For The Love Of Port

1980 Fonseca VP
tasted 2/27/2009 at a casual tasting in NYC

Nice ruby red color, somewhat affected by poor lighting and what appears to be a pink (or more correctly, dusty rose) colored tablecloth.

Dried, ground, mustard seed on the nose. With some age on it, so it isn't precisely pungent.
Possibly also tumeric or paprika. It's an earthy, slightly smoky essence, but in a more raw and primal manner and not a "campfire smoke" manner.

Tannins are faint and very smooth. They're almost non-existant, but I note concern that my palate has been affected by the Calvados I had at the bar. A vague milk chocolate-like texture and flavor. Also some soft, non-descript red fruits. With effort, some plums.

After time sitting in the glass, some cinnamon.

Grape stem in the finish, which is of good length but not particularly pleasant. It's not bad either... it's just not good in a noteworthy way.

Maybe the weakest Fonseca made in the past sixty years? The 1980 makes the 1975 and 1983 look like strong entries by Fonseca. If you own more of the '80 bottling, do your best to find a buyer.

Roy Hersh wrote:If you own more of the '80 bottling, do your best to find a buyer.

Or just drink it - it seems to be fully mature right now and in its prime. Though in this case its "prime" is significantly lower than normal for the house.