Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting (168 wines tasted)

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Richard Jennings
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Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting (168 wines tasted)

Post by Richard Jennings »

WINES OF PORTUGAL ANNUAL GRAND TASTING (168 WINES TASTED) - Westin St. Francis, 32nd Imperial Floor, San Francisco, California (4/5/2010)

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This was my first time attending this annual tasting of Portuguese wine producers and distributors. The 32nd floor of the St. Francis Hotel is always a beautiful setting for these kinds of events, with incredible views of the City and Bay. I got started tasting at 2 pm, when the event opened for media and the trade, and was still at it until about 6:15 (the general public was admitted at 5 pm, but nearly half of the producers/distributors were gone by then, and many of those still there had run out of much of what they were pouring).

What's most challenging about a tasting like this is the diversity of the wines--from light Vinho Verdes to young vintage Ports, and everything in between. It would have been ideal at a tasting like this to taste the whites, or at least all the dry wines, first, and then go back for the Ports (and Madeiras) from the same producers, but I could see that some of the tables had a limited quantity of bottles, so I toughed it out and tasted straight through from light & dry to heavy & fortified and back again at each table. It was a good thing I did, though, because producers were running out of things I wanted to taste mid-way through the trade tasting portion, and one of my priority tables to get to, the Fonseca table, was all poured out by the time I got there. Nonetheless, that's a tough way to taste, and not one I recommend to someone who's not a veteran of these kinds of tastings.

The tasting confirmed for me that there are lots of terrific values to be had in dry wines from Portugal, with retail prices as low as $5 and $6 for some fairly well made and adequate drinkers. One needs to be pretty selective, though, to find dry Portuguese wines that offer interest and complexity, beyond just good value. I managed to find several out of the 168 wines I tasted on this afternoon.

The best Vinho Verde I tasted was the 2009 Adega Coop. de Ponte de Lima. The best other dry whites, that I rated at least 90 pts., were the '08 Cartuxa Foral de Evora and the '07 Alves de Sousa Branco da Gaivosa Reserva.

The best dry reds for me at this tasting, that I rated 90 pts. or higher, were:
'07 Cartuxa Evora
'07 Alves de Sousa Douro Abandonado
'05 Alves de Sousa Douro
'07 Alves de Sousa Vinha de Lordelo
'05 Vidigal Brutalis
'03 CARMIM Reguengos Garrafeira dos Socios
'06 Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande
'08 Herdade dos Grous 23 Barricas
'08 Herdade dos Grous Moon Harvested

I found a lot of appealing Ports of all varieties, and some at good price points. The '07 vintage Ports I tasted reinforced my experience to date that '07 is a complex and impressive vintage for a lot of Port producers. As I said, I missed the Fonseca table, but did get to virtually all the other Port producers (and one Madeira producer, Justino's), and the best of the Ports I tasted, rating 91 points or higher, were the following:
NV Alves de Sousa Caldas Porto Fine White
NV Alves de Sousa 10 Years Old
2004 Alves de Sousa LBV
NV J.W. Burmester 10 Year Old Tawny
1989 J.W. Burmester Colheita (93 pts.)
2000 Cálem Vintage
2007 Ferreira Vintage
1989 Kopke Colheita
NV Krohn 30 Years Old
1968 Krohn Colheita (92+ pts.)
2007 Quinta do Pégo
NV Sandeman 20 Years Old Tawny
NV Sandeman 30 Years Old Tawny
2007 Sandeman Vintage (94 pts. -- WOTD)

I am a fan of Portuguese indigenous varietals, especially the Touriga Nacional and the other traditional Port grapes, as well as Alvarinho on the white side, so it was educational to try so many different producers' versions of varietal wines from these grapes. I was also pleased that the Portuguese varietals dominated the tasting. Yes, there were some international varietals on hand--primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah--but they represented less than 15% of what was poured. I also learned from a couple of producers that Alicante Bouschet varietal bottlings have a growing following in Portugal itself, so we're likely to see increasing numbers of those.

