Two years later, I finally returned to the “place of my roots” and two weeks in Portugal was exactly the tonic my spirit needed. Unlike past trips to the wine lands of Port, this would be very different. It was my first opportunity to guide a small group, along with my friend and travel business partner, Mario Rui Ferreira. It was easy to be successful, as we only had to allow our guests to experience the natural magic along the various parts of the Douro River and of course, try a few samples of Port nectar along the way.

As soon as I stepped off the plane in Oporto, I felt a sense of connectedness, as if I belonged here. After quickly unpacking, I decided to fight the overwhelming desire to sleep and instead walked along the “cais” (waterfront) of the Ribeira district, with its majestic views of the Port Lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia, just across the Douro. I roamed looking for a restaurant where I could feel comfortable and unhurried, while dining alone. Looking in the window of Presuntisco, (located in Oporto at the Rua Cais da Ribeira, 9. I knew I had found the “right” place to dine.

The restaurant staff made me feel right at home.  Small at six tables and twenty eight seats, this eatery is fairly new, although their stone walls originated from an old medieval fortress that once stood there 600 years ago.  The owner, Joaquim Granja, who hails from the town of the same name, exudes old world charm.  He suavely and genuinely greeted both tourists and regulars alike and this is the type of restaurant where you can soak in the ambience while enjoying the diversity of regional specialties and a finely tuned wine list.

Along came some generous appetizers from the kitchen.  Dates that had been wrapped in ham and gently baked, and a quiche-like dish that is much more delicate, with delicious sausage and egg baked together.  I began my vinous exploration with a glass of Porto Dalva White Port.  It showed a nose of toasted almonds, baked apple and offered up a medium body and a hint of sweetness that finished nice and dry.  Lightly chilled this was a great way to start the evening. 88 points (10/21/05)

Next I ordered a bowl of Caldo Verde, a rustic potato and cabbage soup here in Portugal and especially up North.  Here it was served “cooked to order” and steeping hot with a delicious thick slice of Chaurisco sausage and excellent bread baked from scratch.  No seasoning is needed as the kitchen nailed it, and it was as good as any version of this soup that I’ve ever had.  As an accompaniment, I had a glass of 2004 Arca Nova Vinho Verde.  With its light effervescence, Granny Smith apple note and Bosc pear flavor. all supported by bracing acidity, yet in a nice rounded package.  Not as green as most Vinho Verdes I have had, this was delicious and paired perfectly with my soup.  89 points (10/21/05)

The main course arrived, baked cod with roasted fingerling potatoes along with string beans and carrots that were sautéed in a garlic butter sauce.  The accouterments were all a pleasant addition but the Cod here was truly the centerpiece.  It is not often that I get excited by Bacalhau.  It is one of the typical regional staples and in the next week I would have this fish nearly ten more times, each cooked in different style.  But this took first prize in my book.  The cod is the specialty of the house and who can resist that?  Sauteed onions were atop the enormous and thick center cut fillet, adorned with bread crumbs then baked until the top became encrusted, which offered a great crunchy texture juxtaposed to the moist and tender fish.  Mr. Granja, sensing I enjoyed wine, suggested a glass of 2001 Cabeca do Pote Vinho Tinto (Douro red) – by S. Jaoa Pesqueira.  It was medium ruby in color but light in style.  This red was a gentle blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz, which made for a surprisingly delicate cuvee, with earthy and generous red berry fruit reminiscent of a Pinot Noir in style, but not flavor.  Uniquely Douro flavors were soft, very approachable and made for a pleasant drink with the delicious cod. 87 points (10/21/05)

I could not wait any longer.  It was time for Serra de Estrella cheese, my favorite of all Portuguese cheese and something I have craved since my last visit two years ago.  It is next to impossible to find in Seattle and costs $40 per pound when it is available.  Gooey and orgasmic, this molten cheese makes the finest French Brie seem like eating pointless calories.  Served with black currant and walnuts as a garnish, this is made to be consumed with excellent dessert wine.  Presuntisco has a very nice dessert wine list that specializes in the Ports of Dalva, which in the USA is known as Presidential Port and is made by the parent company, C. da Silva.

I decided to try a nice pair.  First, the C. da Silva 40 year old Tawny – orange/amber in color with a nutty almond note, a touch of orange peel and exotic spices, which finished like a dry but fruit-filled Amontillado Sherry.  Finely balanced and although there was a touch of alcohol on the nose, it did not prevail on the palate.  This was a very tasty well-tuned 40 year old Tawny that is a great example of this genre. 93 points (10/21/05)

And now it was time for something completely different. This really jumped off the page of the wine list.  I found out that Presuntisco was actually part of the Dalva Port operation and their Lodge was located upstairs in an adjacent building.  So for the grand finale, I decided to try the 1952 Porto Dalva White Colheita Port - I will admit that I didn’t even know that White Colheita Port existed, so I was most fortunate to have this 53 year old as my first experience.  It was a very dark amber color, more brown and initially was reminiscent of a Verdelho styled Madeira.  Nice caramel and pekoe tea flavors gave way to an expansive multi-faceted finish laced with toffee. 94 points (10/21/05)

After my last glass, Mr. Granja showed me around the Dalva Lodge.  Upstairs was a fabulous kitchen and beautifully appointed private dining room which seats thirty guests and is available to groups who book ahead.  It offers a dynamic view of the Douro River, the famous bridge Ponte Dom Luis and the Port Lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia.  Additionally, they stock 500 wines, many great Douro red offerings as well as their deep lineup of old and new Dalva Ports.

The restaurant staff made me feel right at home. Small at six tables and twenty eight seats, this eatery is fairly new, although their stone walls originated from an old medieval fortress that once stood there 600 years ago. The owner, Joaquim Granja, who hails from the town of the same name, exudes old world charm. He suavely and genuinely greeted both tourists and regulars alike and this is the type of restaurant where you can soak in the ambience while enjoying the diversity of regional specialties and a finely tuned wine list.

Along came some generous appetizers from the kitchen. Dates that had been wrapped in ham and gently baked, and a quiche-like dish that is much more delicate, with delicious sausage and egg baked together. I began my vinous exploration with a glass of Porto Dalva White Port. It showed a nose of toasted almonds, baked apple and offered up a medium body and a hint of sweetness that finished nice and dry. Lightly chilled this was a great way to start the evening. 88 points (10/21/05)

The next day I discovered a fantastic Port wine bar Vinologia, La Maison des Porto, (located on Rua Sao Joao no 46, Oporto) which is a very small but ultimately impressive bar of the Porto kind.  If this was near my home, I’d be broke and homeless.  Although it is a “bar” they consider themselves as a real “Port Wine School” offering more than 200 different bottlings of Port, with the best selection of Port by-the-glass in Oporto.  Gustavo Duhard, the manager and son of the proprietor pointed out that Vinologia is a truly international place, and showed me the numerous signed guest books they’ve kept since their opening.  The Port paraphernalia is crammed into every conceivable nook and cranny.  I love this place!

Gustavo’s father, originally from France, is a quieter more pensive gent and a fellow Confrade of the Port Wine Institute’s “Confraria” (brotherhood).  The “bartender” is an affable young Swiss guy named Cristophe and is fluent in at least a half dozen languages. He is well on his way to mastering the mysteries of the plethora of Ports in this establishment.  I found all three men extremely well versed in Port, but it was Gustavo that impressed me with his encyclopedic knowledge of small producers and off vintages.  Vinologia specializes in mostly small if not obscure Portuguese producers that few people in America have ever heard of.  Admittedly, there were a few that I had no knowledge of and was glad to have Gustavo guide my tasting, as he grasped the depth of my passion and desire to explore.

I knew I’d be returning that evening for an extended tasting, so I only tried one great Port that afternoon:

Quinta do Romaneira Porto, Over 40 Years Tawny (which is the nomenclature used in Portugal for what we in America call a 40 year old Tawny).  The color was of cola or light coffee, with a fabulous nose of dates and chestnuts while providing a medium body weight, albeit feeling lighter on the tongue.  Dry and smooth, with golden raisins, caramel and crème brulee on the palate.  The aftertaste literally lasted for minutes and is one of the finest 40 year olds, in memory.  95 points (10/22/05)

That evening, I returned with Stephen who had just arrived and was one of the gents from our tour.  This was going to be a great initiation into the various styles of Port.  I handpicked six unique wines, five of which were from producers I was unfamiliar with and hoped they’d make for an interesting tasting.  Gustavo poured two extra Ports that he said we must try and discussed the specifics of the wines from producers that we were not familiar with.  Along with a trio of Canadian friends, Matt and Sheila Blackman and their adorable three year old daughter Madison that I had met during my earlier visit to Vinologia, we spent the next few hours tasting and evaluating these eight Ports.

2000 Quinta da Prelada LBV – the actual Quinta was established in 1757, yet they were growers for other Shippers until very recently.  In fact, they are the latest of the new breed of independent Port producers, having marketed their own label for the first time this year.  Medium ruby color with a lighter rim, a nose of Kirsch and primary grape, the Prelada delivered promising young flavors of strawberry with a dollop of grenadine.  It offered generous forward fruit with a medium body and moderate length on the finish.  87 points (10/22/05)

1987 Quinta de Baldias LBV – this Traditional LBV was bottled in 1993 which is impressive as most LBVs tend towards the minimum of 4 years rather than taking on the expense of six years in wood.  This effort from Jose M. Barros, showed a very spicy nose with some cinnamon, quite light in body and smooth in texture, a bit simple on the mid-palate with plum and raisin flavors and a rather short finish.  85 points (10/22/05)

1958 Porto Valriz Colheita – bottled in 1984.  Light golden color with an intense nose of smoky, charred wood in a campfire and vanilla extract.  Soft and elegant with toffee and pralines, smooth on the mouth feel and provides a delicious medium length to the aftertaste.  Great nose, tasty but somewhat simple on the palate, possibly due to only two grapes in the blend.  89 points (10/22/05)

2001 Rol Roi Reserva – “meio seco” bottled in 2003 – Produced by Roseira and Ricou. And only 3,750 bottles produced.  A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz.  From the smallest independent producer in the Douro.  Blackberry brandy and cassis with a medium body and a bit grapey.  Medium length to the finish.  87 points (10/22/05)

Quinta do Vallado 20 year old Tawny Port – Until a dozen years ago, this producer sold their grapes to Ferreira for their Ports.  In ’93 they started to label their own wines and a year later began a rigorous replanting of the estate.  This Tawny is light tan in color with almonds and orange zest aromatics.  Soft and smooth on the palate with candied almond and hazelnut flavors.  A fresh and persistent finish.  This is a lovely 20 year old and well worth buying.  91 points (10/22/05)

Casa de Santa Eufemia Special Reserve White Port – this white Port includes the grapes from 1972, and was produced by Jose Viseu Carvalho & Filhos, Lda. who own 40 hectares in the Baixo Corgo. Orange/amber color. Amost no spirit showing and this was a fabulous White Port and quite unique.  Almond and dried apricot nuances and with terrific balance and a superb aftertaste.  93 points (10/22/05)

2000 Sao Pedro Das Aguas Vintage Port – from SPR Vinhos, Franken Monopole in France.  Located in the Lamego area of the Douro, this interesting VP showed dark purple in color and was fully opaque.  It had a full body was smooth on the palate and was a bit simple, with a very good finish.  A nice surprise, but lacked the structural components to cellar for the long term.  Drink now.  89 points (10/22/05)

CJ Casal dos Jordoes “Organic” 10 year old Tawny Port – I was told that this is the only certified organic Port made.  I did not get to write much on this one, but did write, “one of the most complex and delicious 10 year old Tawnies I have ever experienced.”  The fact that it is also organically grown is even more impressive, as is the rich and sumptuous lingering finish.  92 points (10/22/05)

The following night Mario and I met with the group to have dinner and I wanted to share Presuntisco with them.  To whet our palates, we began with a tasting up in the Dalva Lodge and had the opportunity to try the following wines:

1975 Porto Dalva Colheita Port – bottled in 2005.  Fawn color with a yellowish green tinge on the rim.  Notes of unblanched almonds, citrus, leather and toasted coconut.  Medium body weight and smooth on the palate, I would have liked to sense a bit more acidity in this Colheita.  Moderate length to the otherwise lush and nutty finish.  89 points (10/23/05)

Porto Dalva 20 year old Tawny – bottled 2005.  Barely pink-ruby centered with caramel color band towards the yellow edge.  The aromatics were somewhat reserved initially opening to show grapefruit and maple syrup with a tangerine peel backdrop.  Full-bodied and velvety on the mouth feel, with full throttle, rich and viscous nectar of honey, citrus and pine nuts with an extremely long finish that was rich and silky.  92 points (10/23/05)

1952 Porto Dalva White Colheita Port – bottled in 2005.              I was really anxious to see what the others felt about this wine that I had loved, two nights before.  Dark amber with a yellow meniscus; this offered a sea mist and lemony, bees wax aroma.  Great minerality and Asian spice along with a generous but medium body.  Slightly drying on the finish in a Madeira sensuality and shared the length of a great Madeira as well.  Not surprisingly, the others were intrigued by their first ever White Colheita and loved the wine too.  95 points (10/23/05)

Dinner at Presuntisco was well received and it was a great way to welcome our guests to Oporto.  The next day was the official beginning of the Port tour of duty!

FERREIRA

Monday morning brought a sunny day and a beautiful view from our hotel.  We got an early start due to our ambitious plans for the day.  Our first visit was in Vila Nova de Gaia at the A.A. Ferreira Lodge.  We were met by one of the most brilliant and charming women in the Port trade, Ligia Marques.

We were given the historical background of Ferreira and told that it was the first Portuguese family-owned Port Company, originally held by a group of winemakers.  The Lodge we were in, had stood for well over 200 years in this place although it used to extend much closer to the waterfront, making it easier to roll the Port “pipes” (casks) off the Barco Rabelos (boats) and directly into the Lodge itself.

Up in the Douro, the 21^st Feitoria (or Pombalino stone) was placed next to Ferreira’s property in 1758.  Ferreira owns 250,000 hectares of which 30,000 are planted to grapes.  The parent company of Ferreira (Casa Ferreirinha (Grupo Sogrape) controls many other Port as well as table wine related ventures like the famous Barca Velha.  This was Portugal’s first premium non-fortified red wine, produced from the grapes of the Douro which was first bottled in 1952.  Ligia provided an excellent historical insight into the eminence of Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira, a figure so prominent in the Port industry, that no space I can dedicate here could possibly do her legend justice.

