For The Love Of Port

SAMMAMISH PORT CLUB - Sammamish, Washington (8/17/2019)

• NV Sandeman Madeira Fine Rich - Portugal, Madeira
  Amber orange in color. Clear. Mahogany and wood notes on the nose with a bit of oxidation. Incredibly unctuous with some chocolate notes. Some oxidized notes on the finish with date on the very long finish. Baby aspirin? (91 pts.)
• NV S. Leonardo Porto 10 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Amber orange in color. Clear. Some hints of petrol, some vanilla extract. Thick, unctuous mouthfeel with some light spice, honey, and bouillon cube. Very long, unctuous finish. (92 pts.)
• NV Sandeman Porto 20 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Bottled in 2016. Clear, amber-orange in color. Slightly subdued nose. Some rose petal notes. Apricot, orange peel. Unctuous, bright acidity. Long finish with good acidity and sweetness. (92 pts.)
• 1992 J.H. Andresen Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Slightly cloudy, brown-orange in color. Vegetal/citrus notes with some acetone. Unctuous mouthfeel. Cola, chocolate on the finish with a touch of bitterness. (89 pts.)
• NV Agri-Roncão Porto DR - 30 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Bottled in 2017. Christmas spice. Really well balanced with honey and a touch of cinnamon on the nose. Unctuous mouthfeel with a long finish and good acidity. (94 pts.)
• NV S. Leonardo Porto 30 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Bottled 2017, Cocoa powder and some spirit on the nose. A touch of maple on the palate. Very long finish, with a slight touch of oxidation. (91 pts.)
• 1985 Dalva Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
  Note of light cinnamon, caramel, and some orange spice. Great salinity and acidity on the palate. Very long finish with orange peel, great acidity, and balance. (93 pts.)

So what do you mean by unctuous in all these wines? Oily, greasy? Creamy? Strong?

Yes, likely the most used word in my tasting notes LOL!

You are correct that it normally means something greasy, oily or soapy in terms of texture, but in my tasting notes it is a good thing and refers to a pleasant, coating, viscous mouthfeel.

Your question made me start to wonder if the word might be confusing to others reading my TNs, so a quick google search found the following on Wine Spectator from May 2019:

Dear Dr. Vinny,
What does the word “unctuous” mean in a wine tasting note?
—Peter, Dallas, Texas

Dear Peter,
Outside of wine, the word “unctuous” describes something oily or greasy in terms of texture. In wine, it’s mostly a positive term. It refers to a wine with a rich texture—something lush, with some viscosity. I most often see it describing dessert wines. Of course, it depends on the context of how the word is used. An unctuous wine without any acidity to balance it out could seem heavy or cloying.
—Dr. Vinny

But I will start to think about using other words instead of unctuous as I clearly over-use it in my tasting notes :)

Rich, viscous, lush, those would all probably be better descriptors for what I mean.

Thanks for the reply. When I first read of it, I was thinking more of strong, like with gumption. But then after the third or fourth note, I decided to look it up.