Portugal Travel Help

[Bill Bucklew]

I am traveling to Portugal the first week in March. I will have Friday and Saturday (With and extremely early flight back on Sunday) open for personal time. I am staying in Porto.

This will be my first time to Portugal and I am a huge port (Vintage and Tawny) fan. I would appreciate any suggestions on recommended activities for both vineyard/cellar tours/tastings and restaurants that I could pull off with only two days on my hands.

I can be flexible on where I stay on Friday Evening, given that, would a trip to the Douro make sense???

Thanks much in advance!

[Glenn E.]

There are several things you should do in Porto if this is your first visit. Depending on your budget, the Pestana Porto is an excellent (but somewhat expensive at 200 Euros per night) hotel right on the waterfront in the historic Ribeira District of Porto. The rooms look out across the river to Vila Nova de Gaia.

First off, make sure you visit Vinologia. It's the best Port bar anywhere, and you will have the chance to sample some excellent Ports while there. Vinologia is located 1 block north of the Pestana Porto on the corner across from the Factory House. Make sure to try the 1952 Dalva Golden White Colheita while there - it's one of the few places in the world where you can buy it by the glass, and in my opinion it is well worth the price.

Next, do make sure to tour one or more of the Port lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia. The Sandeman tour is very touristy, but in some ways that makes it an excellent "starter" tour. They get you in, explain everything, let you sample a couple of Ports, and get you out quickly. That will tell you whether or not you want to do more cellar tours. The "cellar" part of all the tours is basically the same, so once you've seen one any further tours should be chosen based on the other things you get to see.

If you do want to do more cellar tours, Ramos Pinto is just west down the street from Sandeman. They have converted their original headquarters building into a museum, which makes their tour very nice. Ramos Pinto is also unique in that they chose very early to concentrate on Brazil as their target market, so their style was developed specifically to appeal to Brazilians. It sometimes helps to make a reservation when touring Ramos Pinto, though, because the language for each tour is chosen by the first person to sign up for that particular tour.

Finally, there are many excellent restaurants in Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. Two of my favorites are Tromba Rija, which is on the waterfront between the Sandeman and Ramos Pinto lodges, and the restaurant at the Taylor Fladgate lodge. Reservations are probably necessary at either restaurant. The Taylor's restaurant loses some of its appeal in March because the weather probably won't be suitable to eating on the patio, but the food is terrific and their Port select is appropriately excellent. Tromba Rija specializes in Portuguese home-style cuisine. It is very affordable (last I checked it was still 30 Euros per person, everything included) and very delicious. They don't open until 8:00 pm though, and dinner will take 2-3 hours so be prepared for a late night.

For such a short trip I don't think that you would truly enjoy a trip up the Douro valley. Plus the weather probably won't be that great for touring a vineyard. There are many great things to do in the Douro valley, but personally I think you would want good weather to do them. There is plenty to do in Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia for a short trip.

Have a great trip!

[Eric Menchen]

+1 on everything Glenn said.

When there my wife and I rented an apartment one block over from the Pestana Porto. I don't think renting an apartment would be worthwhile for your length of stay, but I echo that that is a great location. You can walk across the bridge to the lodges, and stumble home from Vinologia.

If you absolutely need a day to relax, you could take a boat trip up or down the Douro (train in the opposite direction). You would then technically see some of the vineyards, but like Glenn said, you don't really have time to devote to really seeing and touring them. And this would take time away from serious port sampling.

There are a couple of other good places to taste besides the lodges. Others FTLOP'ers should add them to this thread. If not, I'll dig up the details.

I have numerous touristy photos in albums at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/foomench
Look for the "Porto-" ones.

I once knew a Bill Buckellew in Florida (Eglin/FWB area). That wouldn't be you, would it?

-Eric

[Andy Velebil]

Bill,

Great to have with us here at . Some great advice already from Glenn and Eric. I know there are others here that will also provided some good advice....I'm just headed out the door but i'll add some thoughts later tonight.

[Roy Hersh]

Hi Bill,

Instead of replying to your email, I felt you'd benefit from seeing this here. Please looking through the restaurant recommendations listed in threads in this part of our Forum. There are many solid mentions of places to go and it would really make your decision making much easier.

Glad you joined us, as since it seems you are a serious Port lover, this will be a great first trip.

I think driving up in the Douro is a waste of time. Either hire a driver so you can enjoy the views and be safe to drink, or avoid the Douro during this visit with such a short time and focus your entire time down in the Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia area. If you are positively going to head up to the Douro, let me know and I'll help you in that regard, with driver and all ... but it would have to be within the next 24 hours to ensure you get proper appointments. To be honest, if I was in your shoes, I would not take an entire day out of your short trip to venture all the way up there and back. You can always return and tour on a more leisurely basis.

Not to toot our own horn here, but if you have a look at the Travel Page on the homepage, I think you can see it may pay to come along with us one year whenever you're ready to return and get an entire view of the Port Harvest and meet folks from here and the key players within the Port trade.

Thanks for dropping in and I am sure others will also provide great insights for you here as you are talking to people with numerous visits, sharing a similar passion for Port and collective Port wisdom.

[Bill Bucklew]

Thanks to all for the information thus far, I reallly appreciate it.

Sounds like the Douro is out, I will have to save it for next time.

Any tips on a good place to purchase older bottles of Port/Madeira while there? Also, any additional thoughts on areas of interest like wine/culture/food are greatly appreciated.

Eric, sorry, I am not the Bill Buckellew that you refer to, but the spelling is strikingly similar, hope he was a good guy

I will definitely post some details back on the trip, thanks much again for all the thoughts,

Bill Bucklew

[Andy Velebil]

Yeap, as others mentioned with this short of a trip it would be a waste to try and see the Douro itself. Best to concentrate on the Oporto/Gaia sections and save the trip up river from when you have more time to spend there.

