February Artcle on Demarcation

[Stuart Chatfield]

Thanks Roy - a great article. Well written, and just the right level of detail. Got to get to work now, but I'll print this out as it will be excellent bed-time reading tonight!

It will be put on my bedside along with my pamphlet about Vargellas that my wife nearly threw away the other day

[Stuart Chatfield]

Maybe I'm slow - when do things appear in "A Word from Roy" and "Featured Article". Maybe this has been sitting there some time and I've only just seen it

Anyway, regardless of my stupidity and having only just found it, it is excellent all the same, even if it is old news to the non-luddites here.

[Roy Hersh]

Thanks for the kind words on the article Stuart. I have never spent as much time in reasearching any article I've ever written (to say the least).

Did you make your way all the way down to see the TNs and write up of the visits? That was just 2 of the six days of the trip. Crazy! I still have four days left from the Douro.

The featured article was updated yesterday and the A Word From Roy, will be done today, IF Stewart has the time. I have emailed him about that and also putting a new picture on the homepage where those bottles are in the bottom left hand corner where it says PORT & MADEIRA FORUM. It is time for a change to keep the "look" fresh.

How about that pic of my daughter decanting the '83 Gould? Not bad for just turning 3 a couple of months ago.


Roy <------------- particularly proud Port papa

[Stuart Chatfield]

Phew, I'm not so stupid.

I had a glance at the rest but I'm saving the detail for when I get time to really concentrate.

Yes, I saw your daughter decanting the bottle - I hope she has steady hands! My boys were introduced with a sip of port at the minmum legal age for drinking here (5) - one with Warre 70 and one with Taylor 75 but I'm not sure if I'd trust them to decant as one of them very nearly dropped a Cockburn 35 on the floor during recent "game" of theirs that I came in on just in time. My daughter who is two seems to have a far steadier hand, so she'll have to get some serious practice in to emulate Taylor's effort over the next few months.

I'm glad the Dow 80 continues to impress - we're of one mind there and I am about to stock up on that gem that must now be entering a phase where those a little slower off the mark are going to wake up to it. Judging by my notes on last tasting of it - Dec '03 - it must be just perfect now.

The VP sales chart was useful - why the US peak in 02, but the UK one in 03? Is that due to variations in delivery dates of the 00 vintage? I'd be interested to see figures for all countries in the premium sector over more years.

[Roy Hersh]

Thanks again Stuart.

Stewart has now worked his magic and the site's homepage is up to snuff. I really appreciate feedback on articles, because besides my wife's "yeah, I liked it" comment, I don't get to hear what others think.

I know this particular article was brutally long and it is my hope that it was interesting enough to hold one's attention through the end. I have a feeling that only serious Port geeks like us will appreciate it, but who knows.

Anyone else like to chime in, I don't mind negative or positive comments as it is the best way for me to learn what interests the readers.

[Andy Velebil]

Thanks again Stuart.

I have a feeling that only serious Port geeks like us will appreciate it, but who knows.

Anyone else like to chime in, I don't mind negative or positive comments as it is the best way for me to learn what interests the readers.

Ok Roy, here is a negative. Remember that other thread about not using enough pictures and about using those "Big words"...just kidding It was a wonderful article. One that should be enjoyed by all levels of "port geeks." You were able to summerize a large amount of history into an easy to read snapshot. I must say, I really enjoyed the historical part about the earthquake and the damage it incurred. I have heard mention of a big earthquake before but none of the books I have mention much, if anything, about it. I had no idea the area was so devestated by a tsunami :!:

I have not had a chance to get to the rest of the newsletter yet (except Fred pointed out to me your review of the '96 Graham Malvedos, which I had last night...a stunning SQVP!) But, as always, I look forward to it.

BTW, pass on my thanks to Stewart for his outstanding work on the site.

Thanks again

[Stuart Chatfield]

Yes, v. good bedtime reading after all. I noticed a "sticky wicket" in there somewhere, so good to see some cricket terms invading the American language. Let's hope no-one bowls you a googly in response to your request for feedback .

Personally, as I've said, I like the charts on sales, production etc. which are useful, so more of them please.

The historical bit was just perfect.

[Al B.]

Roy,

I also wanted to say that I found the article on the history of port, the region and its demarcation extremely interesting. Thanks for all the research that clearly went into it.

