Madeira Ice Cream

[Alan Gardner]

Madeira Ice Cream
Why didn’t anybody think of it before?

Our wine group has a yearly Xmas party where we regularly feature older Madeiras (and many other wines too) and for the last season we decided to ask a local premium maker of ice-cream to make up some 88ml (3 oz) ‘tubes’ of Madeira ice-cream. We provided the ‘source material’ - some Justino’s Old Reserve 10-yr-old, which is (presumably) a sweet style Tinta Negra Mole. This is a competent, but unexciting, product that is indeed sweet – but lacks complexity.

We asked for the gelato maker to add a ‘twist’ which was achieved by using sour cream, so we had our own ‘Private Selection’ Sour Cream Madeira Ice Cream. Unfortunately there was NONE left over for me as the product ‘flew off the table’ so fast we scrambled to find enough for the helpers. This was an extreme hit.

So far a fun, harmless story.

Yesterday I was back at the ice-cream ‘plant’ – to check out any bin-ends and the owner was there. He thought the ice-cream he made for us was so great that he had made up another batch which he had just taken to a trade get-together in Italy. This one was a Buttermilk Madeira (low-fat of course). So who knows – may be coming soon to an outlet near you (OK not anywhere in North America as industry protectionism prevents ‘milk products’ from being sold across State/Provincial Borders – which is why most (all?) national Brands are made from powdered milk).

Oh yes – we went through 300 servings in about 90 minutes.

[Eric Ifune]

Sounds fascinating.
Is there a recipe?

[Alan Gardner]

The process is surpprisingly difficult - involves a lot of technical stuff to measure the alcohol and sugar levels. Ice creams and sorbets containing alcohol are notoriously difficult to get the right consistency. Too much liquid and they freeeze solid; too little and you have a slurry. I know he uses a spectrometer.
I'll ask if there could be a 'simple' home version. I know the 'overall' ratio (total volume product to input madeira) was about 10% madeira. That implies about 2% alcohol overall (which also means it would be illegal to sell it at retail in Ontario!).

[Peter W. Meek]

...That implies about 2% alcohol overall (which also means it would be illegal to sell it at retail in Ontario!).

Our governments in action again. If two beers are required to begin to affect judgement, then it would take 48 oz of 2% ice cream, and a lot more to seriously impair. (And 48 oz of ice cream wouldn't seriously impair anyone? Freeze yer gizzard, I think.) OTOH, there are people who need to avoid ANY alcohol, so there is SOME point to regulations like these.

[Al B.]

The process is surpprisingly difficult - involves a lot of technical stuff to measure the alcohol and sugar levels. Ice creams and sorbets containing alcohol are notoriously difficult to get the right consistency. Too much liquid and they freeeze solid; too little and you have a slurry. I know he uses a spectrometer.
I'll ask if there could be a 'simple' home version. I know the 'overall' ratio (total volume product to input madeira) was about 10% madeira. That implies about 2% alcohol overall (which also means it would be illegal to sell it at retail in Ontario!).

Has anyone managed to get a “make at home” recipe for Madeira ice cream / gelato?

There’s a start-up business near where we live who take what looks like an old fashioned hand-pushed wooden ice-cream cart to fairs and parties. The cart comes with a freezing plate on it. The guys then make ice cream to order in roughly 2oz quantities. They’re willing to try Madeira, Port and Sherry flavoured ice creams and if there’s a publicly available recipe they can follow that would give them a place to start.

[Frederick Blais]

A few years ago I adapted an iced nougat recipe to include Port. The result was quite delicious! Of course the texture is closer to frozen cream than ice cream or gelato, nonetheless, delicious!

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10 ... 9638917190

I'll try to see if I can find it. It is on a piece of paper somewhere with all the notes for the modification. But if I recall, you can start by finding a ice nougat recipe that includes a liquor to macerate the dry fruits and nuts. Replace that alcohol with Porto or Madeira. I did other tricks but that is a good starting point.

[Alan Gardner]

As I said in the "old" post - a lot of technical stuff and adjusting on the fly. We've made a shaved ice version (not my favourite) but never managed a realistic 'gelato'. I'm not a fan of custards so haven't made any recent attempts.
But if anyone wants to donate a 150 -year-old madeira I'll give it a try..........