Today, my travels took me through Sacramento, CA, and while there, I decided to swing by a store I'd heard was known for its Madeira and Port selection, Corti Brothers Grocery.
This is full gourmet grocery, but the real standout is the wine department, and in particular, their selection of sweet and fortified wines. The have a huge selection of Ports and Sherries of all kinds, and all sorts of other sweet wines - Banyuls, Muscats, even something I've heard of but never seen before - bottles of Superiore Marsala. Not the cheap stuff used for cooking, but aged, well-balanced (and rather expensive) Marsalas that meant for the wineglass rather than the saucepot.
But it was the selection of Madeiras that floored me. Most wine stores have, at best, half of a shelf devoted to Madeira. Corti Brothers has a selection taking up four or five full-size shelves of different kinds of Madeiras from a number of different houses. A complete line of Henriques & Henriques Madeiras - every variety and I believed 5-, 10-, and 15-year old examples of each. A large selection of Barbeito Madeiras, including some Barbeito Rainwater Madeira with an incredibly retro-looking label on it. (I almost bought it for the label alone.) I don't think Barbeito had used this label for years, and yet the bottles and label were new-looking and carried a distributor's stamp. They had all of the Broadbent Madeiras, including 10-year-old Malmsey at $28/bottle (before tax). They also had many of the usual MWC brands (Blandys, Cossart Gordon, Leacock's, Miles).
And that's not to mention the locked shelves of Vintage Madeiras and Ports, going back to the 19th century. Apparently, the owner Darrel Corti visits Madeira every year or so and does much of his own importing. Unfortunately, certain bottles in the collection are mainly for show (in effect, part of his private wine cellar), so you may not be able to buy some of the bottles on display. I saw a 500-ml bottle of Moscatel de Setubal Superiore for $62.50 which I was ready to snap up, but unfortunately, that was a keeper. I was told a few years prior, they'd had a whole stack of boxes of these out. Darn!
Another neat thing about this store is that they keep lots of empty bottles of very old and rare wines, including old Madeira bottles. These bottles are still corked, and if you pull the cork and smell, the wonderful bouquet of old Madeira is still readily apparent.
I was so taken with their Madeira selection that I never did explore the Port selection closely. I ended up buying an Henriques 10-year-old Sercial (which I've always wanted on hand as an aperitif) and an Henriques 15-year-old Malmsey. Tasting notes on these later.
The store is in Sacramento, CA at 5810 Folsom Boulevard (between 58th & 59th). The nearest freeway exit is the 65th St exit on I-50.
They have a website at:
http://www.cortibros.biz . Strangely, the website has no mention of their Madeira selection.
Peter