Best Bottle of Madeira in 1st Half of 2012

[Roy Hersh]

As for my Madeira of the year so far, it would be easy to go for the D'Oliveiras 1875 Malvasia, but I've had that enough times that it no longer would be "as distinguished" as say the minblowing 1802 Acciaioly Terrantez, had back in March. But because it was GREAT and likely the only time I'll ever taste this in my life ... a 252 year old beautiful Terrantez ... not only v. fine acidity which is no real surprise, but enough fruit left to create an ethereal, singular impression: 1760 Blandy's Terrantez ... gets the nod. Finally!

The score for this wine represents the overall quality of the wine as it was during the moment. However, that doesn't begin to include the experience itself:

1760 H.M. Borges Terrantez Vintage Madeira (Transcendental Terrantez Tasting) – Very
similar in appearance to the 1790 H.M. Borges that came before it. Likely this will be the oldest
bottle of wine that I will drink in my lifetime, so it’s all downhill from here. I’m grateful for this
singular experience and honored to taste a Madeira that is older than the country in which I
reside. Between sips I remember thinking, ‘it is crazy trying to describe the sensation of a 252
year old wine, and do it justice.’ What I enjoyed most about this ancient HMB is that not only
was it still very much alive, but the delicate and dry characteristics of this Terrantez, literally
transcend the centuries it has endured. According to some individuals in the room who’ve tasted
the 1760 before, it was a “very good showing” and we were all quite fortunate to experience
that. The potent profile of this elegant elixir was captured beautifully on the compelling bouquet
with an essence of apple cider, pure vanilla, baking spice, roasted chestnut, briny sea air,
roasted espresso, waves of wood smoke and a gentle wisp of VA. The mouth presence was
unctuous, lithe and captivating while softly caressing the palate in liquid velvet. It took several
minutes before I went from deeply inhaling this wine to actually venturing a first sip, as the nose
was chameleon-like. There was a bitter-dry aspect to the flavor profile meticulously interspersed
with a backdrop of bitter-sweetness which made it all the more beguiling. The first thing I noted
was the impeccable integration of the powerful, sharp acidity which precisely melded with
warming tastes of marzipan, creamy hazelnut butter, old leather, dried morel mushroom,
unsweetened cocoa powder, lemon-lime and nougat. Whereas it started off dry, the end game
was filled with salty dark caramel, butterscotch and an indescribable citrus and roasted
bitterness which played off the sweet finish and remained on my palate until sampling hors
d’oeuvres prior to dinner. An epic, ethereal Terrantez for the ages. 95 points 3/10/12

[John Trombley]

Don't forget the German Eiswein's, John. Those were the days. Actually, I have one 1989 left.

Enjoy, Roy! I wouldn't hold 1989 Eisweins for too much longer!