As important as Ferreira’s history is, the future seems every bit as promising.  Quinta do Seixo, Quinta do Porto, Quinta do Caêdo, and Quinta da Leda (in Portuguese, Leda means a place of *joy and divine partying*) are properties that are now relied on heavily by Ferreira.  When I asked about the recently finished 2005 harvest at Ferreira’s properties, we learned that picking began on the first of September and finished on October 4^th.  There was very good weather and it rained only one afternoon in mid-September during the harvest itself.  The grapes were small, concentrated and blessed with excellent natural acidity.  The overall assessment is that the grapes harvested were of very good quality.

We had the opportunity to try a nice range of Ferreira’s Douro wines and Ports in a tasting presented by the Director of Enology for Sogrape Vinhos, S.A., Jose Maria d’Orey Soares Franco.  Tasting Port in Vila Nova de Gaia somehow is far more impressive then sitting in my dining room or that of any of my friends.  Wait until you see the picture of the view that we looked out upon while discerning the color of the wine in our glass.  Simply remarkable!

2004 Quinta da Leda, Vinha do Ribeira – made from 40% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, and 30% Tinta Roriz.  Nicely perfumed, dry and slightly tart red berry fruit that has a rustic quality, although it is obviously still quite young and not yet released.  A solid, elegant finish offers promise for this wine’s future.  n/r (10/24/05)

2004 Quinta da Leda, Vinha do Pombal – Touriga Franca makes up approximately 40-45% of the blend, followed by Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz both comprising between 25-30% of the cuvee.  It shows more reticent aromatics, greater concentration and ripe flavors, offers firmer tannins and structure at this stage and an overall feeling that this is going to flesh out to be one massive wine.  Not yet released.  n/r (10/24/05)

2003 Quinta da Leda Tinto – a property of 105 hectares in the Douro Superior very close to where the Douro River meets Spain.  Originally planted to field blends like much of the Douro, replanting began in 1978/1979 and grape varieties are now segregated.  This property’s grapes are now the backbone of Barca Velha since Quinta do Vale Meão started to bottle wine (and Port) under their own label.  For the 2003, the blend was made up of 1/3 each Touriga Naciona, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca grapes that were all picked separately but vinified together.  Inky and opaque garnet color.  A great whiff of fresh flowers and ripe plums is bolstered by grenadine and blackberry with a gentle kiss of oak.  I really enjoyed this baby and although the tannins dominate at this early stage, there is enough finesse on the finish here that this will turn out to be a very nice drink.  Don’t open until 2007+ 92 points (10/24/05)

Ferreira White Port – I recently had the Lagrima which is the sweetest style of White Port made and it was not to my liking and I’ll try another bottle to see if it was possibly an off bottle.  On this day, we were trying their most basic White Port and I found some citrus and tropical notes in this wine, which I liked considerably better than the Lagrima.  There was an odd banana note here and it was still too sweet for my liking, but had the alcohol in balance and possessed a long finish.  84 points (10/24/05)

1999 Ferreira LBV Port – this is a smooth and easy to enjoy LBV, with a medium body, soft mouth feel, slightly grapy flavors and a touch of alcohol that heats up the finish that otherwise offers good length.  87 points (10/24/05)

2000 Ferreira LBV Port – I enjoyed this significantly more than the ’99.  It offers an immediately approachable style, with blackberry and plum flavors that are very ripe.  The mild tannins and an overall fine structure are in synch with this overt fruit-forward LBV.  90 points (10/24/05)

2003 Ferreira Vintage Port – I liked this go round slightly more than the 2003 cask sample I spent a few days with back in July.  It has gained a little weight yet is still medium-bodied.  I had a better sense of the structural components and it did not show as hot on the finish.  Enjoyable and approachable now.  90 points (10/24/05)

Quinta do Porto 10 year old Tawny Port – this is truly a single Quinta Tawny Port,  Light ruby centered with a dark bricking on the rim, this offers not only an overall impressive balance, but a wonderfully smooth palate presence.  If that all sounds good, wait until you sense the incredible finesse and length on the finish here.  What more can one ask from a 10 year old Tawny?  Wow!  93 points (10/24/05)

Ferreira’s Duque de Braganca, 20 year old Tawny Port – this was the second time I tasted this beauty within my first 3 days in Portugal.  It always has been my favorite 20 year old Tawny Port.  Ferreira claims that their costly, yet competitive edge comes from the fact that they blend in a higher average age of old Tawny and therefore it exceeds that of other 20 year olds.  Regardless, it hits my sweet spot and I love it.  94 points (10/24/05)

The Ferreira tasting room looking back across the Douro River at Oporto
© copyright 2006 by Roy Hersh

We then went to see the ancient Port cellar within the Ferreira complex.  It always amazes me how many buildings there are in these complexes and how large the Lodges really are once you get inside.  Over the years, I have had more old bottles of Ferreira Vintage Port than from any other Shipper, the oldest being a bottle of 1830 a number of years ago.  However, this was my first time visiting the historic property where Dona Antonia’s legacy lives on, which was the perfect way to kick off our week-long exploration.  It was wonderful to see the excitement of the folks who had joined us on the tour.  The fun had just begun!

COCKBURN

Our next visit was to Cockburn’s Lodge, one of the great names in the Port trade.  Sorry, but the real pronunciation is Coh-burn (like the actor James), contrary to its spelling.  This historic firm was established in 1815 and we were told that they’re the largest owners of vineyard acreage in the entire Alto Douro.  After a few turbulent decades of being bought and sold numerous times, (along with sister company Martinez Gassiot) the current ownership group is deep-pocketed beverage behemoth, Allied Domecq.

Cockburn owns at least six properties in the Douro that I am aware of, the most famous of which is the gem known as Quinta do Tua, which is in close proximity to the Tua River.  Since 1989, they’ve also owned Quinta dos Canais which grows intensely concentrated grapes, across from Quinta de Vargellas on the opposite river bank.  Cockburn will bottle Single Quinta Vintage Ports from these two particular properties.  The majority of their holdings are in the Douro Superior and they're located on the North side of the river in the far eastern section of the Douro.  Many hectares are planted “vinha ao alta” (in vertical rows, a method first employed by Ferreira) in the remote flat lands far North of the river bank.  Cockburn is able to incorporate mechanized farming with the help of tractors in the vineyards, that would not be possible on steeply terraced hillsides elsewhere in the Douro.

Since the late 1970s, they have made great strides in replanting efforts and are one of the most progressive when it comes to planting in varietal blocks to segregate the grape types.  In fact at one of their properties, they have100 hectares solely dedicated to Touriga Nacional, which shows a significant commitment to this grape.  Lots of credit goes to Miguel Corte Real (Commercial & Viticultural Director), one of Portugal’s most brilliant viticultural talents.  He is a leading expert in canopy management and clonal selections and lectures at symposiums on these and other vineyard related topics, around the world.

Our group was treated exceptionally well and had an excellent lunch with their management team including Miguel, their General Manager and a few others.  We were running short on time but went to see their amazing moldy cellar looking at awe inspiring ancient bottles.  I was sad to miss the renowned bottling facility at Quinta de Santo Antonio, but there is always next time.

Cockburn’s Port folio -

Light Dry White Port – a fun White to nose, this fortified wine was reminiscent of golden raisins.  It delivered delicate peach flavors in an off-dry style with enough sweet fruit that this would pair well with many shellfish appetizers.  Gentle and medium length to the finish.  85 points (10/24/05)

Cockburn’s “Special Reserve” Port – I have had this wine many times at trade tastings.  Spicy raspberry and a mocha nuance show the house style for which this wine in particular has become the standard bearer.  A gentle and warming, mostly dry finish persists.  It is the number one selling Reserve (this category used to be called “Vintage Character”) and world wide sales approach 250,000 cases a year.  88 points (10/24/05)

2000 Cockburn’s LBV Port – generous plum and cherry flavors that are smooth while rolling around in the mouth.  There is a slight alcoholic heat kick, but otherwise round and polished, this LBV delivers a soft and long finish but again, the alcohol shows up here too.   87 points (10/24/05)

Cockburn’s 10 year old Tawny Port – orange-light ruby in color with a beige colored rim.  Sweet nose of maple syrup, chestnut and ripe orange.  Great aromatics!  Medium bodied with fresh ruby fruit and just slightly nutty flavors and a hint of vanilla on the extroverted aftertaste that ends up quite dry in style.  88 points (10/24/05)

Cockburn’s 20 year old Tawny Port – just slightly lighter in color towards the center than the 10 year old.  This Cockburn Tawny offers fresh and clean nutty nuances on the nose with a bit off toffee.  The medium body and soft silky elegance to this delicious wine is really fine and concentrated.  The honeyed walnut flavor provides excellent length on the finish with velvety butterscotch on the aftertaste.  A nice flavor progression from the 10 year old Tawny and a step up in drinking pleasure.  92 points (10/24/05)

2003 Cockburn’s Vintage Port – intriguing nose of leather, cassis and blackberries translate to a smooth palate with medium tannins and ripe, sweet blackberries and vanilla.  It has not evolved far from my cask sample early last summer.  92 points (10/24/05)

2003 Cockburn’s Quinta dos Canais Vintage Port – 15% of the Canais grapes went into the Cockburn VP.  Dark color shows no signs of evolution with a nose that explodes with raisin, spice and chocolate.  Easy to approach, with sweet and juicy blueberry and plum flavors.  The body weight is medium and the tannins only rear their head upon the finish, which is quite pleasant and persistent.  The alcohol has calmed down a bit too and has made this Port considerably more balanced and enjoyable.  92 points (10/24/05)

2003 Martinez Vintage Port – very dark purplish in color and fully opaque.  Complex aromas of blueberry, tar, dark chocolate and just a hint of anise.  On the palate, ripe and flavor filled boysenberry and blueberry that tends toward the dry side of the spectrum.  The structure here is sound although the tannins are quite round at this stage.  2,000 cases produced.  90 points (10/24/05)

2004 Cockburn’s Vintage Port – COMPONENT tasting: Touriga Franca – violets stand out with other fresh floral aromatics.  Tight knit structure here will offer definition to the eventual cuvee.  (10/24/05)

2004 Cockburn’s Vintage Port – COMPONENT tasting: Touriga Nacional – more subdued aromas but the dark berry flavors are far more pronounced and sweet.  I was surprised that this seemed more elegant and softer than the Franca sample.  (10/24/05)

During lunch we learned a great deal more about the history of Cockburn’s and were able to have many of our questions answered at this time.  At the end of our lunch the tradition of passing around a decanter of “mystery Port” took place.  We all had to guess and of course yours truly was first.  Given the color and nose of the wine, I felt it was something from the mid-late 1940s.  But this was a deftly thrown curve ball.  I swung for the fences but looked silly with my swing.  In fact, it was a Vintage Port that I never realized existed, as I have never seen the wine itself mentioned or a single tasting note anywhere.

1977 Cockburn’s Vintage Port – Say it ain’t so!  From reading, I knew of Cockburn’s decision not to declare their 1977 VP and management chose instead, to utilize their excellent grapes to support their earliest effort to launch and stock up on the now world famous, “Special Reserve” Port.  Therefore, I never knew that any bottles actually existed, which made this even funnier.  Even if I had, I never would have guessed this wine’s age.  There were actually 1,500 bottles produced and 900 are now left in the Cockburn cellars, only to be consumed on their premises with special guests. The ’77 showed a light ruby with significant bricking on the rim.  This is soft, smooth and very elegant with light, dried cherry fruit bolstered by toasty almond nuances that belie its youth.  A mature and complex Port, which is not only tasty, but the finish is fabulous and multi-layered.  It could have been a contender.  93 points (10/24/05)

After bidding our friends at Cockburn’s a warm adieu, we headed back to Mario’s old workplace the Port and Douro Wine Institute (IVDP) for a tour and incredible couple of hours seeing their laboratories, tasting rooms and had an informative session with a few of their managers.  What I always enjoy most is listening to the methodology that is utilized in blind tasting the wines.  There is a panel of seven professional tasters that work individually in evaluating the Ports that are seeking approval.  We learned about each of the specific organoleptic (sensorial) qualifications and how the tasters use a computerized data sheet to input their analysis.  There is much more to this and it was fascinating to see in person.  One gets a significant comfort level when you see all of the checks and balance in place, to ensure that approved wines have been thoroughly screened before the IVDP stamp of approval is given to the specific Port.

David Spriggs, Mario Ferreira & Frédérick Blais

SANDEMAN

As our group had not yet had our fill of Port wine today, it was time to head to the Sandeman Lodge which was now closed to the public.  We met up with our friend Ligia there, as Sandeman is part of the Sogrape portfolio since earlier in the decade.  It was fun to see our guest’s eyes light up when we walked into the Sandeman Port Museum within the Lodge.  A “must see” spot in Gaia, this museum has a permanent exhibit but also has new from time to time.  In fact since my last visit in 2003, at least half of the objects were new.  The historic artifacts that surrounded us here was really eye catching and the more serious you are as a Port enthusiast, the more you appreciate what is in this gallery.

After explaining the diverse artifacts and remarkably well-preserved advertisements, Ligia then guided us through the cavernous Lodge.  Our guests had the opportunity to view the massive Sandeman Port holdings in pipe and huge wooden tanks, as well as the ancient “library” of Vintage Ports remaining in the cellar.  It was at this point that we were joined by our hosts, Mr. and Mrs. George Sandeman.  I have known George for over a decade and find him one of the most refreshing personalities in the Port trade.  He has an irreverent sense of humor, does not shy away from politics and never circumvents a controversial question.  He leads the seventh generation of the House of Sandeman (est. 1790) which is also known for its Sherry holdings in Jerez, Spain and wines in Madeira.  Before we all sat down to a most enjoyable dinner, we retreated to one of the great old rooms in the Lodge for a fun tasting of some recent Ports.  Dinner was excellent as were the accompanying wines.  On this night our conversations were so engaging that I did not take notes on the dinner wines, with the exception of course, the Vintage Port which accompanied dessert.

