ADRIAN BRIDGE

Join in on discussions with winemakers and other personalities in the Port, Madeira and Douro Wine trades.

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Adrian Bridge
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Location: Porto

Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Adrian Bridge »

Roy Hersh wrote: Wed Dec 04, 2019 3:11 am Dear Adrian,

Two years ago, regulations loosened and the Duriense grape growers were no longer restricted from charging "whatever the market would bear" for grapes to be used for Port production; whereas in the past the pricing was far more controlled.

a. Does this also apply to Douro still wines?

b. The increase in the cost of grapes must add to the overall production costs of Port, how much does this translate into per bottle increases in cost?

c. In the view of the Port trade, was this a healthy dynamic for grape growers or will it ultimately hurt them in the long run?
Dear Roy

I am not sure I recognise your first point. Grape growers have always been free to charge what they want for grapes - Portugal my be socialist but it is not a controlled economy. However, in a region where the supply of grapes has often out stripped demand then people will clearly practice the market price. The 'Beneficio', the amount of the grapes any farmer can convert into Port, has been in place since the 1930s and is long over due for change.

I think you are probably referring to the increase in the price of grapes in the 2018 harvest which happened because of low yields caused by disease. As the amount of grapes was below the demand prices rose. This did not impact Port because the Port industry has always purchased its grapes at a price higher than the cost of production. The table wine industry had to pay more to secure grapes and, as a result this changed the demand picture. Some DOP Douro table wine producers said that they could not make a profit if grape prices were above Euro 450 per pipe. As cost of production is at least Euro 650 per pipe (according to Casa do Douro studies) then this was an admission that without subsidy, some DOP wines are not viable. The higher costs translated to higher selling prices of bottled wine into the market and that is why you are seeing an standard DOP Douro table wine sales volume down 13.5% on the annual moving average to end of October 2019. Value is down 8.5%.

Yes, grapes are the largest component cost of Port but spirit has a part to play and that has dropped in recent years.

The biggest cost is labour and the recent proposal to increase the minimum wage from Euro 600 to Euro 630 per month (up 5.83%) will have a direct impact on farmers margins.

Finally, it is healthy if farmers make a profit and can reinvest in the Douro. We are seeing too many abandoned vines which are incubators for disease; disease exacerbated by climate change. Such disease impacts all their neighbours and was a main source of the problems of a small harvest in 2018.

Kind regards
Adrian
Adrian Bridge Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
Adrian Bridge
Posts: 52
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Location: Porto

Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Adrian Bridge »

Roy Hersh wrote: Wed Dec 04, 2019 3:21 am Dear Adrian,


With the lowering of the levels of "Lei do Terço" by the IVDP regulation for a new company, which in the past needed stocks of 150,000 liters of Port in order to enter the Port trade; (the new level is now 75,000 liters).

How do you view this change for new companies and the Port trade overall?
Dear Roy

I have always seen this as a red herring. Any company could have sold without needing stock as there is an excess of shipping capacity. We bottle for many companies, some of whom have no stock but happily sell Port.

Its impact will be that a few smaller farms will now sell a Port when they did not before. With the one third law they can sell up to 25,000 liters or 2,777 cases. This will impact niches.

Kind regards, Adrian
Adrian Bridge Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
Adrian Bridge
Posts: 52
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Location: Porto

Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Adrian Bridge »

Al B. wrote: Wed Dec 04, 2019 6:21 am Dear Adrian,

My wife and I are visiting Oporto for São João and I was hoping against hope that we might have been able to be one of the first visitors to the World of Wine.

Oh well, I guess I'll just have to head back in September. Life can be unfair.

But to whet the appetite, could you say a little more about what will be in Phases 1 and 3 please?

Thanks,

Alex
Dear Alex

I do hope that phase 3 will be open by Sao Joao. This is the phase that deals with pairings of Port, particularly with chocolate.

In phase 1 we have the Wine Experience, Cork Experience, PRATA (Porto Region Across The Ages) and The Bridge Collection - 8,000 years of drinking. We also have the wine school, cooking school and shops. There are 6 restaurants and a wine bar. It is on the main square that we have built.
We also have underground parking for 200 cars.

I will try to see with Roy how we can post a photo of the current situation.

Kind regards, Adrian
Adrian Bridge Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
A Beykovsky
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Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by A Beykovsky »

Dear Adrian:
It was a pleasure to meet you during my recent port wine tour, thanks for being such a gracious host. First and foremost Kudos to all the wine producers. I wish to congratulate an encourage you to keep up the good work and understand that what you do is more labour of love rather than riches. Few will understand how much sweat, tears, anguish, anxiety, heartbreak and blood goes into your work. I wish readers to appreciate that.

