Vertical tasting of Graham’s vintage ports – five decades
Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 3:01 am
Every Christmas our closest family (8 persons) are gathered for a port tasting. After having had many variations of tawny tastings it was time for vintage port (VP). My wife and I want the “young” part of the family (all in the early/mid-thirties) to learn more about vintage ports. The concept was for them to get the impressions of various ages of ports originating from the same wine yard. Decided to go for Graham’s VP. The tasting consisted of 1970, 1983, 1997, 2000 and 2011. The intention was to have 1994 included, but as that bottle appeared to be in a less preferable condition, I pulled out the alternative which was 1997. I am sure that many of the FTLOP Forum-readers knows all these ports well. There was some time since we have had many Graham’s VPs at the same tasting. Short overview:
1970 - 5 hrs decant A nice bottle, but not at the 95-level like the previous bottles from same purchase. It was clear that this style/age was not preferred by the “young” people. Acidity was growing the next couple of hours. This was the most expensive bottle, and they will most probably not buy 1970. 90 p.
1983 - 6 hrs decant This bottle did it very well. Powerful and elegant and is quite typical in style for many VPs from the early/mid-80s. Fruit is still there and so are also the tannins. Prunes. Well-balanced acidity/sweetness. Long aftertaste. 95 p.
1997 - 6 hrs decant Would have preferred 8 hrs, but got less as being stand-in for 1994. The structure was at 6 hrs not so good, and a bit awkward. However, after 8 hrs it had improved. Powerful, but not so elegant. Plenty berries, oak and some minerals. Tiny bit spirit in the taste. 91 p.
2000 - 8 hrs decant The initial decanting time appeared to be too short, as during the next 2-3 hrs it improved significantly. Powerful, plenty berries, figs, demanding tannins, slightly dry aftertaste. Will improve with longer storage. 92 p.
2011 - 9 hrs decant We purchased 6 btls at release in 2013, but had never tasted it. A very nice VP which will be perfect for long time storage, but can also be consumed now before entering the closed phase. Well-structured and well-balanced, plenty berries, powerful & elegant. 94 p.
Conclusion of the tasting:
The style of the 1983 showed power and elegance, and that went well with all 8 persons around the table. The same happened with 2011. These two styles/vintages came out as clear winners, with 1983 a point ahead of 2011. The 2000 was clearly in a closed phase and 8 hrs decanting (10-11 hrs including the open time) did not help it to bloom. Will leave those bottles in the cellar for at least another 5 years. The “young people” concluded that vintage ports are demanding and had a wider spectre of styles than most tawnies.
1970 - 5 hrs decant A nice bottle, but not at the 95-level like the previous bottles from same purchase. It was clear that this style/age was not preferred by the “young” people. Acidity was growing the next couple of hours. This was the most expensive bottle, and they will most probably not buy 1970. 90 p.
1983 - 6 hrs decant This bottle did it very well. Powerful and elegant and is quite typical in style for many VPs from the early/mid-80s. Fruit is still there and so are also the tannins. Prunes. Well-balanced acidity/sweetness. Long aftertaste. 95 p.
1997 - 6 hrs decant Would have preferred 8 hrs, but got less as being stand-in for 1994. The structure was at 6 hrs not so good, and a bit awkward. However, after 8 hrs it had improved. Powerful, but not so elegant. Plenty berries, oak and some minerals. Tiny bit spirit in the taste. 91 p.
2000 - 8 hrs decant The initial decanting time appeared to be too short, as during the next 2-3 hrs it improved significantly. Powerful, plenty berries, figs, demanding tannins, slightly dry aftertaste. Will improve with longer storage. 92 p.
2011 - 9 hrs decant We purchased 6 btls at release in 2013, but had never tasted it. A very nice VP which will be perfect for long time storage, but can also be consumed now before entering the closed phase. Well-structured and well-balanced, plenty berries, powerful & elegant. 94 p.
Conclusion of the tasting:
The style of the 1983 showed power and elegance, and that went well with all 8 persons around the table. The same happened with 2011. These two styles/vintages came out as clear winners, with 1983 a point ahead of 2011. The 2000 was clearly in a closed phase and 8 hrs decanting (10-11 hrs including the open time) did not help it to bloom. Will leave those bottles in the cellar for at least another 5 years. The “young people” concluded that vintage ports are demanding and had a wider spectre of styles than most tawnies.
![[cheers.gif]](./images/smilies/cheers.gif "Toast"){kind=small}