When I get the chance, I will copy-type the extract on Port Wine from my Nelson's Encyclopeadia. Your article made me wonder what was included in there when it was printed in 1912 - its quite amusing.

Alex

[Roy Hersh]

Alex,

In all honesty, I spent well over 100 hours in reading the various viewpoints from both Portuguese and British writers. My library encompasses over 70 books on Port and I used over 20 of them to cull various opinions. I also have some translated documents that I used which were also instrumental in putting this all together. Many of the sources I utilized were written between 1910 and 1940, and some of the analogies and information from that time period are priceless. One quote which I read was making the point that Pombal's monopolization of the Port trade by starting up THE COMPANY, was so outlandish that not even Mussolini or Hitler would do such a thing in their countries. This was written in 1933. Amazing stuff.

I will do some great work once my article on the trip to the Douro and then Madeira are complete. I want to write about the various grapes, market conditions, innovations in the vineyards etc. So many topics to touch upon. I am still debating whether to get into doing annual reviews of Ports a la "2003 Forecast" for a vintage like 2004. Sticking to the Generally Declard Vintages seems to be what most other journalists tackle. Getting the wines here, is the hardest part and takes far more time than does the tasting and writing (sadly).

[Al B.]

For amusement rather than anything else, I have copy-typed the entry for Port Wine from my Nelson's Encyclopaedia, published in 1905.

Some of the entry is wholly consistent with Roy's research and excellent article. Some of it raised my eyebrows (like port coming from Catalonia!?).

Alex

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Port Wine
A pale red to a very dark red or even violet-coloured wine, produced from special vines grown on the south and south-west mountain slopes of Douro valley in Portugal and in NE Spain around Catalonia. The wines of Catalonia are much inferior to those of the Douro, which are of the very best, and include all varieties from fruity to dry wines. A class of port known as Roussillon is also produced in the south of France near the Pyrenees; but although one of the strongest of French red wines, somewhat resembling port, its characteristics are largely those of claret. Very little of the port introduced into England is pure. The grape juice even for good qualities is mixed with a decoction of elder-berries, molasses, silent spirit, and other ingredients, not only to give aroma and flavour, but also to increase the tawny colour. After fermentation the wine is blended and fortified. The reddish tint on storing becomes a tawny colour; at the same time a deposit takes place which gives rise to the term “crusted port”. These blended wines come to maturity much earlier than those that are not treated with other wines and alcohol. Port is a rich, delicate wine, which owes its strong characteristics partly to soil, but largely to climate. In storing it is important that the wines should be kept free from chills and draughts, and at an even temperature of 58°F. To mature properly they must be bottled within three years of the vintage. They are then lighter and of a less gouty tendency. Ports contain from 18 to 25 per cent. of alcohol by volume. During the latter part of 1903 an important discussion took place on “old port”. The consensus of opinion was, that although some of the very old wines were perfect, yet after thirty years port does not improve. Many of those from forty to a hundred years had become as light in colour as the palest sherry. Port wines dating back beyond 1868 possess much drinking value. The more important port vintages are:- Exceptionally fine – 1847 (the finest known), 1868, 1878, 1887, and 1896; good – 1870, 1872, 1873, 1875, 1884, 1900, and 1901. That of 1902 was a failure, and of 1903 small yield of doubtful quality.

From Nelson’s Encyclopaedia, published 1905.

[Roy Hersh]

Some of it raised my eyebrows (like port coming from Catalonia!?).

In my article, I mentioned that inexpensive wines were added to the Port to "bulk up" the volumes due to the shortfall in production. I think I actually mentioned cheap Spanish wines being added, as they were probably the easiest country to supply Portugal back then, not to mention the cheap prices. However, this practice was totally gone during the mid-1750s when Pombal was in power ... and definitely was long gone by the mid-1800s, as was the adulteration with Elderberries etc. So the 1905 researcher probably was reading some very old information at the time. I bet there was no Google at that point. : )

After fermentation the wine is blended and fortified.

This too is obviously misinformation as we know that the fortification process takes place when fermentation reaches a specific level, and NOT after it has been completed.

Ports contain from 18 to 25 per cent. of alcohol by volume.

To be more accurate, 19-21% is reality.

1847 (the finest known),

From exhaustive research 1851 followed by 1878 are considered the two greatest pre-phylloxera vintages from what I have studied.