This tasting helped get my tasting chops ready for Roy's Fortification Tour next month, where I expect to really get a sense of the top Portuguese dry wine producers, as well as tasting a lot of amazing Ports.

Adega Cartuxa - Fundação Eugénio de Almeida Domingos Alves de Sousa
Image Barros
  • 2005 Barros Porto LBV - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Berry, herbal nose; rich, berry, black fruit palate; medium-plus finish 88+ pts. (88 pts.)
  • N.V. Barros Porto 20 Year Old - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Nutshell, hazelnut nose; nutshell, hazelnut, espresso palate; long finish (89 pts.)
  • 1994 Barros Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Nice hazelnut, light coffee nose; hazelnut, light coffee, caramel palate; long finish (90 pts.)
  • 1975 Barros Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Nutshell, hazelnut nose; nutshell, hazelnut, caramel palate; long finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
Berço J.W. Burmester Cálem
  • N.V. Cálem Porto Special Reserve - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Coffee, nutty nose; coffee, nutty palate; long finish (7 years in cask) (90 pts.)
  • 2000 Cálem Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Light caramel nose; tasty caramel palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish (89 pts.)
  • 2000 Cálem Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Deep black plum, orange nose; tasty, deep black plum, orange palate; long finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
CARM (Casa Agrícola Roboredo Madeira) CARMIM Casa Antiga
  • 2006 Casa Antiga Vinho Regional Alentejano - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
    Tart berry nose; tart berry, black fruit palate; medium finish 85+ pts. (blend of Aragones, Trincadeira, Alfrocheiro and Alicante Bouschet) (85 pts.)
Casa de Santar
  • 2007 Casa de Santar Dão - Portugal, Beiras, Dão
    Fig, berry nose; fig, berry palate; medium finish (blend of Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz) (84 pts.)
  • 2006 Casa de Santar Dão Reserva - Portugal, Beiras, Dão
    Tart berry, plum nose; spicy berry, plum palate; medium finish (blend of Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz) (87 pts.)
Castelo do Sulco
  • 2007 Castelo do Sulco Vinho Regional Estremadura Reserva - Portugal, Estremadura, Vinho Regional Estremadura
    Rich plum, tart red fruit, herbal nose; tight, tart red fruit, berry palate; medium-plus finish (blend of Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Tinta Roriz) (88 pts.)
  • 2007 Castelo do Sulco Vinho Regional Estremadura - Portugal, Estremadura, Vinho Regional Estremadura
    Rich tart berry, crushed wild berry, herbal, anise nose; tart red berry, herbal palate; medium finish (blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca) (89 pts.)
Caves Bonifácio Caves Vidigal S.A. Conde de Palma
  • 2006 Conde de Palma Alentejo - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
    Fig, chocolate nose; fig, tart berry palate; medium finish (blend of Trincadeira, Aragones and Alicante Bouschet) (86 pts.)
Castello D'Alba Dona Maria Vinhos Dow Ferreira Casa Ferreirinha
  • 2008 Casa Ferreirinha Douro Esteva - Portugal, Douro
    Tart plum nose; tart plum, herbal palate; medium finish (blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca) (88 pts.)
  • 2006 Casa Ferreirinha Douro Vinha Grande - Portugal, Douro
    Mulberry, berry nose; tasty, soft, mulberry, berry palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Roriz) (90 pts.)
Fonte da Serrana
  • 2008 Fonte da Serrana Alentejo - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
    Berry, herbal nose; berry, herbal palate; short-medium finish (25% Aragonez, 25% Trinacadeira, 25% Alicante Bouschet, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon) (86 pts.)
Gilberts
  • N.V. Gilberts Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    From 375 ml - almond, hazelnut nose; white chocolate, orange liqueur palate; long finish (blend of Malvasia, Viozinho, Rabigato, Fernao Pires) (89 pts.)
Herdade dos Grous Justino Henriques Kopke Krohn Quinta da Lixa Montaria Monte da Cal Monte da Ravasqueira
  • 2007 Monte da Ravasqueira Alentejo - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
    Berry, oak nose; berry, oak palate; medium finish (20% Syrah, 20% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Touriga Nacional, 15% Aragonez, 15% Trincadeira, 5% Touriga Franca, 5% Petit Verdot) (84 pts.)
  • 2008 Monte da Ravasqueira Alentejo - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
    Oak, berry nose; oak, berry palate; medium finish (20% Syrah, 20% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Touriga Nacional, 15% Aragonez, 15% Trincadeira, 5% Touriga Franca, 5% Petit Verdot) (83 pts.)
