Advice on an old Moscatel de Setubal

[Howard Marc Spector]

I have a J.M. da Fonseca Moscatel de Setubal from 1922. I am planning to open it for new years, but don't know whether I should open it in advance, decant it, or what to expect. Any advice?

thanks in advance,
hm$

[Roy Hersh]

Of course this is not Port, so this is a bit out of place, however, no harm no foul.

I've had extensive experience with the oldies from this producer with the majority of vintages from 1962 back to 1927. I've also had older ones non-vintage such as the exalted "return voyage" which is really old. This is just to provide one quick word of advice. I suggest opening and pouring this straight away. It is not going to fade on you, as this is incredible nectar and will certainly deliver a most memorable drinking experience. I find these open beautifully in the glass and no prior decanting is required at all ... and I am normally the first to suggest decanting of most wines!

[Pedro Guimaraes]

If the bottle is in good shape (which probably is) you're going for a treat

[Mahmoud Ali]

On the subject of old Moscatel de Setubal, I have an old bottle of Setubal 20 Anos that was bottled in 1989. Next year it will have been in bottle for 20 years! It's a full bottle and has a dusting of fine sediment and a crusting on the side of the bottle where it was cellaring on it's side.

I plan to open this bottle soon but as I've never had an old Moscatel de Setubal I was wondering if anyone has had an old non-vintage and can tell me what to expect.

Cheers.............Mahmoud

PS: I expect the advice about not decanting holds true for this bottle as well.

[Miguel Simoes]

Howard, if you recall, how did your moscatel show?
Curious to hear about such an old bottling.

[Roy Hersh]

Mahmoud,

I had 12 bottles of the old bottling of the Roxo, the original 20 year old Moscatel de Setubal. It was a huge difference from the later bottling, now called "Alembre". The old Roxo was one of the best bargains on earth when it came to pound for pound sheer beauty in a fortified wine. I can't think of any Port or Madeira that provided greater value for money and quality at such a high level at that price point. I only wish I still had some left. I spread it out well over a decade, but still, alas, there's not a single bottle left of it in the cellar. Just an empty "Retorno Viagem" and one full bottle of the 1962.

[Andy Velebil]

Mahmoud,

I had 12 bottles of the old bottling of the Roxo, the original 20 year old Moscatel de Setubal. It was a huge difference from the later bottling, now called "Alembre". The old Roxo was one of the best bargains on earth when it came to pound for pound sheer beauty in a fortified wine. I can't think of any Port or Madeira that provided greater value for money and quality at such a high level at that price point. I only wish I still had some left. I spread it out well over a decade, but still, alas, there's not a single bottle left of it in the cellar. Just an empty "Retorno Viagem" and one full bottle of the 1962.

I still have some of the old ones. Remind me next time we meet up and ill bring one.

[Roy Hersh]

Thank you kindly, sir.

[Marco D.]

I remember WineX blowing out the 1962 at around $40 (per 500ml bottle) back in 2004.... the good old days...

[Eric Ifune]

I still have a few bottles of the JM Fonseca 25 year old, in bottle for another 25-30 years. I think it would have been better some years ago. They are still very enjoyable, but I think it might have been "fresher" in the past.

[Mahmoud Ali]

Gosh, a four year-old post revived. Well, let me update then.

Roy, although my bottle was a 20 Anos by JM Fonseca, it wasn't a "Roxo". I suspect that is a different product though I'm not sure how so.

I did eventually open the Moscatel de Setubal, a 20 Anos (bottled in 1989), probably in 2009, by which time it was indeed 20 years in the bottle. It was superb, perhaps one of the more complex and rich desert wines I've tasted. Because of the sediment and crusting on the side of the bottle I decanted it just prior to serving. Although they now seem to be sold in half bottles mine was a full one.

Shortly thereafter I picked up a couple of bottles of the 2000 Alembre to stash away though I realize that is not of the same quality as the 20 anos and likely will never develop nearly as well.

Mahmoud.

[Eric Ifune]

The Roxo is actually a different grape variety, i.e. a pink muscat. It's considered superior in Setubal.
The Alembre is quite a good wine, well priced, but not the 20 year old Roxo.