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2003 Quinta do Noval LBV Port

Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 12:22 am
by Ray Barnes
It was gratifying to revisit another thread from late February 2011 asking for fellow members' input on LBVs, with this one being recommended. After recent tryouts of the 2005 Cockburn, 2004 Taylor and 1999 Smith-Woodhouse LBVs, today was the day for Noval.

First of all there have been several excellent reviews on this wine, Roy's not the least of them, and I refer the members to the database. Rather than reiterating their remarks, with which in general I concur, let me just add here, that by comparison to the above 3 offerings, this LBV, coming from the 2003 declared vintage, is noticeably stronger both in aroma and flavour, in spite of having the lowest alcohol at 19.5%. The finish by my guess lasts 30 seconds. One might guess this power is attributable to higher levels of ripeness and tannin than normal. It had the balance and openness of bouquet that was very attractive in the Taylor, and had even more robustness than the Smith-Woodhouse, along with a good integration of alcohol and fruit right from the uncorking, as did Taylor. Where this wine stood out by comparison was a distinct spiciness in the bouquet, predominantly black pepper. I believe another member, like myself, noticed clove and cinnamon too. This was unexpected and very enjoyable. If this wine had the same degree of complexity in the flavour as in the bouquet, it could almost pass for a fine vintage port.

This was served with Waterbridge Belgian Extra Dark chocolate (72% cocoa). My guest this afternoon, who unlike myself has visited Portugal, thought this was a superb effort for this genre of wine. My wife summed up her impressions in one word: yummy. I'd say this is the best of the four I have tried. At $36 a bottle here in Surrey BC Canada, it isn't cheap, but worth it.

According to the estate's website, 2003 was the last LBV made with 30% of the fruit supplied from other growers. I hope to sample, if and when released, a 2007 LBV sourced entirely from Noval's own grapes.

It's been claimed this wine has at least 14 years ahead of it. There are not many wines for less than $40 here which have the backbone to go a quarter century - the only other that comes quickly to mind would be an older vintage fine German Spaetlese, and even there one needs a bit of luck. Overall, after 4 different offerings, LBVs are pretty darn good drinking when one has friends and family over and needs to offer something of very good quality, guilt-free.

Grade: A
Value: A