  • 2009 Monte da Ravasqueira Vinho Regional Alentejano - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
    Tart strawberry nose; tart strawberry, citrus palate; medium finish 87+ pts. (40% Aragonez, 30% Alfrocheiro, 30% Touriga Franca) (87 pts.)
  • 2009 Monte da Ravasqueira Vinho Regional Alentejano - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
    Apple, floral nose; apple, floral palate; medium finish (60% Alvarinho, 30% Viognier, 10% Arinto) (88 pts.)
  • 2008 Monte da Ravasqueira Vinho Regional Alentejano Prova - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
    Berry, plum nose; berry, plum palate; medium finish 87+ pts. (45% Aragonez, 40% Alfrocheiro, 5% Trincadeiro, 5% Touriga Franca, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) (87 pts.)
Palestra
  • 2008 Palestra Douro - Portugal, Douro
    Tart plum nose; tart plum, herbaceous palate; short-medium finish (blend of Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca) (84 pts.)
Poças
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  • 2009 Poças Douro Coroa D'ouro - Portugal, Douro
    Oily, lime nose; lime, citrus palate; medium finish 88+ pts. (blend of Malvasia Fina, Codega, Rabigato, Viosinho, Moscatel) (88 pts.)
  • 2007 Poças Douro Coroa D'ouro - Portugal, Douro
    Caramel, berry nose; soft red fruit, cherry palate; short-medium finish (blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao) (86 pts.)
  • 2007 Poças Douro Coroa D'ouro Reserva - Portugal, Douro
    Caramel, berry, chocolate nose; tart berry, caramel palate; medium-plus finish (blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao) (89 pts.)
  • N.V. Poças Porto Tawny 20 Year - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Hazelnut, coffee liqueur nose; rich coffee, hazelnut palate; long finish 90+ pts. (blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao) (90 pts.)
  • 2003 Poças Porto Late Bottled Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Raspberry, baked raspberry nose; raspberry, baked raspberry, cherry palate, sweet; medium-plus finish 88+ pts. (blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao) (88 pts.)
  • N.V. Poças Porto Ruby Special Reserve - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Nice berry, cherry nose; balanced, ripe cherry, baked cherry palate; long finish (blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao) (90 pts.)
  • N.V. Poças Porto Special Reserve Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Coffee, molasses nose; coffee, molasses palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish (blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao) (90 pts.)
  • 2005 Poças Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Tart berry, fig, plum nose; ripe berry, fig palate; long finish (blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao) (89 pts.)
  • 2007 Poças Porto Vintage Vale de Cavalos - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Berry, caramel nose; tart berry, caramel, tart cherry palate; medium finish 88+ pts. (blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao) (88 pts.)
  • N.V. Poças Porto Pink - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Ripe cherry, baked cherry, vanilla nose; ripe cherry, strawberry, vanilla palate; medium finish 88+ pts. (blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinto Cao) (88 pts.)
Ponte de Lima Quinta das Tecedeiras
  • 2007 Quinta das Tecedeiras Douro Reserva - Portugal, Douro
    Berry, plum nose; berry, plum, caramel palate; medium finish (blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cao, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Amarela) (86 pts.)
Quinta do Encontro
  • 2007 Quinta do Encontro Bairrada - Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada
    Berry, black fruit nose; berry, black fruit, oak palate; medium finish (blend of Merlot and Baga) (84 pts.)
Quinta do Pégo Quinta do Pinto Quinta do Vesuvio Quinta dos Grilos Reguengos de Monsaraz Sandeman Santos Lima Senhor de Alto Sogevinus
  • 2007 Sogevinus Fine Wines Douro Veedha - Portugal, Douro
    Nice berry, black fruit nose; berry, black fruit, mulberry palate; medium finish (blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz; 10 mos. in French oak) (89 pts.)
Terras d'el Rei
  • 2009 Terras d'el Rei Alentejo - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
    Citrus nose; tart citrus palate; short finish 85+ pts. (blend of Rabo de Ovelha, Perrum, Siria) (85 pts.)
  • 2008 Terras d'el Rei Alentejo - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
    Oak, dark plum nose; simple, tart plum palate; medium finish 85+ pts. (blend of Trincadeira, Aragones, Moreto, Castelao) (85 pts.)
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Andy Velebil
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Re: Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting (168 wines tasted)

