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Fernandes Brothers More 40 Years of Age Verdelho |
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Written by Roy Hersh
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Saturday, 12 April 2008 |
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In the last couple of months I have depleted my stocks of this and will have to re-up when visiting Faja dos Padres again in a few weeks. I had a bottle of this over a two day period down in West Palm Beach with my brother while at The Great Wine Seminar. It is a most stunning Verdelho, quickly becoming my ultimate area of love in Madeira besides Terrantez. There is a seductive quality of this juice that lies between very dry and barely sweet and I love the juxtaposition. A dark amber-orange color with a green lip like a mussel from N. Zealand. Piercing nose and exhuberant lightness of flavors that range from dried apricots to quince and toasted cashews. Exotic and complex, with sublime waves of tongue prickling acidity. Mitch was as crazy about this Verdelho as me. One of the nights we drank it with a fine cigar of Hoyo de Monterey (a Churcill) that was just an amazing pairing. The next night all on its own. The weight is modest but the texture, ultimately decadent. The finish is other worldly and I need to find a way to have cases of this in my cellar. From a cuvee to celebrate the 96 birthday of Manuel Eugenio Fernandes, from a blend averaging 48 years old, this is just an insanely great Madeira.
96+ points (4-1-08) |