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For The Love Of Port
January 2005
7th Issue

Article and photos © copyright 2004 by Roy Hersh

Dear friends of Port wine,

The beginning of this New Year does not feel as jovial is it has in past years, with current world events that linger on the mind. Yet it is time for some optimism and hope and a look towards brighter days to come. With this in mind, I look forward to 2005 and improving the newsletter and along the way, launching a website to respond to your suggestions for increased interactivity, as well as a broader framework for offering more information on Port.

An intermediary step will be using a Window’s based platform as an attachment, instead of producing and sending it on AOL’s server. This modification will make,
For The Love Of Port, easier to read for the vast majority of recipient’s. Thanks to Michael Bryan of Atlanta, for first alerting me to the difficulty he had in deciphering facets of the newsletter in the previous format. While I explore a more professional design, please bear with me and feel free to provide feedback, questions or suggestions.

There are a few “new” features this month and as always, a number of excellent Port inquiries to read.
 
Thanks for your supPort!
 
Roy
 
 
CONTENTS:
~ News Exclusive: 2004 Vintage Report
~ Feature article: Madeira’s Sweet Nectars: Malvasia & Moscatel
~ January's Tasting Note: 1994 Quinta do Cachão
~ Roy's monthly Port website recommendation
~ Book report: Port and the Douro
~ PortoLover's Mailbag: Letters and e-feedback
 

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~ January's Tasting Note: 1994 Quinta do Cachão

Vinhos Messias owns the Quinta do Cachão with nearly 300 acres planted to vine, (Cachão is Portuguese for waterfall), which is way up the Douro River near the Tua River and not far from Quinta de Vargellas, has never been known for their Port, much less Vintage Port.  A pretty property with olive oil production and almonds growing is well suited for Port making.   Messias mostly makes table wines from the various regions around Portugal.  They are fine producers of the aguardente, (brandy used in the fortification process) and have only been selling Port for about 70 years.  The Quinta do Cachão vineyards were first planted circa 1845 and Messias did not get their hands on this property until the mid-1950s.  In the end of the 1800s, even after Phylloxera, Cachão had some sustainable ungrafted vines in its vineyard.  Their Ports are rarely exciting, but I had been given a heads up about their 1994 LBV and I located a bottle.  My expectations were modest and I was hoping for a nice surprise.

 Immediately I was struck by the color which was beautiful to look at and hard to describe.  It was reminiscent of a cherry wood furniture color, with some light red/orangeish/brown color.  This looked much more like a very old Tawny or Colheita.  Aromatically it was showing mature notes as well, with some vanilla cream, ripe dates, high-toned varnish (remember, I like VA in Madeira!), and a pronounced walnut essence.  On the palate, this had no link to a ten year old LBV, but that mattered not.  The mouth feel was very soft and this was like drinking a fully resolved 75 year old VP.   Great complexity if you can wrap your head around some heat on the finish.  It offers medium weight but is just lovely to roll around the tongue with the flavors of date ‘n nut bread, fondly remembered from childhood.  I am glad that nobody tried to make me guess this one blind.  I’d never have guessed it correctly!  All in all, it is an elegant, yet atypical glass of LBV.  I will be buying more at the bargain price of $16, here in WA.  On the bottle it is written:  Imported by Luiz’s Grocery and Liquor, Inc.  Fall River MA (Massachusetts).  BTW, there was a decent amount of sediment in this bottle, so decanting is essential.   91 points

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THE DOURO:  2004 VINTAGE REPORT

Richard Mayson was kind enough to provide us an exclusive look into the harvest conditions up the river in the Douro Valley, that may provide some surprises.

