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For The Love Of Port
May 2004
3rd Issue - 5/30/04
Article and photos © copyright 2004 by Roy Hersh
Dear friends of Port wine,
April and May
have turned out to be a pair of excellent months in terms of tasting great
Ports. I have had to travel a bit in order to take part in some special
events, but it was all well worthwhile and FOR THE LOVE OF PORT. Each of
these occasions deserves their own article and tasting notes, and I will
get to them in due course.
In mid-April, I hosted my annual "Port Wine Cellar Depletion Party," this
time, highlighting some great VPs (Vintage Ports) from the past 6 decades.
The recounting of the Seattle happening is featured later in this issue.
Next, I found myself venturing down to Florida in order to taste the great
assemblage of Niepoort Colheitas (going back in time about 140 years).
Dirk van der Niepoort crossed the pond to share these Ports along with a
few Garrafeiras and a smattering of VPs too.
A few weeks later I took a trip to NYC for a fantastic lineup of Taylor's
Quinta de Vargellas VPs including the exalted 1912. In addition, The
Fladgate Partnership held their USA debut of the full triumvirate of
Vargellas Vieilles Vignes.
If that was not enough to keep me happy, a group of some very serious
oenophiles came to Seattle for a pair of awe inspiring wine dinners, and
dessert provided me with a slightly disappointing bottle of 1970 Fonseca
(this from a bottle that recently arrived from London). The next night
though, provided another tasting of my all-time favorite Vintage Port, the
legendary 1931 Quinta do Noval.
I look forward to sharing the notes on these treasures and rare affaires
de vin in an upcoming newsletter.
Each month, as I sit down to write, I open a bottle of Port for
inspiration. At the moment, I am sipping 2000 Quinta do Noval Silval ...
in deference to the 1931 Noval mentioned above. So, at least their is an
interesting juxtaposition for this infanticide. I will include the tasting
note below and will now make this a part of the newsletter each month,
moving forward.
Again, thank you for the emails of encouragement and support. I do my very
best to answer each one personally. Please feel free to share your
opinions or suggestions anytime!
Roy
CONTENTS:
~ Random thoughts: A
Tasting Note
~ Who is that baby?
~ Feature article: Port Wine Cellar Reduction Party: Six Decades of
Vintage Port
~ Check it out: Roy's monthly Port website recommendation
~ IVDP Grand Port Wine Tasting in California
~ Letters and e-feedback
Two Americans were chosen to
be enthroned into the Port Wine Institute's Confraria (Brotherhood) at a
formal ceremony attended by Portuguese President Sampaio. Coincidentally,
both Confrades reside in the Seattle, WA area. Todd Cromwell (left) is a
prominent Port importer and distributor, while your humble narrator is on
the right.
* * * * *
~ A tasting note ...
2000 Quinta do Noval Silval (May 30th, 2004)
 Very
dark purplish-ruby. Floral notes with spice and violets that dominate the
bouquet. A genteel easy-to-drink VP which was tread in lagar at Noval. A
fine concentration of flavors fill the mouth with juicy, dense, ripe
elderberry and plum that puts it's best fruit forward and therefore is
accessible now. The rounded tannins have mellowed since infancy, when the
grip was more prevalent. The finish has gained in both length and
complexity. Although I rated this Silval 90-92 points (5/02) while still a
cask sample, today it deserves 93+ pts., as it shows even more upside
potential. At US $34-$45 this is one heck of a bargain in today's
marketplace, where 375s from the same vintage, have the same price tag.
Who is that baby?
Congratulations are in order for Mr.
and Mrs. Richard Mayson on the birth of their son Edward earlier this
spring. Richard, a well-respected author of assorted tomes on Port and
Madeira is based in London. He is also a wine writer whose articles appear
in Decanter magazine, International Wine and many other periodicals.
Richard took part in my Seattle Port Tasting in April 2003 and it was a
pleasure to have him join us. Hopefully, he'll come back again in 2005 for
the next great Port bash.
***
Feature article
***
_____________________________________________________
FOR THE LOVE
OF PORT©
Should you be interested in
some of my other recent articles on Port, please visit the
Article Archive
_____________________________________________________
Roy's Monthly Port Website Recommendation :
Starting with the
2nd issue that was released in April, I began to include a Port related
website which I have utilized for some time. The inaugural
recommendation was for the IVDP (Port and Douro Wine Institute).
