TN: 1850 D'Oliveira Verdelho

[Eric Ifune]

Returning from 7 months away from home, I decided to celebrate so I opened one of my precious 1850 D'Oliveira Verdelhos. My favorite Verdelho of all time; and in a way, an attempt to connect with the participants in this year's Fortification Tour. I believe you all had this at D'Oliveira.
I got this bottle a couple of years ago. No bottling date, but it appears a recent bottling.
Tasted upon opening. Very dark soy sauce core, fading to an electric lime-green rim. A cournicopia of aromas, limes, tangerines, toasted walnuts, butter toffee. No bottle stink. On the palate, sweeter and richer than I remembered; almost Boal-like. Seems open and not closed. Long, rich finish.
After 12 hours in the decanter, still the fabulous aromas, perhaps a touch of VA now; but on the palate, the acidity is starting to open up. Now definitely Verdelho-like. Lemons and limes on the palate.
After 24 hours, now we're talking! This is beginning to taste like the fabulous wine I remember. The aromas are there, but now, more distinct. The palate is pure Verdelho in weight and sweetness. More citrus and toffee. The balance is improving. Now with highish acidity. Long, long finish. I kept the empty glass for over an hour, just nosing it.
After 48 hours; Oh my! This is just stupendous! Same dark core with electric green rim. One of the most complex noses I can rememeber. Limes, lemons, grapefruit, toasted almonds and walnuts, dried apricots, toffee and caramel. Each aroma distinct, coming in waves. Beautiful balance with lots of acidic tension. The palate is almost ethreal. One of those rare wines which show extreme concentration and depth, but still elegant and filigreed. True Verdelho weight and sweetness. Rich, toffee and citrus fruits on the palate. Unreal finish. A wine to sit with and let unfold before you. It demands your attention but doesn't shout. This is why I love Madeira so much.

[Andy Velebil]

Eric,
Glad you made it home safely and your bottle sounds wonderful. Did you manage to save any for day 3?

[Eric Ifune]

Of course I saved some. I've got about a third of the bottle left, placed back in the bottle and stoppered, ala Mannie Berk. I'll have a nip every now and again. It's still as good as the second day.

[Roy Hersh]

Eric,

Nice impressions and a fine wine to connect. You were missed this year on our tour and I knew how much you wanted to be there. Yes, we did have that bottling on the tour as you can read about in Richard's trip description. In fact, our D'Oliveiras tasting on this year's Fortification Tour (and I know how crazy this is going to sound ... ) is probably the single best Madeira tasting I've ever attended.