Post by Andy Velebil »

Wow! what a post. I just scanned it and can't wait till tomorrow when I can sit down, relax with a glass, and spend some time going over all the notes :thanks: [notworthy.gif]
Andy Velebil Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used. William Shakespeare http://www.fortheloveofport.com
Lester Lee
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Re: Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting (168 wines tasted)

Post by Lester Lee »

Wow! I attended the event as well but probably tasted only 20 and didn't bother taking detailed notes.

I enjoyed the 2007 Quinta do Pego VP as well... I'd remember giving it a 92 in my head. Great job!
Daniel R.
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Re: Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting (168 wines tasted)

Post by Daniel R. »

WOW! Congratulations on such a thorough job!
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Roy Hersh
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Re: Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting (168 wines tasted)

Post by Roy Hersh »

As one other reader wrote to me this morning ... this would have had a much greater impact as a newsletter GUEST CORNER article. So while I thank you Richard for your generosity in posting this here, may I suggest next time, you please submit this for inclusion in the newsletter. In fact, if you'd send it to me in a word .docx I would still be very happy to publish it for you and allow so many others the chance to read your excellent written work! :clap: :clap:
Ambition driven by passion, rather than money, is as strong an elixir as is Port. http://www.fortheloveofport.com
Richard Jennings
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Re: Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting (168 wines tasted)

Post by Richard Jennings »

Andy, Daniel, Lester and Roy,
Thank you for the kind words on the write up. (Andy, I was hoping you'd be attending the event this year and that we'd finally get to meet.)

Roy,
I'm always happy to send you anything I do Port or Madeira related for consideration for the newsletter, so I'll do that next time. And when I'm home this evening I can send you a Word file of this write up. And, BTW, Serry, who's pictured above, wanted me to give you her regards.

--Richard
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Roy Hersh
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Re: Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting (168 wines tasted)

Post by Roy Hersh »

Thanks Richard. Did she mention to you that she came along on the Fortification Tour two years ago? She and I chatted by phone last week and she told me you two had met up at the SF gig.
Ambition driven by passion, rather than money, is as strong an elixir as is Port. http://www.fortheloveofport.com
Richard Jennings
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Re: Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting (168 wines tasted)

Post by Richard Jennings »

She told me she'd been on your tour, and had an amazing time. (I didn't know it had only been 2 years ago.) She's been to Portugal a lot--I had no idea.
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Re: Wines of Portugal Annual Grand Tasting (168 wines tasted)

Post by Andy Velebil »

Richard,
I found out about it just about a week prior to the event (don't get me started on that topic) and there was no way I could get off work. I was bummed to have missed it as I've been to it before and it's a blast. I wish they'd come back to L.A. again, this is such a huge market for Port/Portuguese wines they really need to do another event. All the ones in the past had excellent turn outs on both ends of the tastings.
Andy Velebil Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used. William Shakespeare http://www.fortheloveofport.com
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