2017 Vintage Port Tasting Recap with Notes and other information

[Andy Velebil]

2017 VINTAGE PORT TASTING
San Francisco, California
May 09, 2019



A lot of rumors have been circulating about how good the 2017 Vintage Ports are. So I went to see for myself if the hype was true. Thankfully it was only a short flight up to San Francisco to join the Houses of The Fladgate Partnership, Quinta do Noval, Quinta da Romaneira, and the Symington Family Estates in sampling their wares. Leading the tasting was Charles Symington, Dominic Symington, Rupert Symington, Adrian Bridge, David Guimaraens and Carlos Agrellos. Most people will recognize most of the names listed. However, some may not be familiar with Carlos. Carlos is the Technical Director of Quinta do Noval and Romaneira. He took over from his uncle, Antonio, who retired at the end of 2017.

About The Year
A cold very dry winter led into a very dry year overall. Only about 300mm of rain fell during the year, far below the average. Then a long hot spring and summer. June recorded the hottest temperature since 1980. As a result everything started early. To give you an idea, at Quinta do Noval bud burst started on March 14th. Flowering May 8th, Verasion June 19th (July 11th for Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cao) and picking grapes started on August 17th for the white grapes. Generally speaking everything was about 2-3 weeks ahead of normal and necessitated recalling people from their holidays during August to start the harvest.

Due to the exceptionally dry year the older vines, with their well established roots, did much better. While there was some raisining of grapes, triage of the grapes coming in made a big difference. Getting rid of the shriveled grapes and keeping the ripe fresh ones have turned out some fantastically rich yet fresh Ports.

Overall Impression
A lot of people have talked about how Vintage Port has been “Too approachable” in recent vintages and have expressed concerns on how they may age in the long term. Those people can now put those thoughts to rest. The term “Old School” aptly describes how these Ports showed. In general, these young Vintage Ports were just massive tannic and acidic fruit bombs. Yet at the same time still retained freshness. Die hard Port lovers will enjoy the return to massive mouth drying Ports. As you will see in my notes the scoring range for these is the closest I’ve ever encountered with young Vintage Ports. I think that speaks volumes for how good of a year it really was. I think 1970 may be a good comparison in that one would have to work hard not to make a good Port.


I’ve heard some asking how it compares to 2016. I will simply say they are as different as night and day. These are bigger, bolder, more depth and complexity and longer finishes. 2017 has been compared to the 1945 vintage. I wasn’t around then to taste them young, but I have no doubt these will live up to that comparison in the long run.

Some comments on the tasting and my notes
This was a sit down tutored tasting with a self-guided walk around after so one could retry the Ports if so desired. We spent about 5 minutes with each Port so these are very much a snap shot tasting. None the less, as you’ll read in my notes that didn’t stop them from firing on all cylinders. I’ve included some technical details where readily available. All Ports are the final blends, though bottling will take place in the coming months. Forgive any typos!

For more technical info please visit https://vintageportsite.com/ for Symington Family Estates. https://fladgatepartnership.com for the Fladgate Partnership and http://www.quintadaromaneira.pt for Romaneira. Noval does not, as of yet, have info listed I could find.


THE NOTES:

2017 Cockburn’s Vintage Port
Very dark glass staining color. A nose full of ripe plums and esteva. Plenty of tannins with a good streak of acidity, cracked pepper, chocolate, plums and a very long finish. This appeared to be a touch drier profile than usual. This is made from grapes from two Quinta’s, Vale Coelho and Canais. 2,500 cases.
92-94(+) Points

2017 Croft Vintage Port
Tad lighter in color than the Cockburn’s. Lots of passion fruit on the nose, which has become this VP’s trade mark. The palate also had passion fruit with bold fruit under lying it. Huge tannins and excellent acidity. An amazingly long finish full of dusty tannins and good structure. The best Croft since the 2003. Just a wonderful Port that has many decades ahead of it. 3,900 cases.
95-97 Points