1999 Sandeman LBV Port – I rather enjoyed this LBV and besides just a touch of alcohol protruding, there were bright red fruit aromas and a touch of cinnamon spice.  Rich and ripe raspberry intertwined with sweet strawberry flavors, which show a bit grapey on the finish but overall, still quite enjoyable.  Round tannins keep this immediately approachable.  88 points (10/24/05)

2000 Sandeman Vau Vintage Port – This has improved since it was a cask sample and the grip is far more pronounced whereas the tannins were reserved earlier in its life.  Dark magenta color, floral note with molasses and pomegranate aromas.  Great mouthfeel and smooth texturally speaking.  Expressive fresh purple fruits, good grip and a longer life ahead than I had expected early on.   91 points (10/24/05)

2000 Sandeman Vintage Port - Swirling aromas of cassis, figs and a spice that I know but can't identify. Smooth and viscous on the palate with chewy black fruits that are ripe, yet not too sweet.  It is a well-balanced Port that is impressive today, but will reward patience as the tannins are still quite powerful.  Extremely long and satisfying finish. This hits the pleasure zone big time.   93 points (10/24/05)

2003 Sandeman Vintage Port - Dark ruby color.  Floral notes, grenadine and spicy aromas are really enjoyable and lead to a palate of intense purple fruits brimming with dense plum and grape flavors that dominate the palate.  It shows a very smooth texture in the mouth, with full body and ample tannins to take this for a long ride as does the aftertaste.  91 points (10/24/05)

1967 Sandeman Vintage Port – There is a first time for everything.  This gentle giant is one of the very best of the Ports I have had from the lackluster 1967 vintage, which managed to produce a few very well-made VPs.  The Sandeman is still in great shape.  Due to the lighting it is impossible to tell the color.  The aromatics dance out of the glass with ultra-potent, sweet violet and floral notes with a hint of mocha.  The flavors of ripe plums, figs and maple lead to a bittersweet chocolate nuance on the extremely long finish.  This ’67 is a smooth operator with finesse and delivers a super smooth palate presence.  This still has a good decade ahead of it too. 93 points (10/24/05)

Our first day of the trip as described in the last newsletter, seemed as long as a television season of the hit show “24” but it really flew by.  Onto day 2 and our first visit took us to the Fonseca Lodge.

THE FLADGATE PARTNERSHIP:

We arrived at the large and very distinguished Fonseca Lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia and were met by David Guimaraens.  I’ve known David for quite a few years and he is the sixth generation of the Guimaraens family to be involved with Fonseca Guimaraens.  He is the son of the legendary Bruce Guimaraens who provided some of my earliest Port inspiration and one of the greatest raconteurs I’ve ever met.  David is a brilliant winemaker in his own right, having apprenticed in California, Oregon and Australia before his formal training at South Australia’s Roseworthy Agricultural College, (one of the finest oenology schools in the world).  He oversees the winemaking and blending for the Fladgate Partnership’s four Port houses: Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca Guimaraens, Croft and Delaforce.

We spent some time discussing various Port topics and the group was fascinated by the wealth of knowledge that David possesses and was willing to share.  Topics ranged from the micro-oxygenation which takes place in the lagares during treading, to the difference between robotic plungers versus robotic feet, to nuances of tannins and anthrocyanins in various Port grapes, to how new plantings are now segregated by grape variety, to the improvements in the vineyards and understanding of terroir and site selection for specific grapes, to the challenges of blending Port and how that process really begins in the vineyard … and MUCH more.  It was like taking a class in Port.

The principal owner of the Fladgate Partnership, Alistair Robertson and his daughter Natasha came to meet the group.  It was very generous of them to take the time to do so and was much appreciated.  Natasha has an excellent palate and nose for the Port business and plays a significant role in the blending of the Ports.  The various branches of the family tree have intertwined over the centuries and can trace their ancestry and history in the Port trade back to Job Bearsley in 1692.  It is an impressive group that is known worldwide for producing some of the greatest Ports ever vinified.

We then had a couple of hours to try an impressive array of White, Tawny, Colheita, LBV and Vintage Ports.  The lineup was deep and my sincere thanks to David and the Robertson family for their incredible hospitality.  (Note:  This is a shortened version of the tasting, as I won’t get to write about every wine we tasted on this trip.  The most recent newsletter contained over 40 Port tasting notes and that report ended with just the first day of our trip, spanning more than 20 pages.  No one has ever accused me of being concise.).

Without further ado, on to the Ports:

Croft’s  “Distinction”  Special Reserve Port –  young, primary, soft and approachable.  Enjoyable aromas of mocha and black currants, with slightly grapy and plum flavors.  It is light-medium bodied and easy to pour and enjoy now.  Medium length to the finish that offers nice chocolate notes on the aftertaste, along with a touch of spirit.  86 points (10/25/05)

1999 Croft LBV Port – very dark ruby color with plum, floral and a cedar component on the nose.  Medium-rich LBV with dark cherry, chocolate covered raisins and bright red berry flavors.  Smooth on the palate and offers fine length on the finish, with just a touch of heat.  87 points (10/25/05)

2000 Fonseca LBV Port – dark ruby color, offers rose petals, dark berries and a hint of alcohol on the nose.  I enjoyed this approachable, sweet and simple style of LBV.  It shows blackberry and a peppery streak on the palate, nicely balanced with moderate tannins that come to play on the smooth, spicy finish.  89 points (10/25/05)

2000 Taylor LBV Port – dark ruby and fully opaque appearance, firmer and more powerful than its sister Fonseca, also a bit more viscous and rich on the smooth mouth feel.  The Taylor was a pleasure to drink and is not a shy LBV.  This had really nice palate presence, excellent balance and offered ripe, chewy plum fruit and a luscious aftertaste. 90 points  (10/25/05)

1995 Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port – I’ve had this quite a few times before and like it almost as much as the Vinha Velha version from ’95 which is a head turner.  Stylized aromas of violets, graphite and earthy red berry fruit that offer great complexity and kept my nose close to the glass.  A dense, rich and memorable Vargellas, the ’95 is one of the greatest Ports of the vintage.  This is a mouth filling beauty that delivers smooth boysenberry, tar and mocha flavors with chewy tannins and fine structural components.  The power packs a wallop on the finish that goes on and on.  Lots of upside to keeping this one in the cellar. 94 points (10/25/05)

1987 Fonseca-Guimaraens Vintage Port – medium red color with a lighter rim.  Nice aromas of spice, plums and a smoky note that I really was intrigued by.  It has been a couple of years since I’ve had this Guimaraens bottling.  Flavors of spicy raspberry, black cherry and licorice add to the complexity of this VP that is in full stride today.  Good grip and structure overall that leads to a medium finish.  From 1987, I prefer the Quinta de Vargellas which is in my Top Ten Ports of the 1980s and one of my all-time favorite SQVPs.  91 points  (10/25/05)

2003 Fonseca Vintage Port – inky magenta colored.  There is a nice evolution from when I had this several times as a cask sample (back in June and July of ’05) and it is mostly noticeable on the nose.  Perfumed berry flavors and spice prevail.  Smooth, rich and incredibly dense VP that distinguishes itself with elevated ripe boysenberry and plum flavors, sweet and lasting on the palate.  The tannins are less dominant than earlier tastings and the finish is incredible.  A massive Vintage Port that will delight for decades to come.  98 points (10/25/05)

2003 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port – The Taylor is far more giving now, than the very hard to elucidate cask samples I tried earlier in the year.  Floral scented with black currant fruit and raisin aromas.  More power and less friendly than Fonseca at the moment and probably for years to come.  I like the potential greatness of this huge, dense and chewy monster of a VP.  What an excellent birth year wine … for the grandkids.  The tannins so thoroughly coat one’s entire mouth that Taylor should sell this along with a toothbrush.  Wow! 97 points  (10/25/05)

Delaforce “Curious and Ancient” 20 year old Tawny Port – Nutty nuances abound in this well-made Tawny with whiffs of grandfather’s pipe tobacco, toffee, dates and cedar.  It is a fine 20 year old that provides a light elegant style as well as flavors of prunes and hazelnuts with a cinnamon sugar coating.  The smooth approach is supported by a fine nuttiness and vibrant acidity that linger long after swallowing.   92 points (10/25/05)

Taylor 40 year old Tawny Port – A beautiful maple syrup color with a yellowish meniscus.  I have not had this in years and it was like revisiting an old friend.  My favorite of all Taylor Tawny Ports and one of the greatest 40 year olds.   Fragrant caramelized sugar, coffee and toasted almonds provide an ethereal combination.  Sumptuous and rich on the palate with elegance throughout, and it ends like a favorite novel.   94 points (10/25/05)

1944 Delaforce Colheita Port – Describing the color is not easy as there’s a brownish-orange core with a yellowish-green edge that is pretty to look at.  Exotic orange peel, spice and dates offer a unique nose.  Like a great Boal, rich and viscous with a fabulous dose of acidity providing the backbone to this delicious and warming Colheita that keeps on going long after the last sip.   93 points (10/25/05)

1952 Delaforce Colheita Port – Coffee color.  Delivers penetrating tang of mandarin orange, toffee and burnt caramel.  Even thicker than the ’44 and sweeter as well, this is the Malmsey version.  Fantastic symmetry and flavors with a very memorable finish.  I poured more of this before departing the Lodge after a couple of dozen Port … it was that tasty.  95 points (10/25/05)

1986 Delaforce Colheita Port – Orange-tawny color.   It had an impossible act to follow given the 34 year age difference and the quality of the previous Delaforce diamond.  Much less development on the palate.  Somewhat simple and still in need of time, this Colheita does offer some nutty flavors and a slight bitter note on the medium length finish. 89 points (10/25/05)

* The notes here represent just a cross-section of our tasting.   When time permits, I’ll add the balance to the FTLOP Tasting Note archives.

After the generous hospitality and educational visit with the Fladgate Partnership, it was time for lunch.  I don’t know about the others, but I was starving.  We had an appointment to have lunch at the Palácio da Bolsa, which is the old stock market and where the IVDP Confraria enthronements take place.  It is a majestic old building with a restaurant on the premises, where we were to meet a pair of young Port makers, each with their own small production.

João Russo Monteiro presented his wines from Quinta da Fonte Nova.  The property has been around for a century.  We first tried a pair of João’s Douro reds, followed by a Vintage Port:

2003 Vinhas de Soutelo Douro Red – Fully opaque, deeply extracted dark burgundy color.  This medium-bodied wine sees no time in wood and shows a freshness and smoky cherry notes initially.  This is a rustic wine that needs at least two more years to be enjoyable.  Today it is dry and tannic with moderate length to the finish and is tough to appreciate at this point.  84 points (10/25/05)

2003 Arrobeiros Reserva Douro red – A blend with more promise, utilizing both French and American oak with dark berry flavors and a smoother approach.  The structure of this wine is more to my liking.  85 points (10/25/05)

2000 Quinta da Fonte Nova Vintage Port – Dark ruby color but very light bodied for such a young VP from a terrific vintage.  This was a pleasant, serviceable Port, but honestly not one that I would buy, especially given the choices in 2000 VPs.   80 points (10/25/05)

Also joining us for lunch was Jose Antonio Mendes of Quinta do Javali to present three wines.  I was quite enamored with this lineup considering I had barely heard the name Javali before.  Discoveries like this make the trip to Portugal, even more enjoyable.

2003 Quinta do Javali Reserva Douro red – A blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Tinto Cao aged in French oak. Javali’s Douro red wine exhibits wild berry and anise aromas.  It is soft and approachable and a very enjoyable drink.  A nice food wine too with subtle tannins and a lingering aftertaste.   87 points (10/25/05)

Quinta do Javali Special Ruby Reserva Port – Sadly, I did not take good notes on this wine.  I just wrote, “very good for a ruby.” 86 points (10/25/05)

2001 Quinta do Javali LBV Port – Impressive!  Dark purplish ruby color.  Nice red fruit and floral scents lead to a soft and very approachable, light-bodied Port with semi-sweet flavors and a great mouth feel.  No signs of spirit or tannins which is commendable in an LBV, especially a producer that most of us outside of Portugal have rarely if ever heard of.  A very tasty young Port which shows the promise of good things to come from Javali.   89 points (10/25/05)

After a delicious lunch and tasting through the six wines above, we had a nice walk back to the hotel and a little time to relax by the Ribeira.  Glad to be well rested before a big night out, it was time for a pre-prandial cruise on the Douro River.  It was a beautiful evening and we all thoroughly enjoyed the sites and had some simple ruby Port while checking out the scenery.  It is wonderful to see historic Vila Nova de Gaia’s majestic Port Lodges lined up along the river and winding up the narrow streets, from the vantage point of being on the river.  On the opposite bank of course is the city of Oporto.  Every Port lover must experience this at least once in their lifetime!

A Night with the Niepoorts:

Next, we met up with the dapper Dirk van der Niepoort and his charismatic wife, Dorli.  It was a nice surprise for our guests to meet the Niepoort’s who introduced us to a refined ristorante & wine bar, Degusto in nearby Matosinhos.  This attractive eatery was adjoined by an excellent wine shop that had an astonishing array of bottlings from around the globe. The restaurant’s decor was striking, from the elongated entryway to the chic dine-in bar area to the ultra-modern lighting in the dining room.  The ambience was stylish but the food was simply à point.  I later found out that Degusto had received the 2005 Wine Spectator, Award of Excellence, which did not surprise me, after perusing the smart wine list.  Congratulations to General Manager Paulo Espirito Santo, who is also a partner in this venture along with Dirk.  However, on this night, we stuck to Niepoort’s wines (along with a 1983 Hanzell Pinot Noir - CA, USA - which I brought over with me).

