2016 Vintage Port Tasting Preview -- With many other Port notes too

[Andy Velebil]

2016 Vintage Port Declaration Release Tour
San Francisco, California
May 10, 2018

I was very fortunate to attend this Vintage Port Preview Tasting up in the scenic City of San Francisco, held at the beautiful Fairmont Hotel. For this Declaration four Houses teamed up to present their wines and, most importantly, their 2016 Vintage Ports. The Symington Family Estates, Quinta do Noval, The Fladgate Partnership and Quinta da Romaneira.

Before I get into my tasting notes I’ll detail some background information. The tasting was broken into four main parts. A short walk-around preview of many of the Ports, some White Port and a couple of dry wines from Quinta do Vesuvio and Quinta do Noval. Then it was the main event, a seated tasting of the 2016 VP’s which was led by leading members of each company. Then a brief break and another seated tutored tasting of the older Ports the respective Houses brought along to show how they age. After that was done, the last go was again a self-guided go around of what was left of all the Ports.

It was refreshing to have these four companies present together as it made tasting a decent amount of young VP’s side-by-side, comparing different house styles, easy. However, it’s not easy getting four companies together for a tour like this so my hat goes off to them for pulling it off. Almost everything was presented in the seated tasting. However, several Ports were only on offer during the walk-around; Vesuvio’s Capela, Stone Terrace, Quinta de Roriz and Smith Woodhouse. As such my notes on these are quite sparse as it was hard to get a decent sized pour to get even a brief evaluation of them.

THE YEAR OVERALL:
I won’t get into detail as much has already been said here on the Forum about it and most reading this already know how it went anyways. The important part to remember is yields were WAY down. If you thought there wasn’t much 2011 released, there’s even less 2016. So I’d suggest you put your orders in early, as they will sell through rather quickly.

NOTES:
Presented in the order they were tasted. IMPORTANT PART… these are snap-shot tastings notes. I had about 5 minutes with each before we moved on to the next. As with any young VP they change, often changing drastically day by day. So what may not show well today, tomorrow could be the star of the line up and vice versa. As such there is a range of scores I’ll use. But hopefully I can give you all a decent sense of where each falls.

2016 Cockburn’s Vintage Port
Very tannic and tight, plenty of pepper spice. Has the most weight and complexity of any recent Cockburn’s I’ve had. After a lot of hard work restoring this House’s reputation, the Symington’s are almost there.
92-94 Points

2016 Croft Vintage Port
The nose on this was downright weird, full of passion fruit. The palate also had a touch of it as well, but thankfully far less. Full of dark stone fruits but tannins weren’t there. This didn’t seem to be showing so well at the moment. David Guimareans said that unique smell and taste was a result of the very old mixed vine plantings at Quinta da Roeda, which make up a sizeable portion of the Port. It was interesting to later taste the Quinta da Romaneira which also showed it.
89-91

2016 Dow’s Vintage Port
Bold violets, chocolate, soft textured dark fruits, spices came on the back end along with a big wave of tannins and acidity. This showed a bit off-dry with a wonderfully long finish.
93-95 Points

2016 Fonseca Vintage Port
Dark chocolate and spicy fruit. Much sweeter than the Dow’s that preceded it. Massive tannins and a wonderful lushness of fruit with some cloves on the very long dusty tannic finish.
94-96 points

2016 Graham’s Vintage Port
I was immediately struck by how big this was. Bold fruit, great acidity, big dusty tannins, minerality but still retaining lovely freshness. The extra long complex finish capped on what is a fantastic VP. It tied for 2nd place as my favorite of these young Ports in this tasting.
95-97+ Points

2016 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port
I was able to try this twice, once at the walk around and at the seated, so this is a combination of those two notes. It also highlights why a tiny sample doesn’t yield the same result as a proper glass. The first glass showed rich fruit, awesome tannins, and a long finish. But it lacked the overall complexity the later notes showed. I was at 93-95 Points. The second glass at the seated tasting showed far more complexity, some tobacco notes, a more off-dry sensation, a touch of stems (I forgot to ask if there was stem inclusion in this) and an amazingly long finish. A wonderful Port that will outlive me by a long margin.
94-96 Points

2016 Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port
Trivia for us Port Nerds first. Tinta Cao makes up about 20% of the Nacional Vineyard. I also got to try this twice and it also highlights why a proper glass makes a difference. The first showed similar to the regular Noval with just a bit more tannins, less spices, but good acidity. I gave it 94-96 points. The seated tasting this showed much darker fruit than the regular bottling, mocha, very dusty tannins, amazing acidity, licorice, and cigar notes on the back palate. The incredibly long finish wrapped up a fantastic VP. This tied with Graham’s as my 2nd favorite of the night.
95-97+ Points

2016 Quinta da Romaneira Vintage Port
When Mr. Seely took over the property in 2004 there was only about 36 hectares of usable vines out of a 400 hectare property. The others were so badly neglected they weren’t usable. With replanting they are now up to 86 hectares of vines. However, only the old original 36 are used in this blend. It also showed that passion fruit and herbal nose that the Croft did which was quite interesting given that both use very old mixed field blend grapes. Chocolate, herbal, slightly sweeter than some others, moderate tannins but good minerality. A medium long finish rounded out an enjoyable Port. It has been a lot of work to get this property back in shape and the work is showing.
90-92 Points