The 2004 harvest in the Douro kept us all on a knife-edge but ultimately surpassed all expectations. It followed an extraordinary growing season with wet weather at the end of 2003 and an incredibly dry start to 2004. At Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim just 147mm of rain fell during the first four months of the year - less than half the ten-year average.  Flowering went well in all three Douro sub-regions but fruit set was slightly less successful due to very rapid shoot growth encouraged by the warm, sunny conditions in May. July was hot with temperatures reaching 40oC towards the end of the month. Vineyards remained in excellent condition but as August approached (normally the hottest month with no rainfall at all), growers became concerned as to how the vines would cope with the low water reserves in the soil.  Then the unheard of happened. Rain fell on three consecutive days in early August followed by yet more rainfall in the middle of the month. In total 77mm fell at Quinta do Bomfim making this the wettest August in the north of Portugal for 104 years! The weather remained abnormally cool and overcast into September, slowing down the ripening process. When wet, unsettled weather returned in the first week of September growers faced a major dilemma: start picking under-ripe grapes early before rot sets in or hold on in the hope of better weather.

Most growers held their nerve and, just in the nick of time, the sunshine returned. Sugar levels rose suddenly, taking many by surprise, and continued to rise as temperatures exceeded 30oC.  Picking began around the middle of the month and continued through uninterrupted sunshine. Not a drop of rain fell until 8th October when a deep depression moved in from the Atlantic, by which time the harvest was all but complete.  In 40 harvests, Peter Symington (winemaker for Dow, Graham and Warre) commented that had never seen a vintage that could have swung so easily between near disaster or success.

With yields down slightly on the previous year, the overriding feature of 2004 is the balance of the musts. Although sugar readings were high (in excess of 13 Baume in most places and occasionally as high as 19) acidity was good and pH/Baume ratios were excellent. Charles Symington (Peter’s son), commenting on wines that were still just a few days old, said they show good colour, power and structure. Jim Reader, head winemaker for Cockburn reports that ‘initial tastings are promising and although the analytical results have not thrown up so many of the really forceful tannic wines of last year, tasting some of the wines indicates that the fruit/tannin/colour balance will be excellent.’

Much depends on how the wines evolve over the next few months but with two fine years in a row, the shippers are now presented with a dilemma as to which will be worthy of a fully-fledged vintage declaration.

RICHARD MAYSON, London, November 2004

 
 

 *** Feature article  ***

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    FOR THE LOVE OF PORT© ~ Madeira’s Sweet Nectars: Malvasia & Moscatel

Old vintage Madeira is magical, mystical and fortunately, just too darn expensive to drink on a frequent basis. Many fine examples of older Madeira simply offer the most complex, long lasting thrill-ride of a finish of any wine made.

So says Roy Hersh, our resident expert on Ports and fortified wines, who recently had the pleasure of joining with a small group of serious Madeira lovers for a weekend of wine events that culminated with a fabulous lineup of Malvasia and Moscatel from Madeira, going back in time to 1808.  In total, there was a combined bottle age of 2,248 years, with an average per bottle age of 132 years. Here's his report, with photos and tasting notes:

Madeira's Sweet Nectars: Malvazia and Moscatel

Should you be interested in some of my other recent articles on Port, please visit the
Article Archive
 
 
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Roy's Monthly Port Website Recommendation :

 

This month's web recommendation breaks from tradition and promotes another writer’s FREE wine newsletter.  Why would I abandon suggesting a Port website in favor of a competing newsletter?  It is simple.  After reading NAT DECANTS for nearly a year now, I have found it to be an outstanding resource and it always makes for an enjoyable and educational read.  It is filled with wine picks, articles and humor from Natalie MacLean, recently named the “World’s Best Drink Writer” at the World Food Media Awards in Australia (amongst many other awards that Natalie has garnered for her excellence in writing).  To sign up for this newsletter (that has no advertisements), visit:  http://www.nataliemaclean.com/

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Are you hunting for a job this season?     