Onto the Niepoort wines:

2004 Niepoort Tiara Douro White – New to the lineup of white wine that Niepoort produces, the Tiara is a steely, mineral laden wine using the Douro’s Codega grape from a plot of old vines.  Dirk mentioned a flavor cross between Riesling and Chablis.  It sees no wood, has little contact with the grape skins and fermentation was challenging in this debut vintage.  A dry and light-bodied white, that is perfect as an aperitif or with appetizers.  The peach and citrus were balanced by zesty acidity and a fine finish.  Drink it young. 90 points (10/25/05)

2004 Niepoort Redoma Reserva Douro red – Is this the Douro’s version of Meursault?  Maybe the 60 year old vines had something to do with the complexity of this wine.  One of the smoothest, best balanced and opulent whites I have tasted from the region.  When the oak fully integrates, it is going to be a knock out.  Darn good right now though, I’d wait a year or two.  92 points (10/25/05)

2003 Niepoort Vertente Douro red – Although I like the 2001 Vertente quite a bit (bottle age doesn’t hurt) I prefer this younger version, a well-made red that offers smoky, spicy plum notes.  It offers a big, ripe, black fruit driven palate presence and having lots of Touriga Nacional is a good thing here.  Reminds me of young Ridge Geyserville in some ways and you gotta love the chocolate note on the finish, with a hint of youthful spirit protruding.  88 points (10/25/05)

2003 Niepoort Batuta Douro red – The grapes from 60-100 year old vines are left on their skins for up to two months and then barrel fermented.  This (along with the Charme) has typically been my favorite Douro red of Dirk’s.  I was glad to taste this young pup but it really needs some cellaring to show its excellence, as the aromatics seemed tight as a snare drum.  Dark inky color, with big, ripe blackberry and currant flavors that are enormous and matched against massive tannins.  Revisit in at least three years.   94+ points (10/25/05)

1959 Niepoort Colheita Port – My first time trying this Colheita and it was extraordinary.  Light amber in color.  Notes of toffee, over ripe pineapple and hazelnuts swirl within the glass and are exotic.  The liquid pralines and hedonistic caramelized essence of this juice was remarkable unctuous on the palate with a long and very smooth finish.  I woke up the next day still thinking about this Port!   95 points  (10/25/05)

1977 Niepoort Vintage Port – This was one of the very last remaining Vintage Ports from the Niepoort collection that I had never tasted (from a renowned vintage, to be more accurate).  Medium dark ruby color.  Anise, spice and strawberry aromas leap out of the glass.  Showing ripe, sweet raspberry flavors with a mocha nuance.  Finely interwoven tannins and seamless acidity provide for a smooth sailing with this complex VP.  Although the tannins seem quite resolved, I believe this Port’s best years are still a decade away.   93+ points (10/25/05)

At the end of the evening, we thanked the Niepoort’s for a tremendous experience and it would be less than 10 hours later that we’d be visiting with Dirk at his Gaia-based Lodge.  Day two was now officially over and with another forty Douro reds and Ports under our belt, it was a guarantee that we’d sleep well.

DAY 3

Niepoort revisited:

There is nothing like drinking Port within an hour of finishing breakfast.  I will not share how often this has been the case over the course of many years of “enthusiasm.”  Today would be no exception.  Dirk was quite chipper and the group was up to the task to try some recent vintages of Port, but mostly, they were very eager to see the historic Lodge of the Niepoort family and have the chance to be schooled by Dirk.  Having been to this unique facility in the past, the highlight was getting to meet Dirk’s sister Verena, who is now an active participant in the family run business (the 5^th generation of the Dutch family, in the Port trade).  It is nice to know that Dirk will have another family member in the business, to share in the tradition of Port and the legacy of the name Niepoort.

Dirk’s father Rolf and their ancestors, believed in buying high quality grapes to make their Port wine.  Dirk always the contrarian, decided to become a land owner in the Douro some years ago and has taken part in a number of ventures with Quintas and specific vineyard sites that have featured old vines.  He believes that by improving the viticultural practices, (beyond the weather conditions) he can positively influence the quality of the Port and Douro wine production.  His newest and very promising vineyard sites is called PISCA, which is a 5.5 hectare vineyard with 80+ year old vines that are planted to field blends, near Pinhao.  Dirk laughs and mentions, “I have an allergy to young wine.”

Did I mention that Dirk is a contrarian?  He states, “We are growing Pinot Noir in the Douro, but it is a project that I will take more seriously in the future.”  A Douro Pinot?  It has a ring to it and if anybody could pull this off in the heat of the Douro, I’d bet on Dirk to figure out a way.  Niepoort is a well known fanatic for acidity, which speaks to his love of German Rieslings.  He goes out of his way to avoid having to “correct” acidity levels in his wines, limiting the use of Tartaric acid.  He explains that, “spirit can destroy acidity balance at times.”  Just to give an idea how much Dirk cares about the quality of his Vintage Ports (not to mention Colheitas/Garrafeiras and Douro wines), in 2003, he discarded 30,000 liters of grapes that he felt were over ripened.

So what is the future for Niepoort?  In a word: bright.  Dirk is unassuming yet confident and is making some of the best wine and Port in the country!  He is proud that his sister has joined the company and will be a huge help in handling many of the details of running the business.  Dirk has been on the cutting edge when it comes to white and red wine production from the Douro.  He currently has at least eight Douro wines that I can think of and he remains committed to being one of the leaders in the Douro table wine movement.  With Port, Niepoort is considering making his unique Garrafeiras, (aged in demijohns, Niepoort is the ONLY producer currently making this style of Port) three or four times per decade.  Along with that departure, he’d like to make around 30,000 liters of Colheita, every year weather permitting.  I have met a large number of people in the Port trade, but few are as involved in so many projects simultaneously, as this warm and gregarious man.

Onto a few “morning” Ports:

2000 Niepoort LBV Port –  Medium ruby color, light to medium bodied with spicy and approachable sweet raspberry fruit, tar and cedar.  Soft and seemingly more mature than a 2000 LBV.  It is an elegant and easy-to-drink style and not the big fruit forward or tannic LBV type.  I particularly liked the aftertaste that stayed with me for longer than most LBVs normally do.    89 points (10/26/05)

2003 Niepoort Secundum Vintage Port – bing cherry, spice and chocolate scents provide a more giving nose than the cask sample I tried months earlier.  Harmonious and well-balanced, with lively tannins that seem more potent today.  Drink now or hold two decades. 93 points (10/26/05)

2003 Niepoort Vintage Port – Fully opaque and inky appearance.  Ripe plum and pure blueberry flavors dominate the palate with dense and chewy mouthfuls of jammy juice.  Then the punishing tannins kick in.  Whoa!  This is one extroverted VP that will deliver drinking pleasures for most of this century.  The finish is incredibly persistent.  97+ points (10/26/05)

What a great ending to the morning and visit with the Niepoort family.  The group members could not stop talking about the great experience in this particular Lodge and the pleasure in meeting Dirk.  Between the Douro wines and Colheita Ports the night before, and today’s young LBV and Vintage Ports, we had a full cross-section of the Niepoort port folio.

By now, our guests were starting to understand what was in store for the rest of the week, although we kept a few nice surprises tucked away.  I was glad that so far, stamina was not an issue, as tasting great Ports is a tough job.  No rest for the weary, we were off to the nearby Graham’s Lodge and a wonderful afternoon with the Symington Family.

Symington Family Estates:

The red carpet was rolled out for our group and three members of the Symington family were there to greet us. After introductions, we were led to a meeting room within the Graham’s Lodge in Gaia.  Paul Symington held court and literally provided us with a marketing seminar on the challenges facing the Port industry and how the Symington Family Estates’ team was progressively responding to opportunities in the market place.  It was a very impressive and educational session, to say the least.

The first thing I learned was that the Symington family members each own and manage vineyard properties and their grapes are supplied to the family owned Port companies.  Between the individual ownership and that of the family owned properties, they own a total of 15 Quintas which does not include their joint venture at Quinta de Roriz or Quinta de Perdiz; with approximately 1,300 hectares of prime vineyards and plenty of room for further planting when needed.

Some things to share:  Overall Port sales have declined world wide since 2000.  The top 6 Port markets are listed below:

*The figures above are for ALL categories of Port sold and do not equal 100% as “other countries” are not shown here.  The “value by market” shows which countries are buying the less expensive or more expensive Port styles and where the opportunities lie for the future.

Looking at the two most dominant Vintage Port markets, the US and UK, the numbers that follow are telling:

Overall, there are 20-25 hectoliters per hectare (somewhat low yields) for grapes used in Port production.

Looking at Bordeaux, the overall figure is 50 hectoliters per hectare.

It is quite obvious that the key to the future is selling more Port in the premium categories that improve margins on a per case basis.  This is the lifeblood of the Port industry and moving forward it will gain even more attention by the shippers and producers.  There is no question that the production costs in the Douro will continue to rise in years to come, as the scarcity in labor becomes ever more critical and costly.  The Port trade is in the midst of an exciting yet very difficult time and it will be interesting to watch its progress in the next decade and beyond.

VINTAGE PORT:  Total sales of VP in 2004 = 80,800 cases.

Total Sales of all Symington Family Estates VP = 17,400 cases.

We got into much more detail and statistical analysis and had the chance to ask lots of questions.  Our group learned that the Symington’s were the first to introduce robotic lagares in 1998 and now have sixteen of them located at four of their properties.  For the 2003 Vintage Ports, production utilizing the robotics amounted to sixty percent (>1.3 million liters) while traditional lagares made up the balance.  As the technology is still quite new, this change from foot treading to robotics is remarkable; given the typical glacial pace of change in the Douro.

Our sincere appreciation goes to Paul, for a remarkably stimulating and informative session.  We then joined Dominic, Peter, Paul and Johnny Symington for lunch in the Graham’s Lodge private dining room.  Lunch was exceptional as were the wines.  Special thanks to Dominic for devoting an entire afternoon to our group tasting and for providing some very special offerings.

Due to the huge number of Ports we tasted during our semi-formal tasting afterwards (30+ VPs), all tasting notes will be broken into 5 categories, exactly as they were poured

1. SINGLE QUINTA VINTAGE PORTS: a mini-horizontal of 2001 SQVPs and more -

1995 Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha Vintage Port – This is the property used as the backbone for Warre’s Ports.  I will never forget my first visit to this quaint and quiet Quinta in May of 1994.  Medium dark ruby color with intriguing notes of cassis, mocha and blackberry.  This medium-bodied Cavadinha provides dark berry fruit and chocolate flavours with good grip and a noteworthy finish, with just a touch of spirit.      90 points (10/26/05)

2001 Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha Vintage Port – Light ruby color with lifted red berry and fresh floral scents.  This is a delightfully approachable young SQVP that offers elegance along with spice, cedar and raspberry flavors, along with a smooth seamless quality and gentle palate presence.  This VP delivers lots of pleasure and light, round tannins that appear on the generous finish. 91 points (10/26/05)

1996 Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port – You never forget your first and Bomfim was my first Quinta stay over a decade ago.  This little known and vastly underappreciated vintage (which came on the heels of 1994 & 1995) produced some fine SQVPs.  The Bomfim is a fully opaque magenta colored wine.  It provides a great sense of minerality on the nose, as well as black licorice and dense, ripe plum flavors that are quite soft and texturally pleasing.  The medium tannins are noticed on the lengthy aftertaste that is slightly marred by alcohol on the finish. 89 points (10/26/05)

2001 Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port – There is a beautiful purplish-ruby hue to this youngster.  The aromatics are a bit reticent and dark berry, tar and alcohol are coaxed by vigorous swirling for a few minutes.  A very approachable young VP, even softer in the mouth than the 1996, with delicious plum and boysenberry that linger long on the palate.  Not one for the long term but very enjoyable today while waiting for the 2000s to come around. 91 points (10/26/05)

1998 Dow’s Senhora da Ribeira Vintage Port – My first taste of Senhora’s fruit which comes across with a very dark inky purple tone.  This property was first acquired by Dow’s in 1890 and along with Quinta do Bomfim, makes up the backbone of the Dow VPs.  Senhora da Ribeira is located in the most Eastern section of the Douro Superior, which is close to the Spanish border and receives very little rainfall and intense heat in the summer.  The vines get stressed and the Ports reflect their terroir.  Smoky and fresh floral notes with rich raspberry and dense strawberry flavors that are almost jammy, with chewy tannins and an intensity that I enjoyed.   This would be a nice addition to the cellar. 92 points (10/26/05)

2001 Dow’s Senhora da Ribeira Vintage Port – This property was re-purchased by the Symington Family in 1998 on the 200^th anniversary of Dow’s establishment.  It shows a fully opaque dark red color.  Beguiling nose of red berry fruits and grenadine syrup, while delivering dark cherry and pomegranate flavors that are tart and rustic.  There is a tad too much heat which blemished the modest length of the aftertaste and overall enjoyment.  It was hard for me to decipher if this is due to the youth or not.  87 points (10/26/05)

1996 Graham’s Malvedos Vintage Port – I was glad to get to try this wine as a friend back home had told me to find a bottle.  Wild earthy aroma as well as a mocha and blueberry note.  The palate delivers a sweet and dominant boysenberry profile that is reinforced by zesty acidity and ripe tannins.  This should make for solid drinking when it reaches 20 years old.   Powerful. 91 points (10/26/05)

2001 Graham’s Malvedos Vintage Port – Fully opaque shade of magenta.  A somewhat tight nose that came around to provide hints of violets, anise and cassis.  Big tannins were the first thing I noticed when tasting this VP.  The sweet blackberry fruit and milk chocolate are tasty but lack mid-palate interest.  Good length to the sweet yet simple finish. 90 points (10/26/05)

1997 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port – “Wow” was my first impression when sniffing and sipping this wine.  Impenetrable opacity to this wine’s appearance.  An herbal note and straight forward violet aromas punched my proboscis.  A massive wine, yet more approachable than expected from the ink in the glass, with ripe, chalky tannins but otherwise a gorgeous mouth feel.  Almost syrupy but the acidity prevents the viscous black currant fruit from seeming cloying.  With all of this, the best part of this Port is the sensational length and complexity to the aftertaste.  If you own a case, open a bottle tomorrow.  If you own a single bottle, wait fifteen to twenty years and drink it when it’s more mature. 94+ points (10/26/05)

2001 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port – Inky black-purple tinge.  Purple fruit essence with a touch of anise provides the initial intrigue.  More of a red fruit persuasion and much softer and easy to drink now than the 1997 tasted next to it.  It has modestly ripe tannins and it’s a gentle, approachable young Port with a medium length.  This is a Vesuvio with finesse, which is not how I normally describe this producer’s Vintage Port offerings. 90 points (10/26/05)

1995 Smith Woodhouse Madalena Vintage Port – Smith Woodhouse was founded in 1784, bought by Graham's in 1960 and then became part of the Symington portfolio when they purchased Graham's in 1970.  The Madalena vineyard site lies by the Rio Torto (twisted river) and 45% of the ten hectares at Madalena are dedicated to Tinta Barroca.  Dark ruby in color, the fresh rose petal and raspberry notes are lifted by a citrus aroma.  The red berry fruit and sweet mocha flavor is interwoven with a nice balance of acidity and gentle tannins which make this VP very easy to enjoy now, although it will reward cellaring for another five to ten years.  91 points (10/26/05)

2001 Smith Woodhouse Madalena Vintage Port – Very dark and with a magenta color, this Madalena provides an intense violet aromatic profile with a hint of licorice.  Young and authoritative, with ripe blackberry fruit that has powerful tannins and a well-knit structure.  This needs time to soften and is no where near as approachable as the 1995 Vintage. 90 points (10/26/05)

1999 Quinta de Roriz Vintage Port – Owned by the van Zeller family for 190 years and now João van Zeller has partnered with the Symington Family to market the Roriz Ports and Douro wines.  Medium dark ruby color leads to a reticent nose that is not offering much beyond plum and chocolate notes.  I enjoyed the ripe plum and sweet cassis flavors that depicted a medium body and a generous mouthful of ripe tannins on the mid-length aftertaste.   91 points (10/26/05)

2001 Quinta de Roriz Vintage Port – Inky centered with a ruby rim, this Roriz offered lively violet and licorice aromas.  The blackberry fruit was ripe and dense.  This drinks well now but shows some prominent alcohol on the finish. 86 points (10/26/05)

2. VINTAGE PORTS FROM 1980 – On May 11th 1994, James Symington told me to buy all of the 1980 Dow & Graham’s I could afford, while we had lunch at the Factory House.  I have always been appreciative of that sage advice.