2017 Croft Quinta da Roeda Serikos Vintage Port
From three old-vine plots (Benedita, Ferradura, and Galeria) planted between 1889 and 1900. This had a more purple color to it than the regular Croft. There was less passion fruit on the nose than the regular Croft. While the palate was similar to the Croft this had far more tannins and a slightly darker fruit and raisin profile. Enticing spices and pepper mixed in with some chalkiness continued to the very long lingering finish. A remarkable first vintage indeed. 200 cases.
95-97 Points


2017 Dow’s Vintage Port
One of the darkest of the bunch. The nose had sweet and dense black fruit and esteva. In the mouth there was a touch of youthful spirit, lovely spices, menthol and mocha. A very long dusty finish with tobacco leaf rounded out a wonderful Port. As usual this is a slightly drier profile and that showed throughout. 5,250 cases.
95-97 Points

2017 Fonseca Vintage Port
From three Quinta’s, Cruzeiro, Santo Antonio and its backbone Panascal. Lots of red stone fruit on the nose. While the palate had bold tannins, huge fresh dark fruit, plenty of acidity and a granite-like chalkiness. An incredibly long and dry finish, yet fresh at the same time. Lots of depth and complexity in this youngster. This, along with many in this tasting, is a step up from previous years. 8,100 cases.
96-98 Points

2017 Graham’s Vintage Port
Picking started on 28 August and finished on the 15th of September, the latter is when picking normally starts. A exceptionally dark color. Loads of aromatic violets on the nose. A much sweeter profile was immediately noticeable followed by cracked pepper, tobacco leaf, chocolate, spices and tannins. A long lush and voluptuous finish chocked full of eucalyptus and tannins. The best Graham’s VP in many years and one that is nipping at the heels of The Stone Terraces. This was outstanding. 5,250 cases.
97-99 Points


2017 Graham’s The Stone Terraces Vintage Port
The fourth release. This represents about 4% of total production from Quinta dos Malvedos. Yields are roughly 1,100 kilos per hectare, which is a tiny amount. Squid ink describes the dark color of this. It has some passion fruit up front in the mouth, though much less than the Croft. That was mixed in with dark stone fruits, tons of acidity and tannins, massive grip and complexity. This never seemed to end and actually continued to expand on the palate even after drinking it. The complex structure of this was exceptional. The Malvedos estate is predominantly south-facing, but the stone terraces are cooler east and northeast-facing plots. 600 cases.
98-100 Points


2017 Krohn Vintage Port
There was something on the nose I couldn’t quite place, perhaps peach mixed with plums. Regardless, it was very enticing aromas. Lots of plums, menthol, cassis and a moderate amount of tannins. A solidly long finish was an extension of the palate. Perhaps the best Krohn’s VP I’ve had in a long time. 1,400 cases
93-95 Points



2017 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port
A dark inky purple with a nose chalked full of black fruit and roses. The palate also had deep black fruit, pepper, eucalyptus, tons of tannins and searing acidity. Tons of complexity and layers in this magnificent Port. It becomes slightly sweeter until the dusty tannins take over on the very long finish. Perhaps the best young Noval since the 2003. 3,500 cases.
96-98 Points

2017 Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port
Slightly darker in color compared to the regular Noval with a similar nose. Cracked pepper dominates on the tip of the tongue with a wave of tannins coming on its heels. Slightly drier than the regular bottling yet still full of fresh layers of fruit. That fruit kicks into high gear on the incredibly long finish, which also brings forth tobacco and tea leafs and that wall of tannins and searing acidity. Another spectacular vintage of Nacional. 200 cases.
97-99 Points

2017 Quinta da Romaneira Vintage Port
A very fragrant nose of esteva, plums and perfume. That esteva also pops up in the mouth along with flowers, plums, licorice, black fruit and elegant yet bold tannins. The acidity gives this lift and freshness as it transitions into the long finish. This Port has continued to increase in quality with each passing vintage since Christian Seely took over the property. 1,100 cases.
94-96 Points

2017 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port
A dark inky color with a bold black stone fruit nose. Noticeably sweeter in the mouth until the massive dry tannins kicked in. Plenty of layers of chocolate, menthol, violets and a touch of youthful spirit. The lush lingering finish has tons of dusty dry tannins and acidity mixed in with that fruit. A step up from last years version. The company’s two Pinhão Valley vineyards, Quinta de Terra Feita and Quinta do Junco, also contribute to this Port. 11,500 cases.
96-98(+?) Points