Perhaps you'll find your dream job in the wine industry at this website where you can post your résumé, search for openings and apply for jobs at wineries, restaurants and hotels in North America, Australia or Europe.  I know both founding partners of this website, from when I first moved to Washington State.  We all worked for the same company and then they had this great idea.  I am happy to see how well their venture has taken off and their greatest success is the number of people they have helped.  Dozens of wineries participate and  Wineandhospitalityjobs.com is a winner.  So, go check it out and begin 2005 with a bang!

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~ Letters and e-feedback:
 

This is where your influence counts!  You send in your questions on Port, suggestions for improving this newsletter or ideas for future consideration.  I do my very best to respond to each and every email I receive and include some of those responses to the questions, here:

Hi Roy,

Thanks for your advice on the ’87 Vargellas. I got some at $29.95 each and will be trying one very soon.

Another question, if you don’t mind.  I want to get the 2000 Niepoort VP that you recommend so highly, but it’s hard to tell what some retailers really have.  I understand from my reading, especially of your note on the eRP/Squires’ bulletin board, that the Secundum, the Passadouro and the Broadbent are all alternative bottlings and are not the classic Vintage Port bottling.  However, K&L Wine Merchants’ listing called “2000 Niepoort Vintage” gives the 90 point Parker tasting note for the Broadbent; similarly, the Zachy’s item called “2000 Niepoort Port” lists the 90 point score Parker gave to the Broadbent (as well as to the Secundum), along with the 94 Wine Spectator apparently gave the Vintage Port, and a 93 score from IWC.  Since I’ll probably be buying sight unseen, I want to verify with a potential seller exactly what they’re selling.  Would you explain to me how to distinguish the bottle and/or label of the classic VP bottling from that of the Broadbent bottling?  With this information I can confirm what they have before I place an order.  I would really appreciate your help.

Thanks again,

Matt Jaffe, Huntington Valley, Pennsylvania USA

Hi Matt,

It is actually simpler than it sounds. Broadbent is a separate and distinct company’s product from that of Niepoort. Niepoort does actually make and bottle the wines for the Broadbent family’s line of Ports. The Niepoort name is not prominently displayed on the Broadbent label, although it does appear in a small description on the back label. Secundum and the Quinta do Passadouro bottlings will have these monikers prominently displayed on the front label. The classic Vintage Port produced by Dirk van der Niepoort has no other descriptions and the Niepoort name is boldly splayed across the bottle. The capsule will be yellow. Actually, a picture is worth a thousand words, so here you go! (note: this picture show the 1997).

Best regards,

Roy

Roy,

I signed up a month or so ago, and received your e-Newsletter #6, but I'm still waiting for the '04 vintage report you mentioned a couple weeks ago.  I am also interested in back issues (please send 'em all if you can!), especially if you have a report on '03.  Any word on declarations for '03/'04?

Cheers,

Mike Nelms, Reno, Nevada USA

Hi Mike,

I think you will get your answers in Richard Mayson’s 2004 Vintage Report which he provided as an exclusive for us to include in this issue. I have sent back issues to you and please let me know when you are ready for the next set.

Regards,

Roy

Dear Sir,

 I do have one quick port question to ask if you have the time. My wife's birthday is this Friday. I have purchased a Taylor’s 1960 VP (year of her birth) for this occasion. After I purchased it I did a lot of research and haven't found much good said about it. Do you have an opinion on this bottle? Should I get something else in order to avoid disappointment? For what it is worth, the bottle is in pristine condition and is supposed to have been cellared in perfect conditions since release. Any opinion you could offer would be greatly appreciated.

 Thanks,

Mark Fenton, Saint Charles, Missouri USA

Hi Mark,

 My single tasting note on this is almost ten years old.  Back in 1995, from a pristine bottle from a UK cellar, this was already over the hill and not even a pleasant tawny.  It showed lots of alcohol and probably was never a great wine to begin with.  There are not many fine 1960s out there, including Quinta do Noval Nacional and Chateau d’Yquem. It is right between two great Bordeaux vintages though.