1980 Warre Vintage Port – Medium ruby color with vibrant raspberry, mocha and scents of cedar.  It shows more youthful vitality than the 1977 at this point.  The wood offers up some interesting spicy nuances and the chocolate adds some complexity to the plum fruit flavors intermingled with the round tannins on the smooth finish. 89 points (10/26/05)

1980 Dow Vintage Port – Dark to medium ruby color, a fine bottle of “my favorite Port of the vintage.”  Gorgeous aromas of mint, tar and black cherry keep my nose to the glass.  A perfectly balanced Port, young at heart and in a word, harmonious.  At 25 years old, it is still on the upswing and shows dense plum and cherry flavors with sinful chocolate that weighs in on the finish, which is long and smooth.  The structure of this wine has allowed it to show well for a decade now, with at least another to continue improving and with a long plateau thereafter.  The Dow ’80 is one of my top ten wines of the decade. 93+ points (10/26/05)

1980 Graham Vintage Port – Medium garnet color, this Graham offers spicy cinnamon, raspberry and licorice aromas.  The nose might offer red fruits but the palate was densely packed with ripe blackberry fruit.  This drinks well now and shows some prominent ripe tannins on the finish and a touch of spirit; nothing another decade can’t cure. 90 points (10/26/05)

1980 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port – Inky magenta color, the nose presents chocolate covered strawberry and licorice aromas.  This Smith Woodhouse is a big, fruit forward delicious VP with a great, youthful core of dark berry fruits and solid structural components for continued improvement in the cellar.  The tannins are equal to the task and it provides a fine juicy aftertaste. 92 points (10/26/05)

3. EIGHT STRAIGHT 2003 VPs – after horizontals of 2001 followed by 1980, it was going to be tough going back to taste an even younger vintage … but it certainly was the way to go.  I was concerned that after this flight our group would also be horizontal, but they were troopers!

View my article on nearly 50 cask samples:  2003 Vintage Port Forecast (from July 2005)

2003 Warre Vintage Port – Opaque purple hue. Vibrant violets, pomegranate and red berry fruit notes join the party.  One of the finest examples of Warre in recent decades, this shows great promise.  It delivers sweet, juicy red berry fruit, which is smooth on the palate and has the tannins to go long and reach the end zone.   The tannins and acidity provide the deft balance and a long lingering aftertaste is a significant strength of this VP.  Best after 2025 when it is able to vote.   92+ points (10/26/05)

2003 Dow Vintage Port – The epitome of an “impenetrable appearance”.  Rose petals and violets waft from within the glass and the nose is just fantastic.  Seemingly more fruity than typical for Dow, the palate provides powerful plum and cassis with a mouth feel that takes a minute to figure out.  Everything is big here: the fruit is ripe and concentrated, the tannins are chewy and astringent, while the acidity acts as the life support system at its core.  No reason to touch your Dow’s unless the curiosity has forced your hand, otherwise leave these be … for 2-3 decades or more.  I still say it is the best young Dow VP I have ever tasted and that is saying a lot!  95+ points (10/26/05)

2003 Graham Vintage Port – This is a WOW wine and the one wine in this lineup which has improved the most from my cask sample evaluations back in July.  Worthy of the upper tier of the vintage with the balance and breeding to achieve greatness in the future.  Massive extract and fully opaque, this youthful “take no prisoners” Vintage Port is your next Portuguese idol!  It is more giving than it was three months ago, just after bottling, both on the nose and palate.  It also has lost a drop of that spiritual influence from the aguardente.  I dig the fleshy fruit and fabulous flavors which are seamless and vibrant. 96 points (10/26/05)

2003 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port – Oh my!  This immediately brought a smile to my face as I knew this had to be the Vesuvio.  It’s a loaded 12 gauge shotgun ready for skeet.  This is built for a half century of drinking pleasure fulfillment.  Big bold cassis and blackberry flavors border on jammy but therein rushes the acidity to keep this in check. The tannins which were so prevalent in the cask sample are still huge but show up later in the deal and set up a sumptuous smorgasbord of sensorial experience on the best finish of all 8 VPs in this tasting.  It will be very had to keep my bottles secure as this is so darn delicious.  I am glad to retaste this to confirm that I nailed this one blind from cask and found this as one of the greatest 2003 VPs made.  If I was under 45, I’d buy another case.  Make sure you own at least a six pack.   97 points (10/26/05)

2003 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port – Opaque as the evening sky sans moonlight.  Fresh violets and grape on the nose with a spicy character I could not put my finger on.  The body has fleshed out a bit with plump plum and rhubarb flavors which are texturally pleasing and a bit on the dry side.  A viscous, chewy Port with punishing tannins which obviously need lots of time to deliver the full Woodhouse potential down the road a decade or two.  Moderate length and a touch of spirit compromise the finish today but I did not get this from the earlier bottle I spent time with.  92 points (10/26/05)

2003 Gould Campbell Vintage Port – Dark and inky presence in the glass, delivering smoky prune, cassis and vanilla aromatics.  This Gould reminds me of the 1983 in its youth with similar concentration, intensity and verve.  Dense black currant and plum juice with a touch of spice, round out the flavor profile which is supported by a cast of astringent tannins that are unforgiving at this point.  The alcohol still protrudes here but less so than my earlier experience with this wine.  91+ points (10/26/05)

2003 Quarles Harris Vintage Port – My first time trying this specific 2003 VP.  Deep crimson colored wine.  Softer than I would have expected.  The fresh floral and mocha notes are pleasant enough and segue to the generous palate which exhibits very sweet prune and date flavors with a very soft approach.  Moderate tannins and some oak poke out on the finish.  This will integrate with time, but I don’t see this as having long term aging potential.  Nonetheless, it’s a well-made easy-to-drink VP. 91 points (10/26/05)

2003 Quinta de Roriz Vintage Port – Dark purple color, exudes a distinct and pure violet essence on the nose.  Extremely sweet, generous red fruit that is overtly tannic and showing a subtle balance of acidity as well.  Although there is a spirity character stands out on the finish, it does so with great length.  Should improve early on and drink best from 2015-2020. 1,650 cases produced. 90 points (10/26/05)

THE SYMINGTON’S LINEUP
© by ROY HERSH 10-26-05

4. VINIFICATION TECHNIQUES – I took brief notes of 3 cask samples of 2004, so I will describe the tasting instead.  The first sample was vinified in a traditional lagar using 2004 VP grapes, the second using grapes that were handled in a robotic lagar and the final sample was vinified by employing “plunger tanks” which are used by other Port producers and in other wine regions of the world.  The “plungers” is a mechanized method of punching down the cap.  The robotic lagares are an invention that the Symington’s designed and implemented.  Without getting into detailed notes suffice it to say that my basic impression was that I liked the traditional lagar sample the best and found it the most evenly balanced on the palate.  The robotic lagar juice provided the best aromatics and richest color and seemed softer in my mouth, while the plunger juice was slightly sweeter and had the most dominant tannins of the three.  There was more to the experiment and it was fascinating to evaluate how these three differed, using various sensorial perceptions.

5. HISTORICAL GREAT PORTS – We started out with a 50 year old youngster and then moved on to a Port that few visitors ever get to try, a Colheita that’s never been commercially released from a vintage when Chester A. Arthur was (the 21^st) President of the USA.  Now back to Portugal and a pair of great Ports.

1955 Graham’s Vintage Port – What is nice about drinking old bottles at a Port Lodge in Gaia is that you don't have to worry about provenance!  The color was a medium ruby that showed beautifully with only slight bricking on the rim.  This was my fourth experience with this bottling in the past 18 months.  There has been significant bottle variation between those bottles and it shows in the color as well as the nose and palate.  This Graham’s possessed a fine note of raspberry, with mint and lavender undertones and just the slightest touch of spirit.  What a deliciously sweet and decadent Port with soft plum, dates and hazelnuts and a sumptuous mouth feel.  This is a wine with finesse and a sweet and expressive aftertaste.  Well stored bottles like this are so much fun to drink. 94 points (10/26/05)

1882 A.J.S. Reserve Port – This is the kind of story I will tell my grandkids some day.  This juice was vinified in 1882 and sat in a Rio Torto farmer’s property until 1970 (the same year the Symington’s bought Graham’s).  They bought all five smaller than normal pipes of this incredible nectar that the farmer was selling to pay for his daughter’s wedding.  The Symington’s never did bottle the juice and so it sits, at least two of the casks do, in an office just outside of the tasting room.  We were most fortunate to be invited to try this fabulous treat.  Coincidentally, or maybe not, the 1882 vintage was vinified during latter stages of Phylloxera in the Douro, also was the year that Andrew James Symington arrived in Oporto from Scotland.  He was the 1st to join the Port trade (by marriage, to Beatrice Atkinson) which is now in the hands of Peter from the third generation and six other Symington’s from the fourth.  Some members of the 5^th generation are close to being ready to take the reigns, or at least try to earn them.

This stunning Colheita looks like coffee or darkest amber in my Port glass with a yellow meniscus.  The nose is intricately woven together with ethereal treacle, crème brulee and penetrating honeyed aromas.  In the mouth this is just liquid velvet that is concentrated with marzipan, hazelnuts and rich, melt-in-your-mouth butterscotch.  This is a gloriously rich and refined Port with intense laser guided acidity providing perfect balance.  How does one score a Port experience like this? 98 points (10/26/05)

How does one duplicate a visit like this?  Although we were in need of tooth brushing and a nap, the group was so very much appreciative of the incredible hospitality shown to us by the Symington family.  They provided a most memorable experience to say the least.  Thirty Ports plus the wines we had at lunch, simply incredible.  Having face time with the members of the family, priceless!

Back to the hotel for rest and relaxation and to prepare for a very special dinner at the Bull & Bear restaurant.  Although the group knew we were going to one of Oporto’s finest dining establishments, they did not know that we had arranged for David Guimaraens (Oenologist of the Fladgate Partnership) to join us.  The restaurant was just finishing off retrofitting their bar area where they will serve a Portuguese tapas-style menu and lots of great wine by the glass selections.  We ate in the dining room and David was very generous in answering lots of questions about some very esoteric Port topics.  Thanks again David!  We had a number of nice Portuguese table wines that evening my favorite of which was the 2001 Quinta do Crasto Reserva, Douro Red.

After dinner, we headed back to our hotel to pack our things.  The following day, we were to head up river to the Alto Douro and provide our guests with their first ever Quinta visits and the opportunity to set foot into the schistous soil of the Douro vineyards.

CORNERING A TERRACE © by ROY HERSH 10-27-05

Earlier in the year, Mario R. Ferreira and I had talked about a collaboration to bring small groups of wine enthusiasts to Portugal to discover the Port region. After lots of planning, it was apparent that in October, we would lead our first tour group to experience Port. As much as I derive pleasure from visiting Oporto and Vila Nova de Gaia, I couldn’t wait for the opportunity to introduce this savvy group of Port lovers to the awe inspiring Upper Douro River Valley. Being able to share in their overwhelming excitement was as purely joyful as watching my young daughter’s delight from jumping in a puddle. It was indescribably satisfying and the fact that our guests had never been to Portugal before, made it even more exciting for all of us.

We took the funtastic train ride from the beautifully tiled São Bento train station in the heart of Oporto to Régua about two and a half hours away. Much of the first hour is spent looking into backyards and gardens while passing through small rural villages. Then it appears suddenly, just beyond the window is the beauty of the Baixo Corgo, (translates to: below the Corgo River … but most know it as the Lower Douro) and the vistas just keep getting ever more spectacular as we advance deeper into the Alto Douro (Upper Douro). The Douro region really begins at the Serra do Marão, which is a mountain range approximately 40 miles East of Oporto, which continues all the way to the border with Spain. The train meanders along the North bank of the Douro River and vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, from the river’s edge to the very hill tops. The sheer incline of the precipitously terraced slopes (often 35-70% inclination) is an impressive sight and pictures just never seem to capture their true grace or steep gradation. The river itself was dammed decades ago and is now just a tame, slow moving waterway compared to the white water wildness of yesteryear.

Upon disembarking we were met by the very affable young man, Jorge Alves, the winemaker and vineyard manager at Quinta do Tedo and we crossed the river to get to the well-appointed Quinta.

Quinta do Tedo:

The property is situated with 14 hectares on the South side of the Douro, adjacent to the Tedo River. The production facility was built in 1957, by the same construction team that built the Pinhao Bridge. There was a large renovation project that took place in 1997, in which the six lagares were brought into the modern age so that fermentations could be controlled within. Each of the stone lagares has cold water piping running just below the flooring and normally runs at 6-7 degrees C. These particular lagares are of two sizes and hold about 7 or 11 pipes each (a pipe = 550 liters) with a total capacity of 54 pipes.

