Multi: Notes from last night (assorted ports)
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:47 am
Informal tasting in London with some new friends. My notes are more impressions, as I was busy being introduced to the Bishop of Norwich. Overall, I viewed the wines in three distinct groups. The 70 Dow (the only 'proper') Vintage Port in the group was a standout. In tier two, we had a few very classy wines that just weren't quite up to the level of VP. In tier three we have the pretenders, which, FWIW, are broadly comprised of lesser 1975s (I had been told this would be a blind tasting of '75 VPs....)
1970 Dow -- This was the clear POTN for me. Pretty dark caramel and just a bit of spice on the nose. Good weight in the mouth, smooth transition from attack to mid to finish. How I like my women -- rich and elegant, but somehow understated and comfortable. A bit of heat on the finish, but so many truckloads of bright red cherries all around you hardly care. 91
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1986 Taylor Vargelles -- Quite a nice combination of walnuts and rose pedals on the nose. A bit lighter in the mouth than the Dow, but no slouch. Supple. Firm tannins still in place, with a bit of alcohol that suggests you can hold this guy for quite a few years still. While only two points lower than the Dow, a noticeable notch down in quality (IMHO). 89
1982 Sandeman -- group buy-in towards the end of the night for ~45gbp, this was quite an interesting port to finish with. I got what I can only describe as "Fall Forest Floor" (F^3) on the nose. A combination of dried leaves, dirt/mud, wood, and a bit of an almost decomposition-al component. Not bad, and certainly not flawed, but really quite curious. Actually not too dissimilar in a way from some 97 right bank claret I've had lately. In the mouth, it gives a very soft, almost floral/perfume component. Quite nice indeed. A different style than the Taylor, but of a similar caliber. 88
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1975 Cockburn -- Like the other 75s, this was quite pale in color. Hints of vanilla and dark cherries on the nose. Fairly light in the mouth -- I got almost a cinnamon component about half way through. Someone also chimed in with red liquorices, which struck a chord. Lightweight, but not stupid. I would have been temped to write something like 'a burgundy lover's kind of port' -- except the person who liked it most hates burgundy.![[shrug.gif]](./images/smilies/shrug.gif "Huh?")
85
1980 Croft Quinta do Roeda -- Fairly muted nose. Some maple syrup component which is rather interesting, if a bit feint. Very smooth in the mouth. Not a tremendous amount of flavor, but it is quite silky. More weight than the 75s, which stood out at first blush, but over time, the lack of flavor/complexity became increasingly clear. 82
1975 Martinez -- Again -- a bit of sugar syrup on the nose. Very thin in the mouth, and largely lacking in fruit. I believe 'grapefruit sugar water' hit this one quite squarely. 81
1975 Kopke St. Luiz -- Not hot, or difficult to drink in any way, but not the least bit interesting. Totally devoid of any flavor/complexity. At least it is an unusual bottle. 80.
1970 Dow -- This was the clear POTN for me. Pretty dark caramel and just a bit of spice on the nose. Good weight in the mouth, smooth transition from attack to mid to finish. How I like my women -- rich and elegant, but somehow understated and comfortable. A bit of heat on the finish, but so many truckloads of bright red cherries all around you hardly care. 91
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1986 Taylor Vargelles -- Quite a nice combination of walnuts and rose pedals on the nose. A bit lighter in the mouth than the Dow, but no slouch. Supple. Firm tannins still in place, with a bit of alcohol that suggests you can hold this guy for quite a few years still. While only two points lower than the Dow, a noticeable notch down in quality (IMHO). 89
1982 Sandeman -- group buy-in towards the end of the night for ~45gbp, this was quite an interesting port to finish with. I got what I can only describe as "Fall Forest Floor" (F^3) on the nose. A combination of dried leaves, dirt/mud, wood, and a bit of an almost decomposition-al component. Not bad, and certainly not flawed, but really quite curious. Actually not too dissimilar in a way from some 97 right bank claret I've had lately. In the mouth, it gives a very soft, almost floral/perfume component. Quite nice indeed. A different style than the Taylor, but of a similar caliber. 88
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1975 Cockburn -- Like the other 75s, this was quite pale in color. Hints of vanilla and dark cherries on the nose. Fairly light in the mouth -- I got almost a cinnamon component about half way through. Someone also chimed in with red liquorices, which struck a chord. Lightweight, but not stupid. I would have been temped to write something like 'a burgundy lover's kind of port' -- except the person who liked it most hates burgundy.
851980 Croft Quinta do Roeda -- Fairly muted nose. Some maple syrup component which is rather interesting, if a bit feint. Very smooth in the mouth. Not a tremendous amount of flavor, but it is quite silky. More weight than the 75s, which stood out at first blush, but over time, the lack of flavor/complexity became increasingly clear. 82
1975 Martinez -- Again -- a bit of sugar syrup on the nose. Very thin in the mouth, and largely lacking in fruit. I believe 'grapefruit sugar water' hit this one quite squarely. 81
1975 Kopke St. Luiz -- Not hot, or difficult to drink in any way, but not the least bit interesting. Totally devoid of any flavor/complexity. At least it is an unusual bottle. 80.