2017 Taylor Fladgate Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port
Slightly darker in color than the regular bottle. A touch sweeter initially, then lots of violets, casis, eucalyptus, pepper, searing acidity and big bold tannins. The finish brings even more tannins as that sweetness subsides and the fresh fruit takes over. A very intense long finish caps off what is the best vintage of this in its history. Kudos to Taylor’s for a job well done! Vinha Velha, meaning ‘old vineyard’, is made up of five individual plots containing many vines over a century old. 467 cases
98-100 Points


2017 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port
Dark inky color. Sweet up front then waves of black fruit take over. Following the fruit allspice, tannins and spearmint. Jammy and tannic long finish wraps up a lovely Port. The first tasting of this the Port was quite closed. The second bottle I tried was much better but it took some effort to get it to come out. Cranky young VP is a good sign for the future! 1,200 cases.
94-96 Points

2017 Capela da Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port
The fourth bottling of this Port. Loads of black plums, violets and flowers on the nose. This shows a touch drier than the regular bottling with layers of tobacco, lots of spices, cassis, dusty tannins, cracked white pepper, black fruit and excellent acidity. Like most in this tasting the finish just lingers for minutes. A fantastic bottling of this rare Port. From incredibly low-yielding 90-year-old vines from the Vinha da Capela vineyard on the Estate. 472 cases.
97-98+ Points

2017 Warre’s Vintage Port
This was one of the darkest of the line up in color. A very fragrant nose full of fresh dark fruit, esteva, tea and fresh flowers. A touch sweeter in style with some youthful spirit still poking through that will dissipate shortly. Eucalyptus and spearmint, dusty dry tannins, bold rich yet fresh fruit, loads of acidity, and tea. This picks up the pace on the long explosive finish as the fruit pops out even more. There is a lot going on in this one. I don’t get why more people don’t give this Port more attention. Magnificent sums it up. From the relatively high 29 hectare vineyard at Quinta da Cavadinha in the Pinhão Valley, the 22 hectare vineyard at Quinta do Retiro in the Rio Torto Valley, and the 25 hectare Quinta da Telhada, in the upper reaches of the Douro Superior.
3,600 cases.
96-98 Points

[Jasper A.]

Great story to read Andy!
I will start tasting the samples soon.

[Andy Velebil]

Great story to read Andy!
I will start tasting the samples soon.

I look forward to reading what you think of them.

[John M.]

2017 Croft Quinta da Roeda Serikos Vintage Port...is this akin to another Stone Terraces? Seems like all the major houses want a signature special brand.

[Andy Velebil]

2017 Croft Quinta da Roeda Serikos Vintage Port...is this akin to another Stone Terraces? Seems like all the major houses want a signature special brand.

Yes. This comes from very old vine plots on Roeda. These vines were Planted to replace phylloxera damaged vines.

[Eric Ifune]

Nice to see they're keeping the Krohn brand for VP.

[Glenn E.]

Graham's, Nacional, VVV, GST. Gotcha.

[makes mental note]

[Eric Menchen]

Noval, Vesuvio, Warres, Fonseca, Taylor, and maybe Dow (if the price doesn't get driven up by a magazine top wines list) or Croft. That's my buying list. I'll bring some of those to the tasting Glenn brings the Graham's to, and I've omitted the special cuvées unless I see them at a good price (unlikely).

Thanks Andy for the nice write-up. You reminded me of another reason I might buy some of this vintage--I was there during the end of the harvest, missing the prime part because it came so early.

[David Spriggs]

Thanks for the write up. Sorry I couldn't make it. Looks like an AWESOME vintage!!!

[Andy Velebil]

Nice to see they're keeping the Krohn brand for VP.

Adrian mentioned during the tasting there wasn’t a Vintage of it last year due to importer issues. It’s now under Kobrand, like the rest of TFP Ports, so back.

[Rune EG]

This was a very useful message Andy.
All written in the same concept and possible to get a picture of the variations and your scores.
I look forward to studying it more in detail.

