For The Love Of Port

Mystery Madeira (More than 40 years of age Verdelho by Manuel Eugeno Fernandes) bottled in 2002.

Roy served this to us blind...
After we drank this we were told this was actually a 1954 Verdelho but can’t be label as such due to regulations. A very light tea color and lots of VA on the nose. There were also candied apricots, espresso, and grapefruit on the nose. Lots of citrus and so much searing acidity that made the fruit so tart it almost undrinkable for me. I did not like this one at all. 73 points
01/30/09

Wow, more for us. We had it again at the source on Saturday and all the Madeira lovers and some new to Madeira went ga ga. I think the average score for the group was 93 or 94 points. Even the other bottling with 52 years of age, vs. 48 which was just slightly less great ... was stunning. Trust me Madeira fans, Andy's note on this one does not do it justice. It does have powerful acidity, but ... well, that is the point of great Madeira. Just about every person on the trip bought multiple bottles. I know not to share mine with Andy, but have some other things I think he will like a bit better.

I don't have much experience with Madeira, and what experience I do have tells me that I'm not fond of it, but I'll back Andy up on this one. I liked all of the other Madeiras at the 2009 Gala better than this one, and this one is the only one that I'd ever had before. The 1905 Verdelho was my favorite.

For a Port lover, this particular Madeira is just too acidic. As Andy said in his note, the searing acidity made the fruit so tart that it was actually difficult to drink.

Now if you love Madeira that may not be a bad thing so I can't comment on the actual quality of this bottle, but for me (and apparently Andy) it's just not something I want to drink.

Cool beans. More for us.

You don't have to worry 'cause it will never be sold in the USA, or even Funchal.

Roy Hersh wrote:Cool beans. More for us.

Yeah, and that'll be such a hardship for you, too. I know how much you like this!

I used my last 3 slots in my shipper to replenish my dwindling supply. A number of other ers did the same, including a few who were at the Gala and had this there first. No harm, no foul. I know lots who don't like high acid wines OR Madeira.

I love acidity and it's one thing I really look for in wines, but this one was just over the top for me. It made the fruit so tart. Could have been due to it's place in the evening, or the order it came in on a tired palate. I have no issues trying it again to see if my thoughts hold true or not.

The bottle in Seattle didn't do this wine justice. It seemed much more dry and harsh than usual. Don't know if it was the bottle, or if the line up with sweeter wines did this in.
I've had the 48 and the 52 side by side twice now. Two years ago, I liked the 52 more, but this last time a few days ago, I prefered the 48. Both, however, are excellent and we are talking a fraction of a point.

Eric Ifune wrote:The bottle in Seattle didn't do this wine justice. It seemed much more dry and harsh than usual. Don't know if it was the bottle, or if the line up with sweeter wines did this in.

Eric,
Thanks that is good to hear, especially coming from you. No slight to Glenn or anyone else but I know you have tons of experience with Madeira and this one in particular. I would like to try this on it's own, or at least where it wasn't the last of over 2 dozen Ports/Madeira's. I'm sure that probably had something to do with it given how others normally state this bottle performs.

Andy,

I don't know why David has not chimed in as he also tasted these side-by-side on our trip and I know he bought some too. Must have liked it. But it would be good to get his thoughts here for the record.

No more I'm waving the white flag of surrender As I mentioned I would like to try this one again to give it a fair shot.

I am sure that can be arranged. Each year I deplete my reserves and at the proper moment in May, replenish the supply, so when we next get together, I'll make sure to decant a bottle.

Thank you very much sir, I look forward to the day

Roy Hersh wrote:I don't know why David has not chimed in...

I'm here! I've been working on the FTLOP web site all weekend and holiday. I liked this wine quite a lot - both the 1948 and 1952 versions. I preferred the 1948 due to its stronger acidity and bouquet, but the 1952 is no slouch. I found it to be classic Verdelho, with less caramel and more actual grape flavor than most - in other words, I was impressed by the transparency of the wine. An impressive and unique expression of Verdelho.
-Dave-