Portugal tempts our taste buds with variety of wines

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Mario Ferreira
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Portugal tempts our taste buds with variety of wines

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Portugal tempts our taste buds with variety of wines

http://www.eastvalleytribune.com - [Phoenix - Arizona]
By Mark Nothaft, For the Tribune
February 15, 2006


Wines from Portugal involve more than its signature namesake dessert wine. Yes, I adore luscious, expressive port - vintage or otherwise - but winemakers from this European country bordering Spain bring much more to the table than collectible rubies and tawnies.

Portuguese producers are well in tune with our palates and pocketbook and are exporting a variety of delicious fruit- and value-focused whites and reds.

A wine and foodie friend recently reintroduced me to Vinho Verde, a light, slightly sparkling white wine that serves as an ideal accompaniment to tapas, canapés and other small finger foods. Its unoaked citrus style proved refreshing while snacking on plates of olives, cheese and roasted veggies. And it costs only 10 bucks. I'm grabbing a case for our next weekend brunch.

And that's the thing about wines from Portugal: Surprises are found in every bottle. It's a small country with a rich winemaking tradition dating back to the 12th century. It seems the entire country one way or another is involved in wine, agriculture and shipping. More than 100 million cases of wine are produced each year, behind only France, Italy and Spain in total production.

It is not just port wine, either; in fact, twice as much table wine is produced as port. Excellent white and red table wines are made throughout the country, but especially in the cool northern region. Lively, bright whites are made with Alvarinho, Arinto, Loureiro and Maria Gomes grape varieties. Top red grapes include Baga, Ramisco, Periquita, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and many others. The names may be unfamiliar, but the taste is unmistakable.

The wines are marked by accessible, well-balanced fruit and acid. The reds are ripe and the whites bright. Here are a few worth seeking out. Break away from the pack and mix in a few of these uncommonly good wines into your home entertaining plans.

Quinta do Carmo 2001 Dom Martinho: The Domaines Barons de Rothschild imprint has led to a renaissance at this famed Alentejo estate. The partnership with the French winemaker has led to innovation and modernization of an already great brand, and is now reflected in the consistency and quality of the wine. The blend of traditional grape varieties and world varieties like cabernet sauvignon and syrah add to the complexity and elegance of this rich, fruit-forward red. Serve with grilled meats and vegetables. $13.

Famega Vinho Verde: This brand is the best known, and loved, among fans of Vinho Verde. It's fresh, crisp and refreshing. Dare we say that it could be the perfect wine for the outdoors? At just 10 percent alcohol, it may be. It's uncomplicated, fun and stands up to heat with its gentle effervescence. Some whites fatten up in heat, and seem almost sweet. This one is bone dry through and through. Good alternative to pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc with Caesar salads and shrimp cocktails. $10.

W. & J. Graham's Ten Year Aged Tawny: OK, I couldn't pass up mentioning just one port. You can't discuss wines from Portugal without it. Some have taken on cult followings - and price tags. Not this gorgeous Douro Valley blend. Enjoy its velvety smooth texture, rich fruit flavor and long, luscious finish. Reminds me of a butterscotch sundae. Believe it or not, serve this one chilled, which accentuates the fruit and downplays the alcohol. $29.
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