This month's Port website recommendation is: infoportwine.com,
http://www.infoportwine.com/
This website is published both in English and Dutch. Infoportwine.com is
a private initiative of Elly and Herman Gerdingh, a couple from The
Netherlands, and is an independent site. I have never met either of
them, but Herman and and I have been email friends for a few years now.
We share a mutual admiration for each other's passion for Port and
getting the word out, about our favorite grape juice.
I especially enjoy the very simple way in which Infoportwine.com informs
novices and experts alike on topics such as storage, how to serve Port
properly, and especially about the distinction in the various types of
Port. Please have a good look at this site, the information there is
accurate and first rate!
*
* * * *
IVDP Grand Port Wine
Tasting in California ~
Would you like to have an opportunity to
try a wide assortment of wonderful Ports? There will also be some
excellent red wines offered, that are produced in the Douro Valley of
Portugal. Here is your chance, but please act fast, as this event is less
than 2 weeks away!
For those of you that live in California (or
are willing to travel there), the Douro and Port Wine Institute will be
hosting a
Grand Port Wine Tasting
in San Francisco on Thursday, June 10th. There will be over 80 different
Ports from over 20 Port producers, plus many table wines from the Douro
region. More information and tickets are available at:
http://www.acteva.com/go/portotasting
~
Letters and e-feedback:
Hi Roy
...oddly enough, I just returned from a week spent in Portugal, and
tasted some incredible wines. Truly one of the most amazing
wine-producing areas of the world. I share your love of Port!! Looking
forward to your next eNewsletter-
Jeff Brinkman, winemaker at Husch Vineyards, Mendocino CA
Dear Jeff,
Glad to hear you had a great time visiting Portugal and the Douro. From
the food and wine to the charm of the Portuguese people, it is by far my
favorite country in Europe. I never tire of visiting there and hope to
retire there someday. It will give me a good excuse to open a few
bottles of Port. Good luck with your grapes this season!
Roy
**********************************************************************
Hi Roy!
Just thought I drop you a note to check with you on some of the ports
that I have, the first few ports that I have ever purchased:
- Niepoort VP 1984
- Graham VP 1987
- Quinta do Noval VP 1991
- Quinta do Noval VP 1997
A few questions that I have...are they of any good? Do you have any
experience with them? What would the drinking window be like - at least
20 years? How come the Quinta do Noval VP 1991 was so cheap as compared
to the 1997, other than that it's a very much better year, but is the
quality that significantly different to justify the price differences? I
bought the '91 for around US$54 while the '97 cost almost US$113. Did I
overpay?
Would greatly appreciate your thoughts whenever you are free to dispense
your knowledge..ha..ha.. Thanks greatly in advance.
Cheers,
Lee Henn, Malaysia
Dear Lee,
Nice to hear from you my friend, it has been awhile. To get right to
your questions:
a. 1984 Niepoort VP - I have tried dozens of vintages of Niepoort's
great VPs, Colheitas and Garrafeira Ports. I know that Niepoort declared
a 1982 and I have tasted both the 1983 and 1985 and even the 1987 VP and
Colheita, along with the 1988 Colheita from the same decade. I have
never tasted nor even heard of a Niepoort VP from 1984 (although they
did make a Colheita in '84) so I can't comment further.
b. 1987 Graham's VP - This was not a true Graham's VP, as this shipper
did not declare in 1987. They did however release their second label in
1987, which is Quinta dos Malvedos which I have tasted. It is a fine,
dense wine with the stuffing to certainly last for 20 years. It will
most likely drink well now but another 5 years will reward your
patience.
c. 1991 Quinta do Noval VP vs. 1997 Quinta do Noval VP - the price
difference is easy to explain. The 1991 vintage in general, was
overlooked by many Port pundits and the wine press blinked. Even savvy
Port collectors spent more of their dollars on the 1992 vintage that
followed (causing a "split declaration"). I bought 1991s early on at
pre-release prices (from $21 for Warre's to $33 for Quinta do Vesuvio,
although most were in the $26-$28 range). The 1991 Noval was a good VP
but never in the top tier of the vintage. It sells for as little as $25
to $40 today.
The 1997 on the other hand received a 97 pt. rating from the Wine
Spectator which was the highest score of the vintage (not including
Noval's Nacional). Therefore the $150-200 that one would have to pay
today to fetch a bottle of this nectar is justifiably higher than that
paid for the middling 1991 effort.
