still with a very balanced fruit impact in the mouth. Tannic structure dominates the length and leaves a dry finish. A good wine and an impressive drink today.


Portal (tasted blind against the Portal+)
Amongst all the black fruits there was an odd hint of potatoes on the nose. In the mouth the wine was smooth and silky. Huge fruit and a much more tannic structure than the the Portal+. Another good wine - but I prefer the previous wine.


When asked which of the two blind 2003's people preferred, the slim majority view was that the Portal+ was the better of the wines. But will this still be the view in 20 years time?



Overall Comments
Overall, one of the things that amazed me was the way that these wines developed in the glass. We started pouring the '63s about 3pm and left the venue at around 8pm. Over that time, many of the wines changed substantially. The Sandeman '63 put on a lot of weight and body over the five hours and was a much better wine when sipped as a parting gesture. At that point, I would have given it 92 points.

The Fonseca '63 was a disappointment to me - it was the one wine I had strict instructions to take any remnants home for my wife to finish off (the bottle was her birthday present to me). She had two small pours left. I am told (and her palate is better than mine) that while very enjoyable on Sunday evening, the wine was positively blooming when she had the second pour on Monday night - 36 hours after decanting. Just a pity that I wasn't there to share!

Favourite "old" vintage - 1966
Overall favourite wine - Sandeman 2003
Favourite "older" wine - Fonseca 1966

Finally, thanks to all who helped to make this a very enjoyable event and a great excuse to open some bottles of port that I would have found hard to open on my own.

Alex