For The Love Of Port

I got a reminder a while ago to post and since the cold season is at our doors - at least in some northern climes like Quebec, it is time for me to start thinking port again!
(I prefer sherry during the warm season)

Bottle nose in colheitas
The first time I read about bottle nose in colheitas, I was happy to consider the thought of aging a colheita to see if the time in the bottle would change its aromatics. I have bought a few colheitas for that purpose but I don't recall seeing any comment on this recently.

What is the opinion of colheita aficionados on this concept?
Is it a question of 'no time to waste aging great tasting colheita' or is it something you have had experience with and it just doesn't do it for you, preferring recently-bottled specimens.

Older (bottle-aged) LBVs
I vaguely recall asking about this somewhere and Frederick answering.
I am asking again to see if I can have more opinions.

I have bought a few unfiltered LBVs c. 2000-2001 for the purpose of aging them: Warre's 1992, Churchill 1994, Ramos-Pinto 1995, Quinta do Noval 1995 or 1995, Niepoort 1995 and 1996, Quinta do Infantado 1996.
(Don't forget I like to experiment with wine necrophilia; I'm the guy who opened his first Barca Velha 1991 just this past summer and who still has Sogrape Douro Reserva 1997s.)

I think the time has come to start opening some.

I am thinking of organizing a Montreal offline on this theme if there is some interest (we could throw in a few SQVP to make it interesting) or we could make it a VT theme (sorry, no 1975 VP in my cellar and none at our dear SAQ)

Patrick

Patrick,

I am champing at the bit to respond, but feel it is fair for others to chime in first so there will be more discourse. Please be patient as I am sure there will be at least a handful of great responses. Hopefully Andy too will be "restrained" or at least poised, while others consider your provocative question.

It is great to have you back in our midst!

Yes I too have held back on this one. I've got my own thoughts but would really like to hear from others first.

I tried a Ramos 20 year tawny that was bottled in the late 90's. I did not think it had as much aroma or freshness as a recent bottled version. There's something to be said (negative) of leaving Colheitas or Tawny too long in the bottle. It could take decade or more, but the T-Cork is not up the task like regular corks on Vintage Port. There could be some that prefer it to recent bottlings, but I have my own preference for recent bottlings in Colheita or Tawny.

I also tend to prefer recent bottlings of Tawny's and Madeira's. They do seem fresher. Extended decanting can sometimes help it, but not always.

As for older LBV's... I've had some great ones. A 1962 Noval Crusted Port (which I think of as LBV), was superb. They can, and do, improve in bottle. Of the years that you mentioned. I would open some and see where they are. The 1992's might be great or closed down. Who knows.
-Dave-

I like to experiment with ageing LBV's as well and have a couple in the cellar for future drinking. I wish I still had some 1995 Niepoort. It was one of my favourites and I think it will go a long way. Leave it for at least 5 more years to see how it evolved. Remember: Niepoort didn't make a VP that year (except from Qta. Passadouro) so the good juice must have gone somewhere!

I've just picked up some 1977 Kopke Colheita's that were bottled in 1999. I also have some bottled in 2007. One day I open them side by side to compare the difference, I think that would be really fun. The only hard part is being in cask for almost another 10 years will also have an effect on the taste.

I enjoy 'em all, and have found that some decanter time will almost always help a bottle aged tawny open up nicely.

It's not limited to Colheitas, either, even a 20-yr old Tawny that was bottled 4-5 years ago will need some time to air out. It seems to me that just about any wine will go into a down phase after 2-3 years in bottle and that really doesn't seem to go away until it has been in bottle for 10-12 years.

Patrick,

Wine "necrophilia" can be a lot of fun. I learned a long time ago, mostly by what I read in books when I first started out collecting, that wines and ports can do marvelous things in bottle. Almost any book I read had a tale of some unpretentious bottling that turned into a beautiful drink decades later. I figured that I ought to try to hold on to good but simple bottles to see how they develop. A final bottle in the cellar is always a struggle for it represents perhaps the last chance to age it farther.

I may have the edge on you for not only do I have a bottle of the Sogrape Douro Reserva 1997, I even have a few bottles of '87 and '89 Dao as well as '90 and '91 Periquita (not the Periquita Classico). People think I'm nuts, but really, for wines like these the cost of experimentation is minimal.

Colheitas are generally fresher soon after they are bottled. I've had older bottles and while they didn't taste the same as the younger port they were still a good drink. As for LBVs, even filtered ones, I suggest you drink a few before choosing the ones to cellar. I recall drinking a swath of '87 Taylors LBV (filtered and bottled in '92), a beautiful chocolaty port that even garnered 4 stars in Decanter. I put a handful of them in the cellar and drank them over the years. All were delightful and there is one bottle left. Again, a last bottle, and difficult to decide when to open. I don't expect fireworks, but when I do open it, it will be after dinner and wine, served on its own, not competing with a younger, more vigorous port.

Too bad you're in Montreal or else we could drink a few "necrophiliac" wines together.

Andy, a '77 Kopke Colheita that I had in the early '90s was very sweet and luscious. I wish I still had the older bottling. I'm certain that with each subsequent bottling the cask aging will make a difference. Your '77 Kopke, bottled in '99, is a 22 year-old tawny, while the '07 bottling is a 30 year-old tawny. You certainly will have fun comparing the two but there really is no comparison other than to remember how the older bottling was when it was young.

Cheers......Mahmoud.

Mahmoud,

Unfortunately there is no 1977 Kopke Colheita left in the cellars in Gaia. The importer is right near my home and I have had just about every Colheita they've ever made and that is not even including the ones I've had on a few visits to the old and new Kopke Lodge. It was a really nice Colheita while it lasted but it was relatively inexpensive and people were clarmoring for it here in the USA and sadly except for what is in people's cellars ... it is history now.