TN: 2004 Quinta do Crasto Old Vines Reserva

[David Spriggs]

One hour decant. Medium+ ruby color. Chocolate nose. Definitely a classic Douro mineral and sour cherry nose. Some obvious oak. The oak isn't offensive, but it's there. Big bodied entry. Again tasting of cranberries, cherries, and dark chocolate. Still a bit grippy. I had heard that this wine was peaking and possibly fading. This bottle doesn't show that at all. A very strong showing for a 15 year old Douro. Second day. Showing much more maturity. Medium length finish. The minerality is gone and it's less interesting because of that. So I would think that this wine is getting close to peak or at peak. No reason to drink up for well stored bottles, but there is no reason to wait. Delicious! 93 points

[Andy Velebil]

At this age the oak should have already started to be a distant background component and not in-your-face. So here's my question. At almost 15 years old and the quite noticeable oak that isn't going anywhere, what do you think will happen when the fruit starts to fade even more but the oak remains?

My stance on these mid-tier wines, and to clarify from earlier comments, is during this era of massive oak treatments they drink well young. At some point when their fruit starts to fade what is left is protruding oak. In that regard, I think these are best to consume younger. As I've said, now is about the right time to slowly drink them up. Waiting for these to reach an even riper old age is flirting with disaster. That said, I think the current ones are much better balanced now that the oak treatment has been cut back. The 2015 Old Vine Reserva is a fantastic wine that will live longer than many from this earlier 2000's era simply as they are better balanced from the beginning. The 1990 era Reserva's, while totally mature, still drink nicely as they were and still are balanced wines.

As a side, it's easy to Monday morning quarterback decisions made a long time ago. The popular "Parkerization" style then is what it is. Douro wines were just getting onto the map and, like the vast majority of wineries, people made them in a certain style to gain points. Thus selling more wines as the end result, can't blame them at all. It was the right decision at the time, IMO. Thankfully, many producers and consumers have realized that style generally isn't the best road to take and have now found a much happier medium.

[David Spriggs]

At this age the oak should have already started to be a distant background component and not in-your-face. So here's my question. At almost 15 years old and the quite noticeable oak that isn't going anywhere, what do you think will happen when the fruit starts to fade even more but the oak remains?

Honestly, I'm not worried about the oak. It's actually less than many California wines and this wine has many other interesting complexities in it to complement the oak. If this wine was monolithic, then yes, I would have a problem. But I don't see that. The oak is just another component.

My stance on these mid-tier wines, and to clarify from earlier comments, is during this era of massive oak treatments they drink well young. At some point when their fruit starts to fade what is left is protruding oak. In that regard, I think these are best to consume younger.

Actually, I think it's drinking better now than in the past.

That said, I think the current ones are much better balanced now that the oak treatment has been cut back. The 2015 Old Vine Reserva is a fantastic wine that will live longer than many from this earlier 2000's era simply as they are better balanced from the beginning.

Agreed! The 2015 is a ROCK STAR! My conclusion is that this wine has done better than I expected. I expected it to be a hot, oaky mess -- but it was absolutely not that at all.

[Claus P]

At this age the oak should have already started to be a distant background component and not in-your-face. So here's my question. At almost 15 years old and the quite noticeable oak that isn't going anywhere, what do you think will happen when the fruit starts to fade even more but the oak remains?

My stance on these mid-tier wines, and to clarify from earlier comments, is during this era of massive oak treatments they drink well young. At some point when their fruit starts to fade what is left is protruding oak. In that regard, I think these are best to consume younger. As I've said, now is about the right time to slowly drink them up. Waiting for these to reach an even riper old age is flirting with disaster. That said, I think the current ones are much better balanced now that the oak treatment has been cut back. The 2015 Old Vine Reserva is a fantastic wine that will live longer than many from this earlier 2000's era simply as they are better balanced from the beginning. The 1990 era Reserva's, while totally mature, still drink nicely as they were and still are balanced wines.

As a side, it's easy to Monday morning quarterback decisions made a long time ago. The popular "Parkerization" style then is what it is. Douro wines were just getting onto the map and, like the vast majority of wineries, people made them in a certain style to gain points. Thus selling more wines as the end result, can't blame them at all. It was the right decision at the time, IMO. Thankfully, many producers and consumers have realized that style generally isn't the best road to take and have now found a much happier medium.

Hi Andy
Are you sure about this oak treatment, when I look at the spec sheets on the Crasto homepage, it is the same today as it was back in 04, about 18 months.

[Andy Velebil]

At this age the oak should have already started to be a distant background component and not in-your-face. So here's my question. At almost 15 years old and the quite noticeable oak that isn't going anywhere, what do you think will happen when the fruit starts to fade even more but the oak remains?

My stance on these mid-tier wines, and to clarify from earlier comments, is during this era of massive oak treatments they drink well young. At some point when their fruit starts to fade what is left is protruding oak. In that regard, I think these are best to consume younger. As I've said, now is about the right time to slowly drink them up. Waiting for these to reach an even riper old age is flirting with disaster. That said, I think the current ones are much better balanced now that the oak treatment has been cut back. The 2015 Old Vine Reserva is a fantastic wine that will live longer than many from this earlier 2000's era simply as they are better balanced from the beginning. The 1990 era Reserva's, while totally mature, still drink nicely as they were and still are balanced wines.

As a side, it's easy to Monday morning quarterback decisions made a long time ago. The popular "Parkerization" style then is what it is. Douro wines were just getting onto the map and, like the vast majority of wineries, people made them in a certain style to gain points. Thus selling more wines as the end result, can't blame them at all. It was the right decision at the time, IMO. Thankfully, many producers and consumers have realized that style generally isn't the best road to take and have now found a much happier medium.

Hi Andy
Are you sure about this oak treatment, when I look at the spec sheets on the Crasto homepage, it is the same today as it was back in 04, about 18 months.

Length of time can be irrelevant. I would suspect they’re using less new oak and more used barrels.

[Roy Hersh]

Andy is correct, they are using a mix of new and used oak nowadays, however the new does outweigh the neutral considerably.

As David mentioned, this is a gorgeous wine in 750. While I loved a recent 375, there was no question it was far more advanced than bottles I've had from 750 within the past year. I gave it a higher score because it was more complex and mature notes had already kicked in, far more so than this format. I also agree with David that in 750 ml bottles, this has a ways to go and will be mature in another six or more years, when it has reached two decades of age. No way that the fruit will fade anytime soon.

We can agree to disagree about how long these age, but we'll all get a chance to really know. I think the 2003/2004/2005 are all very good examples of this OVR and I'd bet that all three make their 21st birthday and be gorgeous at the time of their majority.

[Roy Hersh]

I liked your note and commented on it David. Don't forget mine was in 375 ml, (yeah, have often do you ever see me mention that format for a red Douro wine?), so I agree with everything you wrote.

[David Spriggs]

Don't forget mine was in 375 ml, (yeah, have often do you ever see me mention that format for a red Douro wine?)

375ml??? Never!