 I don't know if it is any help, but I have some of the Croft 1960, which is the top rated Vintage Port from that vintage.  I have not had a bottle since my brother's 40th birthday in 2000, as that is his birth year too.  I can tell you that it is significantly better than the Taylor.  Let me know how your bottle drinks when you two have it, please. Hopefully your bottle will drink better than my last one.

 Best regards,

Roy

Roy,

I have heard that I should refrigerate white port.  Is that true?

Thanks for your help,

Noah Brodsky
Di Mare Restaurant Manager
Gerente del Restaurante Di Mare
Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo
Guanacaste, Costa Rica

Hi Noah,

You should store white Port in a cool cellar just as you would any other wine.  If for some reason it is moved prior to service, I suggest chilling the white Port down to about 50-55 degrees.

 Best regards,

 Roy

Hi Roy,

First of all, you deserve one big thanks for your very informative and entertaining articles on Port, they are an amazing resource, thanks a lot !

I live in Montreal, Quebec, Canada, where all alcohols are legislated (ie bought and sold) by a governmental institution, namely the SAQ.  That limits our variety and also increases the prices of the products due to the crazy tax rate. On a positive note, they also insure at least a minimum of quality.

I recently got very interested in Port after tasting a Cabral 20 years of age tawny. Nothing spectacular to a professional like you but to me it started it all (and that's only a few months ago).  As I just mentioned earlier on, I believe prices are way higher than let’s say down in the US. I was wondering if you had any suggestions on where to purchase Port close to the border or somewhere else in Canada.  When I say expensive I mean something like 600 $ per bottle for a Taylor Vintage 1970 (fyi, I am not looking to purchase such an expensive Port in this life, this is just a reference point ;) ) when I could find it online for a lot less.  The only affordable vintage I could find (i.e. sub 100 $) was a Barros 1985 at 65 $.  Unfortunately I couldn't find any tasting notes concerning this port which together with the rather cheap price leads me to think it's probably not worth it.  Is it simply not realistic to look for decent Vintage in a sub 100 $ category?   I understand and respect the fact that those products are probably well worth the money from a professional point of view, but as a beginner and also a 23 years old freshly graduate student, a bottle of anything at over 50 $ is somewhat a lot of money.  Are there any recommendations you could make for someone on a tight budget (in any kind of Ports)?  Last question: what do you think of the Barros Colheita 1966? It's one of the very few Colheita available here in Quebec and was recommended in a book that I recently read (price 135 $).

Thanks a lot for your precious time,

Mathieu Brisson, Montreal, Canada

PS - I would like to be part of your mailing list if possible.

Bonjour Mathieu,

Thanks for the kind words. You raise many interesting points in your email and I will try to address them the best that I can.

Since I live about 100 miles away from Vancouver, Canada, I am pretty familiar with the Province buying system there. I think that another benefit to the “system” is finding some otherwise very obscure brands that may be brought into your area, such as the Cabral.

As far as a Cabral 20 year old Tawny, I would try it any day. As you can tell from my tasting note in this issue, I enjoy trying any kind of Port wine (the one I had was only $16) and I can thoroughly enjoy an inexpensive one, or young one like the ’94 Cachão LBV as well as a more expensive Vintage Port.

Unfortunately, living 3,500 miles away from your area, I am not that familiar with wine shops there that I can recommend. Hopefully, one of the MANY folks from Canada that read this, will be able to send a response for you, in which case, I will forward an email to you. I would not suggest trying to cross the border with wine from the USA to Canada anyway as the limits are pretty small and “smuggling” is not legal.

Barros makes some very good Ports but they are mostly wood-aged. Their vintage Ports circa 1985 were pretty weak, and that specific vintage certainly falls under that generalization too. The 1966 Colheita is one that might be worthy of the gamble at that price, as other Colheitas I have tried from 1966 have always shown well. Barros does make some nice Colheitas and the ‘66 might be worth a punt.