On the Oporto side Vinalogia http://www.lamaisondesporto.com is a must stop one evening to taste a good mix of Ports, many that you will probably never have the oportunity to taste outside of their shop. Tell them the 'ers sent you there and they will be sure to take good care of you. It's a home-away-from-home for Port for many of us here when we visit the mother land.

Although it's a bit of a short hike up the hill the Graham's Lodge is also worth seeing. It's got a great view of the Douro River and Oporto on the other side and you can sample a good cross section of their Ports. Their little gift shop is also a nice place to pick up something for a decent price.

As Glenn mentioned the Sandeman Lodge is must see from a historical persepective. They have a really nice museum that you can walk through without having to pay for a tour. But IIRC the tour is only a couple Euro's and worth it. Make sure to check out their old bottle collection in the glass lined side room.

Also be sure to visit Maria Teresa at Avepod.
Rua Fonte Taurina, 89
4050-270 PORTO
Tel. +315.222 089 257
Its a co-op of many small producers and almost all of what you find there you will never see anywhere else again. There are some really good deals to be found, especially if plan to bring a few bottles back with you.

I should mention, if you do plan to bring back bottles take an empty styro shipper with you. They can be next to impossible to find once there. Although Vinalogia recently started carring some you could buy and that is the only place to find them. Sans the post office, and they only sell 1-bottle stryo shippers. So you would have to tape them together...which has been done before by someone here

Have a great trip, I know you'll have a great time.

[João Rico]

As i posted in hte RP BB,

Bill,

In that week Porto will have one of our biggest fair's, The Essencia do Vinho.
There you'll have the oportunity to taste all the wine and port, from the best houses. Almost everyone is there. You can see the program and producers http://www.essenciadovinho.com/default.php?lingua=2

Dates: 5, 6, 7, 8 March
Local: Palácio da Bolsa, Porto



Best Regards,

[Eric Menchen]

In that week Porto will have one of our biggest fair's, The Essencia do Vinho.
Local: Palácio da Bolsa, Porto

And the Bolsa is a beautiful building worth visiting on its own. Bonus for anyone visiting then. There also is a nice restaurant in the Bolsa, a good deal at lunch time. However, I wouldn't count on it being open when the fair is going on.

[Roy Hersh]

Listen to Joao and go to that event. You'll get to meet all the principal players in the Port and Douro wine trade that personally attend. I've heard it is a really fun time. There you will have everything all under one roof.

The Bolsa used to be the old stock exchange building and it is remarkable inside. It is where the Port Wine Brotherhood holds their annual induction services, which are impressive and somber affairs. Those take place in June, with the Bolsa decked out in red carpets etc.

So in short, don't miss the Essencia do Vinho event.

[Andy Velebil]

As i posted in hte RP BB,

Bill,

In that week Porto will have one of our biggest fair's, The Essencia do Vinho.
There you'll have the oportunity to taste all the wine and port, from the best houses. Almost everyone is there. You can see the program and producers http://www.essenciadovinho.com/default.php?lingua=2

Dates: 5, 6, 7, 8 March
Local: Palácio da Bolsa, Porto



Best Regards,

Bill,
You lucky duck...what great timing. You can't miss this event. From what I've heard it is a blast and worth checking out for sure. One of these days I will make it over for it.

[Bill Bucklew]

Wow, that event looks great, thanks much, I am really feeling good about staying put in Porto now. I am definitely going to check it out.

Does anyone know if this really sells out or if I should book a ticket in advance? I am trying to stay flexible on my days, but don't want to miss this event.

[Roy Hersh]

Yes, people come from other countries for this and it gets pretty darn crowded and you'll want to lock in a ticket. Don't wait, as Andy said, you have impeccable timing.

Now for all this brilliant advice everybody has shared with you ... can we count on your coming back here to share some of your tasting notes with us, after your trip?

[João Rico]

It's pretty crowded.

I'll be happy to arrange you an invitation.


Best,

[Roy Hersh]

Joao,

I really am looking forward to meeting you when I come to Portugal in May. By chance have you ever met Luis Antunes?

Thank you for the kindness you've shown to a new member!

[João Rico]

Joao,

I really am looking forward to meeting you when I come to Portugal in May. By chance have you ever met Luis Antunes?

Yeah, a lot. Great guy, really like him.

Thank you for the kindness you've shown to a new member!

We are here to help each other. No problem at all.

BTW, talked to Dirk today, and if Bill want's, he will have Niepoort's Cellars at Serpa Pinto, at his disposal for a visit. And of course me, and my Canon stuff too.

[Bill Bucklew]

Joao, thank you so much, that would be fantastic. I am traveling with one other colleague as well.

Please let me know what you need from me, I am planning on being in Porto on both the 6th and 7th.

I will definitely be posting my notes here, upon my return.

[João Rico]

Bill,

I just need a way to contact you or be contacted by you in Porto to give you guys the invitations and if you wish, a visit to the Niepoort Cellars.

I leave my Cell here just in case (+351) 963408114


Best regards,

[Bill Bucklew]

João, I am very iterested in the tour aslo, I sent you a PM with my contact information. I arrive on Tuesday, mid-day.

Thanks much (and to all), this has really turned out to be a fantastic exercise.

Bill

[Roy Hersh]

Bill,

Bon voyage!

We at hope you will have an amazing time over in Portugal and we are thrilled you came here. Where else could you wind up with appointments and people helping in this way, all for the love of Port.

We look forward to your report when you come back. If you'd like to put it into a short article, I'd be happy to publish it in the following newsletter and make sure you get a copy of course!