I recently received my TF VP 2017, nice case, thanks. I noticed the bottles did not have the usual paper stamp over the cork, is this something new?
Second question is related to my beginner status. Sometimes I have difficulty telling between a LBV and VP side to side, I believe the VP has more of a floral statement. Am I crazy? Any pearls?
When do you plan on visiting Milwaukee Wisconsin? I would love to start a Port lovers club here and you would be our best kick off event. I will gladly host you. Mi casa es su casa.

Best regards,

Andrew.
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Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Miguel Simoes »

Adrian Bridge wrote: Wed Dec 04, 2019 6:38 am If I was buying some cases to have wines to celebrate an anniversary (birth of child, marriage etc.) I would probably buy a mix of sizes.
Dear Adrian,
Are you considering the introdution of a "futures" type product that would allow people to buy these on the year of their celebratory event? If i recall correctly at least one producer has such a program.
Best regards,
Miguel
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Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Steen Rasmussen »

Dear Mr. Bridge.

First of all thank you for your kind Taylor Fladgate Christmas card :-)

During the years I have bought a handful of your delicious Taylor's Atlantic Port Old Tawny (please see the enclosed picture) - probably bottled in the 1970'ies. Can you please tell me a little bit about this Port (e.g.) how old was the blend)?
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Al B.
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Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Al B. »

Adrian

When I was last in the Yeatman I spent a couple of hours looking at your glass collection in the cabinets next to Dick’s Bar. I am a history nut (when I can find the time) and found it extremely interesting to look at.

What first started you collecting glasses from the past and which piece gave you the most fun to acquire?

Thanks

Alex
Adrian Bridge
Posts: 52
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Location: Porto

Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Adrian Bridge »

A Beykovsky wrote: Wed Dec 04, 2019 8:25 am Dear Adrian:
It was a pleasure to meet you during my recent port wine tour, thanks for being such a gracious host. First and foremost Kudos to all the wine producers. I wish to congratulate an encourage you to keep up the good work and understand that what you do is more labour of love rather than riches. Few will understand how much sweat, tears, anguish, anxiety, heartbreak and blood goes into your work. I wish readers to appreciate that.

I recently received my TF VP 2017, nice case, thanks. I noticed the bottles did not have the usual paper stamp over the cork, is this something new?
Second question is related to my beginner status. Sometimes I have difficulty telling between a LBV and VP side to side, I believe the VP has more of a floral statement. Am I crazy? Any pearls?
When do you plan on visiting Milwaukee Wisconsin? I would love to start a Port lovers club here and you would be our best kick off event. I will gladly host you. Mi casa es su casa.

Best regards,

Andrew.
Dear Andrew
Thanks for the question and congratulations on the delivery.
The 'selo de garantia' can now be replaced by a stamp that is on the back of the bottle. This was an alignment of Port with table wine which has been able to use the stamp on the back label for some time. We fought for this alignment of rules as our company strongly believes that all the different wines produced in the Douro valley should have an alignment of rules.
LBV and Vintage Port. We always think of vintage as having more weight, more 'mouth feel' by which we mean density of flavour and depth of character. If is not about floral or other specific flavours. I think that it takes time to get this and I would encourage you to taste more.

Best wishes, Adrian
Adrian Bridge Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
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Andy Velebil
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Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Andy Velebil »

Adrian has sent me pictures of the World of Wine project to upload
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Andy Velebil Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used. William Shakespeare http://www.fortheloveofport.com
Adrian Bridge
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Location: Porto

Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Adrian Bridge »

Al B. wrote: Wed Dec 04, 2019 2:04 pm Adrian

When I was last in the Yeatman I spent a couple of hours looking at your glass collection in the cabinets next to Dick’s Bar. I am a history nut (when I can find the time) and found it extremely interesting to look at.

What first started you collecting glasses from the past and which piece gave you the most fun to acquire?

Thanks

Alex
Dear Alex
Thanks for this one. I started by buying some Roman glass as I thought it would be fun to serve Port in Roman glasses at dinner parties. It was a disaster as each time I did it there was paralysis at the table rather than conversation as everyone was worried they would break the glass. Of course that meant that they did not hold them properly and did increase the risk of dropping them.
I try to get pieces that have a story (the glasses used to toast the victory at Waterloo by the British Prime Minister), of famous people (Bronze Kylix from Alexander The Great) or just interesting such as the Mughal Emperor's jade vessel used to drink wine mixed with opium in the 1680s.
The museum opens in July with about 1,500 pieces (The Yeatman has 80 of them) and it now spans more that 8,000 years as I have obtained a Neolithic Japanese Jamon piece that could well be 8,000 to 10,000 BCE. !
Most fun (?) would imply I have stopped collecting and I still have to attend to an offer of some Irish silver from 1780s this evening!
Best wishes
Adrian
Adrian Bridge Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
Adrian Bridge
Posts: 52
Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2006 2:37 am
Location: Porto

Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Adrian Bridge »

Steen Rasmussen wrote: Wed Dec 04, 2019 11:45 am Dear Mr. Bridge.

