For The Love Of Port

This was pre-"Old Vines" or "Vinha Velha" designation, as it was just called "Reserva" then. This older vintage is rarely seen in the US and I was lucky to stumble across one earlier this year so I had to get it to try an early version of this Douro red.

I meet Sean's Portuguese girlfriend tonight for an impromtu dinner and since I've been dying to try this I brought it along. Still has great color and no signs of any fading or bricking, looks like a current vintage. That is where all similarities end. The nose reminds me of a young Bordeaux with rich red fruit, some leather, forest floor, and smattering of juniper. While the palate still has plenty of tannins and good acidity left, the fruit has matured into a very solid teenager. This still has plenty of life left and I wish I had more to put away to try again 5 and 10 years down the road. There is still some bright red fruit, yet the secondary notes of leather, wood, a touch of barnyard, and smoke make this a true pleasure to drink. I must say though, I can see the older style of wine making in this. It has a much more "old world" style to it, a bit more rustic than current vintages. But being a wine-necro that is what I love about this Douro red. If you love big fruity Aussie style red wines this probably isn't for you, but if you like old school Bordeaux or Cali Cab's then this will be right up your alley. 92 points
09/18/08

I finally found some scribbled down notes. Coincidentally I drank this around Oct 20 too. I can not come close to Andy's beautiful review, but here goes. On the nose stewed rhubarb, green onion, wet earth and some menthol heat. The palate has a great mouthfeel. Like Andy, I got a powerful blast of red fruits, then overlapping layers of smoke and tar..This is one of the best Reserva's I've had. I have bought this wine in quantity since 1997. 2000 and 2001 are my favourites.

Scott,
I really did enjoy this wine and sadly I'll probably never see it again offered for sale. Did you also notice the different wine making styles when compared to the newer ones? That was the one thing that really stood out to me.

Andy.
From 97- 01 I would say they are similar. Starting in 2002 they seem to be a bit richer, more oak. I don't know if they changed winemakers. I will ask Miguel when I see him in March if they changed winemaker or consciously changed styles. I still like the new style, And at least you can tell it is from Portugal. The other day I had a CLIO from Spain ?? vintage. I couldn't tell if it was Australian or Napa or ??? I think typicity counts for a lot.

They did change winemaker on the 97 harvest when David Baverstock was not needed anymore. He was working and still does for Esporao, a big producer in Alentajo, they are Roquette too there from cousin alliance if I don't mistake, so he came for a few years to help them start the winemaking there, I do believe his style is still present in the wines. Then on 2006 or 2007 Susana Esteban left because of family duty as she went to live near Lisboa. Manuel Lobo came in from that point and Dominic Moris who join a few years ago along with the Roquette are in charge of the winemaking there. They might have some help also from the Cazes winemaker as they run a project together in the Douro.

Thanks for the info Frederick. I thought that Susana was the assistant for Dona Maria. I could be mixed up though, because at the Vancouver winefest, the Crasto table and Dona Maria table are always side by side. I won't forget the tall bombshell winemaker though.

I briefly spoke to Miguel about this last month when I saw him and yes, the older Reserva's were a more rustic Douro style to them, like many Douro wines of that time period. As they've gained experience in the dry wine field, the quality has gone up and the resulting stylistic change as well. That is something that can be seen in many, if not most, of Douro wines in the past 6-8 years.

Dominic Morris, an Aussie winemaker has been consulting enologist for at least five years at Crasto and is a very good guy. He's headed up the winemaking team with Susana who was the winemaker and Miguel's brother Tomas who handles the Ports. Scott, you are thinking of Sandra Tavares da Silva-Borges. She was at Cristiano's table up at the Vancouver show, but you are right, when Miguel was away from his table, she would occasionally saunter over to the next table to help out and answer questions. I first met her AND Miguel in 1998 or 1999 at the Vancouver show. I remember going to dinner with them, Jack Segal (I know you know him ) Cristiano, Dirk Niepoort and also Bartholomew Broadbent. A great time for sure. I was the only one to bring a bottle of dessert wine, which blew them away. It was an old 1926 C. da Silva Vintage Port that was in phenomenal condition and none of them could believe it. I had several of these that I had purchased (along with 1905's too) because it was my father's birth year. Ahh, the memories.

I have my email typed out to you re: your upcoming trip, but I am checking with a friend who lives in that area, to get you a great restaurant recommendation or two.