For The Love Of Port

What a fine property this is, divided betwixt the ‘Quinta’ and ‘Casa’ de Santa Eufemia by the current generation of an extended (and lovely) family. I have made three visits to the ‘Quinta’ side of the once-unified operation over the last three years, in part for the beauty of the property and the vistas therefrom, and in part in a somewhat frustrating effort to come to appreciate properly white ports.

Served lightly chilled, this 2018 bottling of Quinta de Santa Eufemia 30 Year Old White Port was – like those consumed before – most pleasant. Golden amber and clear in the glass, with a touch of lime on the rim, the nose presented notes of rose hip, brown sugar and almonds, with hints of orange and honeycomb. Honey and brown sugar dominated the palate on entry, giving way to a touch of orange zest, though I could discern nothing more on the mid-palate. At the back, spices were in evidence, these rolling seamlessly into a gentle bitters over the delightful and lengthy finish, during which the orange zest reappeared. The wine was of medium sweetness, perfectly balanced and without any unpleasant bite throughout.

Having consumed quite a wide variety of white ports over the last two years – from Andresen, Devesa, Heritage, Kopke, Santa Eufemia, Quevedo and no doubt others – I find, as I have written elsewhere, that they tend frequently (though not invariably) to stumble at the mid-palate. Or such is my impression, though I hasten to add that the perceived shortcoming may lie with my palate rather than the wines. Self-doubt aside, I do grasp that each producer of white ports has its style and not inconsiderable charms, not least Quinta de Santa Eufemia, whose 30 Year Old White Port I cannot help but recommend.

-91+ points

I've tasted many times the Casa and the Quinta. I've always felt the Casa was more interesting and I wish to visit it one day. Unfortunately the Casa seems more off the roads than the Quinta who have embrace the market.

I have been told that the mother wine of the Quinta 30 YO is the same wine that the Casa calls their "Special Reserve White" - i.e. the undocumented 1973 Colheita Branco. Because it is undocumented, they can't put the year on the label and sell it as a Colheita, so each half of the family found another way to use it.

Glenn E. wrote: ↑Thu Jan 07, 2021 11:56 am I have been told that the mother wine of the Quinta 30 YO is the same wine that the Casa calls their "Special Reserve White" - i.e. the undocumented 1973 Colheita Branco. Because it is undocumented, they can't put the year on the label and sell it as a Colheita, so each half of the family found another way to use it.

It is probably true Glenn, I know the stocks where split half and half. The story I heard was that Casa kept the wine identical to what they inherit while Quinta did more blends for the market.

The stocks were split in the separation. I’ve always found the Casa ports better than the Quinta ones. The Quinta ones I’ve had tended to have less complexity on the palate and were less interesting overall.

No idea why they are so different now, other than to speculate it’s because of how and what they’ve been either/or topped up/refreshed or blended with.