NV Kopke 30 Year Old White Port

[Glenn E.]

These are only imported into the US in 375ml bottles, so that's what this one was. Aged white Ports also seem to be slightly more expensive than Tawnies of a similar age, but they're worth it to me for some occasional variety.

Kopke 30-yr old White Port
bottled 2013

Color: Light tawny, mostly tan and orange. Faint hint of green in the yellow near the rim.

Nose: Tangy lemon, oatmeal, paraffin, and spicy alcohol. The nose is rich, but has a sharp edge to it from the loads of citrus. There might also be a hint of turpentine or varnish, but I don't think it's VA - it's just an aspect of the nose on this Port.

Palate: Medium to medium full body, but only average to medium sweet. It is clearly less sweet than the S. Leonardo 30-yr old that I have for contrast. Oddly, it has a much drier feel than its sugar level would indicate, probably due to the impressive acidity. Sweet lemon, tart overripe Satsuma orange, a hint of lime. Great acidity, but it's almost (almost!) out of balance with the sugar. I normally expect tropical fruit notes from white Ports, but this doesn't seem to have any. Possibly some very faint pineapple?

Finish: Fairly dry. Good warmth. Green apple tail with some apple skin mixed in. Good length, but nothing like the S. Leonardo 30-yr old.

Score: 93 points. Most people recommend drinking White Port chilled, but I disagree for these aged versions. For a low-end white or white reserve, sure, but a 30- or 40-yr old deserves to be allowed to express itself at the same temperature that you would use for serving a Tawny. The nose and palate really open up at or just below room temperature. Kopke's 30-yr old White is excellent bordering on outstanding.