Lee, I hope this answers your questions.
Roy
*******************************************************************************
Hi Roy
I wanted to tell you I enjoyed your recent (March and April) articles on
VP tasting on the Winelover’s pages. I have only recently discovered the
joys of Port wine, but so far I have only tried some of the LBV and 10
yr old Tawnys. I liked the Niepoort 10 yr tawny a lot, and our local
Costco has a good price on the 10 yr old Warre Otima so we drink that
quite a bit. For me, tawny port is a perfect way to end a great meal.
Your writings have made me feel that I have been missing a great deal by
not having tasted the VPs. Could you recommend a place to start with
VP's? Are the older VP's you write about available for sale
commercially, and could you suggest a source to purchase these wines? I
do have a small cellar and patience so I could lay down some of the
younger ones also. Once opened, should a VP be drunk right away, or will
it stay drinkable for a time?
Thanks very much.
Marc Davis, Bellingham, Washington
Dear Marc,
I always find it intriguing that Port enthusiasts frequently prefer
Tawny Port to Vintage Port or vice versa. It is strictly a stylistic
preference and a matter of taste. I love both but would usually opt for
a great VP over a great Tawny or Colheita. You owe it to yourself to at
least try Vintage Ports. Some call VP, "the King of Port" and feel that
they provide more complexity and purity. Either way, Vintage Port is
certainly one of the greatest and most historic dessert wines in the
world.
Where should you start? I would suggest that you initially look for one
of the producers that you have enjoyed an LBV or Tawny from. Then seek
out a fine recent vintage that won't break the bank. Look for a 1987,
1991 or 1995 to start with as there are many bargains to be found from
each vintage. If you can afford to do so, open two bottles and compare
and contrast the color, aromas, flavor profiles, structure and
aftertaste (finish). Have a few friends join you and make it a fun
evening discussing these VPs. There is no reason to break the bank by
purchasing a legendary older bottle of VP until you at least know that
you like this style of Port. Not everybody does. Since you (and I) live
in Washington, a "reciprocal" State, you can have Port shipped from
another state. California has the greatest number of retail shops and
E-retailers, that offer a wide range of young and old Vintage Ports at
very favorable prices. Take a look at winesearcher.com and you will find
just about any Port you are looking for. If you have questions about a
specific bottling, please feel free to write me again.
Vintage Port once opened, will drink at its best for 48 to 72 hours.
After that, it will lose its freshness no matter how you try to preserve
it. It may still taste good even up to a week (just look at most open
bottles in restaurants that sit recorked on shelves at room temperature
for god knows how long). But there is no question that there is
oxidation taking place and there is a degradation in both aroma and
flavor components. I strongly suggest that you try to finish your VP by
the end of the 2nd day it has been opened. This may be controversial to
some, but I am referring to drinking VP at its best. Some people do
leave opened bottles, recorked in their refrigerators and swear they are
still delicious two weeks later. But now you know my opinion, for what
its worth.
Here is a direct quote from Dirk van der Niepoort. "Remember, Ports that
have spent a long time in wood; you can leave the bottle opened for a
long time. But once a Port has spent a long time in the bottle, then you
should not leave the bottle opened for too long. Vintage Port, you
cannot leave opened for more than 2 days."
Roy
**********************************************************************
Roy -
Your e-mailed newsletter "For the Love of Port" was forwarded to me by a
friend and fellow-winemaker in Cape Town, South Africa (where we both
live). I would like to be included on your e-mailing list if possible -
can you arrange this?
You may be unaware of the important niche position which local port
wines occupy in the Cape wine industry. Apart from other activities our
local wine trade, I am the chairman of the South African Port Producers'
Association (SAPPA), which has about 30 member wine cellars, all of
which produce port-style wine of various types. Our members adhere
more-or-less to the guidelines of our association, regarding grape
varieties used, vinification practices and port styles, such as the four
main ones, ruby, tawny, LBV and vintage. I am pleased to hear you've
been here and know something of our wines, both fortified and natural.
