Madeiras -- Do they develop in the bottle?

[Marco D.]

Roy's interesting thread on tawny ports aging in the bottle begs the same question on Madeiras. I agree with Roy on older tawnys getting a more rounder, syrupy texture in the mouth. Funny that I really don't notice this with Madeiras that have extreme bottle age; perhaps the elevated acidity levels keep the wines "fresher", for lack of a better term.

The few Madeiras I've had with extreme bottle age have seemed to have a unique "sweet" bottle bouquet - something akin to sweet sandalwood, pressed dried flowers and women's perfume.

Anbody else have any input on Madeiras with more time in the bottle?

[Roy Hersh]

Great topic. I will keep quiet until a few others weigh in here. I really hope we start to get some more Madeira traffic going in this part of the Forum. If anyone has any ideas, I am open to listening. This is the kind of thread that if was on Port would be swarming with replies. Come on folks! :help:

[Alan Gardner]

I find this a little difficult to answer in a brief response.
Certainly the colour changes – that beautiful olive green rim develops over time in bottle.
However, in order to answer ‘knowledgeably’, I’d have to follow the development of a single bottling (several bottles) over a longer period. Typically the vintage madeiras just don’t come in significant quantities (at least for my pocketbook).
I’ve followed a 1905 Sercial for over 10 years and the acidity seemed to drop and the aromatics become more complex. However, what’s 10 years in a 100-year-old wine?

Similarly, I’ve tried the same Madeira bottled at various times (the 1795 Terrantez and a late 19th century Barbeito Bual) and the earlier-bottled version seems brighter and less caramelly – but I ascribe those differences to the further wood aging of the later-bottled versions (rather than anything from the bottle-aging).

For younger madeiras I find the differences between ‘bottlings’ to be more significant than any aging effects. If I find a ‘bargain’ (in terms of price for quality) I’ll buy a case. When we first got the Broadbent 5-yr-old in Ontario, I bought a case after sampling a single bottle.
The subsequent shipment (just over a year later), I tried a bottle – and it seemed like an entirely different wine. (And I bought another bottle to save for when I next encounter Bartholomew, so we can try the two shipments side-by-side).

Again, with 5-yr-old Madeira Wine Company bottlings I recently tried the Cossart Gordon Bual, which was superb, alongside the Blandy – which seemed tired. My understanding is that ‘only the label is different’ – the contents come from the same ‘storage unit’. But I don’t know which (if either) was longer in bottle.

So, the honest answer is – I don’t know (with a possible ‘yet’) added.

Coincidentally I just discovered a long-forgotten Leacock 5-yr-old Sercial in my cellar (it shows as being there in a 1997 Inventory), and so we opened it last weekend and served it blind at a dinner party (with a ‘white gazpacho’ – main ingredients almonds and cucumber – not an easy course to match a wine with). My big surprise was the fine sediment (so obviously a change in bottle) – but all the participants easily identified it as a sercial (OK, not quite true, one thought it a palo cortado sherry). I, of course, knew the identity, so didn’t need to guess, but it seemed a touch sweeter than expected, more in the style/mouthfeel of a verdelho, but still dry.

For sure, I don’t think there’s any significant risk of a well-stored bottle going “over-the-hill”, but I wouldn’t expect major changes over a generation.

[Moses Botbol]

Funny that I really don't notice this with Madeiras that have extreme bottle age; perhaps the elevated acidity levels keep the wines "fresher", for lack of a better term.

The few Madeiras I've had with extreme bottle age have seemed to have a unique "sweet" bottle bouquet - something akin to sweet sandalwood, pressed dried flowers and women's perfume.

Anbody else have any input on Madeiras with more time in the bottle?

Have had some old Madeiras, I have noticed this with. The one that fits this description the best was a 1975 Barbeito Terrentez that looked like it was bottled mid-late 19th century. It was not as delicate as let's say an 1895 Port. This Barbeito filled the room with sweet aromas. Just heaven!

[Alan Gardner]

Another sample!
I found a half-bottle of 5 yr-old, Cossart Gordon Bual that had been in my cellar for about 10 years (for sure it was over 7 years, but less than 12 - the dates of two inventories). I would assume that any bottle changes would be exaggerated in smaller bottles.
My assessment was that it was (still) in perfect shape - not really any different than from recent examples I've tried in 750ml botles.
So, with the possible exception of sercial (and rainwater?), I have been unable to detect any significant differences in bottle-aged madeiras.
But I do sense that some sercials appear to become 'rounder' - although I haven't performed any 'formal' evaluations.

And, in a similar vein (and as an afterthought - again no formal 'evidence') I have similar impressions of sherry - the only styles that seem to change in bottle are the drier versions. The sweeter oloroso styles seem to age superbly in bottle, but the finos certainly lose their freshness.

[Marco D.]

The one that fits this description the best was a 1975 Barbeito Terrentez that looked like it was bottled mid-late 19th century.

Did you mean to say 1875 Barbeito Terrentez... or (yikes) 1775?
:)

[Moses Botbol]

The one that fits this description the best was a 1975 Barbeito Terrantez that looked like it was bottled mid-late 19th century.

Did you mean to say 1875 Barbeito Terrantez... or (yikes) 1775?
:)

Op's, did I type 1975? :help: Meant 1795... I guess there's a difference...