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What's going on? |
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Written by Roy Hersh
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Thursday, 23 April 2009 04:34 |
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Well today is St. George's day and a few times a decade that has a very significant meaning.
With the Symington Family Estates and a few dozen other Port shippers and producers already on the record with their "declarations," today we learned of The Fladgate Partnership's declaration of their Croft, Fonseca and Taylor 2007 Vintage Port as well. With more than half of the industry now committed, I will go out on a limb and say it is quite apparent that 2007 will be considered by the IVDP as a "generally declared" vintage and soon, the Confraria celebration will take place.
In direct email commuinques, I've learned of nearly a half dozen producers of Port, which have for some reason decided not to declare the '07 vintage and I asked them "why"? Their responses were vague (at best) and I am afraid that hindsight may have them second guessing themselves in a decade or two. I realize the economy is not looking bright at the moment, but current vintage declarations are more about the next generation. The vast majority of the trade seems to understand the importance of a declaration at this moment in time; to bolster the image of Port and bringing it back en vogue and what better way to move out of a lethargic market than an infusion of excitement of a new vintage?
This week has been fun for some interesting wine tastings. I was over at a new friend's home, as she had put together a group of wine lovers to explore a vertical tasting of Ridge Geyserville with 15 vintages represented from 1988-2007. My wife who tends to avoid wine events of this nature was in rare form and had a great time with this new group. In addition to my bottles that were included in the mix, I brought a nice Madeira (1968 Barbeito Bual) to introduce them to the delights of Madeira. Fortunately, it went over very well indeed.
Last night, Stewart Todd (the FTLOP VP of Technology) was over at our home with his family. My wife Dorene was in rare form as we opened a nice grouping of wines from Portugal and Italy. Since today was also Stewart's Birthday, we had an appropriate dessert planned, along with a pair of Ports. I wanted to provide a blind comparison for him of a Single Quinta Vintage Port and also present a VP close in proximity to the first Port's vintage, but from the same Shipper's best of show. In this case it was the 2001 Churchill's Quinta da Gricha and the 2003 Churchill's VP. The former was elegant and very ready to drink with a near term life expectancy, while the 2003 showed mid-term ageability and more effusive forward fruit and solid underpinnings of structure and a lusty aftertaste.
Tonight I plan to finish the remaining glass of each and plan the menu and wines for friends joining us for dinner on Saturday night. Afterall, I need to get my liver in shape for what is about to unfold during the upcoming Fortification Tour. I leave for Portugal a week from today and am really looking forward to it!
Not a FTLOP subscriber yet? It is time to take the plunge ... just click here: http://www.fortheloveofport.com/website/subscribe-to-ftlop
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Last Updated on Tuesday, 06 April 2010 07:29 |
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The Buzz - 2007 VP's "Generally Declared" |
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Written by Roy Hersh
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Thursday, 02 April 2009 04:34 |
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Great news has started to pour in from Portugal as the excitement builds with the news that 2007 Vintage Ports will be declared by the vast majority of Port Shippers & Producers.
It has been four years since the last generally declared vintage. As Port sales have dwindled every year after the 2003's were released in late 2005 and early 2006, there is nothing that could reverse the trend faster or better than a vintage like 2007.
Cooler heads will prevail until these youngsters are actually tasted, nonetheless, one can not ignore the excitement. Although many are doing their best not to over-hype this vintage, there's no question that the pride is showing as the trade knows what they have ready to be bottled. Some have likened the 2007s to 1970, while others refrain from grandiose proclamations this early in the game.
Afterall, en primeur pricing has not yet been firmed up and in fact, in speaking to the IVDP, Vintage Port "approvals" are still in the work for many houses. So let's take a wait and see approach. I am getting very excited for my upcoming trip to get an early glimpse of what these young 2007s have in store for us!
My 2007 Vintage Port Forecast will be written and sent to subscribers in an upcoming issue of the FOR THE LOVE OF PORT e-newsletter.
Not a subscriber yet? It is time to take the plunge ... just click here: http://www.fortheloveofport.com/website/subscribe-to-ftlop
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Last Updated on Tuesday, 06 April 2010 07:30 |
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Historical Changes in Port |
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Written by Roy Hersh
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Saturday, 14 March 2009 02:16 |
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Originally a "thread" on the FTLOP Forum, led to this becoming a blog entry.
I was thinking about creating a different kind of FTLOP Forum thread. Not just one to get people to read, but one to get people to think … and then respond. This is the kind that I would hope will unearth a “lurker” or two to participate in, just because they felt they had something really important to add. I don’t care if it is controversial and goes against the tide of our collective Port wisdom.
