Portuguese wines range from ..... [Wine with Kattie Rosser]

[Mario Ferreira]

URL: http://www.sundayherald.com/life/food/d ... .1031183.0.
portuguese_wines_range_from_cheerful_and_inexpensive_to_complex_and_pricey_but_are_always_a_bit_quirky_and_a_little_bit_different.php

`Portuguese wines range from cheerful and inexpensive to complex and pricey, but are always a bit quirky and a little bit different´

Wine with Kattie Rosser - http://www.sundayherald.com/

While I turn my attention to the wines of Portugal in order to survive the cold weather, a friend of mine has just returned from a stay there sporting a divine caramel-coloured suntan, which is uncannily similar to the colour of tawny port. Jealous - moi?

This is a spectacular country to visit. Home to some of the steepest vineyards in the world, it has a fascinating viticultural history . It has really made its name through fortified wines - port - but there are many sophisticated non-fortified whites and reds making their way to Scottish shelves. These can range from cheerful and inexpensive to serious, complex and pricey, but one thing is certain, Portuguese wines are always a little bit quirky and a little bit different.

As Old World wines evolve alongside local cuisine, it´s no surprise the white wines of Portugal make the perfect accompaniment to seafood and crustaceans. Here is a selection of fish-friendly white wines.

Joao Pirez Branco 2004 (£9.99, Peckhams) is a crisp, green-tinted wine with aromas of apple and lime and excellent balance. Casal Garcia Vinho Verde 2005 (£5.99, Peckhams) is refreshing and not too dry or tart. Ripe, citrussy fruit leads the way on the lively palate.

Redoma Douro Branco 2004 (£13.99, Peckhams and Luvians) is very unusual and appealing on the nose with some intriguing complexity. Gunsmoke aromas mingle with lush exotic fruit, toast and vegetal elements. The palate is dry and dense with uplifting acidity, great balance and a long-lasting finish.

You could also try these with Mediterranean-style chicken or turkey dishes. The Portuguese are also big on red meat, particularly grilled steak, variations on pork, stews and succulent sausages, all of which make a great match to their hearty, non-fortified wines.

Quinta de Coa 2003 (£7.99, Peckhams) is an absolute steal for the price. Extremely well- balanced with complex aromas of ripe berries, spice, elegant oak and some meaty undertones. Carm Tinto Douro 2003 (£8.99, Peckhams) is another great value red. All smoky, spicy berry fruits on the nose leading to a generous, fruit-laden lingering palate. Duas Quintas Duoro 2003 (£8.49, Peckhams and Henderson Wines) follows a similarly fruity and spicy route. This is a well-made red that certainly warms the cockles.

Like the Portuguese themselves, the Scots tend to save port drinking for special occasions and we can´t get enough of it at Christmas. While the most serious ports should most certainly be savoured, there are plenty of affordable and accessible versions which are not too taxing and make a perfect pre- or post-dinner tipple any time of the year. Try a chilled white port, such as the dry Niepoort White Port (£9.99, Peckhams) which offers a nutty bouquet of butterscotch and honey, packing quite a punch on the palate.

The Niepoort Ruby (£7.99, Peckhams) is a rounded, easygoing port which ticks all the right boxes and is a great partner to an after-dinner cheese-munching session. Niepoort Senior Tawny (£12.99, Peckhams and Luvians) is a bit more serious, showing delicious dried fruit flavours along with Christmas spices. Quinta de la Rosa LBV 1998 (£14.49, Peckhams) is extremely well made, with layer upon layer of crushed berries and spice. Graham´s The Tawny (£15.99, Luvians) is on average about eight years old and a stunning shiny caramel colour. The attractive nose is smoky and slightly burned while the palate is sweet, intense and has a delicious caramel finish.

Quinta do Noval Unfiltered LBV Port 2000 (£10.99) is wonderful, with fantastic spicy black fruit, cherry notes and a blockbusting finish.

19 November 2006