For The Love Of Port

To me, the differences between 20-, 30-, and 40-yr old tawnies are generally pretty subtle. They're definitely there, but the peak of the QPR curve is pretty solidly at the 20-yr old level. 30- and 40-yr olds are typically noticeably better Ports, but usually not enough better to make up for their dramatically higher cost.

Every once in a while, though, there is a disturbance in the Force.

Porto Kopke 40 Year Old Tawny Port

This is clearly a well-aged glass of Port, because there is only a trace of red left in the glass. It's not as dark as a 40+ year old Colheita, but it is definitely more amber and brown than red. It almost looks like one of the standard tawny aromas - a dried apricot. But it's not that orange, so think of a well aged dried apricot. It fades through a ruddy orange and very slightly greenish yellow as your gaze approaches the rim of the glass. The highlights are still red, though not as bright as they are in a younger Port.

The nose is full of classic tawny aromas - apricots, almond paste, vanilla, oak, honey - and some that go beyond such as lime and dry mustard. There is also a whiff of alcohol, but it is nicely integrated.

The mouth feel is smooth and rich. It's not thick like how a really old colheita can start to feel syrupy. The flavors start out tangy, then mellow quickly. The initial blast of citrus fades into marzipan, vanilla, a whiff of cotton candy, some oak, and brown sugar.

The citrus returns to lead off the finish, which lasts seemingly forever. It goes through multiple stages, and even after 5+ minutes there are still changes showing. It is never tart, sharp, or sour. Even the grape skin is more of a California white table grape flavor than the sharpness I'm used to finding in a Port's finish. The flavors flow in and out too quickly for me to identify them, which is both frustrating and wonderful at the same time.

This is a magnificent glass of Port. The differences between it and a top flight 20-yr old are typically subtle, but are so omnipresent that they magnify one another and wrench what would normally be considered a fairly expensive bottle right to the top of the QPR curve.

Everyone should have one of these bottles in their cellar for that perfect Tawny occasion.

I am glad you have more. I did not purchase any and after reading your note, realize I need to try this one ... actually sipping it over a few hours. What a great note. It is now ok to disclose that this came from the recent subscriber offering, now that it is off the table. I am sure others who bought this too are very glad to have a reference point and know that their incredible steal was well worthwhile. You can be the one to break the news of what you paid. Sounds like it was well worth the price.

It's funny that you should mention sipping it over a few hours... it's hard to NOT do that, but at least for me that involves more than one glass.

I've had the Kopke 20- and 30-yr olds, the '66 Colheita, and the Noval 40-yr old, so I had some idea of what this might be like. But even with high expectations it was fabulous. I'm really glad that I picked up a case of it during the subscriber offering.

And if any of you are questioning whether or not you should subscribe in order to get in on these offerings... "steal" doesn't really do it justice. This bottle would normally cost in the $140-$150 range, assuming you can even find it. Subscribers paid $90. The Kopke 30-yr old normally retails in the $100 range! One bottle of this saved enough to pay for a year's subscription all by itself! (And I bought more than just this case, so I'm probably set for 20 years on subscription value. )

[quote][Every once in a while, though, there is a disturbance in the Force./quote]
I like that quote. I may have to steal it sometime.

Hi Glenn,
Is it as good as Kopke's 60's & 70's Colheitas are? Better maybe?

Carlos Rodriguez wrote:Is it as good as Kopke's 60's & 70's Colheitas are? Better maybe?

I'd say it is roughly equivalent to the 1966 Kopke Colheita. It is difficult to compare them directly because they are different kinds of Port, but to me they give approximately the same pleasure.

I like it better than the 70s Colheitas, even the Rocha 1977 which is one of my favorites. The 40-yr old is smoother and more intense at the same time.

Glenn, thank's for the reply. I did find this post interesting, I may have to start againg to try more Tawny's with indication of age. I did stoped when I had disappointing experiences with some 20yr and 30yr.

Glenn nice note...I am glad I got a bunch of these and I can't wait to open one.

Three days later the bottle is still going strong (I'm rationing! I'm rationing!) and has picked up a little coffee flavor. It's still superb, but it's not going to last much longer. I'll probably finish the bottle tomorrow night... :lick:

Glenn,

How about a pristine 40 yo Kopke, bottle shot for PORTraits?

That would be cool and any of the others you scored?

3 days later...that's some serious will-power, dude!