2016 Taylor’s Vintage Port
This also had some of that old mixed vine wildness on the nose. Softly textured at first that built with a little air. Tannins came quite late along with dense stone fruits. This had the complexity but needed a lot of coaxing to come out and play otherwise. I would like to try this again sometime soon as I don’t think it was showing it’s best today.
92-94+ Points

2016 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port
About 1,200 cases. This made up only 2 ½ % of total production from the Quinta. Still a touch tanky on the nose. The palate was full of rich bold layered and textured fruit, spices, minerality, menthol, plenty of acidity, and a long lingering finish. This was very close to also tying for 2nd place.
94-96+ Points

2016 Warre’s Vintage Port
I love this House’s style. However, to say I was a bit apprehensive to taste this at the end was an understatement. Typically being a more elegant styled Port it often gets unfairly overshadowed by other’s which show more bolder fruit. Boy, how I was wrong today. Fantastic fresh violets and fruit on the nose. Wow! This hit me like a ton of bricks from the first sip. Massive fruit and tannins, spices, tobacco, tea, tons of acidity, minerality, fantastic grip, resin and that was before we got to the amazingly long rich finish. This was a stunner and showed at the top of its game at this tasting. I see why it was put at the end of the tasting. This left me speechless!
97-98+ Points


OTHER 2016 PORTS:
As I mentioned these were tiny pours at the walk around tasting. As such I really couldn’t get a good read on them and I won’t put scores as a result. I do hope I can try these again soon and get a proper note posted, which they deserve.

2016 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port
Medium bodied, good fruit and moderate tannins.

2016 Quinta do Vesuvio Capela Vintage Port
Tannic and full bodied. Loved the acidity in this. Good long finish

2016 Graham’s Stone Terrace Vintage Port
Nice spices, dark fruit, herbs and chocolate. Solid tannins and long gripy finish



OVERALL IMPRESSION:
Anyone who says 2016 shouldn’t have been declared is flat out wrong. There are some amazing Ports produced, as this tasting shows. But it was a vintage that required nerves of steel and patience…and being able to keep workers on payroll while waiting out the grapes. There is no doubt the debate will rage for years about 2015 vs. 2016. I firmly believe 2016 will be the better overall year in the end. Time will tell if I’m right or wrong.



THE OLDER PORTS:
Also listed in the order tasted. Due to time constraints we tasted through these quite quickly. I saved some for after and got to revisit some as well. These were decanted about 3 hours prior from what I was told. So again, take the scores with a little grain of salt as it was a snap shot tasting of these as well. My point of posting these is more to capture the overall point of where they are right now in their evolution and less of an actual number.

2007 Fonseca Vintage Port
Aromatic nose just showing some secondary notes. A touch spirity (decanting issue most likely), very tannic still, but young fruit. Still posses that awesome structure and will make a wonderful old Port with time.
93-95 points

2003 Croft Vintage Port
This baby was closed up tighter than a drum. It showed soft texture, spirit, and tannins. Very little fruit. I have always loved this, it was a favorite from the vintage, and it is clearly entered that teenage phase. Leave this alone for a few more years.
Not Rated

2000 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port
The color is still holding very nicely. Baked plums and leather on the nose. The palate is just now starting to show a little of those secondary characteristics. There isn’t much change from when it was younger. Still a beast of a Port, full of youthful tannins, fruit, acidity, and complexity. There is a reason I own more of this than any other 2000 VP. If you don’t own any get it now!
95-97 Points

1997 Warre’s Vintage Port
Picking didn’t start until September 29th. Slight bricking now showing in the color. A touch medicinal on the nose. However, the palate showed lovely hints of cedar, baked plums, tobacco leaf, wild fennel, eucalyptus, and a long lingering finish. A very nice VP from a vintage that doesn’t get much love.
93-94 Points

1994 Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port
Just a hint of bricking on the color. Spicy leather nose. Still mostly youthful on the palate but there is some secondary notes just barely poking through. The first hint of secondary notes I’ve seen in this. Amazinly fresh but big bodied fruit, chocolate, tannins, and that super long lingering finish.
96-97+ Points

1985 Taylor’s Vintage Port
A pale ruby color with licorice and cigar box on the nose. Mostly mature on the palate with tobacco, cedar, raspberries, a touch of spirit, and a medium finish. This has always showed as a middle of the road, early maturing VP. This bottle however was the best showing of it I’ve had in memory.
92 Points

1983 Graham’s Vintage Port
I believe this came from a magnum or larger based on the cork I saw, but I wasn’t able to confirm. Picking started on October 3rd, quite late! Still a dark ruby in color. The nose was stewed and off. Stewed fruit with hints of V.A., still tannic. I’ve had this a lot and something wasn’t right with this bottle.
Not Rated

1980 Dow’s Vintage Port
The color of this is amazingly dark still, like a VP 20 years younger. Still youthful plums on the nose. The palate is also still showing young fruit, plenty of tannins and acidity, lots of complexity. This shows like a VP far younger than what it is. Just a fantastic showing of this.
96-97 Points


OTHER PART 2:
If you’re still reading there were a couple of dry wines on offer, and a Fonseca White Port which I didn’t try since I’ve had it tons of time.


