Show the Bones: TN: 2011 Marcel Deiss Altenberg de Bergheim (France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

[John Trombley]

With Coravin (cork finished), Riedel Riesling, and Le Taster. 2011 Marcel Deiss Altenberg de Bergheim (France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru), remembering the fight that this most genuine of Alsatian winemakers had to put up when a modern-style 'grand cru' system was installed. This incredible series of field blends are perhaps the most successful demonstration of the concept of terroir in the world, although of course by M. Deiss's definition of it. This wine lifts itself clear outside categories in any case, being so typical as to be atypical of today's Alsatian wine. Sec, $78/750 ml. 12 pabv. Warm gold color; little interaction with the glass inside. Gentlest white peach, slight walnut note, aged raw Puer'h tea. A sweeter wine than expected, yet still in balance with the juicy bright acids; dense midpalate, umami, one of those integrated wine experiences that seems to proceed smoothly from eye to stomach without a hitch--sometimes an old-vines wine will do this well made and well cellared. Aside from typicity (a matter of definition anyway), this must be the very best wine in its category that I've ever tasted. 96/100. Drink now-2030.

With salmon, Key West shrimp, mussels, and crab in a Mediterranean-style fumet broth. Very fine match.

This wine belongs on the table with the greatest of white Burgundy, and yet getting the Burgundy would bankrupt you. Not so this Deiss wine.