It lasted 5 days... I just finished the last glass. When you consider that I normally only drink 1 glass a night and my pours are pretty consistently 3 oz, I really powered through this bottle. It was just so yummy that I couldn't keep my hands off it! :lick:

Roy, that's a great idea. I'll take some pictures and upload them once I get my camera working again. :hoppingmad: !#$*&!@ airlines. They somehow managed to dent the lense cover so that it won't open and close properly even though the camera was in its case buried deep within my suitcase!

Glenn,

After opening my bottle of Kopke 40 last night and reading your note today, I just had to resurrect this thread and tell you that you completely captured the essence of this port in your beautifully written description. What an outstanding tasting note!

Like you, I rarely drink more than one 3 oz. glass on any given night, but I will admit that I, too, had more than one glass of this gorgeous nectar last night. (I had two glasses, actually.) In contrast, a few nights ago, I opened a bottle of the Ferreira 20 (Duque), and, although it was sumptuous, I was able to hold to my one glass rule. I think that speaks volumes in respect to just how highly I regard the Kopke 40. On a scale of 100, I'd give this one 96 points, for not only does it have a bit more fruit than most 40s that I have sampled, but also the aftertaste is among the most complex and long-lasting of any port that I have ever sipped.

You know, because my palate is sensitive, I don't generally drink port on consecutive nights, but I will tonight! Kopke 40, here I come!

(P.S.--This bottle really surprised me, for, about a month ago, I was hugely disappointed by a bottle of Kopke 1976 colheita. To me, it wasn't even in the same ballpark as the bottle of Porto Rocha 1976 colheita that I enjoyed the month before. It is probably that the bottle was exposed to heat at some point. Why 1976, you ask? Well, that's the year of my birth. )

(P.S. #2--As to QPR, I gave $52 for the bottle of Ferreira 20 and, like you, $90 for this bottle of Kopke 40. I remember thinking last night that, as wonderful as the Ferreira 20 is, if given the opportunity, I would spend $90 for a bottle of this delectable Kopke 40 every time! It's too bad that such opportunities are rare, indeed. A big thanks to Roy of the wonderful newsletter deal! )

Glad you liked it Jonathan!

I have seen a little bit of bottle variation in the ones that I have opened so far from the case I purchased. Bottle #2 didn't show as well as this first bottle (and sadly, that's the bottle I shared with Roy), but Bottle #3 was right back up there. I still think this one was the best of the three, but not by too much. I'd agree with a 96 rating for this first bottle, possibly 97. Bottle #2 was more of a 93, and Bottle #3 was back up to something like 95.

None of which are bad ratings. :)

Glenn E. wrote:Glad you liked it Jonathan!

I have seen a little bit of bottle variation in the ones that I have opened so far from the case I purchased. Bottle #2 didn't show as well as this first bottle (and sadly, that's the bottle I shared with Roy), but Bottle #3 was right back up there. I still think this one was the best of the three, but not by too much. I'd agree with a 96 rating for this first bottle, possibly 97. Bottle #2 was more of a 93, and Bottle #3 was back up to something like 95.

None of which are bad ratings. :)

Perhaps this fine bottle that I have and your first bottle were poured at the same time from the same fount...

Also, I can't wait to know what Roy thinks when he has a fine example of this amazing port. You don't know how badly I would love to be at your upcoming Noval 40 vs. Kopke 40 competition! Now that is going to be a fun night! I look forward to reading about everyone's impressions.

Jonathan,

Glad you liked it, and as you found out it's a top notch 40 year old for sure. I hope you have access to more of these little gems and that they all show as brilliantly. Oh, and don't listen to Glenn and Roy, their palates obviously weren't very good that night :joker:

Andy Velebil wrote:Jonathan,

Glad you liked it, and as you found out it's a top notch 40 year old for sure. I hope you have access to more of these little gems and that they all show as brilliantly. Oh, and don't listen to Glenn and Roy, their palates obviously weren't very good that night :joker:

Andy,

Thanks, buddy! Welcome back to the states! I certainly did enjoy the beautiful coast of your state while you were gone. I hope to get to meet up with you next time, but, don't worry, I will understand if you are in the mecca of our Port passion once again. I mean, who wouldn't want to be there?

Jonathan, it was a shame to miss you again, our schedules just haven't meshed. One of these days the stars and moon will align with the Port gods and we will be able to finally meet and share some Port.

Andy Velebil wrote:Jonathan, it was a shame to miss you again, our schedules just haven't meshed. One of these days the stars and moon will align with the Port gods and we will be able to finally meet and share some Port.

That's okay, my friend. Perhaps we can hang out in the Douro one day, instead.