Henriques and Henriques Grand Old Boal Reserva

[Jim Wagoner]

Madeira lovers, I would like to share a tasting experience with you which may have been my best ever. In June, I opened a bottle of Henriques and Henriques Grand Old Boal (Reserva) which I purchased at H&H about 4 years ago while on the island. This non-vintage bottling is thought to be from approximately 1800-1825, as reported in Madeira by Alex Liddell. This was put into bottle in 1927, re-corked in 1955, 1975, and 2000. The bottle was caked with sediment and almost completely black. But the liquid poured perfectly clear and bright for the first 90% of the bottle. It's appearance was that of a light consistency, medium colored maple syrup, with a slight green edge. The nose just leaped out of the decanter. It smelled fresh, prickly, and of chocolate and spice. Upon tasting it was very intense, treacle, chocolate, and maybe even laced with tea spice. It's balance and persistence were amazing and the flavors just would not fade. For the intensity I almost expected a "hot" finish but there was none of that, just flavor on top of flavor. The friends who shared the bottle with me were amazed by this experience also.

Has anyone else tried this Madeira? If so, did you find it as stunning as I did, or am I just over-blowing this. But to me this was as close to perfection as I've been. Just waiting for the occasion to open the one bottle I have of the H&H Reserva Malvasia.

Wags

[Roy Hersh]

Hi Jim,

Welcome to For The Love Of Port (and Madeira of course). It is great to have you with us as we never seem to attract enough Madeira lovers here. Your TN sounds great and the specific bottling very interesting. I will have to check notes to see if this is one, I have ever tried before. More than likely someone here has.

Are you in Europe or based somewhere in N. America?

It would be helpful, for when we have Madeira events crop up, as we will in October.

Best regards,

Roy Hersh
Founder
FTLOP.com

[Marco D.]

I will have to check notes to see if this is one, I have ever tried before. More than likely someone here has.

I will save Roy the effort of checking his notes. He did indeed have it, as did I, at a Madeira tasting Roy organized in Washington DC. I still have the empty bottle sitting on my "Madeira hall-of-fame" shelf.

Jim, I do not think you are over-blowing it. It is indeed a stunning bottle... in my personal top 10. Here are my notes from the DC tasting:

Not dated, but circa 1800, rebottled several times. Amazing complexity and balance. Cognac, orange peel, toffee and autumnal spices: cinnamin, clove, allspice. Hints of tea. Elegance and power combined in the most uncanny way... wondeful persistance. The second best wine of the night. OUTSTANDING!

Thanks for posting your notes... nice to see a spike of activity on the Madeira forum.

[Alan Gardner]

Indeed a stunning wine. I had it at a dinner in the H&H cellars in Funchal about 15 years ago. A group of 16 of us sort of aggregated together on the island (one couple decided to go and mentioned it to others - eventually 16 of us travelled together). At that time we tried to acquire some but it wasn't for sale - although obviously it has now been sold publicly. I recall the Bual as being my favourite, although a similarly aged Terrantez was also spectacular.

[Reidar Andersen]

I also have tasted it. The late great John Cossart treated me and my wife with it a couple of years ago.. It is
a stunning wine, like the Malvasia of the quartet.

He mentioned that he guessed it was most probably from before 1800, without really having any proof......

[Roy Hersh]

Thanks Marco,

Here is my TN of that bottle:

Henriques & Henriques Grand Old Boal (approx. 180-200 years old) – Dark chocolate color with a golden hue on the meniscus. Slight funk initially with turpentine, marzipan and baking spices. Elegant with medium body weight, this H&H opened up and came alive in the mouth. Bottled in 1927, rebottled in 1955 and again in 1975. I left this in my glass for nearly seven hours as I doubt I’ll ever see another, and it became more viscous and round and gained further layers of sweet pecan and butterscotch flavors. The finish was very long but had a slightly bitter aftertaste that did not improve, otherwise this would have been one of the better wines on the table. Lots of fun nonetheless and I would really like to find a bottle of this again someday to watch it evolve over a few days or even a week, as I bet it would be significantly better and more complex. 95 points 3/10/07