Glenn,Glenn E. wrote:Hi David, and
We all know that there are many grape varieties authorized for use in making Port, but we're also all familiar with the fact that only 5-7 or so of those varieties tend to make up the bulk of most Port. Typically that list includes Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Roriz and Tinto Cão, though I've also occasionally seen Souzão listed.
As a Portmaker, you can provide us with insight that most others can't. Without giving up too many of your Port making secrets, can you give us a basic understanding of what the main grape varieties bring to the blend in Port? I have heard the roles of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca in Port compared to the roles of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in Bordeaux wines, is that a comparison that you feel makes sense?
thankyou for your very good question regarding our grape varieties. All Port vineyards pre-1970's were planted using a combination of over 12-15 local indigenous grape varieties, several of which you have mentioned, randomly mixed within each plot. From the 1970's forward the trade intentially selected 4-5 of what were considered to be the most important varieties and planted them in larger individual blocks. The intention at the time was to select the best varieties, and by vinifying them seperately, get the most out of each one. Not much attention was given then as to what was in the old vineyards and the reasoning to it.
30 years past, we now have a much greater understanding, not only of the role of each grape variety, but also what was behind the intention to blend the grape varities in a vineyard. All old vineyards in the Douro (older than 40 years) have over twelve varieties planted, however Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Amarella normally make up 60-70% of the mix. It is interesting to note that Touriga Nacional was one of the principal grape varities pre-filoxera (1860's) however this variety was largely abandoned until it was re-introduced on a large scale from the 1970's forward.
The selection of fewer grape varieties, and the capacity to better locate them in the vineyard, has resulted in raising significantly the overall quality of Port, however I also consider that there also is the risk of reducing the greatness and complexity of Port, as well as reducing the differences between Quintas and Houses, as is so often the criticism of many new world wines.
At the moment we are actively working with and planting 10 of our traditional Port grape varieties, and also since 2001 I have returned to co-fermenting different combinations of the grape varieties.
There are physical, chemical and sensory reasons why co-fermenting our grape varieties produces much greater Ports than fermenting them seperately and then blending them later, however this involves a much greater understanding of each variety and location every harvest and it involves more risk, but when you get it right, the results speak for themselves.
The Vargellas Vinhas Velhas to me are the perfect example of this, where it is not only a question of the age of the vineyards that make the difference.
It is true that if we select Touriga Nacional and Touriga Francesa to make up the majority of the blend, much bigger Ports will be made, but this is at the cost of complexity, flavour, length and overall quality. I do not want out Vintage Ports to become 1 dimensional, and our past experience has shown that there is no lack of colour in our Vinatge Ports, particularly from the 90's forward.
Today, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Barrocca will play the majority role in a blend, however varieties such as Tinto Cão, Tinta Amarella, Rufete, Tinta Francisca, etc have a fundamental role in the complexity and individuality of the Ports we make.
David