2015 Quinta do Vesuvio Douro DOC
Fresh, complex, allspice, long finish. Loved this wine.

2015 Quinta do Noval Douro DOC
Tight fruit, more old school styled which I loved. A touch of green stems, pepper. Also loved this one and wish I could have spent more time enjoying it.

[Eric Ifune]

Oh, If I were only a few decades younger!

[Rune EG]

Thanks Andy for writing so much of so many ports so quickly after the event.
Very interesting reading.

Otherwise I join in with Eric Ifune and comment about more decades!!

[Frederick Blais]

Great post! I'm happy you liked the Warre's so much, it is my favorite from Symington's normally, I guess I'll have to buy some!

Have we overlooked the 1980's? Are they making a comeback? I never had such a good Dow's but recently I had an amazing 1980 Warre's blind and I thought it was Taylor's 1970, it was that good!

[Chris G]

great post Andy, thanks very much.
I look forward to trying them in London.
The Dow 80 is still amazingly dark and The last bottle I had was still rather closed!

[Andy Velebil]

Great post! I'm happy you liked the Warre's so much, it is my favorite from Symington's normally, I guess I'll have to buy some!

Have we overlooked the 1980's? Are they making a comeback? I never had such a good Dow's but recently I had an amazing 1980 Warre's blind and I thought it was Taylor's 1970, it was that good!

The Sym's did really well in the 1980's so their's are generally much better than many others. Don't think we've overlooked them just many were, rightfully, consumed younger.

[Eric Menchen]

The 1980 Dow and Warres are both outstanding; and unfortunately, rare in my parts. I wish I could get them. And while I've agreed with Andy that Warres is typically a more elegantly styled Port, the 1980 doesn't fit that mold, and I'm not so sure about the 1994 either. I might have to rethink this generalization.

[Thomas V]

Awesome you got the chance to taste these young ports comparative and thanks for the notes.

So which of these ports will you buy cases of when factoring in their prices into the equation as well? I guess the Warre's and Graham's for sure since they are normally well priced.

In Denmark the importers keep harping on the low quantities and the "tight" allocations and they will sell out very quick. The prices I have seen so far are also definitely a notch higher than previous VP years.

I've gotten a excellent quote on a six pack of the Taylor's at 64$, so I am going to pick that up since my cellar stats showed me I have close to very little from Taylor's. (I have the age to watch these babies grow at 37 years of age). Why didn't you think it was showing at its best the day in question?

Cheers

[Andy Velebil]

I've gotten a excellent quote on a six pack of the Taylor's at 64$, so I am going to pick that up since my cellar stats showed me I have close to very little from Taylor's. (I have the age to watch these babies grow at 37 years of age). Why didn't you think it was showing at its best the day in question?

Cheers

I've had this producer's very young VP's many times in the past and this showed much tighter fruit and wasn't giving up as much on the palate as it normally does. Based on my experience tasting very young VP's and this particular producer in the past, this appeared to be a simple case of a cranky young Port not showing at it's best on this particular day. That happens a lot with such young VP and why I put that disclaimer in there about how they can change from day to day. I am quite sure it will be at the high end of my score range, and probably exceed it, on a good showing day.

[Glenn E.]

Wish I'd known about it! But even if I had, I was in Colorado for my brother's PhD graduation so I'd have still missed it. Sounds like a fabulous tasting!

Are they doing any more in the US?

[Andy Velebil]

I had the chance to spend 3 days evaluating the Smith Woodhouse and Quinta de Roriz VP's recently. I've put on their TN's in the TN Forum and below for ease of reference.

2016 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port:
I had the opportunity to spend 3 days tasting this, and a 2016 Quinta de Roriz, cask sample. The color of this was consistently darker than the Quinta de Roriz. The nose stayed very tight over the course of tasting this, only giving up a more blueberry component. Excellent depth, lush berries, menthol, silky chocolate, plenty of tannics and acidity and fantastic structure that melds it all together with a long finish. This really opened up at the end of day 2 and continued to reach it's best on day 3. This is a fantastic Vintage Port and one that will age along with other tops of the vintage.
94-95 Points

2016 Quinta de Roriz Vintage Port:
I had the opportunity to spend 3 days tasting this, and a 2016 Smith Woodhouse, cask sample. Slightly lighter in color. Very fragrant scents of violet, plum spices and anise. Throughout the first two days this showed very light weight, moderate tannins, Esteva, and lack of complexity. I figured this was just going to be a nice early drinker. On day 3 this made a huge turn around. Far more depth, structure, the tannins and dark berry fruit came out, the finish lengthened and this blossomed into a lovely young Vintage Port. Other than this turning into a very nice drink, a great example of how such a young VP can change over the course of a few days.
91-92 Points