[Jasper A.]

I tasted the Fonseca 2017 vintage port yesterday and today, here it goes:
Purple black port, with a purrle rim
Fresh herbs, rosehip and red fruit on the nose.
Port fills the mouth with a warm exploision.
Tar, black pepper, dark chocolate, ripe plum a hint of chery is what I taste.
Good grip, nice acidity and heavy round tannins

Keeper, amazing aging potential.
Classic in the making, this port will be remembered
98/100

[David Spriggs]

Wow! Thanks for the note!

[Andy Velebil]

Jasper,
Thanks for your note on the Fonseca and glad you could try such an amazing you VP. Have you been able to try any others yet?

[Jasper A.]

Jasper,
Thanks for your note on the Fonseca and glad you could try such an amazing you VP. Have you been able to try any others yet?

Niepoort is on its way, hope to taste it soon. The Symington launch in the NL is in a few weeks. Have to wait for that.

[Andy Velebil]

Jasper,
Thanks for your note on the Fonseca and glad you could try such an amazing you VP. Have you been able to try any others yet?

Niepoort is on its way, hope to taste it soon. The Symington launch in the NL is in a few weeks. Have to wait for that.

Please do post your thoughts/notes on them when you taste them. I look forward to reading what you thought of them.

[Jasper A.]

I tasted the Niepoort today, here it goes:

Nice purple colour, not as dark as the Fonseca. Flower bouquet with a hint of raspberries.
Tasted milk chocolate, plumbs and minirals from the soil. Powerful but round tannins and light acidity. Great finish with amazing length.
The Fonseca is a powerhouse, the Niepoort is more elegant. Reminded me of the Niepoort 2000
I rated it 96/100

[Shawn Denkler]

Wine Searcher has some comments on 2017 being a back-to-back vintage with vintage notes:

https://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2019/05 ... ntage-year


Another article from deborahparkerwong with more tasting notes:

https://deborahparkerwong.com/2019/05/1 ... CN1UKZWWI0

[Mike J. W.]

Andy,

Very nice notes. Thank you for taking the time to write them up. One question. Do you have a natural predisposition to any one of the port brands and does that creep into your scoring at all? Okay, that's two questions in one, but you get my point.

[Andy Velebil]

Andy,

Very nice notes. Thank you for taking the time to write them up. One question. Do you have a natural predisposition to any one of the port brands and does that creep into your scoring at all? Okay, that's two questions in one, but you get my point.

Mike,

Great question, thanks for asking. I don't have any one producer that I love more than others. I don't care who makes it, so long as it's good. However, I do have producers that I prefer in certain vintages. I think everyone does, actually. Hah!

That said, I do think there are producers that don't get the love they deserve even when they make a great Port. Often these are the more elegant styled VP's, such as Warre's, Ramos Pinto, Ferreira, etc. I'll use the 2016 and 2017 Warre's VP as a great example of this. Warre's hit a Grand Slam in both vintages yet there is hardly any talk in the mainstream wine publications of this VP. This drives me nuts that many of these mainstream publications only focus on the "known names", which I am sure you can figure out who those are, and leave out these other ones even when they nail it.

As for scoring. No, it doesn't. There aren't many people that can set aside label bias and score it as it is. As I mentioned earlier, I don't care who makes it. If it's good it's good, if it's not it's not. Every producer has great years and not so great years (see my comments here on related to 1980 Fonseca VP if you want a good example). If you look back at my 2016 VP review here on the forum you'll see I scored them as I felt they showed at the time. You'll see some well known VP's that weren't at the top of my list. However, when tasting young VP I do think knowing the producer is important for how that Port may develop and last over time. Simply as there is a track record of tasting that producer throughout it's aging range and seeing how that Port typically matures over decades. When I tasted Croft Serikos this year I quite liked it. But as it's the first vintage I can't say with certainty how I feel it will age as there is zero track record for it. So then I have to factor in things which include the Quinta's track record, producer's track record with that property, wine maker, etc. to make my assessment.

I hope that helps and if I need to clarity or expand please let me know and ask away.