First of all thank you for your kind Taylor Fladgate Christmas card :-)

During the years I have bought a handful of your delicious Taylor's Atlantic Port Old Tawny (please see the enclosed picture) - probably bottled in the 1970'ies. Can you please tell me a little bit about this Port (e.g.) how old was the blend)?
Dear Steen
Glad you got the card - hope I sent one to other FTLOP readers.
Atlantic does come for the 1970s when people were sorting out their Port ranges and still had some very interesting labels left over.
It was also before Aged Tawny got sorted into 10,20, 30 and 40 year old products. I think that Atlantic was not that old - by memory Rover was older but I will have to look this up and get back to you.
Best wishes, Adrian
Adrian Bridge Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
Adrian Bridge
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Location: Porto

Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Adrian Bridge »

Miguel Simoes wrote: Wed Dec 04, 2019 9:35 am
Adrian Bridge wrote: Wed Dec 04, 2019 6:38 am If I was buying some cases to have wines to celebrate an anniversary (birth of child, marriage etc.) I would probably buy a mix of sizes.
Dear Adrian,
Are you considering the introdution of a "futures" type product that would allow people to buy these on the year of their celebratory event? If i recall correctly at least one producer has such a program.
Best regards,
Miguel
Dear Miguel
We do not have a program but it is a thought. At the moment the problem is certainly that some customers would like to buy but do not know if we will declare a vintage or not. Waiting to the second year can mean it is too late for a gift. It is made tricky because we do not make vintage every year. I would be interested in feed back on this one.
Best wishes
Adrian
Adrian Bridge Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
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Roy Hersh
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Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Roy Hersh »

Dear Adrian,


Thank you for the many responses so far, it has been wonderful for all of us to learn during the first half of your time with us. Also, our sincere thanks for the photos of WoW! For those of us with a missed opportunity to see it in person with you due to the downpour in September and an ill member of our group; I will alert all from our group to come see these photos and thanks to Andy for getting them posted!

One thing I do not believe I've ever asked you about, is if you would share the names/vintages of some of the most memorable Ports you have consumed over the many years you've been a Port lover?

Roy
Ambition driven by passion, rather than money, is as strong an elixir as is Port. http://www.fortheloveofport.com
Adrian Bridge
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Location: Porto

Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Adrian Bridge »

Roy Hersh wrote: Thu Dec 05, 2019 12:49 am Dear Adrian,


Thank you for the many responses so far, it has been wonderful for all of us to learn during the first half of your time with us. Also, our sincere thanks for the photos of WoW! For those of us with a missed opportunity to see it in person with you due to the downpour in September and an ill member of our group; I will alert all from our group to come see these photos and thanks to Andy for getting them posted!

One thing I do not believe I've ever asked you about, is if you would share the names/vintages of some of the most memorable Ports you have consumed over the many years you've been a Port lover?

Roy
Dear Roy

You are asking me to think hard as I have had many great Ports over the years. My first memory beyond having the odd glass at home was a visit with my school friend David Sandeman to see his brothers at the office in London in 1976. We arrived early and so were told to kick our heels in the tasting room. Understandably two 13 year old boys did not need a second invitation and we tried a great range. However, lunch in London in the 1970s meant a trip to the pub and several pints of beer - not a great chaser and certainly beyond the capacity of two young lads.

However, my first trip to the Douro was in the summer and harvest of 1982. I do not think anyone every forgets their first chilled tawny sipped in the heat of a Douro evening. In those days it was always OPW which was a 30 year old dryer blend that stood for Oporto Partners' Wine but was fondly known as Old Piss and Wind.

One wine that stands out was an 1847 Ferreira that I had in 1998 at a dinner at The Factory House where I was hosting a group. We served it before dinner so that food flavours would not distract and what struck me hard was how delicate yet enjoyable the wine was. Pale strawberry in colour, gentle in its caress and rich in delivery. I expected to be simply ticking a box that I had tasted very old vintage and yet I was both entranced and seduced at the same time by the wine.

The one I have followed most is Taylor's 1963. I my birth year and that of my wife so we get to taste it regularly. I have been following that wine for over 40 years and it is always enjoyable. I managed to get 10 cases from a Cambridge College back in 1994 so I am fortunate to still have plenty but also to be able to taste ones that were UK bottled (and aged for 29 years in Cambridge) as well as Portuguese bottling stored always in our cellars in Gaia.

Best wishes
Adrian
Adrian Bridge Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
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Andy Velebil
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Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Andy Velebil »

Adrian,

My question is about the dreaded screw cap (joking about the dreaded part). While it's probably safe to say they won't be making a mainstream debut with VP anytime soon, has TFP done any longer term experiments with screw caps and VP? If so, how have the results been compared to the same vintage being bottled under cork (Various types) or any other closure your company may have experimented with?