I am hoping that this is the kind of thread that will have people really measuring their responses before posting them. In doing so, we can keep the discussion going for longer than the typical couple of days; the normal lifespan of a Port thread.
If I had to come up with one word to sum up the past four centuries of history of Port wine, it would be “Tradition.” I am sure there may be better choices out there, but, that is mine. Moreover, in looking at changes in the Port trade, (and this has nothing to do with the “trade” itself, in particular) it is my belief, that there have been more significant improvements in Port wine over the past three to four decades than the combined past three to four centuries!
That notion in itself can certainly be challenged, yet it is just one man’s opinion. Consider viticultural and associated improvements up in the Douro Valley. We’ve seen the use of new planting methods (Patamares and Vinha ao alto), the beginnings of mechanization, the move to lighter weight containers for transferring the grapes from the vineyard to the winery and with greater sanitization, a better understanding of clonal and site selection, bloc plantings by variety, rootstock experimentation, the introduction of the new style of patamares and vinha ao alto versus socalcos of the past and many, many more.
In the winemaking and storage of Port arena, we have also seen some pretty significant changes. From the move away from the use of lagares to autovinification and remontagem, then back to lagares and nowadays the utilization of robotic plunger tanks and mechanized treading machines, to the vastly improved quality of aguardente. Simple things like temperature controlled fermentation is certainly a monumental development, the understanding of wood grains and of course hygienic high speed bottling lines, and better control of corks … I could go on and on.
However we should not overlook the role that government or regulatory groups and associations have played in the big scheme of Port wine. More and or less regulation, changes in the Port categories and a plethora of others that we can delve into, all are important in the grand scheme of things. Now that you have a broader picture of what is to be considered, I will come back full circle to the question that is up for discussion in this thread:
You can only choose one dynamic to focus on. In your opinion, what is the single most important change or improvement in Port wine history?
Please take your time in considering your response. You can look back and choose something significant even from the 17th or 18th centuries, if you would like. Or, it can be a much more current dynamic, if you believe that answers the question. But your post most focus on just one.
There is just one last catch: FORTIFICATION – this is what I like to call “low hanging fruit” and therefore, the topic of adding grape neutral spirit to fermenting grape must, is taken off the table, per se, as this is way too obvious as a history changing moment for Port wine. The good news is that you can choose anything else you can come up with! Come visit the FTLOP Port Forum on this website and please feel free to add your two cents or at least, enjoy the read!
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Last Updated on Friday, 19 March 2010 09:49 |
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Turmoil in the marketplace |
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Written by Roy Hersh
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Friday, 06 March 2009 02:16 |
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Each and every day more horrendous financial news is foisted upon us.
It is easy to get depressed listening to the news these days. More and more jobs lost, banks, restaurants, car makers, insurance companies, hotels ... just about every single industry in America and across the globe is reeling.
Hopefully in time, the new administration will see the fruits of its labor begin to turn this Titanic away from the final iceberg that could sink it. But it sure seems to be coming closer.
This week, I spent time on the phone with a number of Port producers. I heard consistently that sales were declining in terms of their Ports and Vintage seems hardest hit of all. Fortunately, there seems to be a cautious optimism and some shippers were even upbeat with the impending declaration of the 2007 Vintage next month.
Samples will start heading to the IVDP next week and if approved, bottling can start as early as April 1st. This is very cool as earlier in this decade, the rule had not changed yet and bottling had to wait until July 1st. This relatively new change is great (a few years old actually) and allows the Port to get to the marketplace earlier than ever. One top source mentioned that the earlier the bottling is done after approval, the fresher the fruit seems to be down the road.
In discussions about pricing, few if any were willing to discuss it. A couple of companies did say they would probably not raise prices at all, from 2003, while one company did mention that they're doing their best to remain at 2003 levels and possibly may even drop slightly below that level. From where I sit, that would be great. They can always do an initial release at a low price to get people buying the 2007 and reinvigorating a stagnant VP marketplace. If the inherent quality is there, in time prices can be adjusted. But for now, It may just be what the doctor ordered. We'll see, and I know of many who are anxiously awaiting to learn about the declarations and the first tranch pricing.
So we may see some bargains yet. In the meantime, the LBV prices have come down slightly and we should start to see the "next vintage" for most of them. I am excited to see the marketplace jazzed again by having great young Ports come to fruition. Nothing like a generally declared Vintage to get people talking Port again! I realize I am jumping the gun, but from what I saw of those grapes ... we're in for a good one. However, the proof will be in the tasting of the Ports.
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Last Updated on Friday, 19 March 2010 09:49 |
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