What determines "complexity" in Port?

[Glenn E.]

I have a question that has come up because of the 1995 Quinta do Crasto Vintage Port that I’ve been drinking.

I really like it – it’s easy to drink and tastes great – but I get this uneasy feeling that it’s not really a great Port and I can’t form a good argument against that feeling. (Don’t you just love arguing with yourself? You do do that too, right? ) This feeling comes from the fact that it doesn’t seem all that complex to me, but when I try to examine that concern I can’t come up with any sort of logical explanation one way or the other.

So... what does it mean for a Port to be "complex" and how do you identify one? Aren't descriptors like "smooth" and "integrated" at least somewhat in opposition to "complex?"

:help:

[Derek T.]

I use the "complex" descriptor when I taste a wine that seems to have layers of different flavours emerging as you hold it in your mouth.

[Kurt Wieneke]

Complexity to me is the same for port as it is for wine. There is nasal complexity, and there is flavor complexity as Derek has mentioned. Nasal complexity is many different descriptors coming from the 'nose' of the wine. The other type of complexity I feel has do with the wine's evolution in tastes in the glass or decanter. Complex wines and ports have a chameleon-like character where they can change flavors on you over minutes or hours or even next sips.

[Roy Hersh]

Agree with the others, esp. Kurt on this one.

There are several times where a wine can offer complexity. Aromatics, flavors in the mid-palate and/or the finish/aftertaste.

I typically find more complexity as a wine evolves with age. That is not to say that a young or even infant Port can not show complexity, as I believe it DEFINITELY can. However, it is easier for most people to understand "complexity" when sensing the "layers" that Derek mentions. Those typically don't emerge for years after the Port is bottled.

In table wine, I find the Pinot Noir grape offers the greatest level of complexity for me, but Riesling and Madeira also show that in spades. For PN, the Burgundian expression epitomizes a mono-cepages ability to deliver surreal layers in all senses of the word complexity. However, Bordeaux lovers typically believe that the blend of the Big 5 - accounts for it being the most complex wine on earth. Then again, they typically don't like Madeira.

With Port there is a great discussion to be had and I think it will be put into a separate thread.