1907 Vintage Madeira's (Blandy, Justino's, D' Oliveiras)
Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 10:19 am
I promise to try harder to post tasting notes:
1907 Vintage Bual – Blandy (no selo de garantia, so old bottling)
Bright tawny colour with olive rim.
Nose typically sweet with some orange notes, followed by caramel – hint of lemon toffee;
Palate notable for perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, seemed to oscillate between the two, followed by an orange marmalade finish. Medium long finish but the only criticism is that it hasn’t yet developed the full complexity of age. Maybe in another 50 years……. (except this was my last bottle).
This was served with a game/terrine platter, consisting of
Wild Game & Berkshire Pork hazelnut terrine
Wild duck breast
Foie-Gras Cuit Sous-Vide
Game sausage
Boudin Noir
Toasted baguette.
The match was made in heaven – the chef was astounded – he couldn’t imagine anything else matching as well as this.
My opinion: - the 1907 Bual is possibly the ‘perfect’ wine to display what Madeira is all about. It shows all the characteristics that make Madeira what it is. I can’t think of a better example to show why this Board exists. Unfortunately now retails for about $800!!!!!!!!!! However a few attendees felt that the (relative) lack of complexity was a detriment – just too young.
1907 Vintage Malvazia – JB (reasonably sure this is Barros; no selo de garantia)
Slight aside, the previous wine and this one had deposited nearly all their sediment as a film on the bottle. Both were much lighter (in appearance) than the more recently bottled examples. However, I put that down to time spent in glass (bulk) before bottling, rather than just bottle age, as both bottles were obviously of relatively modern production.
Light tawny colour with a thinner edge – hint of lime colour in rim, rather than olive.
Nose a little subdued, with pronounced chestnuts and a hint of lemon.
Immediate alcohol on palate, followed by orange/tangerine flavours. Very acidic, but lacks the mouth feel usually experienced with malmseys. Certainly elegant and balanced with a long finish of essence of orange. Still has a long life ahead, although is more Bual than Malmsey in its structure. Put my remaining bottle back in the cellar (for 2032?)
1907 Vintage Malvazia Reserva – d’Oliveiras
Medium tawny/chestnut colour, colour flowing evenly through edge. Hint of yellow in rim.
Nose deeper with lemon and tangerine peel notes.
On palate, persistent orange peel. Much weightier in mouth and very concentrated. Some balancing acidity. Overall, the flavour, although deep, lacked some complexity. Recommend drinking now – don’t think this one will improve with more age and it shows typical Malmsey style now (incidentally scheduled to try this again next month).
Both the Malvazias were served at the end of the meal. The actual course was a Niagara Spy Apple Tart with Farm Apple Cider Ice Cream and Cinnamon. If I was to repeat, I’d add some nuts/dried fruits/caramel/citrus peel to pick up on these notes in the wines.
Nobody took up the 'soft' offer to attend, mentioned in my post below, trying to ascertain the origin of the JB wine. We finally filled the event only 3 days ahead - I think they'll all be back next year!
1907 Vintage Bual – Blandy (no selo de garantia, so old bottling)
Bright tawny colour with olive rim.
Nose typically sweet with some orange notes, followed by caramel – hint of lemon toffee;
Palate notable for perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, seemed to oscillate between the two, followed by an orange marmalade finish. Medium long finish but the only criticism is that it hasn’t yet developed the full complexity of age. Maybe in another 50 years……. (except this was my last bottle).
This was served with a game/terrine platter, consisting of
Wild Game & Berkshire Pork hazelnut terrine
Wild duck breast
Foie-Gras Cuit Sous-Vide
Game sausage
Boudin Noir
Toasted baguette.
The match was made in heaven – the chef was astounded – he couldn’t imagine anything else matching as well as this.
My opinion: - the 1907 Bual is possibly the ‘perfect’ wine to display what Madeira is all about. It shows all the characteristics that make Madeira what it is. I can’t think of a better example to show why this Board exists. Unfortunately now retails for about $800!!!!!!!!!! However a few attendees felt that the (relative) lack of complexity was a detriment – just too young.
1907 Vintage Malvazia – JB (reasonably sure this is Barros; no selo de garantia)
Slight aside, the previous wine and this one had deposited nearly all their sediment as a film on the bottle. Both were much lighter (in appearance) than the more recently bottled examples. However, I put that down to time spent in glass (bulk) before bottling, rather than just bottle age, as both bottles were obviously of relatively modern production.
Light tawny colour with a thinner edge – hint of lime colour in rim, rather than olive.
Nose a little subdued, with pronounced chestnuts and a hint of lemon.
Immediate alcohol on palate, followed by orange/tangerine flavours. Very acidic, but lacks the mouth feel usually experienced with malmseys. Certainly elegant and balanced with a long finish of essence of orange. Still has a long life ahead, although is more Bual than Malmsey in its structure. Put my remaining bottle back in the cellar (for 2032?)
1907 Vintage Malvazia Reserva – d’Oliveiras
Medium tawny/chestnut colour, colour flowing evenly through edge. Hint of yellow in rim.
Nose deeper with lemon and tangerine peel notes.
On palate, persistent orange peel. Much weightier in mouth and very concentrated. Some balancing acidity. Overall, the flavour, although deep, lacked some complexity. Recommend drinking now – don’t think this one will improve with more age and it shows typical Malmsey style now (incidentally scheduled to try this again next month).
Both the Malvazias were served at the end of the meal. The actual course was a Niagara Spy Apple Tart with Farm Apple Cider Ice Cream and Cinnamon. If I was to repeat, I’d add some nuts/dried fruits/caramel/citrus peel to pick up on these notes in the wines.
Nobody took up the 'soft' offer to attend, mentioned in my post below, trying to ascertain the origin of the JB wine. We finally filled the event only 3 days ahead - I think they'll all be back next year!