Tony Mossop, South Africa
Dear Tony,
It is nice to hear from you. I was not aware of SAPPA and it is good to
know about this Association. I have tried many So. African ports during
my trips to SA. I have spent entire days with port winemakers there and
have visited a handful of port producers in various parts of the Cape,
yet I have not been out to Calitzdorp where many of the top ports are
now coming from. On one of my trips to SA, I brought along a bottle from
my cellar (a mid-1920s bottle of Tawny port from KWV) to share with the
heads of the Pinotage Association. On my last visit in Dec. '03, I
brought a 1939 KWV Tawny with me to SA to drink with some winemaker
friends at a dinner. I would like to get to Calitzdorp on my next trip
there and learn more about some of the newer projects from the up and
coming port capital of the Cape. Best regards!
Roy
Note: Tony Mossop is a very well known and respected SA journalist, wine
judge, winemaker and CWM (Cape Wine Master) which is like an MW.
*******************************************************************
Roy,
I would have posted this on the Squire's board but I wanted to keep it
pretty specific so that it is helpful. The dilemma, I am 36 and realize
that Ports are babies at 25 (the port tasting you had, taught me that)
so that would mean that by the time I am 40, I should have purchased
most of my Ports (I know I can still fill in but it would be nice to
have them now so there will not be the risk with storage.) So what would
you recommend I look to add (producer and vintage) if I would like to
spend $2000 a year for the next 4 years on Port not including the
current year's release. This could be some to drink now but most for the
next 30 or so years. Oh and I currently drink about 6 bottles a year, I
would like to increase that but I feel bad drinking babies.
Jason Domanico, Washington
Dear Jason,
I did not include your attached listing of your Port collection but
appreciate you forwarding it so I could offer a sound strategy for you.
First, let me say that I am soon to turn 47 and don't feel like I need
to stop buying VPs due to my age. I do however purchase mostly
ready-to-drink (mature) or very rare bottles at this stage of
collecting. So please don't think at 36 with 50 years of drinking days
ahead that you need to be concerned...yet. At 50 years of age it would
be a very different story though.
Looking at your specific list, I can see that you have a fairly broad
spectrum of Ports from the major vintages from 1966-2000. Given your age
and an $8,000 budget over four years, I would suggest the following:
Although you have many blue chip names, it also pays to buy names that
are missing from your collection that produce very good to excellent
Ports. I don't see any Quinta do Noval, Sandeman, Dow, Niepoort,
Ferreira, Quinta do Vesuvio, Croft or Cockburn ... just to name a few.
Spread the wealth and obtain more of the producers from the top vintages
and then look for some underappreciated wines as well.
For example, I would make sure to pick up a few more 1970 and 1977 Ports
for consumption over the next 20 years. Then I would concentrate on 1983
and to a lesser degree, 1985s. Of course you should make a point of
buying 1994, 1997 and definitely the 2000s too. I am pretty confidant
that 2003 will be a generally declared vintage (from whispered reports
out of Portugal). In fact, I would probably plunk down your first $1-2k
on 2003 "en primeur" (buying futures) VPs. Pick four to six producers
and buy a half case of each of their wines.
Then I would spend the next three years focusing on each of the other
decades ('70s, '80s and '90s) respectively. Watch the auction market and
learn before testing the waters. Make sure you understand the right
questions to ask re: provenance. Then go shopping. Lastly, I would urge
you to look for some VPs that were missed by radar. For example, 1980
produced some very fine VPs but the vintage (like 1991) never received
notoriety or respect. I find the Dow, Graham and Fonseca to be very good
indeed and huge bargains. Many 1983s are still undervalued too. Shoot
for some of the names I mentioned above (and others) in top vintages
like 1970 where Niepoort made a great VP, but everyone looks for
Fonseca/Taylor/Graham/Dow. 1995s are fantastic bargains today and VPs
like Ferreira and Martinez's Eira Velha are wonderful and cheap in the
scheme of things.
There are many such examples, but I can't list all of them here. Suffice
it to say, that reading and research and finding a few key retailers to
trust, is just about as important as having the money to invest in your
future drinking pleasure. Take it slow and please feel free to email
with any specifics you may have.
_____________________________________________
Should you
be interested in some of my recent articles on Port, please visit our
Article Archive. I welcome
your feedback, critiques, suggestions, or questions on any Port related
topics. Please be sure to mention if you do not want your email (whole or
in part) incorporated into the text of the newsletter*.
My e-mail address is:
roy@fortheloveofport.com
and I look forward to
hearing from you. I will do my personal best to respond to all e-mails
addressed to me, in a timely manner.
Roy Hersh
*** LEGAL STUFF***
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