I do think you can find some good Vintage Ports under $100 Canadian. The challenge though is not the price but availability and I have no idea what is brought into your specific Province. But I suggest looking at some under appreciated vintages like 1980, 1987, 1991 and 1995 to name a few. You should be able to find some really nice bargains from those vintages which get less attention than other very well known vintages like 1977, 1983, 1985, 1994, 1997 etc. At your age, you can buy these younger vintage Ports today and lay them down so that when you get to be my age … you too will have a nice and mature collection of Vintage Ports.

Your other option is to really try a vast selection of LBV Ports. Not only do Late Bottled Vintage Ports represent a great bargain, while somewhat emulating the flavor profiles of true Vintage Port, but they are able to be consumed over the course of a few weeks, after opening the bottle, which is a big plus.

Best regards,

Roy

Hi Roy,

Someone asked me to recommend a nice bottle of Port as a gift for immediate consumption and I recommended a 20-year Tawny as the target. Can you recommend a bottle? I was looking at the Warre's Optima 20 year old. Is that a good bottle or is there something else that is better?

TIA,

Greg Piatigorski, San Ramon, California USA

Greg,

I recently had the Warre’s Otima 20 year old Tawny for the first time in November.  They’ve had a 10 year old for the past few years but I had never seen the 20 year old before. Besides the “edgy” packaging, the 20 year old was a significant upgrade from the simple 10 year old Otima.  It is a well made wine and I enjoyed it quite a bit. There are many fine 20 year old Tawny Ports, yet I would strongly suggest the Ferreira’s Duque de Bragança 20 year old.  I think it is often sold at the WinExchange and Wine Club both in CA.  It is my personal favorite 20 year old Tawny, albeit it is a bit more expensive than most. Give it a try and let me know what you think. You won’t be disappointed.

Best regards,

Roy

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Roy,

Thanks for answering my question on the '45 Taylor on eRobert Parker. Wish we could have decanted as it continued to improve over the 30-45 minutes that my pour was in my glass. If only there is a next time...

I'd also like your opinion on decanting times for some ports and which of these would be best to drink now (next few months):

From 375: '83 Warres, '92&'92 Fonseca, '94 Grahams, '94 Dows, '95 Taylor VV

From 750: '83 Fonseca, '83 Taylor, '91 Grahams.

I often see port at auction with "slight signs of past seepage." While this is an instant deal breaker for Bordeaux or really anything else, it seems that vintage port is hardier and perhaps more prone to leakage (not necessarily from heat). I'm tempted to pick up a small lot at a good price and take my chances since I have had bottles of port which looked terrible but tasted superb. Any thoughts (realizing that every seeping bottle is different).

Cheers, Mike

Dear Mike

Ahhhh, I have such fond memories of the 1945 Taylor's. One can never sip enough of that particular vintage Port!

I will do my best to help you with decanting times on your bottles, but this is a very subjective area. Some folks like to watch their VPs evolve in glass and feel that extended decanting robs a wine of showing its natural development. I respect that opinion and understand the thought process too. For my own palate though, I prefer to have the wine show at its best from the get go, as I tend to finish 99% of the VP bottles that I open ... within a couple of hours. If I am sharing a bottle with a group ... it goes way too quickly, so I want the finest showing possible when it touches my glass.

From 375:

* '83 Warre 3-5 hrs.

* '92 Fonseca 6-8 hrs.

* '94 Graham or Dow 6-8 hrs.

* '95 Vargellas VV 6-8 hrs.

From 750:

* '83 Fonseca 6-8 hrs.

* '83 Taylor 5-7 hrs.

* '91 Graham 6-8 hrs.

I like a bargain as much as the next guy Mike, but I don't believe you find them too often at auction these days. When you can tell that a VP bottle has been a "leaker" with signs of corrosion on the capsule (esp. around the bottom of it), or viscous syrupy goo around it, or visible signs that wine dripped onto the IVP label etc ... I can't see why you'd intentionally risk your money. Yes, Vintage Port with its higher level of alcohol, can withstand conditions that would destroy most other types of wine. But, VP is NOT invincible! It too can suffer from heat damage that a bottle can't survive without vastly changed characteristics (unless it is Madeira!).