Vincent and Kay Bouchard (Vincent from the famed Burgundy family) are the owners of this single Quinta endeavor. Tedo’s production is 100% foot trodden in lagar, the vines average over 30 years old.  They have invested their time and money to renovate this historic property that dates back about 250 years. Tedo has been making VP since 1995 and also has a lineup of LBVs dating back to 1994. I did not discover Tedo’s Ports until early in 2003.

I enjoyed seeing some of the old, braided wild chestnut “cestas” (baskets) that are filled with grapes from the vineyards and taken to be processed. These particular cestas are of two sizes and the smaller ones hold up to 22 kilos, while the larger ones hold approximately 40 kilos of grapes and weigh an additional 8 kilos (nearly 110 pounds in total, for those that don’t speak metrics). The men carrying the grapes, oftentimes down very steep dirt paths, must be very sure footed and have incredible endurance to do this everyday during the harvest.

Five very low yielding parcels on the property produce between 27 and 30 hectoliters per hectare of handpicked grapes and the depth and concentration of fruit is apparent in the Tedo wines. There is no inoculation that takes place with the Port production, as only natural yeasts are utilized. In fact, Bouchard and Alves believe in using environmentally sound, products and practices in the vineyards and they are amongst the early birds in the Douro to approach vineyard management in this way.

Fermentations can be very speedy with as little as two to three days. This is very different than table wines where the fermentations usually last for weeks or even months.  The lower the ripeness and residual sugar of the grapes, the faster the fermentation. In a hot growing season in the Douro like 2003, where the grapes are concentrated and sugars run high, the fermentations can take up to six or seven days.

2003 Quanta Terra Douro red 60% Touriga Nacional, 20% Tinta Roriz, 20% Tinta Barroca. Bright purple, almost like a tank sample, it needs 3 years for the overt fruit to meld with the other components. Very fine acidity and moderate tannins provide the backbone for the extreme sweet plum and cassis juice, but the fruit will integrate well as the overall cuvee is in synch. 89 points (10/27/05)

1997 Quinta do Tedo Douro red 2000 liters produced and it is still in wood, tasted from cask, with light ruby/pink coloration. There is a dominant raspberry nuance with a bit too much oak and a charred note. This Tedo offers spicy juice with lots of fresh berry flavors and a light-medium body. There is a slight tawny flavor to this wine which is influenced by the oak treatment and a gentle but bitter finish that is a bit clipped and shows too much spirit. Out of balance at this time and hopefully it will come together in years to come. 84 points (10/27/05)

Quinta do Tedo Finest Reserve Port - from 25 year old vines , this cuvee is blended with 18 different grape types. Crimson color, with bright notes of strawberry and vanilla from the French oak utilized. This is an ultra-sweet young ruby Port with overt ripe red berry juice. It’s simple but tasty and readily approachable. 86 points (10/27/05)

1999 Quinta do Tedo LBV Port – medium ruby color. A medicinal and spirituous nose with red fruits and bright floral notes. On the palate, it delivers lightness to the mouth feel with sweet plum fruit that shows a lively tannic structure. It’s smooth and provides generous length to the finish. 87 points (10/27/05)

2000 Quinta do Tedo LBV Port - Dark magenta hue. Plum and Pomegranate aromas are intriguing and I enjoyed the nose here that is imbued with a touch of spice. Light-medium body, intense ripe, tooth-tweaking sweetness but fortunately it has plenty of acidity to carry the RS here. Darker berry profile than all wines and Ports tasted so far at Tedo.  This shows greater mid-palate intensity than the ’99 and is more to my liking. A very fine and persistent aftertaste supported by a nice smooth texture. 90 points (10/27/05)

2000 Quinta do Tedo Vintage Port – Dark ruby with an ethereal fresh floral fragrance and a weird, distinctly plastic note that mars the elegance. This is a medium weight, fruit forward style of VP, bolstered by brawny tannins and a very long finish that hints at some spirit and slight bitterness. It is actually better than it sounds here. 88 points (10/27/05)

2000 Quinta do Tedo “Savedre” Vintage Port – Dark garnet nearly opaque appearance. There is a lush strawberry note and a similar ethylene note to this 2000 as well.  It offers up ripe and juicy dark cherry and a generous dose of sweet grenadine syrup. I liked this as much as the Tedo SQVP but the tannins are slightly more pronounced and the spirit on the finish detracts from the overall pleasure at this point. I can not predict if this will integrate and lose some of the heat.  87 points (10/27/05)

2003 Quinta do Tedo Vintage Port – Nearly full opacity with very dark ruby-purple color. Red berry, mocha and rose petals deliver a wonderful aromatic profile. I enjoyed the lush and round mouthfeel with tannins that were much less gripping than the cask sample I remember fondly. Medium body and a very long and delineated finish with waves of chocolate.  92+ points (10/27/05)

We had an outstanding meal and were all hungry after the train ride and hour of barrel tasting, (those wines are not reported here).  What a fun afternoon visit and it was nice to walk though the vineyards and touch the schistous soil. We also hiked through the garden where most of the vegetables had recently been picked, some for our lunch. There was a fantastic view of Niepoort’s Quinta de Napoles which was just below Tedo and closer to the river. Although this is an up and coming property, the owner Vincent Bouchard is very involved in improving the overall quality of the product and splits time with his cooperage business in Napa Valley.

Quinta do Noval:

It was getting a bit late and we stopped into our lodgings to freshen up before dinner & Ports at the esteemed Quinta do Noval. It was great to see my friend Rute upon our arrival. She was as charming as ever and in good spirits considering it was drizzling pretty hard. We took a nice tour of the property and saw not only the winemaking facility but also the vineyards. We did not have much time as it was growing dark and with the weather not cooperating, our time in the Nacional Vineyard was much shorter than we had hoped, but we did manage to touch the hallowed ground. Admittedly, it was more special the first time … but it was still very cool to be standing on that hallowed ground.

Of the 210 hectares, (1 hectare = 2.5 acres) 140 are planted to vine. There is still plenty of land around Noval and when looking at Noval’s property from across the valley, it is a sight to behold. The whitewashed markers and the huge Quinta do Noval sign make this a landmark not to be missed.

On to the wines. We had a fun 2003 tasting of the three Noval vintage Ports before heading to dinner:

2003 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port – in some vintages, Nacional juice can be added into the regular Noval to provide greater density and complexity to the Port. Opaque ruby purple hue. This was a just opened bottle and did not have time to show its greatness, as the nose was extremely reticent with just a hint of herbs and pepper poking through. It was fun to try this right from the get go, with massive, ripe cassis, dark cherry and blackberry flavors literally attacking the palate and crushing it with tannins that arrive later in the game. Viscous in the mouth and it delivered an everlasting finish. A blockbuster of a young VP with a great half century+ guaranteed for this stellar effort. 95+ points (10/27/05 - decanting in advance would have added points)

2003 Quinta do Noval Silval Vintage Port – less than 1000 cases produced. Fresh fragrant violets, mocha and red berries waft out of the glass. The nose is much more enjoyable from this bottle than the regular Noval. Soft, sweet blueberries and anise with moderate level of tannin and a fine finish. Not as tannic as I remember from the cask sample and mostly approachable on this particular tasting.  92 points (10/27/05)

2003 Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port – The grapes from 6,000 ungrafted vines and six varietals were blended to make up the 225 cases of this outstanding VP. Bright blackberry fruit, silky chocolate and viscous overall, this would have been so much better had it been decanted hours earlier. A bit tight, especially the nose. Souzao and Amarela are in here too. 96+ points (10/27/05)

1994 Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port – This became a guessing game and I believed it was the 1994 Quinta do Noval, but was almost positive that it was not the Nacional. First of all it was not as dense and chewy as the ’94 Nacional’s I have had before (on four prior occasions). Out of the kitchen comes a very nice surprise, Mr. and Mrs. Christian Seely have just arrived from Bordeaux. Christian had not heard our guesses and for very similar reasons (the biggest of which … this bottle was opened only a short while before we tasted it). Nonetheless, a very polished Port with great potential. It is almost “unfair” to rate this bottle, but …  97+ points (10/27/05)

Christian was in a fun loving mood and he generously opened the next three bottles which sated our thirst on this particular evening. What a great surprise to have him join our group!

1962 Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port – I have had this wine on several occasions and IMHO, have always considered it a mediocre Nacional. This was the first bottle of the ’62 to show me a different picture. Light to medium ruby in color with a bricking meniscus, the nose showed beautifully with strawberry and licorice dominating the aromas but with highlights of sweet cedar and vanilla that added a nice seasoning. Smooth and delicate on the palate this was a textural delight. Very refined and offering up an extremely long, decadent finish. It’s at peak now. 92 points (10/27/05)

1962 Quinta do Noval Crusted Port – In the USA, we don’t have the opportunity to drink any old “Crusted Ports” and this was certainly the oldest example I have ever tried. It was a great wine to compare to the Nacional. Let’s just say that my guess was WAY off, never suspecting a Crusted to be tossed into the mix. This was still quite lively and provided developed aromas of prunes, caramel and cocoa powder. The palate was lighter in body than the Nacional, but still lots of delicate plum and fig flavors and fully resolved and round tannins. A gentle and tasty Port that showed class. 89 points (10/27/05)

1937 Quinta do Noval Colheita Port – I got a kick when one of the guys in our group guessed a “1931 Nacional” and I kept my nose and eyes in the glass. I was not sure if this was a VP from the 19^th century or an old Colheita, as the tertiary nuances were excellent. I am glad I have some in the cellar! Raisins and butterscotch with a backdrop of hazelnuts delivered a scintillating nose that was even better than the gorgeous palate. The liquid caramel and pralines on the palate were quite fine and the finish was awesome and complex but only medium in length. Great juice! 95 points (10/27/05)

One fun factoid we learned, was that the 2001 Quinta do Noval Silval Vintage Port possesses a good amount of declassified Quinta do Noval grapes in the final Silval blend, which resulted in not only a fabulous Port, but a great bargain.

It is always a great time when visiting the legendary Quinta do Noval and experiencing their outstanding hospitality provided by the incredibly well-versed staff. Standing in the Nacional vineyard for the first time, is one memory that will linger a lifetime, even for the most jaded of wine travelers. As much as I love drinking the Ports of Noval, visiting the Quinta itself, is even better and that is saying a lot!

Quinta da Vista Alegre:

Another morning had broken and we were off to explore a property that is still unknown in the USA marketplace, although distributed to 21 other nations. Their largest market is Quebec, Canada and Angola is not far behind. Vista Alegre is the crown jewel amongst a handful of vineyards and three Quintas that make up the company VALLEGRE, which was established in 1973. Quinta da Vista Alegre currently has 55 hectares planted (25 more ha at their other two Quintas) and is situated on the North bank of the Douro, just outside of Pinhão. In the past the grapes had been sold to Ferreira, Ramos Pinto and Taylor which had purchased some old Tawnies.

Miguel Martins (CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR NEW TWINS!!!) took us on a wild ride in a jeep through some very steep terrain (the top of their vineyard was at about 1500 feet above the river bank), where the fall foliage was breathtaking and the vineyard still had some grapes hanging even though the harvest was completed a couple of weeks earlier. We had a chance to explore a number of different grape types, see some incredible granite outcroppings, learn more about the schistous soil and take pictures of the colorful vineyard with splendid river vistas below the steep terraces.

Vista Alegre along with Valle Longo (the latter of which is in close proximity to Quinta do Tedo) makes up the two main releases of Vallegre, but they have others such as Ceremony and Porto Cabral in their portfolio. Their production capacity is just shy of 70,000 cases but currently they are producing a total of 2,000 cases of Port. Their first Vintage Port was in 1994, which is not a bad vintage to start out with. They maintain very large stocks of 30 and 40 year old Tawny Port, although the company started in 1973, they possess vines from a century ago that are still productive.

We went back to the tasting room and were treated to a wide assortment of bottled Ports:

1988 Vista Alegre LBV Port – This is the oldest bottling and a Traditional style of LBV, bottled in 1994, which basically means that it was not filtered and needs decanting. Cranberry in color with a pink meniscus, it offers floral and anise notes and a touch of spirit. The medium-body weight played well with a very smooth initial approach. Offering plum and red fruits it is a very tasty LBV and a nice way to begin our exploration into the Alegre Ports. The finish was exceptionally long and showed a touch of heat.   90 points (10/28/05)

1995 Vista Alegre LBV Port – It’s another Traditional bottling of LBV which took place in 2000. The color is a very dark ruby red and fully opaque Port, with spicy Touriga Nacional dominating here with cassis and mocha aromatics. This is one of the more memorable LBVs I have had on the trip and shows both balance and outstanding textural pleasure. Although it is medium bodied, the smooth mouthfeel and nearly perfect aftertaste make this an extraordinary find. Great overall symmetry! 5,000 cases produced. 92+ points (10/28/05)

1999 Vista Alegre LBV Port – Considerably smaller production with only 900 cases produced. Opaque ruby-purplish hue. Cranberry, grenadine syrup and a chocolate note round off the nose. This is far less refined than the ’95 and a bit rustic if not coarse. There is an herbaceous note here that was intriguing but not altogether pleasant, yet the blackberry fruit and ultra-long finish made up for it.  88 points (10/28/05)

1996 Vista Alegre Vintage Port – From Vallegre’s 2^nd declaration (after the ’94) this Single Quinta Vintage Port was a solid entry that was 100% foot trodden in lagares. Very dark in color with earthy elements and a spicy note. Initially very tasty on approach, there’s a stemmy quality that combines with some might ripe tannins to offer moderated pleasure on the finish. 87 points (10/28/05)

2003 Vista Alegre Vintage Port – This was the Port I had been waiting to try. Due to some confusion at Newark International Airport last July, my cask samples never reached me and therefore I was only able to include their Valle Longo in my “forecast of 2003s”. Pure purple opaque juice. Light floral scents dominated by violets and a spicy essence, this VP did not keep its youth a secret. This Alegre offers a medium body along with a smooth texture, harmonious boysenberry & blueberry flavors and a drop of alcohol that sneaks in early. It has a well-woven structure and should be a fine SQVP to be cellared for 15-20 years. Very enjoyable finish.  91+ points (10/28/05)

n/v Vista Alegre Old White Port – I love experiences like this, finding wines that I’d never see in the market place. This White Port is a blend of juice from 1966 and 10 year old white Port. It is aged in wood for at least 20 years old, but this specific cuvee averaged 25 years old. The color was similar to iced tea with a medium amber hue with an orange tinge. The nose was fantastic and had I not known, I’d have guessed it to be a Boal Madeira with roasted chestnuts and complex butterscotch aromas. There was a delicacy to this wine with a light to medium body and silky smooth in the mouth. Swirling showed the huge glycerin in this wine and upon first sip the vibrant acidity made itself known against the multi layers of flavor with pralines, tropical nectar and liquid caramel. The aftertaste was simply dazzling and my notes stated, “It will finish next year”. One of the most unique wines of the entire trip so far! 95 points (10/28/05)

Vista Alegre 30 Year Old Tawny Port – I was surprised to find a touch of ruby color in this otherwise tawny colored Port. Exotic essence of maple syrup, citrus peel and laden with spice that is followed by a drop of spirit on the nose. Full-bodied and elegant this is a sinfully dense, velvety and viscous glass of toffee, flan and caramel. Sound decadent? This bottle was grabbed off of the active bottling line right in front of us. Lots of finesse here, wow, a complete and utterly fabulous 30 year old bottling! The complex finish is indescribable and more akin to a mind blowing Terrantez. 94 points (10/28/05)

We tasted a few other wines, but these were the ones that best represented the tasting. A fine casual sit down tasting like this in the morning with a fresh palate is always so enjoyable. The Tawny was a fine way to finish off an excellent visit to Vista Alegre, a property that is producing a broad range of Ports, from well-situated vineyards. Finding undiscovered gems like this, made our journey all the more worthwhile.