And thank you thus far, some very enlightening answers!
Andy Velebil Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used. William Shakespeare http://www.fortheloveofport.com
Adrian Bridge
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Location: Porto

Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Adrian Bridge »

Andy Velebil wrote: Thu Dec 05, 2019 2:40 am Adrian,

My question is about the dreaded screw cap (joking about the dreaded part). While it's probably safe to say they won't be making a mainstream debut with VP anytime soon, has TFP done any longer term experiments with screw caps and VP? If so, how have the results been compared to the same vintage being bottled under cork (Various types) or any other closure your company may have experimented with?

And thank you thus far, some very enlightening answers!
Dear Andy

We have not done experiments with Vintage Port and screw caps. We did do some with 'plastic' corks. We prefer natural cork and we are very close to the suppliers. We carefully quality control our corks and we pay top price for top quality.

I think that screw caps might well get used in future for Ruby level if that either a) coveys a price advantage or b) opens up new points of distribution. Regarding a) this will always be at the margin as the cost of the equipment needs to be offset by the savings compared to cork. With b) we know that airlines prefer screw cap (and do not like corkscrews) but so do festivals etc. However, the standard T top stopper cork can be easily opened by hand so I do not think that this is valid.

The final point is quality. If the T top stopper corks decline in quality, and there are higher incidences of 'corked Port', this could be a factor to drive change but again I think that is unlikely as the quality of cork is improving and there are alternative stopper cork solutions.

However, we do need screw caps for 5ml, 10ml, 18.75 ml and, possibly, half bottled.

Kind regards
Adrian
Adrian Bridge Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
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Stewart T.
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Changing Regulations

Post by Stewart T. »

Hi Adrian -

Great to see you here, and thanks for taking the time to answer some questions from the FTLOP crowd!

I know that you and others in the trade have been instrumental in driving changes in regulations - large format bottles, sealos, etc.

What regulations would you like to see changed next for the trade, and why?
Stewart T. (Admin) [email protected]
Adrian Bridge
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Re: Changing Regulations

Post by Adrian Bridge »

Stewart T. wrote: Thu Dec 05, 2019 12:41 pm Hi Adrian -

Great to see you here, and thanks for taking the time to answer some questions from the FTLOP crowd!

I know that you and others in the trade have been instrumental in driving changes in regulations - large format bottles, sealos, etc.

What regulations would you like to see changed next for the trade, and why?
Dear Stewart

I have been making the case for many years for the removal of Beneficio.
This is a system that was put in place in the 1930s under the idea of the Estadio Novo and a controlling central government. All over the world this happened and all over the world this State intervention has been rolled back. Not in the Douro because the system is subsidising table wine at the cost of Port.
I see no reason why we can own a property like Quinta de Vargellas and not be able to make the grapes into what we want. We can make 50% into Port and the rest to table wine. We are Port experts.
The reason is so that everyone can make some Port regardless of quality of grapes.
The reality is that the average yield in the Douro across the entire valley is around 35 Hl per Ha. Yet, farmers can declare 55 Hl per Ha. What does this mean? It means that they can make 'Port' on paper and table wine with their grapes. This has consistently caused a subsidy from Port to table wine.
We have weakened a globally known, unique product to promote a table wine - wine that is produced from the most expensive grapes in the Iberian Peninsular. This is not rational but many companies have no desire to see change (because it makes them money) and I fear they will only do so when it is too late. Douro farmers are in a desperate state with rising costs and the only buyer of their grapes which gives them profit is Port - an industry that is shrinking in volume due to lack of investment in creating new consumers.
Something will need to give. At the moment it is the viability of Douro farms and with that both Port and DOP Douro table wine will be impacted.
Make no mistake Port will continue to exist because people like us will continue to make it. My sadness is that the Beneficio system is holding back the potential of the Douro valley. A free market, that paid farmers the best price for the best grapes, would see both Port and table wine thrive. At the moment they are restricted. The global market is for higher quality and the Douro has the capacity to reach sublime limits but it needs to be free of out of date regulation to achieve this.

Kind regards (and hopefully not too poetical)
Adrian
Adrian Bridge Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
Adrian Bridge
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Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Adrian Bridge »

I should probably have placed a 'BAND WAGON' alert before my reply to Stewart. :)
Adrian Bridge Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal
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Andy Velebil
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Re: ADRIAN BRIDGE

Post by Andy Velebil »

Dear Adrian,

I know you are quite active in regards to climate change issues but I am not sure most readers are aware how much TFP has done. Can you tell us what things your company (bottling facilities, Quinta's, etc) has done already to become more "Green"? Such as solar, water recycling/treatment, etc. What green projects are you currently looking at or considering for the future for these properties?
Andy Velebil Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used. William Shakespeare http://www.fortheloveofport.com
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