Now this is certainly different than laying down an old Port in your cellar, and a slight amount of seepage occurs as the cork's flexibility is lost over the decades (especially in DRY cellars with low relative humidity below 60% although 70% is more desireable). Then by all means, the bottle will rarely have almost any effect. There are ways to cure this too, but that is another story. Anyway, I would advise against buying wine bottles - or - VP that you know may have an issue. There are enough things to worry about, even when buying a wine at auction that LOOKS pristine!

But bargain hunters may certainly disagree with my theory. Even I will seek out a stained or torn label or cracked wax capsule on a very old bottle that can save significant sums. Normally though, I would rather pay another $20-40 for a typical auction bottle and be sure that it came from a well stored and documentable source ... but that is just me.

Roy

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Dear Mr. Hersh,

I have just started to develop a taste for Port and am interested in learning more. I have several questions that I wish to pose and I hope that you would be willing to answer them. I was searching the internet and came across an article that you wrote about tasting port from the Quinta do Noval Nacional brand, which is where I acquired your email address from.

My first question is that of seepage. What is it and how can you tell whether the bottle has suffered from it. Secondly, I have just purchased a bottle of Kopke Colheita from 1965. As I understand it colheita's should be drunk within 1 year of it being bottled. Can these colheita's be kept longer in the bottle? This partcular specimen was bottled in 1985! I have not yet tasted it and am waiting for a special moment.

I will refrain from asking further questions in the hope that you will first respond to this email. If you would prefer not receive any more
questions please feel free to say so and I will not pursue any further. Many thanks in advance.

An upcoming port lover,

Jeroen Ijsselstein
The Netherlands

Dear Jeroen,

I appreciate the politeness, but please call me Roy. I am not THAT old, yet.

Long before I started scribing this newsletter, I spent lots of my free time responding to Port related emails from all over the place. You can say I love doing so, but I have also sworn an oath (to the Port Wine Institute) that I take very seriously ... and now look at this as, "my duty!" So please feel free to email me with more of your Port questions, anytime!

Coincidentally, the seepage issue was discussed in detail in the Q&A topic above. But, I am happy to tackle your questions about Colheitas. I do not believe I have had the 1965 Kopke Colheita but know I have had the Krohn from that year. But from tasting Kopke Colheitas that span 70 years, I can tell you that they miss the mark on very rare occasions. Along with Niepoort and Quinta do Noval (I opened the '37 Noval Colheita last Friday night, in fact), these 3 producers are at the pinnacle of Colheita producers although there are another handful that also do a great job.

In terms of drinking Colheitas as close to the bottling date as possible ... I disagree with that opinion. This is not like "born-on-dating" by Budweiser, and there is NO proof that this is true, whatsoever. I have tasted many Colheitas from just about all the producers and I have not found this to be accurate from my experience. I have never seen any tasting at which aged bottles of Colheita did not show well. Conversely, I have tasted quite a few examples where older bottlings were absolutely delicious. Dirk van der Niepoort, the maestro of Colheita and Garrafeira styles of Port is a firm believer that Colheitas can and do improve with bottle age. In a recent newsletter, I tackled this topic in great detail. Please email me again if you are interested in receiving a back copy ... if you missed it.

Thanks Jeroen, for taking the time to pose such a thoughtful question!

Roy

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Hello Roy,

I am excited to be receiving your newsletter. It is very informative on the sometimes esoteric subject of Port wines. I have a bottle of the 1992 Quinta do Infantado that at one time (during my move across the country) was subjected to some heat for a day or two. When it arrived, it had become a "leaker". My feeling is that heat sometimes reveals the marginality of the state of the cork, and that in this situation the '92 Infantado re-sealed itself even better than before because the port had "filled in the cracks". It may sound as if I am trying to rationalize this, but it is because the bottle is special. It is my son's birthyear bottle of port (1992), and I would like to keep it for 20 years before opening it or giving it to him. Any worries on the seal?