Royal Oporto - Quinta das Carvalhas:
Real Companhia Velha

It was nice to catch up with Jerry Luper once again and to see his progress at Royal Oporto. Jerry is a brilliant winemaker who also is very savvy in the vineyard as well. After all, coming from Napa Valley where he helped to cement the names Diamond Creek, Chateau Montelena and Freemark Abbey in the minds of American wine lovers, (to name just a few), Jerry has little left to prove. Nonetheless, he and his wife Carolee moved to the Douro in 1994 after falling in love with the area many visits ago. Luper began as a consultant at Royal Oporto, making his first wine there in 1996. He was quickly promoted to Technical Director and now is responsible for the Douro wines as well as Port production. The production of table wines (utilizing Port grape varietals) began in 1989, and really took off once Jerry came on board.

In my opinion, Royal Oporto has never been a name associated with top quality Vintage Ports and is best known for Colheita and Tawny Port production. Jerry is out to change the fortunes of Royal Oporto which owns an incredible amount of vineyard land in the Douro. They also own four distinct Quintas throughout the Douro: Quinta das Carvalhas, Quinta de Sidrô, Quinta dos Aciprestes and Quinta do Casal da Granja. If anyone can bring excellence to their Vintage Ports, Mr. Luper has the skill and will to do so.

If you remember the recent article in the last FTLOP newsletter, on the 250^th Anniversary of the Douro’s demarcation, it was the Marques de Pombal who founded this company and one of the early Feitoria (granite markers that demarcated the Douro) from 1758 still stands. Therefore, the history of this company is forever intertwined with that of the Port industry.

Royal Oporto makes a very broad lineup of wines nowadays. Here was our opportunity to try some before and during lunch:

2002 Quinta de Cidrô Chardonnay Reserva Trás-os-Montes, Portugal - A £5 bottling of which to its credit was barrel fermented and was fruit forward and a bit too vanilla laden for my liking, but certainly offered a good QPR. Lemon and almond notes upfront lead to a palate filled with oak. 80 points (10/28/05)

2001 Porca de Murça Reserva Douro Red – Opaque dark purple color with smoky notes bolstered by ripe prune and chocolate fragrances. It sits for one year in French and American oak. Drying fruit and overtly ripe tannins persist on the finish. Approx. 8500 cases produced. 83 points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta dos Aciprestes Douro Red – Opaque dark ruby color. Dense, dark berry profile with a touch of herbs. Somewhat simple although this is a gentle food wine and when it has another year or two to integrate, will offer more pleasure. 84 points (10/28/05)

2001 Evel “Grande Escolha” Douro Red – 85% Touriga Nacional, 15% Touriga Franca. This brand name has been around for about 80 years. Raspberry and smoky cherry notes with a unique camp fire aroma. Dusty plum and prune flavors are supported by a pleasantly smooth mouthfeel and a long, fruit laden finish. 90 points (10/28/05)

2000 Quinta das Carvalhas Vintage Port – Inky black and fully opaque appearance. Floral notes with some pepper and spice. Loganberry and cassis flavors with a touch of cocoa powder, this delivers a huge tannic finish and lacks much on the mid-palate. 100% foot trodden in lagar and there were some grapes from 80 year old vines used in the blend (NO Touriga Nacional). 87 points (10/28/05)

1997 Quinta das Carvalhas Vintage Port – Fine fragrance of figs, anise and tar. This is far more approachable than the 2000, with a nice round mouthfeel and flavors of cassis and licorice with an unrecognizable spice element. Good length to the tannic finish. More depth to this wine and overall it provided better drinking now. 89 points (10/28/05)

1953 Royal Oporto Colheita Port – Depicting a gorgeous orange sunset color. A complex mélange of fresh apricots, unblanched almonds and vanilla beans provide a nose worth keeping in the glass for a few minutes. The palate pleasing peach, pralines and apricots present perfectly poised balance between fruit and acidity with an intricate finish which offers hints of marzipan and brown sugar. This Colheita is a stunning dessert wine and was a great way to end our lunch with Jerry and Royal Oporto. 94 points (10/28/05)

Quinta do Crasto:

Visiting “The Douro Boys” is always a pleasure and on this trip our stop took us to Quinta do Crasto. Our group was in for a real surprise as we would not only have the chance to try some of Portugal’s finest table wines but also to learn from Francisco Olazabal (owner of Quinta do Vale Meão) and Miguel Roquette (Sales & Marketing Director and the son of Crasto’s owner, Jorge Roquette). Although I have known both gentlemen for several years, this would be my first visit to the esteemed Quinta do Crasto and I could not wait to see it.

I have enjoyed the stunning view of this property from across the river, as Crasto sits majestically on an outcropping high above the Douro River. It is located just a few miles West of Pinhão and maybe half way to Régua, and it is one crazy, memorable and beautiful meandering drive to get there. By helicopter or boat this would be a breeze.

Crasto is a historic property dating back nearly four hundred years with a sign at the front gate inscribed 1615. Unfortunately we arrived at dusk and our views were obscured by impending darkness. What a great excuse to visit Crasto again in the future. I have heard about the beauty of this property from several friends who had visited the Roquette family. In fact, it should be noted that this Quinta has been family owned and operated since the 1800s. I could barely see the “famous” pool which numerous friends have told me about. Next time!

There has been a great influx of investments made in Crasto and Miguel was very proud when showing us the high-tech facilities that were completed recently in the current phase of construction, with more development already planned for. But it is not only the adega (winery) that has received the facelift and new equipment. Lots of attention has been spent in the vineyards as well, with replanting and new plantings which have received tremendous recognition not only for their Ports, but more so, Quinta do Crasto’s fabulous stable of Douro red wines.

We were fortunate to have many of the Douro Boys wines included in this tasting. Since they all take turns traveling around the globe and promoting their own wines, but do so collaboratively as well, (a fantastic cooperative marketing effort) there is almost always someone at “home” to meet with invited guests. This is just one way that smaller independent producers have joined forces to be able to compete with some of the larger Portuguese and British family enterprises.

Quinta do Crasto is uniquely situated on the North shore of the Douro with 70 hectares of typically terraced vineyards that possess a Southern solar exposure and all of which are rated “A” by the IVDP (Port and Douro Wine Institute) and therefore have a generous “beneficio” (IVDP’s regulated annual production quota for each vineyard). The old vineyards comprising field blends have low yielding vines dating back at least seventy years, (ranging up to ninety years old). There are also newer “vinha ao alta” plantings done in “patamares” (vertical rows that are planted significantly wider than what is found in typically steep, horizontally terraced vineyards and they’re easier to farm).

We were told that Miguel’s father Jorge Roquette pioneered the regimen of vertical planting in the very early 1980s. Jorge also decided to plant the 5 key Port grapes segregated by variety, rather than continue cultivating field blends. These are just a couple of the viticultural innovations which have supported Crasto’s success with single cultivar Douro wines which are all the rage; although some of their single vineyard wines have become equally celebrated. Their two prized vineyards, Vinha Maria Teresa and Vinha da Ponte (the latter vineyard was planted in 1910, the former just a few years later) are producing world class red wines only in years where the wines are deemed excellent. This is not all that different actually, from Vintage Port “declarations.” The grapes are foot trodden in lagares, just like Port too.

A few other intriguing facts about Quinta do Crasto:

* Quinta do Crasto was one of the very first Quintas to produce Single Quinta Vintage Port.

* Crasto previously sold grapes to Ferreira (who owned the property two centuries earlier), until laws changed with the Act of May 7th 1986, which allowed producers from the Douro to market and ship their wines from the Douro instead of Vila Nova de Gaia.

* Along with some of the single grape Douro reds like the highly rated 2001 Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional, these single vineyard designated wines have achieved “cult” status in Portugal and are literally impossible to find in country. Prices on current release (2003) of their two single vineyard wines are in the USD $100-$125 range and even a decade ago, this would have been unthinkable for Crasto or any non-fortified wine in the country, not just the Douro.

* Until the 2001 Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional gained a score of 96 points by the Wine Spectator, the highest score ever given to a Portuguese red table wine was the 2000 Quinta do Crasto Vinha da Ponte (WS 95 points).

* The winemaking team of Susana Esteban and Dominic Morris are responsible for the production of the Douro reds. They are also involved with the Port production which is overseen by Technical Director, Tomas Roquette (Miguel’s brother).

After touring the entire immaculate production facility, it was time to get down to some serious tasting. My tasting notes are somewhat abbreviated due to the quantity of wines presented before dinner. First we had a nice sampling of Douro reds from various “Douro Boys” properties and then we had some Ports before and after a wonderfully prepared dinner.

Douro Reds

2003 Quinta do Crasto Douro Red – Dark ruby with spicy violet and floral aromas. Made from grapes of young vines. In need of a few years in the cellar as it is a bit tight. Tasty, simple plum fruit and moderate tannins with good length to the finish. Clean and fresh.  90 points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Crasto Reserva Vinhas Velhas Douro Red – The vine age of this wine averages nearly 60 years old. Big, bold, dark cherry and plum flavors that offer greater depth than the regular bottling. A nice touch of mocha adds to the delicious finish and overall it has good long term potential! It could’ve used some more time in decanter. $38 btl./4,000 cases produced.       92+ points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Crasto Tinta Roriz Douro Red – 100% tasty Tinta Roriz. Deeply extracted, smoky, earthy and dark berry profile with a touch of vanilla. The oak shows prominently on the palate and slightly overshadows the bright blackberry fruit. Excellent mouthfeel and if time provides integration, this may turn out quite nicely. 450 cases produced. 89 points (10/28/05)

2001 Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional Douro Red – Ok, now I understand what all the fuss is all about. Thanks Miguel for breaking this out in time for dinner! OMG, this is in perfect harmony now but is still so very young. Spicy, pepper, plum and concentrated red berry flavors. Well-knit acidity and even handed tannins are in synch with the boisterous fruit here. I was pleased to be able to drink this with food and spend well over an hour with this stunning bulls-eye. I can only imagine what this will be like in a decade. I love my ’96 Touriga now and this young, is way better already.  95+ points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional Douro Red – 22 year old vine average. Very spicy, with tar and a pine/herbal essence. Tasty smoky plum flavors meld well here and reminds me of a bigger version of the 1996 at the same stage, without the monster tannins of that wine. Solid structure and built to last. I like it. 667 cases produced.  92+ points (10/28/05)

2004 Quinta do Crasto Cask Sample Touriga Nacional Douro Red – Inky purple, massive and muscular yet still approachable due to round tannins. Far more tame and approachable than expected. A solid dose of oak here but the bright purple fruits are up to the task.  N/R (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Crasto Vinha Maria Teresa Douro Red – Approx. 30 grapes make up this field blend from this outstanding parcel with 90 year old vines. Chewy, dense and incredibly rich black fruit profile, with a generous mouthfeel. I’d love a case of this in the cellar. Intense and complex infant deserving of at least five years in the cellar before revisiting. Drink in a decade from now for maximum pleasure. 542 cases produced.  93+ points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Crasto Vinha do Ponte Douro Red – Close to 100 year old vines provide a fully opaque, inky monster of a wine. A blend of 22 grapes make up this single vineyard designated beauty. Spicy and earthy with a gorgeous fresh berry pie aroma. A massive wine at this point, yet it is generous on the palate with vibrant fruit and a multi-layered, persistent and tannic finish. Sexy! 242 cases produced.    94+ points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Vale Dona Maria Douro Red – Vibrant dark ruby color. Ripe black cherry and vanilla scents are heady. Rich dark plum and chocolate on the palate with massive tannins and fine length offer great promise in a few years when this is ready to drink. Very enjoyable now, but those tannins pack a wallop.  91 points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Vale Meão Meandro Douro Red – To be fair, this was only bottled in July. The four grape varieties were vinified separately and come from vines grown in 3 distinct soil types. Aged in neutral barrels. Floral notes, with tar, cedar and black fruits. Chewy and dense with unforgiving tannins. It is hard to assess at this point and I’d like to revisit this after it has been in the bottle a while longer. 90 points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Vale Meão Douro Red – Inky purple and fully opaque. Tight initially with great promise as it opens in the glass. I wish I had more time with this baby. Full-bodied and excellent structure here. A massive wine with sweet, ripe blackberries and astringent tannins. This is a succulent youngster with finesse, a point balance at this early stage. Just a superlative effort from Meão! 2,333 cases produced.  94+ points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Vallado Douro Red – 80% Touriga Franca/20% Touriga Nacional make up this blend from the Cima Corgo. Bright red fruits and very approachable for such a youngster. Somewhat simple but quite enjoyable, with a wonderful aftertaste. Drink now or cellar for a few years.  87 points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Vallado Reserva Douro Red – Vines average 60 years for this wine that offers more oomph. Rose petals, cinnamon and anise aromas. A bit of oak upon entry but plenty of juicy, tart red cherry and plum fruit. Slightly under ripe. Powerful and full throttle tannins will mellow and allow the Vallado to be more enjoyable a few years from now.  89 points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Vallado Tinta Roriz Douro Red – Possibly the best Tinta Roriz wine I have had. Wow! Big bright strawberry nose with hints of cocoa powder. It delivers vibrant, ripe bing cherry flavors supported by some spicy licorice. Cheeky tannins and an otherwise nice mouthfeel to this infant. What I like most is the expressive purity of fruit. Delicious!  93 points (10/28/05)

