TN: 1836 Lomelino Bastardo Vintage Madeira

[Marco D.]

[The Leacock Family Madeiras (Hotel Monaco, San Francisco, CA)]: This is the oldest Bastardo currently known to exist. Intriguing fruitcake and mocha nose. The flavors are "darker" than the other wines tasted thus far. More fruitcake, treacle and roasted flavors on the palate... almost like a liquid bolo de mel. Pleasing nut skin and coffee bean bitterness on the finish. This leans more towards the "bass" rather than "treble" spectrum of flavors that Madeiras can take on. More of an intellectual rather than hedonistic experience, but extremely enjoyable and unique. [I find it interesting that of the few Bastardos I've had, they've all tasted radically different... the 1875 Cossart Gordon displayed exotic tropical fruits (mangos/papaya/kiwi); the 1927 D'Oliveira was sharp and mouth watering with citrus and a bitter/chalky/mineraly almost Chinon-like flavor and acidity; the 1927 Leacock had a dusty dried strawberry and boullion/saline character. Tough to surmise a common thread among these little "Bastards". Mannie mentioned the classic bitter finish... perhaps the defining attribute?] (94)
6/6/2009