Best Regards,

Kurt Wieneke

Indianapolis, IN

Dear Kurt,

Good to hear from you again! Port an esoteric topic? Please don't share that with my wife, I have her totally fooled into believing Port is just an everyday good drink.

As to your dilemma with the 1992 Infantado which I am a fan of, as well, I can not pass judgement on your bottle. It is impossible for me to know what temperature and the duration to which your bottle was exposed to the heat. So, I will just give you some off the cuff opinions on this topic. In older bottlings, when lead or other metal capsules were used for bottling VP as a rule, the cross contamination of "leakers" could hurt the wine. There is a chemical reaction between the metal and the acid in the wine that causes the corrosive action you notice on some leakers. Well that wine that seeps out of the cork, reacts and then can just as easily seep back into the bottle. Obviously, the longer you hold onto a bottle like this ... the more chances you take. That said, if the heat exposure was not high (below 80 degrees) and not long (only a few hours), then your bottle is probably fine. But for long term storage ... you really don't know unless you remember how long and at what temps. the bottle WAS subjected to.

My advice is this. Your son's birthyear wines ARE special. But I would NOT count on that bottle to go the distance ... even though it possibly could. Just imagine when he turns 21 in 2013 and you have very special guests to share the bottle, and you open it and it is really foul. YIKES. For the $60-$75 that it will cost you to replace that bottle ... I strongly urge you to go out and purchase more bottles, tomorrow, to ensure you have these for any of his special celebrations! Why wait, you can open the "seepage" bottle on his birthday this year as he becomes a teenager. Now that is something to celebrate!

Roy

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Roy

I just picked up a bottle Kopke Colheita 1987 Port. I can't find a lot of information on this particular vintage. Their home page indicated it did win a Gold Medal for the 87', but can't find a value anywhere. Paid $25.97 for the bottle. Any information you could give me about this bottle would be appreciated. Drink or hold? Or is it worth holding? Thanks,

Randy Dorrington
Kalispell, Montana

P.S. Not a lot of Port lovers up in this neck of the woods.

Dear Randy,

Absolutely an amazing coincidence. As you know, I had a bottle of this identical wine open in front of me when you first sent me the email. This bottle of Kopke is drinking beautifully nowadays and may still improve a bit, yet it is one that is also worthy of consuming today. It is rich, multi-layered and very enjoyable to say the least. It drinks as if it were quite a bit older, too. Two YUMS up! Enjoy it and let me know your thoughts.

By the way, you can make the difference and get the locals to drink more Port and less beer!

BEST REGARDS!

Roy

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Roy

I just want to email you my question on Port and would appreciate your response: Does Port keep once it's opened, or is it like Red which will spoil in a couple of days?" I would be honored if you included and answered this question in any of your upcoming newsletters. Thanks, and looking forward to reading the next "For the Love of Port."

SP

Dear SP,

Depending on the style, (Tawny, LBV, Vintage etc...) once a bottle of Port wine is opened, the shelf life varies. Red wine rarely is drinkable past the second day but then again, we are comparing a table wine with a "fortified" wine (Port has 20% brandy added to prematurely stop the fermentation process). In responding directly to your question though, assume that the my response includes recorking your bottle and storing it in the refrigerator until you drink it again. Obviously, the faster you consume the wine ... the fresher it will smell and taste. So, looking at some of the more popular styles of Port, here is a generalized guide:

* Vintage Character (soon to be simply known as "Reserve")Port - a week is best, two if quality is less important.

* 10, 20, 30, or 40 Year Old Tawny Port - drink as close to the date of bottling (on label) as possible. Can last for a couple of weeks if handled as mentioned. I have seen restaurants leave it open on their shelves for months, but that is a criminal offense!

* LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) Port - a week is best, two if quality is less important.

* Colheita (single vintage Tawny) Port - I believe that once opened these should be consumed like a Vintage Port, although they CAN last like a Tawny above (unlike VP).

* Vintage (the king of) Port - Unless experimenting or analyzing, a VP should never see the light of the next day, although this is more of a personal "rule" than one of the official guidelines here! Since this is not about me, you can actually have a Vintage Port hold 1 -72 hours depending on the age of the bottle. An 1896 Quinta do Noval VP will most likely be heading downhill fast after an hour and at best two. Then again, you may find a pristine bottle of 1945 Taylor (mentioned above) which should easily drink well a 2nd day (how the heck would I know?), whereas a Graham 1963 could last 48 hours if the bottle had been properly stored. But most people are wondering about bottles from 1970 - 1985 for drinking today and I suggest that 48-72 hours is the outside for these bottles. Anything younger like a 1994 or even a 2000 could probably hold an extra day ... but what for. If you know that it is difficult for you to finish a full bottle of Vintage Port and you love them nonetheless, buy 375 (half bottles) and never have the issue arise. That is why this size is made. Personally, I would love to have 500 ml bottles of VP, but that would be very dangerous for my liver. Some folks claim that they keep vintage Ports around for a week and that they just keep getting better. I can only pontificate and would think it would be very difficult for that to happen as there is no question that if you compare a freshly opened bottle to one open for a week, most regular consumers of wine could tell the difference in freshness. Will it spoil and turn to vinegar? No. But after 3 days most folks can usually tell the difference unless the VP is very young and/or served cold.

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Hi Roy,

I was on vacation in Banff & ran across some Port with fine provenance at a shop I have done well with in the past. I ended up buying the '80 Taylor & the '85 Dow for a total of less than $130 US. I figured for that amount of money why not take the chance. Any thoughts on the 2 wines. I would think the '80 might be close to prime time.

Thanks for any thoughts,

David M. Bueker, Connecticut

Howdy David,

Both are good wines although I prefer the '85 Dow to the '80 Taylor (the latter of which I have not had in a few years though). Both will drink well now but certainly the '80 will show more maturity than the very youthful Dow. I think you received decent pricing too.

Best regards,

Roy

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Hi Roy,

I was wondering your opinion of this port. I haven't had it in a number of years but I remember being pretty impressed by it. I didn't think it was in the same class as the 1994 Vesuvio but that's tough company. Premier Cru has the 1995 for $40 for 750s and I was thinking of picking up a few.

Best regards,

Hal Blumberg

Seattle, Washington

Hal,

I personally find the 1994 Quinta do Vesuvio one of the best made VPs of the vintage. I had one a few months ago and it was mind numbing with in your face, fruit forward dark chewy and dense berry pie. This is a beautiful baby with all the right stuffing to kick it into high gear in another 25 years when it starts becoming a bit more tame. The 1995 is a lot more approachable today, yet the structure is well suited for aging too. This is no shy flower and it seems that Vesuvio is on a serious roll since the early 1990s. The Symington's have done a great job with this property, and given the fact that Qd Vesuvio releases a VP just about every single year ... the quality in bottle has been very consistent. The house style has certainly emerged and I believe that within one more decade this will surpass many of the names that we now look at as very fine producers. Even their "off"vintage, VPs in 1996 and 1999 have been exceptional wines. So my suggestion is to buy anything with the name Vesuvio on the bottle.

Roy

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Should you be interested in some of my recent articles on Port, please visit our Article Archive. I welcome your feedback, critiques, suggestions, or questions on any Port related topics.  Please be sure to mention if you do not want your email (whole or in part) incorporated into the text of the newsletter*.  My e-mail address is: roy@fortheloveofport.com and I look forward to hearing from you.  I will do my personal best to respond to all e-mails addressed to me, in a timely manner.

Roy Hersh

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