2004 Niepoort Cask Sample Charme Douro Red – Lovely strawberry, earthy and vanilla aromas. Fresh, soft and approachable and almost like a Pinot Noir. So easy to drink now that there is no reason to wait for it to be bottled. Fabulous!  N/R (10/28/05)

Vintage Ports

2003 Quinta do Vale Dona Maria Vintage Port – Dark and delicious. Fragrant grenadine and cherry. An impressive Dona Maria and it is nice to revisit this as the cask sample was ultra-tannic. Sweet plum and brimming with blackcurrant that is almost jammy, yet so well balanced and voluptuous. Cheeky drying tannins are hard to ignore and this is going to be a long lived wine without any question. What a difference three months have made!  93 points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Vale Meão Vintage Port – My first time trying this one. 50% Touriga Nacional, 40% Touriga Franca and 10% Tinta Roriz, 100% in lagar. As dark as VP get. The nose offers up strawberry, bittersweet chocolate and a bit too much alcohol. I doubt this had enough time in decanter. Full-bodied, exhibiting red berry fruit and espresso with drying, chalky tannins that are not overpowering. What a nice long finish and overall a well-made Meão, which I like more than the 2000 (cask sample) VP.  92 points (10/28/05)

2001 Quinta do Vale Meão Vintage Port – Inky color. A stylish Port in a medium-bodied somewhat subdued style, especially after the big 2003. It offers cassis, sweet boysenberry and licorice that is prominent on the gentle yet long aftertaste. Very approachable and I’d drink this while waiting for the ’03 to cellar properly 90 points (10/28/05)

2003 Quinta do Crasto Vintage Port – Corked N/R (10/28/05)

1987 Quinta do Crasto Vintage Port – I am a fan of the ’87 vintage and have a few favorites. This is a very good example of how this unheralded vintage can produce fine VPs. Cranberry in color with a light pink meniscus, not one of the more extracted examples. Nonetheless, the nose provides spicy cinnamon with strawberry accents. Medium-bodied and impressively smooth on the palate with fully resolved tannins. It is a gentle and tasty Port that is ready to drink now. The finish is very long but the spirituous whack on the aftertaste was a bit of a distraction.  91 points (10/28/05)

1987 Niepoort Colheita Port – Ruby centric color with an edge that fades to pink. Lacks the development of a typical Niepoort Colheita, but then again, this is just a baby. Its strong point is its silky palate presence. A bit simple today but it does have the structure to keep going a long ways in the bottle. Delicious caramel and toffee flavors on the finish. 92+ points (10/28/05)

1970 Quinta do Crasto Colheita Port – This was a real treat as it has never been commercially released (actually I never knew of Colheitas produced by Crasto). Aged like a 70 year old wine. A great aromatic mélange of Pekoe tea and toasted almonds with a touch of alcohol showing. Full-bodied and providing the pleasure of a much older wine. Expansive on the palate, gentle and sumptuous. A gorgeous smooth and silky mouthfeel with liquid butterscotch on the never ending aftertaste. I can still taste it. Some heat detracts a point or two, but this is one heck of a way to finish the evening. 94 points (10/28/05)

Our group was overwhelmed by an amazing day and array of Douro wines and Ports. We had a ton of fun and learned volumes about some excellent properties. It was going to be a long ride back to our lodging. It was time to say goodnight to our hosts and as I type, the fond memory of that very special “first” evening at Quinta do Crasto remains. Thanks Miguel and Francisco!

Quinta do Portal:

It had been two years since I last visited with Portal’s proprietor, Pedro Branco and his unassuming winemaker Paulo Coutinho. This dynamic duo has put together a great success story and made quite a splash in the past five years. Like Quinta do Crasto, this is an independent, family-owned venture with a long history of grape growing and lots of early success producing Ports for their own company. The Branco family has been producing table wines since 1986 and a variety of Ports under the Quinta do Portal label since 1994.

When Mario R. Ferreira was first organizing Port tastings throughout the USA for the Port Wine Institute; I met Pedro (February 2002), when the IVDP “road show” came to Seattle. I will never forget my first sip of 1999 Quinta do Portal Vintage Port. Not only was it my first taste of Portal, but my first sip of any ’99 VP. It is still one of my favorite Vintage Ports made by this house and definitely at the apex of that under-appreciated vintage. From that tasting and a few others in Seattle, London and at Q. d Portal during the following year, I’d like to think I played a small part in introducing this fine producer to Port lovers in the USA (and elsewhere), since Portal was not yet distributed here at the time.

The Branco’s own four Quintas and have about 100 hectares of vineyards already planted, with lots of prime acreage suited for future growth. Their family has owned Quinta dos Muros since the late 1800s and they still use the old stone lagares there. But Quinta do Portal is their primary property, with state-of-the-art production, tasting and beautiful guest facilities. It is here that tastings take place and the large main building is situated on a peaceful and breathtaking piece of land, surrounded by vines as far as the eye can see.

The Quinta of Quinta do Portal began in 1994, but in its past life it was called Quinta Casal de Celeirós. An amazing and little known story that I have researched is that this property was the only one in the entire Douro region that was not affected by Phylloxera! How that louse missed this particular parcel of vineyards is a matter of lore and only the owner at that time, Sr. Arnaldo Alves de Sousa knows the truth. But it is said that he contacted a French chemist (M.H. Joulie) circa 1880, and followed the steps of the “chemical analysis” he received. Whether or not that was what worked or divine intervention, we’ll never really know. But the fact remains the same.

Another fun factoid is that Celeirós was one of the very earliest Quintas to employ women to tread grapes in the lagares. Record of this goes back to the author Henry Vizetelly, who penned (in the latter part of the 1800s): "The young women skillfully gathered their garments up around them. When all was duly adjusted they sprang into the lagar, and, delighted with their task, danced for a time among the grapes with the frenzy if not the grace of a troop of wild Bacchanals. The sight was certainly amusing, although the proceeding was, perhaps, not exactly a decorous one."

Before the Branco family came to rescue this property, the grapes were used by Sandeman (throughout the 1960s – 1980s), who disposed of the buildings in 1985 and land in 1991. The Quinta had fallen on bad times and into disrepair and was used for a time as a school and local parish meeting hall. The vineyards however, never stopped producing. When Pedro Mansilha Branco and his family took over, there was a lot of hard work to be done and money to be invested. Today, Quinta do Portal is one of the growing numbers of family-owned, Single Quinta wine businesses that is flourishing in the Douro. The future is bright and their table wines and Ports continue to improve.

Here are the majority of wines that we were presented by Pedro and Paulo:

N/V Quinta do Portal Moscatel do Douro – Straw color with light, fresh aromas of apple and seckle pears. Simple, clean and refreshing with bracing acidity and underlying earth and slate. 17% alcohol but it tastes lighter.  85 points (10/29/05)

1996 Quinta do Portal Moscatel do Douro – The Moscatel grapes come Favaios, a small village at the North end of the Pinhão Valley, well-known for growing excellent Moscatel grapes. Intriguing orange/tawny color. Serves up a sexy nose of apricots and orange marmalade. This is a smooth operator with a rich mouthfeel, plenty of acid to keep the ripe white peaches and apricot fruit in check, and it’s fun to roll around in the mouth. This would be a great summer quaffer!  89 points (10/29/05)

1994 Quinta do Portal Colheita Port – This Colheita is still a baby although from the appearance, you’d never guess ’94. Exotic Asian spice, orange peel and fresh geraniums deliver complexity to the nose. A light-medium body, smooth and well-structured but lacking the evolution of secondary nuances. It does provide a very enjoyable and long aftertaste. Cellar for a decade and see what happens.  90 points (10/29/05)

Quinta do Portal 10 Year Old Tawny Port – Tea color with a light tawny edge. One of the better 10 year old Tawnies I have had on the trip. Delicate and light weight with almond and sweet hazelnut flavors, elegant and ponderous. Solid acidity and generous on the finish, this is one Tawny to seek out.  92 points (10/29/05)

Quinta do Portal 20 Year Old Tawny Port – Amber color with a yellowish rim. Spice, citrus peel and roasted nuts provide a heady scent with a touch of spirit. Gentle candied walnuts and caramel are bolstered by a light orange nuance which adds the complexity to the elegant, dry and nutty finish. 91 points (10/29/05)

1994 Quinta do Portal Traditional LBV Port – Light touch of TCA n/r (10/29/05)

1995 Quinta do Portal Traditional LBV Port – Medium ruby in color. Fine aromas of lightly toasted nuts and caramel which I found odd (but pleasant) for a young LBV. In fact the ’95 had distinctly secondary characteristics which had me baffled. Regardless, just based on what was in the glass -- almonds and toffee with a long finish, this was an atypical but very tasty wine.  92 points (10/29/05)

1996 Quinta do Portal Traditional LBV Port – Very dark ruby color. This has usually been one of my favorite Portal LBVs and I have rated this as high as 93 points in the past. This bottle delivered spicy dark berry flavors with a licorice note and a bit of spirit. The texture was coarser than I remember and the alcohol stood out which marred the finish. I need to try this again from another bottle!  85 points (10/29/05)

2000 Quinta do Portal Traditional LBV Port – Cranberry color. Now we’re talking. Ripe, dominant plum and spice are enticing on the nose. The palate shows power and class, with cassis and blackberry fruit in a medium-bodied wine with a solid core of acidity and a touch of spirit on the otherwise delicious finish.  90 points (10/29/05)

2001 Quinta do Portal Traditional LBV Port (cask sample) – Opaque and inky. Carnations and pure grape essence are explosive and fun. Full-bodied and smooth as can be. Blackberry profile with power and finesse. Quite approachable now but will be even better once released. Excellent potential here. 92+ points (10/29/05)

2003 Quinta do Portal Traditional LBV Port (cask sample) – Fresh cut floral fragrance with violets and raspberry dancing in the glass. Juicy, bright plums and pure boysenberry fruit is delicious and the vibrant acidity lends a hand. The tannins take over and dominate in the mouth. This is going to be a huge LBV and one to seek out by the case. It will take some time to lose the baby fat though and it will be interesting to see if it does so by the time it is released. 93 points (10/29/05)

2004 Quinta do Portal Traditional LBV Port (cask sample) – Big, bright and bold dark berry centric LBV, with intensity and punishing tannins today. This is so massive it could almost pass for a Vintage Port cask sample. This pushes the envelope and it will be a great find around 2010. 93+ points (10/29/05)

1995 Quinta do Portal Vintage Port – It is nice to see how much this VP has improved in a few years. It was a bit hot and had some unpleasantness last time. But with a decade in the bottle, this has settled down nicely and the sweet, vibrant dark cherry fruit and chocolate are battling with ripe, chewy tannins that don’t quit. Revisit in another five years and this should be staring to come into its own. Enjoyable today but will reward patience with resolved tannins. 90+ points (10/29/05)

1999 Quinta do Portal Vintage Port – This is still my favorite Portal from their earlier vintages. One of our guests was blown away by this ’99 and I just smiled. Round, viscous, exquisite structurally, extraordinarily smooth on the mouthfeel. It just keeps getting better every time I drink it. I did not spit a drop!  94+ points (10/29/05)

2000 Quinta do Portal Vintage Port – Opaque purple hue. Plum and purple fruit aromas. Full-bodied, yet soft and very approachable, with a delicious cassis, cedar and raspberry profile. The oak stands out a bit, which I have not noted before and the tannins are chewy but these both show up on the long and juicy finish. 92+ points (10/29/05)

2003 Quinta do Portal Vintage Port – I enjoyed this even more than the cask sample. Our group was in agreement that this was the best wine on the table. Fabulous! Massive and structured like an armored tank. The juicy almost jammy dark berry fruit and acidity kept my salivary glands in overdrive. Excellent mouthfeel up front and then the tannins kick in and take control. A concentrated, powerful wine with even greater upside potential for the long haul. One of the top young Vintage Ports I’ve had on our trip. If you are over 50, buy the 1999 instead! 96+ points (10/29/05)

2003 Quinta do Portal Portal + Vintage Port – Black as coal. This is more feminine and even approachable at this point. It was a tannic cask sample so it was nice to see it flesh out a bit. Expansive blueberry and boysenberry fruit that is a showing well right now. The tannins are still present late in the game but this should be ready to drink in 15-20 years, unlike its big brother above. 93+ points (10/29/05)

2005 Quinta do Portal Vintage Port (cask sample) – Impenetrable and I can’t use the word “color” for the appearance of this wine. It is like a black mirror. Violets and raspberry aromas are ripe and sweet. The flavor profile is more purple with plums and grenadine that is sweet and unctuous at this stage. The tannins clubbed me into submission. Another monster in the making! n/r (10/29/05)

It is always a distinct pleasure to visit Quinta do Portal and my sincere appreciation to Pedro and Paulo for their hospitality. Taking part in a comprehensive tasting like this, directly after breakfast … had me starving for lunch. I could not get that 2003 VP out of my head the entire drive back to Oporto and I still need to find a case of the ’99 Portal. Time to check winesearcher.com! I know that our group was every bit as enthralled by this tasting, as it would be our last … except for dinner back in Oporto, where we had a very special surprise planned for our grand finale.

I’d first like to thank Mario for making this trip such an incredibly fun time. He never lost his fine sense of humor. For the folks that joined us, I know you had a wonderful time and I hope some of you will post your first hand experiences and tasting notes on FTLOP.  Now that I have completed my travelogue of nearly sixty pages, including a few hundred tasting notes, I can look forward to our upcoming trips during the harvest. If you’d like to have more information, please have a look at the following pages on May 6^th when the final dates and itineraries will be released: http://www.fortheloveofport.com/travel.htm