For The Love Of Port

Not to pick on them, but Quinta do Noval has just announced their new 50 Year Old Tawny Port.

Announcement here.

My concern is the price. Berry Brothers in London has it for £320.

If you can sell a 50 for that much, why on earth would you bother to bottle a 40? There are probably quite a few common component wines between the two, but you can sell a 50 for roughly double the price of a 40.

Back when the categories were 10-20-30-40, the price increases between categories were reasonably even. Some producers chose not to make a 30, and some others chose not to make a 40. But if you had the stocks to do so, most producers made both. There was demand, there was supply, and they didn't really compete with each other.

But the 50 seems to be different. Not only is there a huge leap in price, but it seems like a lot of producers must be using many of the same wines just with a slightly higher age mix. In a lot of cases you can taste it.

So is the 40 dead? Is everyone going to (slowly start to) follow DR and stop making 40s in favor of 10-20-30-50?

40s are not dead, they just smell funny. (Paraphrasing FZ!)

In all seriousness, I do not believe we are going to see the end of the 40 year category any time soon. Sure, stocks of 50 are bolstered by much older component Ports. But is that sustainable for the long term, and especially for 50 YO Whites? I'd be more worried about that category than the 40 YO, just in terms of sustainability.

At £320 for a 50 (regardless of producer!) would you rather have 3 bottles of a very solid 40? I think MOST consumers would say: "yes, that makes more sense, at least economically." Don't get me wrong, I love 50 year old Tawny and White Ports. I am fortunate to have had most that exist today. It is a great new category, and completely relevant for birthday and anniversary celebrations; but I honestly see no good reason why the 40s are in any jeopardy of disappearing from the map.

I believe there are excellent "steps" up from the 10 through 50. Each has a place. I understand why NIepoort never made a 40 in the past and DR's rational for abandoning theirs; but many of us love to break out a 40. Because we can. They are FAR more affordable than 50, which certainly has its own niche. I hope there will always be a strong 40 category. Some of my favorite tastings have been a flight or three of 40 year olds, to compare!

One man's humble opinion.

Personally, I tend to like 30 yr olds more than 40’s. I think they’re the perfect balance without getting “dusty” like some 40’s do.

As for 50’s, they have their place. But I haven’t been as impressed as I thought I would have been with them. Too bright, sharp, and clearly a departure from a natural aging profile, unlike most 40’s which are much truer to their age. Of course, that’s a generalization and I’ve had some standout 50’s. But if I had the choice I’d go with a 30 or 40 most of the time.

Andy V. wrote:

But I haven’t been as impressed as I thought I would have been with them. Too bright, sharp, and clearly a departure from a natural aging profile, unlike most 40’s which are much truer to their age. Of course, that’s a generalization and I’ve had some standout 50’s.

Which 50 year old Tawny Ports did you not appreciate, or find as you described above?